Photos of my fusebox/relay/circuit breaker area-Have some questions on mods, updates

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Photos of my fusebox/relay/circuit breaker area
I have some questions on mods, updates, etc.
My car runs fine. I haven't really looked in-depth into the fusebox area so I took some pics and would appreciate any feedback, comments,and suggestions...

I have some questions for each photo....

Photo #1
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p48/jaq78/DSC06578.jpg
-Why is there an empty socket three over from the bottom left(Interior lamp delay unit)? Anyone know why this would be missing? There are LED courtesy lights installed above the interior mirror and below the rear glass....
-Why is there an "X" marked 4 over from the top left(Lambda relay)?
-Do all of the relays look updated in this photo?

Photo #2
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p48/jaq78/DSC06577.jpg
-The two circuit breakers in the middle bottom...the one on the left looks like it has been modified with the ring terminals(cooling fan breaker), the one on the right(blower fan breaker) hasn't. Should I update it as well? Is the blower motor breaker supposed to be 30AMP?
-Except for Fuse #7, which looks like it melted and has been replaced by a fuse extender, does the rest of the fusebox look ok?
-Fuse #5 is 10 AMP, but I think it should be 20 AMP, correct? Any known reason why? I know that LEDs have been installed in the dash to replace nearly all of the other bulbs...
-Does everything else look ok in this photo?

Photo #3
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p48/jaq78/DSC06574.jpg
-What is the white empty relay socket for?
-Is the black relay the RPM relay? Is it an "updated relay"?
-Does everything else look ok in this photo?

Photo #4
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p48/jaq78/DSC06572.jpg
-What is the circuit breaker between the two Zilla boxes (brown and red wires)? Is it the door lock breaker?
-Where are the main and accessory relays?
-Does everything else look ok in this photo?

Any other comments or suggestions?

Thanks everyone!

Josh Q

[stevedmc]

Photo 1
Your courtesy lights will not work with the lamp delay unit if they are LED. Leave the empty socket alone and consider it an upgrade. I believe Bitsynchmaster sells a digital module that is compatible with LEDs. You don't need it for the courtesy lights to work. You just need it if you want the dimmer option. I have heard nothing but good stuff about his product but I do not have one. I am happy with my LEDs just turning on and off.

Your black relays are updated. Stocks ones are metalic.

Photo 2
The old circuit breaker should be fine. I cant remember what it is for right now. Updated 30AMP circuit breaker was installed by a PO because the 25AMP circuit breaker is not powerful enough to run the AC Blower Motor on speeds 3 and 4 without getting tripped. The ring terminals are fine. By using ring terminals you can use circuit breakers from Autozone which only cost $3. If you choose to use the original design you will have to order the part from Grady and pay around $15 + shipping.

Photo 3
The empty white socket is where you would plug in your hot start relay if you need one. If you aren't having hot start problems then dont worry about it. If you are having hot start problems you can get a hot start relay from Hervey which has a button on it you can press to start each time you have a hot start problem. I would suggest fixing the hot start problem if you have one instead of doing the relay. The relay is just a bandaid.

Photo 4
I belive you are right. I think the breaker you are describing is for the door locks.


I am still learning myself but hopefully I helped point you in the right direction. Hervey has a lot of good pictures and information on the relay compartment on his website that you might want to check out.

http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/relay-compartment-references.html

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Photo 1
Your courtesy lights will not work with the lamp delay unit if they are LED. Leave the empty socket alone and consider it an upgrade. I believe Bitsynchmaster sells a digital module that is compatible with LEDs. You don't need it for the courtesy lights to work. You just need it if you want the dimmer option. I have heard nothing but good stuff about his product but I do not have one. I am happy with my LEDs just turning on and off.

Your black relays are updated. Stocks ones are metalic.

Photo 2
The old circuit breaker should be fine. I cant remember what it is for right now. Updated 30AMP circuit breaker was installed by a PO because the 25AMP circuit breaker is not powerful enough to run the AC Blower Motor on speeds 3 and 4 without getting tripped. The ring terminals are fine. By using ring terminals you can use circuit breakers from Autozone which only cost $3. If you choose to use the original design you will have to order the part from Grady and pay around $15 + shipping.

Photo 3
The empty white socket is where you would plug in your hot start relay if you need one. If you aren't having hot start problems then dont worry about it. If you are having hot start problems you can get a hot start relay from Hervey which has a button on it you can press to start each time you have a hot start problem. I would suggest fixing the hot start problem if you have one instead of doing the relay. The relay is just a bandaid.

Photo 4
I belive you are right. I think the breaker you are describing is for the door locks.


I am still learning myself but hopefully I helped point you in the right direction. Hervey has a lot of good pictures and information on the relay compartment on his website that you might want to check out.

http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/relay-compartment-references.html

Thanks for the tips Steve!

