Parts/materials/tools list for a transmission overhaul - what to have on hand?

[jawn101]

So as a lot of you have already grown tired of hearing, I am getting ready to work on my transmission to do some preventative maintenance. Because of time constraints at the shop where I plan to do the work, I want to make sure I have all the parts, tools and materials ready and on hand so I can get the thing out, the work done, and reassembled in one day, with help.

The jobs I plan to do are as follows:

- Drop the trans
- Install a new flywheel main oil seal
- Install a new clutch (got the kit from Hervey with a pilot bearing, throw out bearing, plate, disc, alignment tool, etc)
- Split the trans open and replace the 2nd gear roll pin
- Install new primary and secondary shaft end nuts
- Install new flange sleeves and lip seals
- Install new O-rings along the input shaft
- Install new bushings and pivot bolts in the shift linkage and adjust it so the throws are slightly 'forward'

List of parts I have is:
- Front and rear transmission end cap seals
- Double lip seals for both output shafts
- Large O-ring for output shaft
- Stainless sleeves for the flanges
- Pivot bolts, bushings, and bushing inserts
- New primary and secondary shaft end nuts
- O-rings and seals for along the input shafts
- Double lip seal for under the flywheel
- Clutch plate
- Clutch disc
- Throw out bearing
- Pilot bearing
- Alignment tool
- Paper flywheel gasket
- DMCNW reinforced 2nd gear roll pin

I know I need to get some gasket adhesive for the paper gaskets, some anaerobic gasket maker (the red stuff) for putting the case halves back together, and a gallon of transmission oil. I also plan to rent a lip seal installer tool from AutoZone.

What else should I have on hand? The shop is equipped with all the standard tools, are there any specialty things I need to get? Other greases/adhesives/etc? Anti seize of any kind? Other while-you're-in-there parts? I don't want to do this again.

[DMCMW Dave]

-2 gallons of transmission oil. .

1 gallon is plenty.

PS - if you are going to replace the rollpins they probably ought to be on your shopping list. You also need the paper gasket under the flywheel/rear main but it should be in a clutch kit.

PPS - do you have a way to get the flywheel resurfaced and back to you in a few hours?

IMO This would be a very aggressive 1-day job, even with help.

[jawn101]

1 gallon is plenty.

PS - if you are going to replace the rollpins they probably ought to be on your shopping list. You also need the paper gasket under the flywheel/rear main but it should be in a clutch kit.

PPS - do you have a way to get the flywheel resurfaced and back to you in a few hours?

IMO This would be a very aggressive 1-day job, even with help.

Correct! I have the roll pins - I got them and most of the rest of this stuff from you, in fact :) It does appear that the paper seal is in the clutch kit from Hervey as well.

OK, so this is good and new info for me. Flywheel resurfacing - always required, sometimes required? What kind of place does that? I never considered it.

[DMCMW Dave]

Correct! I have the roll pins - I got them and most of the rest of this stuff from you, in fact :) It does appear that the paper seal is in the clutch kit from Hervey as well.

One of the hazards of people in the list using alias-names I guess . . . .


OK, so this is good and new info for me. Flywheel resurfacing - always required, sometimes required? What kind of place does that? I never considered it.

Someone with a flywheel resurfacing machine. I have a local machine shop do it. it's a stepped flywheel and they need to know how to put the step back in. The reason I mentioned it is that it might be hard to get done if, for example, you are trying to to the job on a Sunday.

It really depends on the condition of the flywheel, but it's considered risky NOT to do it, and the cost of failure is high (i.e. you get a grabby clutch and have to start over).

[jawn101]

One of the hazards of people in the list using alias-names I guess . . . .



Someone with a flywheel resurfacing machine. I have a local machine shop do it. it's a stepped flywheel and they need to know how to put the step back in. The reason I mentioned it is that it might be hard to get done if, for example, you are trying to to the job on a Sunday.

It really depends on the condition of the flywheel, but it's considered risky NOT to do it, and the cost of failure is high (i.e. you get a grabby clutch and have to start over).

Hey, at least I never say anything bad about you, right? :)

OK, so this is exactly the kind of info I needed. It's just the sort of dealbreaker that's going to mess up my plans. Better to find it out now than once the lump is dropped and I can't go anywhere. If I *COULD* find someone who'd do the resurfacing while we did the rest of the job.... anything else?

[Ron]

Seal puller?
Master/slave/fluid good to go?

[jawn101]

Seal puller?
Master/slave/fluid good to go?

I think the seal puller is something the shop will have on hand, but I'll double check and make sure.

The master/slave - they don't need to be flushed at the same time as the clutch install, do they? I was planning to do that another day to save time. I have to get my remote slave bleeder installed anyway so I was going to flush and fill the system when I do that.

[Ron]

Not really...I was thinking about how a lot of people really complain about how tight it is when dealing with the slave...but I guess you know all about that if you put a remote bleeder in ;-)

[jawn101]

Not really...I was thinking about how a lot of people really complain about how tight it is when dealing with the slave...but I guess you know all about that if you put a remote bleeder in ;-)

LOL, I didn't yet - but I bought one, and that's exactly why. :)

[Delorean Industries]

We have installed a number of remote bleeders here. My arguement against the bleeder is that if you need to bleed the slave you need to pull the manifold. Daily driving a DMC requires pulling the manifold at least once a year and cleaning the valley to prevent rot. I'm sure this thread/comment will be split from this. No arguement to it though. Lack of valley cleaning is exactly why we replace on average five blocks a month. It is only going to get worse as neglect and a lack of awareness continues. This is part of ownership along with regularly changing your brake, clutch fluid and coolant. Saves a lot of money in the long run.

