Many questions about galvanization

[ebrakespin]

I have searched a lot here and cant find any info on this anymore.

I am doing a frame off restoration and want to keep whatever I can from rusting when it all goes back together. So I talked to a galvanizer here in Columbia, SC and he said he will do certain parts, but they have to be completely prepped before dipping them. Also, I asked about plating the frame and he said they normally don't dip frames because of complications when draining the zinc, but since the Delorean frame is so different they will take a look at it.

here are my questions about this:
-what parts should I get plated?

-if you have got your frame plated, how did you strip off all the epoxy? Did you modify the frame for drainage?

Any info is appreciated! :notworthy:

[David T]

You have to remove the epoxy and any rust. You also have to do any repairs and make some drain holes. Removing the epoxy is the hard part. Some possibilities include sandblasting or burning. Not only must you drain as much molten zinc as possible you must not allow the heat to distort the frame. The galvanizer should be able to help you with doing this. If you do go the galvanizing route you might also want to do the trailing arms and the fuel tank plate. After galvanizing (dunking in molten zinc) you will have to drill out and retap ALL of the holes in the frame. You will also be adding some weight to the frame. How much depends a lot on the technique used in the galvanizing process. A less intense process which may be adequate is spot repair and paint. If the car will be garaged and not driven in salt-laden snow this may be all you need.
David Teitelbaum

[ebrakespin]

You have to remove the epoxy and any rust. You also have to do any repairs and make some drain holes. Removing the epoxy is the hard part. Some possibilities include sandblasting or burning. Not only must you drain as much molten zinc as possible you must not allow the heat to distort the frame. The galvanizer should be able to help you with doing this. If you do go the galvanizing route you might also want to do the trailing arms and the fuel tank plate. After galvanizing (dunking in molten zinc) you will have to drill out and retap ALL of the holes in the frame. You will also be adding some weight to the frame. How much depends a lot on the technique used in the galvanizing process. A less intense process which may be adequate is spot repair and paint. If the car will be garaged and not driven in salt-laden snow this may be all you need.
David Teitelbaum

thanks for the quick response. I'm not sold on plating the frame, just trying to get all the info I can on it.

[kenny]

It is common in Ireland/UK to get the frame galvanised.
DMCJohn has done this a few times.

Recently owners have been using the burning process to remove the epoxy, cant remember the term but it basically turns the epoxy into dust. Ed Uding in DMCEU knows this process.
Galvanising adds some weight but not much. IIRC about 10Kg was mentioned somewhere.

There are some threads on this on the delorean.ie and the deloreaneurotec forums

[m_steenbrugge]

My DeLorean has a galvanised frame. It was done by DMCeu on request of the previous owner. I don't think it has to be rust free (surface rust), I was told the galva stick better on rust.

For what I know from the previous owner the rusted chassis was repaired, cleaned and galvanised.

I'm pretty sure it's a lot cheaper than a SS frame. I doesn't weigh that much more, like said on this thread aprox 10kg.

[ebrakespin]

well the galvanizer's manager is interested in the project and gave me a really low price so I'm going to get the frame hot dip galvanized. Now I need to find a place that can get rid of the epoxy!

Where would you go to get the epoxy burned off??

[David T]

I would try looking for a sandblaster first. A junkyard or a welder who has a large acetylene torch could burn it off but it would take a lot of time and wouldn't touch the rust like a sandblast job would.
David Teitelbaum

[ebrakespin]

I would try looking for a sandblaster first. A junkyard or a welder who has a large acetylene torch could burn it off but it would take a lot of time and wouldn't touch the rust like a sandblast job would.
David Teitelbaum

I figured there is a method of burning off the epoxy that wasn't so low tech, like a blast oven?

Reading on here it seems like people are saying sand blasters have a hard time removing the epoxy. Also, would they be able to properly clean the interior of the frames cavities?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I figured there is a method of burning off the epoxy that wasn't so low tech, like a blast oven?

Reading on here it seems like people are saying sand blasters have a hard time removing the epoxy. Also, would they be able to properly clean the interior of the frames cavities?

