Two New Gremlins-"Brake" Light Doesn't Come On/Engine Bay Light Doesn't Come On

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I have discovered two new gremlins....they worked fine in the fall when I put the car in storage...

-"Brake" Light Doesn't Come On in the Dash when I pull the parking brake lever...

-Engine Bay Light Doesn't Come On when I open the lower engine cover.....

I may need schooled on how to use a test light on this car. I unplugged both the engine light switch and the emergency brake light switch, touched the test light probe to what should be the power feed wire and grounded the other end of the test light to the emergency brake assembly and tried connecting it to the second connector on the engine bay light switch and it would not light up, no matter how I tried(depressing the switch as well). Everything else works fine on the car.

Both bulbs are LEDs

Can anyone crack this case?

Thanks!

Josh Q

[Mike C.]

To test the engine compartment light, unplug both wires from the switch and connect them together to complete the circuit. If it still doesn't light, the bulb is bad. If it does light, your switch is bad.

Same for the brake switch. Basically you are completing a circuit.

[jawn101]

Josh, have you tried the brake reservoir test button? That will help with the brake light, if it lights when you press that your handbrake switch is the culprit. If it doesn't it's probably the bulb.

I guess it's sort of an assumption that your test button works in the first place though. Might not be a conclusive test but something to try :)

[WelmoedJ]

And don't assume the contacts of the bulb's fitting are okay.
I've seen very dirty contacts and therefore not able to make proper contact to transport current.

[David T]

Since you mentioned the bulbs are LED's, if they are installed backwards they will not work. Try with an ordinary bulb. You may need to figure out if a wire fell off a switch, a switch is bad, etc. Learning how to use a test light and/or a voltmeter will get you a lot further along in trying to figure this kind of stuff out. Very simple circuits.
David Teitelbaum

[Mike C.]

On the subject of test lights, make sure the bulb in the test light works, or you will be busy for a very long time.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I am trying to find out if power is getting to the switch, then I can test the switch...

[Ron]

I am trying to find out if power is getting to the switch, then I can test the switch...
For these two circuits, the power is already at the bulb(s)...it's waiting to be grounded, so:
Put the test light wire on the battery (-) to test the feed wire for the switch.
Put the test light wire on the battery (+) to test the ground wire for the switch.
The key must be on to test the brake light circuit.
The engine light circuit is always hot.

[WelmoedJ]

Since you mentioned the bulbs are LED's, if they are installed backwards they will not work. Try with an ordinary bulb. You may need to figure out if a wire fell off a switch, a switch is bad, etc. Learning how to use a test light and/or a voltmeter will get you a lot further along in trying to figure this kind of stuff out. Very simple circuits.
David Teitelbaum

- LED bulbs for 1156/1157 sockets are not polarized.
- If you have on old circuit board, check for weak rivets at the positive (center) contact and at the negative (fitting) contact on the circuit board.
- Also check if your bulbs base has a lot of play in the fitting
- Check for a dirty edge connector (fingers corroded or black with dirt)

Also check and test every connection with a proven power and ground source.
Did you test the LED itself directly on the battery (pin to plus, base to ground)?
No disrupted traces (the "silver" stripes) on the circuit board?

[DeloreanJoshQ]

- LED bulbs for 1156/1157 sockets are not polarized.
- If you have on old circuit board, check for weak rivets at the positive (center) contact and at the negative (fitting) contact on the circuit board.
- Also check if your bulbs base has a lot of play in the fitting
- Check for a dirty edge connector (fingers corroded or black with dirt)

Also check and test every connection with a proven power and ground source.
Did you test the LED itself directly on the battery (pin to plus, base to ground)?
No disrupted traces (the "silver" stripes) on the circuit board?

The two bulbs in question are a festoon style bulb and the small bulb behind the "brake" reminder/warning light.


For these two circuits, the power is already at the bulb(s)...it's waiting to be grounded, so:
Put the test light wire on the battery (-) to test the feed wire for the switch.
Put the test light wire on the battery (+) to test the ground wire for the switch.
The key must be on to test the brake light circuit.
The engine light circuit is always hot.

This is the info I was looking for, thanks!!