Where to buy split hoses?

[nullset]

My AC hoses finally gave up the ghost. Good bye R-12. Enjoy your trip to the stratosphere :(

I'm trying to get some new hoses. I'd prefer the split ones so that I don't have to raise the body off the frame to replace them.

Does anyone besides Hervey sell those? I'd like to order them ASAP, but he's not answering his phone, and I know from experience that ordering something online from him is useless unless you actually talk to him.

Does anyone else sell the split hoses?

--buddy

[sean]

Does anyone else sell the split hoses?


Not to my knowledge. I suppose you gotta keep on JH.

[nullset]

Not to my knowledge. I suppose you gotta keep on JH.

How hard is it to install the not-split ones?

--buddy

[sean]

How hard is it to install the not-split ones?

--buddy

Not terribly difficult. I've installed the driver's side one before without lifting the body. I've never installed a passenger's side one that wasn't split so im guessing that's the one that causes the most problems requiring some body lift.

[nullset]

Not terribly difficult. I've installed the driver's side one before without lifting the body. I've never installed a passenger's side one that wasn't split so im guessing that's the one that causes the most problems requiring some body lift.

Aren't they supposed to be replaced as a set?

--buddy

[David T]

It can be done but you have to bend the flange on the frame. The driver's side is harder than the passenger side. The split hoses make it SO much easier. Replace all three hoses. You should also change the oil in the compressor even if you are staying with -12. It also wouldn't hurt to replace the dryer. If the insides are clean and shiny don't touch the orifice tube.
David Teitelbaum

[sean]

Aren't they supposed to be replaced as a set?

--buddy

The car has been on the road for about 8 years or so now without issue so I suppose it's ok if you just replace one. Not 100% what is supposed to be done I guess.


It can be done but you have to bend the flange on the frame.
I bent nothing when I did it, sure I did some encouraging but nothing permanent in nature.

[nullset]

It can be done but you have to bend the flange on the frame. The driver's side is harder than the passenger side. The split hoses make it SO much easier. Replace all three hoses. You should also change the oil in the compressor even if you are staying with -12. It also wouldn't hurt to replace the dryer. If the insides are clean and shiny don't touch the orifice tube.
David Teitelbaum

What's the third hose?

There's no dryer in the Delorean A/C. Do you mean the accumulator?

I'm also trying to determine if I can upgrade to the setup with the newer style accumulator - $18.95 versus $99…… Anyone know if it's possible or what's required? (My vin is 02072, the change happened ~3660)

--buddy

[sean]

The third hose runs from the accumulator to the condenser.


Anyone know if it's possible or what's required? (My vin is 02072, the change happened ~3660)


Take a look at your first and make sure it hasnt been done yet. If the hose feeds into the bottom of the accumulator then that's the $99 unit.

Early style:
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/AC-ORIGINAL_SETUP.jpg

Newer style:
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/ac-accum-reference.jpg

[Nicholas R]

What's the third hose?

There's no dryer in the Delorean A/C. Do you mean the accumulator?

I'm also trying to determine if I can upgrade to the setup with the newer style accumulator - $18.95 versus $99…… Anyone know if it's possible or what's required? (My vin is 02072, the change happened ~3660)

--buddy

Yes you can, all you have to do is buy the new low pressure hose. I did this last summer. I was in the same boat; changed the accumulator, evaporator, crossover line, and high pressure hose. Originally my car (1643) had all the early stuff. I just ordered the later lines from John and a new accumulator and it worked great.

[jmpdmc]

Hello,

Rob Grady did some A/C work for me 1+1/2 years ago and he used the split hoses, I believe from JH. Worth a call to Rob--he will answer.


Jeff

[nullset]

Here are some pics of my accumulator. What version do I have?

9147914891499150

Do I need a new accumulator, or can I reuse what's there?

If so, the new or the old, or either, if I'm buying new hoses?
--buddy

[jawn101]

Here are some pics of my accumulator. What version do I have?

9147914891499150

Do I need a new accumulator, or can I reuse what's there?

If so, the new or the old, or either, if I'm buying new hoses?
--buddy

You have the 'old' style one. Notice the hose with hard fitting at the bottom.

I'm surprised to see David T saying "it wouldn't hurt" to replace the accumulator as he's normally an advocate of the do-it-all-right method. You're really supposed to (from what I've read, and I certainly did it on my car) replace the accumulator when you convert to R134 to be sure the dryer media is compatible and there's no old oil in it.