That epoxy would take a lot of sand blasting to remove it. If it's still bonned good it takes forever to just remove a place to add a ground connection. Blasting would not get anything inside.

[David T]

I mention sandblasting because it is fairly common. There are not a lot of places that have the equipment large enough to incinerate a part as large as the frame of a Delorean. Short of finding an oven large enough and hot enough a large warming torch (they call it a Rosebud) is more common. Used to preheat large objects before welding. Or maybe where you live you can invite everyone over for a BIG bonfire! They used to have a big one in Texas. Maybe Burning Man in Arizona? Too hot and you risk softening and melting the frame. With the right equipment and media sandblasting should work well, even inside. You may have to make some holes. Need them anyway to drain out the molten zinc. If the epoxy is bonded that well I would leave it and only worry about the areas it came loose.
David Teitelbaum

[DMCMW Dave]

We've tried just about everything. Sandblasting is completely futile. It doesn't go through the good epoxy and does not get inside.

Running it through a burn-off oven works pretty well, but finding a burn-off oven big enough for the frame is difficult. We are lucky to have found one in our own town but the next closest one is several states away. This process will leave chunks of carbon rattling around inside, and leaves the metal kind of dirty/rusty looking, as burning it does absolutely nothing to removed rust. You'll need to sandblast it after the burn.

The third option is a chemical strip. We tried two versions of this - one was a generic dip-stripper company and it wouldn't touch the epoxy. The other was a company called Redi-Strip that did a fantastic job. Not cheap, in fact the stripping cost 3x the cost of the galvanizing! Unfortunately they only have a few locations in the US, lucky for me one is near here.

The worst part of the process is after the galvanizing is completed. No matter how hard you try you will end up with plugged holes and will spend a lot of time and taps getting it ready to go back together.

If you want to coat over the galvanizing, you'll need to sandblast it again to get some bite on the galvanizing or the coating won't stick.

[ebrakespin]

well after talking to a lot of people and calling around my friend at work found a place a little over an hour from me that does the chemical stripping for cars and frames. http://www.chem-strip.com/ . I gave them a call to see if they could strip epoxy and they said "not a problem". They take it through 3 steps: bake wash, acid dip, and then a dry film protectant so the bare metal wont rust instantly. Price? They said it depends on the frame, but the max is only $450.

After all is said and done I will hopefully have a galvanized frame and trailing arms (and other random parts I gather up) for under 1K

[DMCMW Dave]

I gave them a call to see if they could strip epoxy and they said "not a problem". They take it through 3 steps: bake wash, acid dip, and then a dry film protectant so the bare metal wont rust instantly. Price? They said it depends on the frame, but the max is only $450.



Do yourself a favor - take the gas tank plate in first and see what they can do with it. Tell them to pretend they can't physically touch it i.e. no scraping, as you are counting on the process to do the hidden areas.

The first stripper I tried swore it would be easy and gave up after about 4 days in the hot tank. They found that the epoxy would soften in the tank but would never fall off/rinse off the way they expected it to, and it would harden back up as soon as it cooled. And still charged me for trying! When I got the frame back it looked like death, but was still firmly covered with epoxy except where they had manually picked at it.

This stuff isn't really epoxy paint as they would normally expect, it seems to be more like a thermoset plastic of some sort.

[ebrakespin]

Do yourself a favor - take the gas tank plate in first and see what they can do with it. Tell them to pretend they can't physically touch it i.e. no scraping, as you are counting on the process to do the hidden areas.

The first stripper I tried swore it would be easy and gave up after about 4 days in the hot tank. They found that the epoxy would soften in the tank but would never fall off/rinse off the way they expected it to, and it would harden back up as soon as it cooled. And still charged me for trying! When I got the frame back it looked like death, but was still firmly covered with epoxy except where they had manually picked at it.

This stuff isn't really epoxy paint as they would normally expect, it seems to be more like a thermoset plastic of some sort.

