What seal is this?

[uhhair]

Anyone have any idea what the seal in this picture is, and how to take it off? It appears to be riveted on underneath top of the doors. I have no idea what part this actually is or how to replace it but seeing as ours has red overspray and is ripped I think replacing it would be a good idea. Please help, thanks!

Alex

[sean]

No 24 here:
http://store.delorean.com/c-308-8-4-0-doorsstrutsseals.aspx

You'll need to carefully drill out the rivets, PROTECT THE TORSION BAR! Reinstall with rivets or small screws.

[uhhair]

Awesome, now this might be an even dumber question, but how the hell do I drill out a rivet?

[sean]

Awesome, now this might be an even dumber question, but how the hell do I drill out a rivet?

Start with a small drill bit and work up making sure you do not force the drill to hard because if you "punch through" the rivet you'll dent the door and have these nice little bumps running down your roof. Some have said they grind the rivets off but I've personally never tried it. Again, PROTECT THE TORSION BAR!

[uhhair]

Awesome, thanks for your help!

[DMCMW Dave]

. Again, PROTECT THE TORSION BAR!

The bigger problem (since doors cost more than torsion bars) is don't drill through the top of the roof panel. And don't dent the roof panel forcing the rivets in place.

This is a good job to watch someone else do first. Many expensive ways to screw this one up.

[David T]

Put a piece of masking tape on the drill so you can see when to stop. You do not have to go into the rivet very much, less than 1/8", so don't push hard. Safest to remove the torsion bar but you can cover it so it doesn't get scratched. Use a nice, new, sharp drill bit and drill slow and don't push hard. Once you break through the rivet you do NOT want to touch the underside of the roof part of the door. I believe the drill size is 1/8"
David Teitelbaum

[uhhair]

Yeah, now I'm definitely a little nervous about doing this. Dave, wanna help me at the Spring Social?

[David T]

I plan on being there depending on the weather. If there is time and we have enough tools I can assist. I am sure there will be plenty of others also who can help too.
David Teitelbaum

[uhhair]

Thanks Dave, I appreciate it.

Another question, what are the support buffers that come in these seal kits, and where do they go? Is this something I would have pulled off when stripping our panels? Maybe a picture of one on a car would help if someone has one? Thanks!

[jawn101]

Thanks Dave, I appreciate it.

Another question, what are the support buffers that come in these seal kits, and where do they go? Is this something I would have pulled off when stripping our panels? Maybe a picture of one on a car would help if someone has one? Thanks!

They are the rubber strip that go along the rear quarter panel under the upper louver.

[sean]

T
Another question, what are the support buffers that come in these seal kits, and where do they go?

#15 here:
http://store.delorean.com/c-311-8-4-3-engine-compartment-cover-upper.aspx

[uhhair]

Also, anyone know where the door finisher is located and if that needs to go as well? Sorry to be such an annoying little shit, I just have never done all these parts before and want to make sure I get it right. Thanks!

[tgraham]

I like to remove the old roof seals using a dremel and a cut-off wheel as opposed to a drill. You have a lot more control over the dremel and you can just sheer the head of the rivet off. With this procedure, there's no danger in slipping through and damaging the other side of the door.

I also like to completely remove the torsion bar and also remove the door strut and hyper-extend the door to give you plenty of room to get perfectly perpendicular to the door when using the rivet gun.

Travis

[Bitsyncmaster]

Are the rubber door seals DMCH sells the same as the ones from Grady?

I think someone on the old forum had designed an alternative seal. I think it was mounted on the T panel.

I'm not happy with my top seals. Maybe I just need to trim them.

[Rich]

Put a piece of masking tape on the drill so you can see when to stop. You do not have to go into the rivet very much, less than 1/8", so don't push hard. Safest to remove the torsion bar but you can cover it so it doesn't get scratched. Use a nice, new, sharp drill bit and drill slow and don't push hard. Once you break through the rivet you do NOT want to touch the underside of the roof part of the door. I believe the drill size is 1/8"
David Teitelbaum

+1

Yes, this is the way to go for drilling. 1/8" is the drill size.

Additional post-drill hints here:

You may not always get a clean removal of the shank of the rivet, in which case you'll find that a thin grinding disc on a Dremel tool will chop it off nicely, as seen in blurry photo below and noted in Post #14 above. As noted in other posts, don't punch the rivet shank thru unless you are sure it won't dent the door/roof.

Pic #2 shows exposed shanks before grind-off.

Whether drilled or ground off, the backs of the rivets will fall into the door cavity. You don't need to leave them there. Plan some extra time to fish out the back ends of any rivets that naturally fall into the gap. A dental mirror is handy for finding them. One fishing method is a flat tool to move them into place so you can recover them with an x-long needle-nose pliers.

Photos below.