-Josh Q

[DMCMW Dave]

The Lambda relay is marked with an X because in the older all-metal update kits all the relays looked the same, and this one is signficantly electrically different. If you put a common relay in that socket, the freqency valve will not run. If you put the "x" relay in most any of the other common-relay sockets, it will cause most of the grounds to melt in the relay compartment.

Hence the sign DO NOT INTERCHANGE MODULES.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

The Lambda relay is marked with an X because in the older all-metal update kits all the relays looked the same, and this one is signficantly electrically different. If you put a common relay in that socket, the freqency valve will not run. If you put the "x" relay in most any of the other common-relay sockets, it will cause most of the grounds to melt in the relay compartment.

Hence the sign DO NOT INTERCHANGE MODULES.

Is there an updated plastic version of the Lambda relay? Or not necessary?

[stevedmc]

The Lambda relay is marked with an X because in the older all-metal update kits all the relays looked the same, and this one is signficantly electrically different. If you put a common relay in that socket, the freqency valve will not run. If you put the "x" relay in most any of the other common-relay sockets, it will cause most of the grounds to melt in the relay compartment.

Hence the sign DO NOT INTERCHANGE MODULES.


This sounds like a good relay for me to remove since I have ditched Kjet. Someday I am going to clean up in there and will label everything. But first I need to label the jumper pins on the RPM relay and tape a paperclip or jumper wire to it.

Oh, btw, I think Bitsyncmaster has a digital version of it, Hervey has an updated version but I don't think it is digital, and I would bet DMCH has an updated version as well. Dave is the man to buy from if you go with a DMCH part.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Sorry I can not see your photos on my work computer (server denies those web sites).

As people stated, the lambda relay is different. Myself and a few others have made a simple wire change to be able to use a standard relay in the lambda relay socket.

You just need to remove the center pin (red/purple) in the lambda relay socket and connect it to the green/yellow wire of the lambda relay socket.

I never figured out why DMC designed that relay different. My guess is they were running a different lambda ECU / frequency valve that required isolation when the power was off.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Sorry I can not see your photos on my work computer (server denies those web sites).

As people stated, the lambda relay is different. Myself and a few others have made a simple wire change to be able to use a standard relay in the lambda relay socket.

You just need to remove the center pin (red/purple) in the lambda relay socket and connect it to the green/yellow wire of the lambda relay socket.

I never figured out why DMC designed that relay different. My guess is they were running a different lambda ECU / frequency valve that required isolation.

Any specific relay(ex amp, pin config, etc.) at a local auto parts store I need to get to replace the Lambda relay?

So pull out the red/purple wire in the lambda relay socket and combine it with the green/yellow wire and then plug the relay in?

Thanks!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Any specific relay(ex amp, pin config, etc.) at a local auto parts store I need to get to replace the Lambda relay?

So pull out the red/purple wire in the lambda relay socket and combine it with the green/yellow wire and then plug the relay in?

Thanks!

Yes the "standard" relay will work after you make the wiring change. I don't think the auto parts stores carry any other type of "30 amp" relay other than the standard type. The lambda takes less then 5 amps so any current rating will work.

Yes you have the wire change correct.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I updated the blower fan circuit breaker to 30amp....I had experienced an intermittent problem with the blower motor turning on and off after warming up(it acted as though it would get warm, shut off, then after cooling, it started back up and continued the cycle)...I didn't get to test it more than with the engine off just to make sure it worked after the upgrade...I also checked the connections at the blower motor itself...

I found the main and auxilary relays under the door lock module that have metal casings...do these rarely go bad? Any need to upgrade or change them to plastic housings?

I looked at the lambda relay and have a replacement relay ready to go...just contemplating my plan of action since it is a very tight area to work in and the wiring is also very tight. Dave Bit, what is the easiest way to move the wiring for the lambda relay socket mod?

Also Dave Bit, I plan to get your updated RPM relay and interior lamp delay relay in the future...Thanks for the help!

Josh Q

[Bitsyncmaster]

You just need to remove two screws you see when you pull two relays from that bank. Then the whole bank of relays will tilt up to do any work that needs to be done.

I don't think the AUX (MAIN) relays ever go bad. Those are rated for 70 amps and in our cars the current is way less than that.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

You just need to remove two screws you see when you pull two relays from that bank. Then the whole bank of relays will tilt up to do any work that needs to be done.

I don't think the AUX (MAIN) relays ever go bad. Those are rated for 70 amps and in our cars the current is way less than that.

Thanks for the tip Dave! I did the change, everything appears to work fine...I'll be getting in touch with you in the near future on those relays...

Josh Q

[Chris 16409]

Josh,

Now that you've done the wire mod to the lambda relay socket, consider getting Dave's solid state relay for that too. I've got several of his solid state relays.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Josh,

Now that you've done the wire mod to the lambda relay socket, consider getting Dave's solid state relay for that too. I've got several of his solid state relays.

On my list...just not at the very top....but I will get to buying them soon...trying to pace myself...