They still charged you? That's a horrible business practice! I will be sure to confirm with them that this is some tuff sh!t before I go. I told the guy I talked to a couple times that it was hard to get off, but he was dead set that it did not make a difference what it was they could strip it bare. I will ask again though to be positive, and make sure that I will not pay for them 'trying' and not succeeding. I could take in a tailing arm, but my gas tank plate was stripped by brake fluid and time:blackeye:

[DCUK Martin]

If you want to coat over the galvanizing, you'll need to sandblast it again to get some bite on the galvanizing or the coating won't stick.

For the record, I have also had frames galvanised and powdercoated. I use a chemical strip to get rid of the old epoxy (Surface Processing in Dudley, UK) and Medway Galvanising in Kent offer a complete service starting with hot-dip (which BTW is not the same as plating - I read that earlier in the thread) and finishing with a powdercoat. They put it the frame through an intermediate process to "age" the zinc which makes it the perfect surface for a powdercoat. You can read about it here.

http://www.medgalv.co.uk/powder-coating/

[ebrakespin]

I have searched a lot here and cant find any info on this anymore.

I am doing a frame off restoration and want to keep whatever I can from rusting when it all goes back together. So I talked to a galvanizer here in Columbia, SC and he said he will do certain parts, but they have to be completely prepped before dipping them. Also, I asked about plating the frame and he said they normally don't dip frames because of complications when draining the zinc, but since the Delorean frame is so different they will take a look at it.

here are my questions about this:
-what parts should I get plated?

-if you have got your frame plated, how did you strip off all the epoxy? Did you modify the frame for drainage?

Any info is appreciated! :notworthy:


I use a chemical strip to get rid of the old epoxy (Surface Processing in Dudley, UK) and Medway Galvanising in Kent offer a complete service starting with hot-dip (which BTW is not the same as plating - I read that earlier in the thread)

I now realize that getting something galvanized is a very different process than getting something plated and the two terms shouldn't be mixed up. Just so there is no confusion I am talking about Hot Dip Galvanizing. I found the following good info:

"In hot dip galvanizing components are immersed in molten zinc. As they are withdrawn, the zinc cools and forms a coating of zinc on the components. Strictly speaking, the term should be hot dip zinc coating instead.

Electro-galvanizing or 'zinc plated' means components are immersed in an aqueous bath, and electricity is used to induce anodes of zinc to dissolve in the aqueous solution, transport the ions, and electroplate them onto the components.

The principal function of both processes is corrosion resistance. Galvanized steel can last for many years if other means are maintained, such as paint coatings and additional sacrificial anodes.
In spite of the protection, rusting will be inevitable, especially due to natural acidity of rain.


Differences between Hot dip zinc coatings and Electroplated zinc coatings

Hot dip zinc coatings
Advantage
1. Several times thicker than electroplated zinc coatings. Hence several times as corrosion resistant and durability. Will always greatly outlast zinc electroplating in any environment.
2. The thickness of hot dip zinc coating is up to 10 times as electroplated zinc coating. The thickness depends on thickness of the part and the amount of silicon in the steel so the hot dip galvanizer is not free to pick a thickness. However, you can find out what thickness you can get on a sample part. Here is an example of the thickness: about 10 um for electrogalvanized and 55 um for hot dip.
Disadvantage
1. Doesn’t have smooth finish. May be spangled, or gray and drippy.
2. Cannot be used for bolts and nuts size M10 or smaller.

Electroplated zinc coatings (zinc plating)
Advantage
1. Smooth, shiny and drip-free. Electroplated steel is visually indistinguishable from stainless steel when new. So Electroplated zinc coatings are preferable for aesthetic reasons.
2. Significantly lower cost.
3. Doesn’t interfere with fastener threads because Zinc electroplating is thin.
4. Can be painted easily.
Disadvantage
1. Electroplating is rarely adequate for direct outdoor exposure. However, electroplating and subsequent painting is a durable combination which is used for car bodies of some premium models.
2. Less durable."

