View Full Version : Frame & Body Passenger Door IMPOSSIBLE To Open
pezzonovante88
02-29-2012, 01:31 PM
Continuation from another thread I brought this up in, but I thought I'd start a new one. I removed the upper door panel of the passenger door and the inner-mechanisms seem to work 'okay'. When I really pull on the door from the outside it looks like the back (closest to the handle) is unlatched, but the front area of the door is REALLY fixed - won't budge. I don't know what else to do and I don't want to break/damage anything.
jawn101
02-29-2012, 01:36 PM
Continuation from another thread I brought this up in, but I thought I'd start a new one. I removed the upper door panel of the passenger door and the inner-mechanisms seem to work 'okay'. When I really pull on the door from the outside it looks like the back (closest to the handle) is unlatched, but the front area of the door is REALLY fixed - won't budge. I don't know what else to do and I don't want to break/damage anything.
Can you manually pull the rod that releases the front latch? With the door interior panels off you should have access to it. Check out this tech bulletin for pictures of the bellcrank mechanism that will help you identify it.
http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-10-8.81.html (look at page 3, or page 2 not counting the cover page)
pezzonovante88
02-29-2012, 01:41 PM
Can you manually pull the rod that releases the front latch? With the door interior panels off you should have access to it.
I think so. The long rod that goes toward the front seems a bit loose, but I 'think' its attached - trouble is, I can't see that far forward or get my hand in there to feel if it is attached. I can't seem to get the bottom panel off with the door closed to get better access.
jawn101
02-29-2012, 01:42 PM
I think so. The long rod that goes toward the front seems a bit loose, but I 'think' its attached - trouble is, I can't see that far forward or get my hand in there to feel if it is attached. I can't seem to get the bottom panel off with the door closed to get better access.
Ah yeah, the lower panel would be in the way and very hard to remove with the door stuck shut. You may have to get creative with a coat hanger or something and see if you can actuate that rod to get the door sprung, then remove the lower panel for real diagnosis.
pezzonovante88
02-29-2012, 01:45 PM
Ah yeah, the lower panel would be in the way and very hard to remove with the door stuck shut. You may have to get creative with a coat hanger or something and see if you can actuate that rod to get the door sprung, then remove the lower panel for real diagnosis.
Do you think it could have to do with the front striker and not the rods?
jawn101
02-29-2012, 01:47 PM
Do you think it could have to do with the front striker and not the rods?
I doubt it's the rods themselves causing the problem, but they're definitely the best (maybe only, considering the lower panel is still installed) chance of releasing the latch if it's stuck somehow.
Have you disconnected your electric lock module and/or shut off the battery? I wonder if the lock could be engaged at one latch and not the other due to a disconnected lock rod and/or solenoid troubles. Again difficult to tell sight unseen, it would take some fiddling with the bellcrank attached to the wiper arm to get a feel for if that's the case. And the front lock link is wayyy at the bottom of the door :(
pezzonovante88
02-29-2012, 01:59 PM
I doubt it's the rods themselves causing the problem, but they're definitely the best (maybe only, considering the lower panel is still installed) chance of releasing the latch if it's stuck somehow.
Have you disconnected your electric lock module and/or shut off the battery? I wonder if the lock could be engaged at one latch and not the other due to a disconnected lock rod and/or solenoid troubles. Again difficult to tell sight unseen, it would take some fiddling with the bellcrank attached to the wiper arm to get a feel for if that's the case. And the front lock link is wayyy at the bottom of the door :(
Well, the lock module was already removed, so there aren't 'power locks'. But, you could very well be right about one side being locked and the other unlocked. Trying to find a way to get a coat hanger down to the latch that I don't really even know the location of is going to be next to impossible. Sorry for my lack of knowledge, but what would the wiper arm bellcrank have to do with it?
Cory W
02-29-2012, 02:05 PM
Like a tailgate or rear hatch, our doors have a latch on each side, working in unison. the bellcrank makes sure that both sides work evenly.
Question: Are you parking the car inside or out? What's the temperature where you're keeping it? If you run the car with full heat on for a while (20-30 mins) can you get the door to open?
The reason I'm asking about these specific things is that I noticed I would have trouble with my doors as the temperature up here fluctuated. It was seasonal, but could catch you during spring or autumn, when the temperature could vary wildly from day to night.
I suspect in your case, provided the rods are all connected to their respective latch, there is some "binding" between the door lock and latch release. If things aren't aligned 'just so', it can jam in place.
pezzonovante88
02-29-2012, 02:13 PM
Like a tailgate or rear hatch, our doors have a latch on each side, working in unison. the bellcrank makes sure that both sides work evenly.
