Car will not start again!

[coreydmc]

I need help again guys! My car will not start again. Last time it was my RPM fuel relay. I unplugged the old one and used a jumper and the car started right up. So i ordered a replacement RPM relay from DMCH. I will eventually get the from from bitsyncmaster. I plugged in new relay and car started right up. I have started it about 10 times with the new relay. Today I went to pull car out of garage and it will not start. I disconnected relay and used jumper wire and still wont start. I am smelling plenty of fuel with relay or jumper. I have also checked the inertia switch and it is fine. Any thoughts?:

[jawn101]

I need help again guys! My car will not start again. Last time it was my RPM fuel relay. I unplugged the old one and used a jumper and the car started right up. So i ordered a replacement RPM relay from DMCH. I will eventually get the from from bitsyncmaster. I plugged in new relay and car started right up. I have started it about 10 times with the new relay. Today I went to pull car out of garage and it will not start. I disconnected relay and used jumper wire and still wont start. I am smelling plenty of fuel with relay or jumper. I have also checked the inertia switch and it is fine. Any thoughts?:

Does it crank? Do you have the starter solenoid circuit jumper installed? (http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-05-2.82.html)

[Bitsyncmaster]

How long did the car sit before it failed to start? What I find on mine is it needs to use the CSV system if it sits for 1 or 2 weeks. If less then that time it starts right up without the CSV.

What I guess happens is the injector lines get drained after sitting a ling time.

If you try the "plug swap" and it starts, then you know something is wrong with the CSV system.

[coreydmc]

ok ill start with the plug swap. what is the procedure again?

[nullset]

If the car is completely cold, try to start it. Success? yay. Nothing is wrong with your CSV.

Let it warm up and turn it off.

Wait a bit, and try to start it. If it doesn't start, then you take the blue plug in the engine bay, and put it where the grey plug is and try to start. If it starts up, then that means your fuel system lost pressure, when it shouldn't have. This makes the cold start valve always fire. Unplug it and put the grey one back on and the engine should keep going just fine. Leave it on and you'll flood the engine.

This is a "hot start" problem. There are two things that typically cause it: a bad accumulator and an O-ring in the fuel distributor.

--buddy

[Bitsyncmaster]

ok ill start with the plug swap. what is the procedure again?

You move the plug from the WUR (gray plug I think) to the CSV (blue plug I think). Just leave the normal CSV plug not connected. Don't crank your engine for to long or you will flood it. If it still does not start, you have another problem.

[coreydmc]

ok I tried that and nothing. still wont start. Whats next on the list to check for?

[DMCMW Dave]

Check the connections on the coil and the ballast resistors. They go bad ALL the time.

[coreydmc]

My coil was replaced with a NOS from DMCH a few months ago. I cleaned and installed new ends on the wires that connect to the coil and the resistor. What should my readings be and how should I check?

[nofear365]

Don't forget the inertia switch. Mine puked on me once and I ended up having to push my car home. :thumbdown:

[David T]

If it is cranking and won't start you must figure out if it is a fuel or an ignition problem. A quick way to determine that is to try a SMALL shot of Ether into the mixture unit as you are trying to start the car. If it starts then you have a fuel problem. If it still won't then you have an ignition problem. Once you KNOW which system is not working you can start troubleshooting it because you have narrowed the problem down into just one of the systems. Trying to get the motor running any other way is just "shotgunning" the problem. You will go back and forth probably causing more problems and replacing good parts. Another way (takes a little more effort) is to pull one spark plug and while someone tries cranking the motor you watch to see if there is a spark. If the battery is weak and not cranking the motor over at a good speed get it recharged before any further testing.
David Teitelbaum

[coreydmc]

I noticed that my oxygen sensor is unplugged. would that cause a starting problem?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I noticed that my oxygen sensor is unplugged. would that cause a starting problem?

No. The O2 sensor looks like an open (unplugged) circuit until it warms up by the exhaust.

[Ron]

Since you smelled fuel from the beginning, at this point, I'd quit introducing more fuel with sprays and swaps and check out the ignition. Pull a few easy plugs and check them for spark and fouling...

[coreydmc]

ok im going out to get some spray ether. What is the procedure? Just pull air box and spray some in manifold and try to start? I pulled all the plugs and cleaned them last week.

[Bitsyncmaster]

ok im going out to get some spray ether. What is the procedure? Just pull air box and spray some in manifold and try to start? I pulled all the plugs and cleaned them last week.

That's all it takes to use ether. I use it to start my outdoor equipment after it sat all winter.

[David T]

Don't use too much. A 2 second squirt while holding the air sensor plate down is all you need. If it tries to start even a little you know the problem is fuel. If you get nothing more than you already have, it is ignition.
David Teitelbaum

[Jimmyvonviggle]

Is there a trade name for Ether or is it just called Ether at a harware/automotive store?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Is there a trade name for Ether or is it just called Ether at a harware/automotive store?

Starter Fluid or somthing like that. It's all the same.

[coreydmc]

yesterday my car started fine, today it started fine. it was also in the upper 60's low 70 degree temps. Do you think this has something to do with car not starting sometimes?