[ebrakespin]

It has been an uphill battle to reach this point, but i'm happy to say I got my frame back from the galvanizers and I am very stoked!! I am finally at the point in this project that I am rebuilding the car and not tearing it down. However I am moving from SC to MO at the end of this month so I have to get the D back rolling before then.

I have already started to remove the zinc from threaded holes and the front control arms bolt tubes in the frame. Soon, I will do a write up with pics of the prep needed before and all the taps and drills needed after galvanizing. below are a couple sneak peaks of the frame at this point.
1413014131

[Dangermouse]

man, that is one nice looking frame :hihi:

[Morpheus]

It has been an uphill battle to reach this point, but i'm happy to say I got my frame back from the galvanizers and I am very stoked!! I am finally at the point in this project that I am rebuilding the car and not tearing it down. However I am moving from SC to MO at the end of this month so I have to get the D back rolling before then.

I have already started to remove the zinc from threaded holes and the front control arms bolt tubes in the frame. Soon, I will do a write up with pics of the prep needed before and all the taps and drills needed after galvanizing. below are a couple sneak peaks of the frame at this point.
1413014131

Your frame looks great! I, too, have recently had my frame galvanized and I can empathize with how much of a pain the process can be. I have only drilled/tapped out the holes for my fuel tank plate thus far, so I look forward to your write-up of what other size taps are needed throughout.

[nullset]

Have you measured things to make sure the frame hasn't warped? One of the biggest concerns I've heard is that galvanization warps the frame, or at least has the potential.

--buddy

[David T]

I agree you should at least take some quick measurements of the frame to be sure it is straight. In the back of the Workshop Manual there is a diagram of a frame with dimensions. It would also have been interesting if you weighed it before and after galvanizing. You might consider clearcoating the frame to keep it looking pretty. Or covering it with grey paint so it looks original. Did you also galvanize the front control arms, the rear trailing arms, and tank plate?
David Teitelbaum

[Morpheus]

Im not sure about the OP, but I had my trailing arms and fuel tank plate done along with the frame. My plan is to powdercoat the frame, trailing arms, and plate to match the factory grey color.

My suspension components will be powdercoated as well.

I did a quick measurement after the galvanizing and there was no noticeable frame warpage. The fuel tank plate did warp a bit, however.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa5/morpheus34711/Daphne%20VIN%204363/06%20Frame%20Teardown/4b536b09.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa5/morpheus34711/Daphne%20VIN%204363/06%20Frame%20Teardown/9eeb0d7c.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa5/morpheus34711/Daphne%20VIN%204363/06%20Frame%20Teardown/f46258c8.jpg

[ebrakespin]

I also did some measuring and I cant find any signs of warping. It sits level on my garage floor too. The rear control arms, tank plate, radiator brackets, and sway bar were done along with my frame too. Like Morpheus, my tank plate warped a little but I got it pretty straight with a little bending and stomping.
142091421014211

[ebrakespin]

hey guys, I figured I would give a quick update. I had to put the project into overdrive due to me quitting my job and moving back to St. Louis. Here are some pictures that I added to my profile. Notice I put the trailing arms on upside down in my rush. I corrected that before I put the body back on :hihi2: Im pretty pleased with the results, but now I need to get to the engine, electrical, exterior, and interior.......

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=14801&d=1352594315

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=14802&d=1352594369

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=14803&d=1352594390

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=14804&d=1352594412

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=14807&d=1352594480

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=14808&d=1352594503

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=14809&d=1352594525

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=14810&d=1352594546

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=14811&d=1352594567

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=14812&d=1352594590

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=14813&d=1352594613

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=14814&d=1352594635

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=14816&d=1352594679

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=14817&d=1352594700

[Shuttleman]

Verry nice, did you open the front and rear crossmember to check for corrosion before gavanizing? I would like to gavanized my frame and this concerns me. Also could you give me a idea about the price?

thank you

[ebrakespin]

Verry nice, did you open the front and rear crossmember to check for corrosion before gavanizing? I would like to gavanized my frame and this concerns me. Also could you give me a idea about the price?

