Fuel tank closing pate salvageable?

[Stainless]

As part of my winter projects, I removed the fuel tank closing plate to asses the rust situation. The bottom side of it didn't look bad at all with just some of the epoxy peeling at some of the edges. The other side of the plate was just awful. Here are some photos:
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w57/jlattin21/DSCN0366.jpg

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w57/jlattin21/DSCN0367.jpg

I chipped off a bunch of the bubbling epoxy and the metal still seems very thick and strong. As long as the rust is limited to the surface, should I be able to clean this up with a wire wheel and POR 15 this thing? I ask just because this seems like an awfully large surface area to work with. Have you guys salvaged yours if it hasn't rusted through?

[Kenny_Z]

I've salvaged panels on older cars that looked much worse than that. I wouldn't wire wheel before Por15ing it. Just use some stuffing pads to break the loose rust off. Por15 bonds best to rust. I'd remove the scale, Por15 just the rusted areas, not the bare metal, and then put a quality truck bedcoating on it.

[vwdmc16]

id definitively remove the rust. An angle grinder with a flapwheel ginder disc would clean it up well, then POR15

[Nicholas R]

That thing looks fine. Long as there are no holes you can definitely clean it up. Even if there were, since its just a flat plate, you could very easily cut out a bad section and weld a new section in with ease.

[WelmoedJ]

We (over here in The Netherlands) have the plate's epoxy and rust burned of by a company that is specializes in that kind of work (frames, trailing arms etc).

Ext job, the parts are taken to a company that zinc-plates (galvanization) the parts.
This treatment ensures long-time absence of rust.

From then on it's what you want: having the part as is, powder coated, or painted yourself.

[Ron]

I'd find a local shop to sand blast it...

[stevedmc]

I had some rust on mine as well. My dad just put a grinder to it and then put a few coats of rustoleum on it. Problem solved.

[Stainless]

Sounds great. Thanks for the help guys. I'll get this thing cleaned up before the driving season.

[John U]

Is your brake master leaking?

[Stainless]

It could have been once upon a time. I replaced it back in June, so if it was leaking, it sure isn't now.

[dmcjohn]

Like others said, I'd get it sandblasted then paint it with POR-15 or similar, and it'll be fine.

But, given the state of the fuel tank plate, I would also drop the fuel tank out to inspect the frame in that area. If you did have a previous master cylinder leak, you'll see some rust on the side of the frame beside the fuel tank - might as well take the opportunity to clean that up now too before it gets worse and requires the frame to be removed to fix.

Regards,
John

[David T]

If you have any fuel in the tank I would remove it. With the plate removed and a lot of weight (fuel) in the tank, the tank may fall out of the car. Certainly don't even think of driving the car without the plate! As mentioned, with the amount of rust on the plate you should consider examining the frame thoroughly. I would grind or sandblast as much of the rust off as possible before using any coatings.
David Teitelbaum

[lazabby]

Mine was rusted through. I ended up having SS ones made and that's what I have on my car now.

[Stainless]

I had some time last night to start working on the closing plate. I had a 6" wire wheel that I used to do the job. It was slow going, but this is what the top side of the plate now looks like:
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w57/jlattin21/DSCN0370.jpg

There is a lot of pitting on the top side, but nothing rusted through. The metal still feels strong in those areas. I have read a few threads on repairing frame rust and would like to know if I need to prep the metal before applying POR15. In my mind, phosphoric acid would be nice to use to clean it up nicely, but POR15 says that it may prevent it from adhering to the metal. For you that have done this, what do you recommend?

I also discovered that a previous owner obviously drilled new holes through screws that had broken off. Hopefully you can see it in the picture below:
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w57/jlattin21/DSCN0372.jpg

I may have to do something similar since a couple of bolts snapped off when trying to remove them. Fun, fun.

[David T]

I do not think you have to do any prep to use POR-15 but it can't hurt to remove as much rust as you can and wipe with acid, it can only make it better. One way to deal with the nuts would be to just cut the messed up ones off and weld new ones back on. If you want a smooth looking job with no pits, put the POR-15 on thick and sand it smooth before covering with grey paint.
David Teitelbaum

[Stainless]

Plate complete. It looks as good as new. I also got all new bolts and washers to complement the repaired plate/frame.

Here is the top side of the plate after a couple of coats of POR-15:
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w57/jlattin21/DSCN0377.jpg

A close-up reveals what remains of the pitting:
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w57/jlattin21/DSCN0379.jpg

Here it is after I was almost done putting in the bolts:
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w57/jlattin21/DSCN0381.jpg

It's kind of silly to make it look perfect since I'm the only one that will ever see the bottom side of the car, but it turned out better than I had imagined it would.

[sean]

Plate complete. It looks as good as new.

Great job, looks sharp!