Keep on JH, he will pick up eventually. He does mail runs in the morning and evening and sometimes isn't available til the afternoon.

EDIT: Misread and thus misquoted David T, which will only lead to trouble :) Fixed that.

[David T]

The dryer IS also the accumulator. If you have a tight system and have not been refilling it regularly, and the insides of the hoses are clean, you can assume the dryer is not full of junk and skip replacing it. If the system has been dead for a long time or you have been constantly topping off to keep it blowing cold air, or you want to go to the new style, or you are converting to -134, then you should change the dryer. The main reason for changing the dryer is that it absorbs any moisture that is in the closed, recirculating system. If the system has been clean and tight you should not have much, if any, moisture in it so the dryer should not be overloaded with moisture. I am not a big fan of replacing things which do not require replacement. The replacement of some parts is sometimes a judgement call. Knowing the car's history can help in deciding.
David Teitelbaum

[nullset]

I'm not converting to 134a. It was working fine until the hose decided it had had enough of keeping R-12. I heard a slow hiss and by the time I got to my evacuate and recharge station, it had completely bled off. Fortunately, I have plenty of R-12. It'll be a few days before I can refill and reseal the system, though.

I probably won't replace the accumulator. I'll pull a deep vacuum and hold it,which should take care of the moisture.

If I do replace the accumulator, I'll get the new style one with the new hose. It probably won't hurt.

--buddy

[stevedmc]

Keep on JH, he will pick up eventually. He does mail runs in the morning and evening and sometimes isn't available til the afternoon.

I usually leave him a short message and send an email if I don't hear back from him in a day or so. Usually that trick works.

[nullset]

I usually leave him a short message and send an email if I don't hear back from him in a day or so. Usually that trick works.

His voicemail isn't picking up either, or I'd leave a message.

--buddy

[David T]

You should try to seal the system again at least temporarily. If necessary cut the bad section out of the hose and seal both ends tightly. You want to prevent atmospheric moisture from getting in. Pulling a hard vacuum will remove moisture from the dryer but you should also use a heat gun on it while pulling the hard vacuum to aid in driving out any moisture. If the area surrounding the leak looks wet you also lost a lot of oil. Before recharging with gas you should check the oil level in the compressor.
David Teitelbaum

[nullset]

You should try to seal the system again at least temporarily. If necessary cut the bad section out of the hose and seal both ends tightly. You want to prevent atmospheric moisture from getting in. Pulling a hard vacuum will remove moisture from the dryer but you should also use a heat gun on it while pulling the hard vacuum to aid in driving out any moisture. If the area surrounding the leak looks wet you also lost a lot of oil. Before recharging with gas you should check the oil level in the compressor.
David Teitelbaum

I'm going to replace the compressor oil while I'm in there.

--buddy

[dmc6960]

Since you have all of the professional equipment and plenty of R12 at your disposal, I'm going to suggest two options...

Do you know where the hose specifically leaked? If so, it is a simple job for someone with the proper tools to crimp on a splice into the existing hose. I've seen it done on a car where the high pressure hose burst from the steering shaft.

Option two are for NOS hoses, and I only suggest these as your still keeping R12. I've heard (I think from Dave Swingle, but dont quote me on that) about not having much problems replacing hoses at all even without separating the body. Some of the key points are lifting the body, not the frame, so the body slightly flexes outward from the frame. Then using a wet or soapy hose, hitting it with a rubber mallet and it pops into place. Some coercing with a padded prybar may be necessary for one or two spots but it was fully doable. Never having done that myself I cannot say for sure, I've installed the split hoses myself with ease.

One final thought... I think PJ Grady has had split hoses. Not sure if he has had them made himself, or bought them through Hervey, or if we would even have it in stock. I ordered a single piece speedometer cable from him last year and he had it made himself (not from John H) but also did not have it in stock so I had to wait a few weeks. Would be worth a shot anyways though if you really want split hoses in a hurry.

Good luck.

[dmc6960]

OOOH, one more thought! You could order NOS hoses, and bring them to a local shop to have the split spliced/crimped into them! I can measure mine so you have the correct distance for each splice if you'd like.

[nullset]

Since you have all of the professional equipment and plenty of R12 at your disposal, I'm going to suggest two options...

Do you know where the hose specifically leaked? If so, it is a simple job for someone with the proper tools to crimp on a splice into the existing hose. I've seen it done on a car where the high pressure hose burst from the steering shaft.