I replaced my crumple tubes and repaired all rust on the front cross member during that. As far as cost, it was $450 to get the frame acid stripped and I got a deal on galvanizing for only $100. I'm not sure how much it normally is though

[abarringer1]

Wow! Your frame looks awesome!!! I'm about to have mine galvanized as well. Could you do me a HUGE favor and let me know what size drills and taps you used? I would greatly appreciate it.

[ebrakespin]

If you are having your frame acid dipped, make sure they get the enclosed parts of the chassis cleaned out. Mine still had some melted epoxy stuck in the bottom of the center tube which resulted in some spots not being galvanized. I was in a rush so I took the frame directly from the strippers to the galvanizer's shop.

I have a group of pics I can throw on here when I get home where I wrote the size tap I used on the frame. I didn't have to drill anything out except the through holes for the blots on the front suspension, and I did that by just stepping up the drill size until the bolt slid in. I did have to clear some extra zinc out of some of the through holes, but as long as you stay with a drill size smaller than the thread you will be good.

[abarringer1]

I can't thank you enough for taking time to give me some advice. My frame has been sand blasted down to bear metal so I think it's good to go. The place I'm taking it to for galvanizing dips the frame in acid and such before galvanizing as well.

As for the tap sizes I'll be on the lookout for your pics. I'm a bit nervous about having to tap all of the holes but I'm sure it won't be as bad as what I'm thinking it'll be. At least I'll know for sure that the threads are good.

Mind if I also ask about the drain holes? Are there any places in particular that need to have a drain hole drilled?

Thank you so much,
Aaron

[Nicholas R]

Just out of curiosity, when you guys galvanize these frame parts, are you also planning to paint them or top coat them? I put "Hot Dip Galvanize per ASTM A123" on a lot of my steel part drawings as a finish process, but if there is even a chance that the part is going outside, or anywhere where it could get wet, it has to get a top coat.

The zinc after all is truly just a sacrificial material to slow down galvanic corrosion. Once it's gone, you're back to bare steel. Not to mention, any time you scratch or ding it, you're also back to bare steel. We always have "cold galv" on hand because the parts are always going to get dinged in the handling, and cold galvanizing is barely a step up from spray paint.

Not trying to be a downer but I really am curious.

[dn010]

Just out of curiosity, when you guys galvanize these frame parts, are you also planning to paint them or top coat them? I put "Hot Dip Galvanize per ASTM A123" on a lot of my steel part drawings as a finish process, but if there is even a chance that the part is going outside, or anywhere where it could get wet, it has to get a top coat.

The zinc after all is truly just a sacrificial material to slow down galvanic corrosion. Once it's gone, you're back to bare steel. Not to mention, any time you scratch or ding it, you're also back to bare steel. We always have "cold galv" on hand because the parts are always going to get dinged in the handling, and cold galvanizing is barely a step up from spray paint.

Not trying to be a downer but I really am curious.

I'd say a coating would be important on the rear arms, well, really anything facing the road that would risk damage from road debris..

The frames look great though, I'm jealous as I'm a little ways away in changing mine out for something not rust ridden! Good job, the pictures are great.

[DMCMW Dave]

We powder coat over the galvanizing.


Sent from phone

[Nicholas R]

We powder coat over the galvanizing.


Sent from phone

I'm definitely glad to hear that. I'm just curious about those that are galvanizing their own frames and parts. Galvanizing is by no means a one stop shop for corrosion protection by itself. It's definitely a good step in the process, but alone it's just a stall since the zinc is still extremely active (unlike a passive paint/epoxy/powder coating. Zinc is about as anodic as you can get. The purpose of the zinc is to give up it's elections to the steel to protect it when the steel tries to oxidize, but it doesn't last forever; especially in the open environment or the underside of a car.

[DMCMW Dave]

I'm definitely glad to hear that. I'm just curious about those that are galvanizing their own frames and parts. .

The trick to this is that after the galvanizing you have to LIGHTLY sandblast it again to give it some bite, or the p-coat won't stick very well. Overall a very pain-in-the-neck process.