[Ron]

lol...that's what I thought you meant at first...then like 'every second counts' LOL
I'd just do it at the same time...90% to do anyway, I guess...never done it.

[Nicholas R]

Do you have a seal driver kit to install the new flange lip seals?

[jawn101]

Do you have a seal driver kit to install the new flange lip seals?

Nope but like I said, I'll rent one at autozone ahead of time - thanks to you I have their part number and everything.

[Nicholas R]

Nope but like I said, I'll rent one at autozone ahead of time - thanks to you I have their part number and everything.

Haha, oh yea from the other thread :P

[Nicholas R]

Dont forget this!
http://gear.motocross.com/imgs/p_64881.jpg

It's anaerobic sealer/gasket maker. This is what Dave at DMCMW recommended to install the stainless sleeves on the half shaft flanges (if you're doing the sleeves), and also to use on the machined faces of the 2 halves of the casing when you're putting the two back together. You can buy it in a small tube or a big tube(pictured); you'll probably need the big tube (thats what I ended up buying).

[David T]

I would suggest you try to split the job up into a 2 day affair. Use the first day to disassemble, clean, and do the transmission. The second day can be the clutch and reassembly. If things go well on day 1 just keep going but what you are planning is ambitious. Doesn't leave much time for problems like stuck or broken bolts. Depending on the condition of the flywheel you may not need to resurface it and if the rear seal is not leaking it is best not to touch it. You may also want to consider replacing the boots and regreasing the C/V joints. If you don't have the S/S clutch line, now would be a good time to do it and maybe the clutch slave cylinder. The linkage is easily done at a later date if necessary.
David Teitelbaum

[DMC5180]

Josh is right, you should plan on pulling the intake and cleaning the VOD at some point. Having the transmission out, however, is absolutely the best time to replace the slave/master(were talking 20 minutes) on top of what you would likely be doing anyway. btw: special tool for Clutch master(#4 phillips) screwdriver or Hex Bit.

If you don't want to do that, then I would recommend not breaking open clutch line (creating a mess) if you are trying to avoid doing hydraulics work. There is enough slack in the Clutch line to allow you to drop the transmission out part way. Just remove the bracket from the case half and the 2 bolts for the slave. Tie wrap that stuff up out of the way. It is recommended to bleed/flush the system regardless though.

Clutch fluid Castrol GTLMA Dot 4

[jawn101]

Thanks all for the input. I will definitely have the anaerobic gasket maker on hand. Josh at DPI contacted me to let me know that he offers a generous flywheel exchange service, so I will get a shiny and perfect one and have it ready for the job to avoid any problems there. My master is new-ish and I do have the stainless clutch line, but I am uncertain on the condition or age of the slave.

I do have the parts on hand to rebuild the CV joints (have already done one that had a torn boot, months ago) but I can do that any time. It's in the plan, just not for this event.

And I never considered the need to remove the intake for clutch bleeding before, but you guys are right - it's wise preventative maintenance to have to go in and examine things.

Edit: to be clear, I have gone in and done major valley work since I've had the car. I meant I hadn't considered the need to do it on a regular basis.

[Delorean Industries]

If you leave brake fluid in the valley it will eat a hole through the block. I tested this and will post pictures shortly.

[jawn101]

If you leave brake fluid in the valley it will eat a hole through the block. I tested this and will post pictures shortly.

Yep, that shit is nasty. The only rust anywhere on my car is from where the leaking brake/clutch masters dripped onto the fuel tank closing plate. Which is how I know they were replaced not long before I got the her. :)

[David T]

I would hesitate taking the top off the motor AND taking the transmission out. Tackling 2 major jobs at the same time is a lot even for shops. Too many parts to go missing and when putting things back together too many things can go wrong. You CAN bleed the clutch slave from above. Put some heavy cardboard over the top of the motor and climb on top. You can stick your hand in front of the motor and reach the bleeder by pushing the hoses and wires aside. You can always leave the slave cylinder in place and after you get the transmission back in and running you can do the top of the motor and replace the slave cylinder at that time. I recommend little steps so if you mess up, the # of things that can go wrong are limited. If you attempt too ambitious a project and things don't go as planned you may get so far in over your head that you give up and can't get the car running.
David Teitelbaum

[jawn101]

Oh yeah, I had no intention of doing both at once.

[vwdmc16]

We'll have access to the lift and should be able to bled it together without much trouble. I was going to say there is a shop down the street that we always take our flywheels to for surfacing, he does great work and is open saturday but unless paid extra he wont finish it quickly. MAybe you should remove the trailing arm shields before coming to the shop to save us time too.

[jawn101]

We'll have access to the lift and should be able to bled it together without much trouble. I was going to say there is a shop down the street that we always take our flywheels to for surfacing, he does great work and is open saturday but unless paid extra he wont finish it quickly. MAybe you should remove the trailing arm shields before coming to the shop to save us time too.

Good plan, they'll be off the night before.

[jawn101]

Stopped by Carquest on the way home today to start picking up some of the odds and ends listed here, and wanted to double check something before I bought it. The Permatex anaerobic gasket maker they have is a blue compound, not red. They had regular red RTV, which I know is not correct. Is this the right stuff? Pic attached.

[DMCMW Dave]

Stopped by Carquest on the way home today to start picking up some of the odds and ends listed here, and wanted to double check something before I bought it. The Permatex anaerobic gasket maker they have is a blue compound, not red. They had regular red RTV, which I know is not correct. Is this the right stuff? Pic attached.

It's a blue tube but what comes out will be red.

[jawn101]

It's a blue tube but what comes out will be red.

Cool, thanks.