Question: Are you parking the car inside or out? What's the temperature where you're keeping it? If you run the car with full heat on for a while (20-30 mins) can you get the door to open?
The reason I'm asking about these specific things is that I noticed I would have trouble with my doors as the temperature up here fluctuated. It was seasonal, but could catch you during spring or autumn, when the temperature could vary wildly from day to night.
I suspect in your case, provided the rods are all connected to their respective latch, there is some "binding" between the door lock and latch release. If things aren't aligned 'just so', it can jam in place.
Currently, the car is inside the back of a Saab/Kia dealership shop - indoor temperature. Now, when I got the car, it sat outside our motel for one night where it got quite cold. In the morning when I opened the door and then attempted t close it, it was VERY difficult to close. We finally slammed it shut, and it hasn't opened since. If you look in some of DMCNY's albums on this site, you can see that the passenger door is a little out of alignment at the top near the T section.
Ken K mentioned a gentlemen in the ODOC named Gunther who is very good with doors. I wonder if he could help me out?
jawn101
02-29-2012, 02:17 PM
Currently, the car is inside the back of a Saab/Kia dealership shop - indoor temperature. Now, when I got the car, it sat outside our motel for one night where it got quite cold. In the morning when I opened the door and then attempted t close it, it was VERY difficult to close. We finally slammed it shut, and it hasn't opened since. If you look in some of DMCNY's albums on this site, you can see that the passenger door is a little out of alignment at the top near the T section.
Ken K mentioned a gentlemen in the ODOC named Gunther who is very good with doors. I wonder if he could help me out?
Hm, if it really needed a hard slam I wonder if one of the lock bars could have been engaged. It might have really bashed it in and that could be why the latch is stuck. I'm not sure what it would feel like to close one with the lock engaged. But you NEVER want to slam one of these doors hard. If it takes more force than a standard car door something needs to be adjusted or repaired.
Like Cory said, the bellcranks are multi-way pivots that allows the latches/locks at both ends to engage simultaneously. They can be finicky and need to be properly adjusted (they work quite well when they are). There are two in the door, one for the latches and one for the locks. The one for the locks also has an electrical contact (called the wiper arm) to detect lock engagement and manage the actuation of the solenoids. If you've got the power locking system disabled then that bit shouldn't factor in.
deloumis
02-29-2012, 02:18 PM
Can you see if the other latch is opening at all?
One problem I had is when the latch closes to the handle would unlatch but the other wouldn't, I would have go push down on the door all the way, gently pull up on the mirror then try opening the door while lifting gently with the mirror and handle.
I noticed this when one latch would FULLY open and the other would not, the door would have to go up even, instead of the side closes to the handle going up first.
I'm not sure if that will help, but that's just my experience.
Cory W
02-29-2012, 02:18 PM
Too bad I'm 4 hours off. I suspect I could get that door open and have you up and working again relatively quickly.
EDIT: I have met and heard good things about Gunther too...he's a true craftsman! Wait until you see his customer interior work!
In the meantime, have you tried:
-Pressing down on the inside door release while cycling the door lock on that side?
(and again using the key on the outside)
-pressing down on the inside door release handle while having somebody apply inward pressure on the outside, when trying to lift the door handle?
-Lifting the inside door handle while simultaneously attempting to push outwards?
-Verifying the door lock is in the same position as the functional door?
You never want to apply excessive pressure to the door; no more than you would trying to fully close a conventional car door that didn't quite close the first time.
pezzonovante88
02-29-2012, 02:25 PM
Too bad I'm 4 hours off. I suspect I could get that door open and have you up and working again relatively quickly.
EDIT: I have heard good things about Gunther too....wait until you see his customer interior work!
In the meantime, have you tried:
-Pressing down on the inside door release while cycling the door lock on that side?
(and again using the key on the outside)
-pressing down on the inside door release handle while having somebody apply inward pressure on the outside, when trying to lift the door handle?
-Lifting the inside door handle while simultaneously attempting to push outwards?
-Verifying the door lock is in the same position as the functional door?
You never want to apply excessive pressure to the door; no more than you would trying to fully close a conventional car door that didn't quite close the first time.
I haven't exactly tried the first thing you mentioned, I don't think. I've tried everything else. I'll give that a try, tomorrow hopefully though. The guys in the shop are hesitant to try anything, plus they're pretty busy so I can't hog them for too long so I'm kind of on my own. I also don't want to wear-out my welcome there. Anyway, I'll keep you updated. Thanks a lot for your help, I really do appreciate it.