1 - Redi-strip (Alkali, not Acid) OR burn-off oven. Both have their issues, but it's a lot better looking after being stripped than burned. And finding someone with a big enough oven is really a trick.
2 - Welding repairs
3 - Galvanize
4 - tap out all the holes
5 - Light sandblast
6 - Powdercoat
7 - Tap out the holes again that the guy forgot to plug

Everyone of these is a different subcontractor, so there is a lot of moving it around involved too.

[David T]

The trick to this is that after the galvanizing you have to LIGHTLY sandblast it again to give it some bite, or the p-coat won't stick very well. Overall a very pain-in-the-neck process.

1 - Redi-strip (Alkali, not Acid) OR burn-off oven. Both have their issues, but it's a lot better looking after being stripped than burned. And finding someone with a big enough oven is really a trick.
2 - Welding repairs
3 - Galvanize
4 - tap out all the holes
5 - Light sandblast
6 - Powdercoat
7 - Tap out the holes again that the guy forgot to plug

Everyone of these is a different subcontractor, so there is a lot of moving it around involved too.

Galvanizing (Zinc coating) is not a forever process. neither was epoxy coating. It will last longer but like most things it is all about how and how well it is done. Some of the disadvantages of galvanizing include:

It adds weight (we can argue over how much but it definitely adds weight)
It is a very labor intensive process and it takes a lot of skill at each step to get it right
There is a high risk of warpage especially if the frame is in bad condition
There are paints that can be near as effective as galvanizing if properly maintained as long as you are not immersing the frame in salt water.
Powder coating is more for cosmetic purposes over Zinc than actual corrosion protection.
There are plenty of other things that can rot besides the frame.

[ebrakespin]

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h343/ebrakespin/DSCF4570.jpg (http://s1105.photobucket.com/user/ebrakespin/media/DSCF4570.jpg.html)

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h343/ebrakespin/DSCF4577.jpg (http://s1105.photobucket.com/user/ebrakespin/media/DSCF4577.jpg.html)

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h343/ebrakespin/DSCF4572.jpg (http://s1105.photobucket.com/user/ebrakespin/media/DSCF4572.jpg.html)

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h343/ebrakespin/DSCF4567.jpg (http://s1105.photobucket.com/user/ebrakespin/media/DSCF4567.jpg.html)

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h343/ebrakespin/DSCF4563.jpg (http://s1105.photobucket.com/user/ebrakespin/media/DSCF4563.jpg.html)

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h343/ebrakespin/DSCF4557.jpg (http://s1105.photobucket.com/user/ebrakespin/media/DSCF4557.jpg.html)

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h343/ebrakespin/DSCF4548.jpg (http://s1105.photobucket.com/user/ebrakespin/media/DSCF4548.jpg.html)

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h343/ebrakespin/DSCF4554.jpg (http://s1105.photobucket.com/user/ebrakespin/media/DSCF4554.jpg.html)

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h343/ebrakespin/DSCF4558.jpg (http://s1105.photobucket.com/user/ebrakespin/media/DSCF4558.jpg.html)

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h343/ebrakespin/DSCF4552.jpg (http://s1105.photobucket.com/user/ebrakespin/media/DSCF4552.jpg.html)

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h343/ebrakespin/DSCF4547.jpg (http://s1105.photobucket.com/user/ebrakespin/media/DSCF4547.jpg.html)

I actually used a 1/2-20 tap for the rear control arm (the one in the pic I show 1-19). I also had to use a tap kit (taper, plug, and bottoming taps). I used a general tap w/taper 7/16-20 to tap body mount tapped hole (the only body mount in the middle of the frame that is a through hole).

I wrote down the drill sizes that I used to clean up some of the holes. Use these numbers as a guide and not blind faith. I don't claim to be a professional.