I'm not sure exactly where it popped, but the hoses have been showing signs of deteriorating, so I think it is time to replace both of them. I'm not comfortable just patching them.



Option two are for NOS hoses, and I only suggest these as your still keeping R12. I've heard (I think from Dave Swingle, but dont quote me on that) about not having much problems replacing hoses at all even without separating the body. Some of the key points are lifting the body, not the frame, so the body slightly flexes outward from the frame. Then using a wet or soapy hose, hitting it with a rubber mallet and it pops into place. Some coercing with a padded prybar may be necessary for one or two spots but it was fully doable. Never having done that myself I cannot say for sure, I've installed the split hoses myself with ease.

One final thought... I think PJ Grady has had split hoses. Not sure if he has had them made himself, or bought them through Hervey, or if we would even have it in stock. I ordered a single piece speedometer cable from him last year and he had it made himself (not from John H) but also did not have it in stock so I had to wait a few weeks. Would be worth a shot anyways though if you really want split hoses in a hurry.

Good luck.

If I can't get in touch with John today, I may try to get the NOS hoses, or new ones from Houston, and install them this way.

Grady doesn't list the hoses on his site, but maybe I should try calling him.

--buddy

[nullset]

I finally got in touch with John. Apparently his phones are down for some reason, but occasionally working.

New hoses and accumulator ordered.

--buddy

[sean]

I finally got in touch with John. Apparently his phones are down for some reason, but occasionally working.

New hoses and accumulator ordered.

--buddy

Doing both hoses?

[nullset]

Doing both hoses?

Yeah, I think it's best to go ahead and replace both.

Also, John only sells them in pairs.

--buddy

[jawn101]

Yeah, I think it's best to go ahead and replace both.

Also, John only sells them in pairs.

--buddy

"Both" or "All 3"? Don't forget the one from the condenser to the accumulator.

[nullset]

"Both" or "All 3"? Don't forget the one from the condenser to the accumulator.

I'm replacing 2 of the three hoses, and the accumulator.

--buddy

[dmc6960]

"Both" or "All 3"? Don't forget the one from the condenser to the accumulator.

The short hose is from the condenser to the evaporator. The accumulator ties directly to the output of the evaporator then the low pressure line.

[jawn101]

The short hose is from the condenser to the evaporator. The accumulator ties directly to the output of the evaporator then the low pressure line.

*doh* That's what I meant. Buddy, are you sure that the line in question here is sound? It would be a pretty big bummer to go to all this trouble only to find that there's a leak in the one thing you didn't replace....

[nullset]

*doh* That's what I meant. Buddy, are you sure that the line in question here is sound? It would be a pretty big bummer to go to all this trouble only to find that there's a leak in the one thing you didn't replace....

Until yesterday, there was no leak. I'd pressure tested the system for quite a while before refilling it.

Yesterday, there was a loud HISSSSSSSS towards the rear of the car. Jostling the lines from the compressor audibly changed the hiss. I'm 100% sure the problem is in those lines.

I'll be pressure testing the system again before loading it up with refrigerant. I'll inspect that line. If it's damaged, or the system doesn't hold pressure, it'll be replaced.

--buddy

[Chris4099]

Yeah, I think it's best to go ahead and replace both.

Also, John only sells them in pairs.

There's a reason John only sells them in pairs now. The connectors that go to the compressor are slightly different thickness from the NOS connectors. This means you can't mix NOS/new hoses as the plate that holds them to the compressor wouldn't work right (at least not without some sort of spacer).

When you install them, just be sure to lift the car by the body, not the frame. That's what I did and the spliced hoses just slipped right in. If you lift by the frame, the body weight will make those gaps as narrow as possible and others have reported issues getting even the split hoses in.

You should be very happy with these new barrier hoses. Nothing like modern technology to show how much some NOS stuff has been obsoleted. :) I have not had to touch my system in 3 years now and that's with R-134a which runs at higher pressures and is a smaller molecule. If it's anything like other modern cars, I should be good for another 5-10 years before needing a top-off!

[sean]

There's a reason John only sells them in pairs now. The connectors that go to the compressor are slightly different thickness from the NOS connectors. This means you can't mix NOS/new hoses as the plate that holds them to the compressor wouldn't work right (at least not without some sort of spacer).
!

Yes! I was a victim of that too. I think I may have been the initial person that brought it to his attention, at the time he thought I was crazy for suggesting his hose wouldn't work with an OEM hose. I ended up adding some spacers so the clamp would hold the OEM side down.