Cory W
02-29-2012, 02:35 PM
Always happy to help!
We're expecting a fair amount of snow up here within the next few days, but the St. Patrick's Day parade is not totally out of the question. I probably won't know until the day before. Are you going to be there? Maybe we can take a run at it in the staging area before the parade starts. (I always carry my tools on distance runs)
Dangermouse
02-29-2012, 02:36 PM
T
-Pressing down on the inside door release while cycling the door lock on that side?
(and again using the key on the outside)
.
My passenger side door will occasionally lock like yours. My work around (until I get the rods/latches set) is to roll down the window and operate/cycle the interior door lock a number of times - sometimes 5, sometimes 20 times. You will feel when the door unlocks. I don't use the key on the outside.
pezzonovante88
02-29-2012, 02:41 PM
My passenger side door will occasionally lock like yours. My work around (until I get the rods/latches set) is to roll down the window and operate/cycle the interior door lock a number of times - sometimes 5, sometimes 20 times. You will feel when the door unlocks. I don't use the key on the outside.
Yeah, I've tried cycled it many times. Still won't budge :banghead:
jawn101
02-29-2012, 02:58 PM
You know, I can't recall off the top of my head but if you have your upper door panel off, you should be able to remove the escutcheon and then unbolt the grab handle. This would provide you a hole in the lower panel that should be large enough to reach inside and possibly manipulate some of the mechanism that is currently inacessible.
pezzonovante88
02-29-2012, 03:05 PM
You know, I can't recall off the top of my head but if you have your upper door panel off, you should be able to remove the escutcheon and then unbolt the grab handle. This would provide you a hole in the lower panel that should be large enough to reach inside and possibly manipulate some of the mechanism that is currently inacessible.
I got the escutcheon off and the piece behind the grab handle so I can get some more access. Its gonna take some more time, hopefully I can get to it tomorrow.
pezzonovante88
02-29-2012, 03:07 PM
Always happy to help!
We're expecting a fair amount of snow up here within the next few days, but the St. Patrick's Day parade is not totally out of the question. I probably won't know until the day before. Are you going to be there? Maybe we can take a run at it in the staging area before the parade starts. (I always carry my tools on distance runs)
Yes. If the weather is decent, I will do my darndest to be at the parade. I may also ask Ken if he can take a look on the weekend perhaps. He lives 10 minutes from me.
WelmoedJ
02-29-2012, 03:31 PM
I doubt it's the rods themselves causing the problem, but they're definitely the best (maybe only, considering the lower panel is still installed) chance of releasing the latch if it's stuck somehow.
Do not presume it is not the rod. The rod is halfway supported by a plastic guide.
If the rod "jumped" out of that guide there is too much play because of the length of the rod. That cabn prevent the front latch to operate as intended, regardless of the lock module/solenoid is working correctly.
Have you disconnected your electric lock module and/or shut off the battery? I wonder if the lock could be engaged at one latch and not the other due to a disconnected lock rod and/or solenoid troubles.
Just plain disconneting power to the lock module is sufficient.
Again difficult to tell sight unseen, it would take some fiddling with the bellcrank attached to the wiper arm to get a feel for if that's the case. And the front lock link is wayyy at the bottom of the door :(
True, the lower panel needs to be moved out of the way. You could try and reacht the front rod if you have small hands and some hook to pull it rearwards.
Thereafter check if the fingers on the bellcrank are positioned correctly.
If necessary remove all but the front latch rod and adjust until the fingers only connect two of the contacts.
Then you may re-align the other rods while not disturbing the finger positions on the bellcrank.
Did you take a look at the excellent video regarding door latch and lock troubles and remedies? 3 minutes long, perhaps something of a hint for your door in it, especially near the end. He's working on the left door. In this case it was a stuck rear latch, but it may give you a hint at how best to release the front latch.
Link to Delorean typical "stuck door" problem video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92JJQG57t1s
Speaking of the left door, if you want to know more about what you have beneath your lower right door panel, but cannot access it with the door stuck closed, then go into the lower panel of the left door and familiarize yourself with the territory.
As noted in the video and elsewhere in this thread, each of the latches will release IF they are not locked AND if the latch release rod THEN pulls them. A latch can be almost unlocked and still be locked. Try both your door key and your interior lock toggle to be sure you've got as much unlocking movement as you can get without accessing the rods themselves.