1/2" for front control arm bolt guide holes
29/64" rear control arm bolt guide holes
15/32" rear trailing arm through hole
5/16" heater line clip holes
1/4" fuel line clip holes

[ebrakespin]

Galvanizing (Zinc coating) is not a forever process. neither was epoxy coating. It will last longer but like most things it is all about how and how well it is done. Some of the disadvantages of galvanizing include:

It adds weight (we can argue over how much but it definitely adds weight)
It is a very labor intensive process and it takes a lot of skill at each step to get it right
There is a high risk of warpage especially if the frame is in bad condition
There are paints that can be near as effective as galvanizing if properly maintained as long as you are not immersing the frame in salt water.
Powder coating is more for cosmetic purposes over Zinc than actual corrosion protection.
There are plenty of other things that can rot besides the frame.

I agree, nothing lasts forever. Unless you are really abusing the car galvanizing alone will last a long long time. Look at all the things along the road that are galvanized. My advice would be to not let it take you overboard. I got mine galvanized because of the price I got when looking into it, and I wanted all the interior parts of the frame coated. However, I could have swabbed it with POR15 and probably have it last just as well

[Nicholas R]

I agree, nothing lasts forever. Unless you are really abusing the car galvanizing alone will last a long long time. Look at all the things along the road that are galvanized. My advice would be to not let it take you overboard. I got mine galvanized because of the price I got when looking into it, and I wanted all the interior parts of the frame coated. However, I could have swabbed it with POR15 and probably have it last just as well

I have to be honest, I disagree a little. Without a top coating to prevent the zinc from constantly oxidizing, I doubt you'll quite see as many years as you expect, abuse or not. Especially if it ever sees salt or even just road water. It won't be the entire frame, but corrosion spots will show up that can very easily grow. This is why I was saying we always have to touch up the areas where a galvanized piece gets scratched or dinged, because one small spot ruins everything.

Most things on the road that are galvanized are still painted (or electroplated). Otherwise, they're steel plate or something with significant cross section/thickness; not 16ga steel like our frames. I do agree that hot dipping gives you the advantage of coating the inside of the frame, but still, the parts that are constantly exposed need a layer to keep them from becoming active every time they get wet.

A galvanized coating is purely a sacrificial coating to protect the base metal from galvanic corrosion. It will slow down corrosion, but definitely not prevent it, as the coating itself is constantly corroding. I really recommend a top coat on the highly exposed areas. Either that or attach magnesium anodes to the frame to protect the zinc, lol.

[abarringer1]

Thank you so very much for sharing the pics with the tap sizes. This has been a huge worry for me. I plan on taking my frame to have it galvanized tomorrow. Hopefully it comes out as well as yours did! After I have it galvanized I'm taking it to be powdercoated. Hopefully that'll preserve it for a very long time.

Thanks again!

[dmc4087]

I had my chassis galvanised and powdercoated a few years ago. Still looks great today.

Galvanising is the best way imo.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/88mph/1-2.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/88mph/2-1.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/88mph/3-1.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/88mph/4-1.jpg

[Fozza]

Hi Guys, no ones really touched on the extra drainage holes that’s needed for the chemical stripping and hot dip galvanising. Any pictures, advice or tips would be appreciated.

[David T]

The shop you are working with is often the best place for advice. A lot depends on how they will be dipping, the angles they put it in at and the angles they remove it. From experience they will know what to do.

[Fozza]

The shop you are working with is often the best place for advice. A lot depends on how they will be dipping, the angles they put it in at and the angles they remove it. From experience they will know what to do.

Thanks David

[ebrakespin]

The chemical dippers I took my frame to didn't know what they were getting into I think. They said it would be fine with the stock holes in the frame, but they did not get all the epoxy off of the inside of the tubes in the rear of the frame.

[Fozza]

The chemical dippers I took my frame to didn't know what they were getting into I think. They said it would be fine with the stock holes in the frame, but they did not get all the epoxy off of the inside of the tubes in the rear of the frame.

Yeah, I am a bit worried about that. I was thinking of cutting open these sections to make sure we can get it all out. I wasn’t sure if it would be quite fluid or if it would be thick and gloopy. I’m now guessing it’s going to be more on the thicker side.