Elvis
03-01-2012, 01:06 AM
Had the same issue last year. 10 minutes later car was Okay again !
remove the lower panel which isn't that hard at all !
When yoiu have the top panel off you see some screws holding the
bottom piece in place. remove them.
then there are two bolts inside that hold the handle in place - these
are a bit tricky, but it can be done. remove them ! You need a torch light.
what's remainig now are the firtrees that keep it stuck to the door.
gently pull from the bottom of the door and take the whole panel off.
Now play with the long lower rod that goes to the front of the door.
(the plastic covercan be pulled off as far as you need, no need to cut or destroy it !)
push the rod forward and back and maybe also play with the door opener
handle and you will see the door is open faster than I type this stuff here.
Don't be afraid, just do it. There is no aersole you can use or other workaraound.
Panel off !
OK need to go to work.
Elvis & 6548 with the same problem on 977 in Oktober 2011
pezzonovante88
03-01-2012, 10:55 AM
Had the same issue last year. 10 minutes later car was Okay again !
remove the lower panel which isn't that hard at all !
When yoiu have the top panel off you see some screws holding the
bottom piece in place. remove them.
then there are two bolts inside that hold the handle in place - these
are a bit tricky, but it can be done. remove them ! You need a torch light.
what's remainig now are the firtrees that keep it stuck to the door.
gently pull from the bottom of the door and take the whole panel off.
Now play with the long lower rod that goes to the front of the door.
(the plastic covercan be pulled off as far as you need, no need to cut or destroy it !)
push the rod forward and back and maybe also play with the door opener
handle and you will see the door is open faster than I type this stuff here.
Don't be afraid, just do it. There is no aersole you can use or other workaraound.
Panel off !
OK need to go to work.
Elvis & 6548 with the same problem on 977 in Oktober 2011
Alrighty, well I'll try again to get the bottom panel off. Thanks.
tsm1975
06-29-2012, 07:11 PM
I'm a newbie who just purchased VIN 1663. The passenger door had been stuck since I made the purchase. Thanks to you all on this site, I was able to get it open and fix the problem. I had read previously about removing both interior panels, disconnecting the rods from the bell crank and pulling the rods manually. I did that and wahlaa, that door flew open like the first time you see Doc Brown in BTTF!! I found the problem was that the front latch was grasping the striker pin too close to the head of the pin. I added a thick washer to the pin, reconnected the rods to the bell crank and the door still opens with no problem. Anyway, your posts have sure helped me, and I want to contribute however I can. I'm proud to own my stainless steel beauty and proud to join you all on this site. Happy DeLorean motoring!
Tim
Edgewood, MD
jawn101
06-29-2012, 07:14 PM
I'm a newbie who just purchased VIN 1663. The passenger door had been stuck since I made the purchase. Thanks to you all on this site, I was able to get it open and fix the problem. I had read previously about removing both interior panels, disconnecting the rods from the bell crank and pulling the rods manually. I did that and wahlaa, that door flew open like the first time you see Doc Brown in BTTF!! I found the problem was that the front latch was grasping the striker pin too close to the head of the pin. I added a thick washer to the pin, reconnected the rods to the bell crank and the door still opens with no problem. Anyway, your posts have sure helped me, and I want to contribute however I can. I'm proud to own my stainless steel beauty and proud to join you all on this site. Happy DeLorean motoring!
Tim
Edgewood, MD
Cool, congrats! Start a new thread here in the general forum and tell us a little about yourself and your car. We love to see pics! Make sure to update the VIN registry thread with your info so we know where you and the car are.
tsm1975
06-29-2012, 08:01 PM
Cool, congrats! Start a new thread here in the general forum and tell us a little about yourself and your car. We love to see pics! Make sure to update the VIN registry thread with your info so we know where you and the car are.
Will do Jon! Thanks for the tip!
David T
06-29-2012, 10:03 PM
You should go over all of the adjustments now, the rods may have been stretched or bent. There is a whole procedure in the Workshop Manual. You should do it just as it says in the order it says. Make sure the head of the anchor pin you adjusted is not hitting the latch and shifting the door as it closes. Be careful of all of the sharp edges inside the door as you work inside. If everything is not working smoothly you should remove both latches, clean and relubricate them. That will make it all work SO much smoother.
David Teitelbaum
Will do Jon! Thanks for the tip!
stevedmc
06-29-2012, 10:15 PM
You should go over all of the adjustments now, the rods may have been stretched or bent.
You should also replace the door while you are at it.
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