Throttle cable replacement

[Spittybug]

I put off trimming my throttle cable when I replaced my stock manifold with the Peugeot 604 one with the LT-1 throttle body. Well, yesterday I decided to go ahead and remove the big loop I had in it since that was making the pedal a bit stiff. The throttle linkage accepts the same type of end that our cable has, so it was essentially drop-in.

I watched a clever technique on YouTube; thoroughly degrease the end of the cable, unwind the strands a bit and using a hole drilled into a piece of wood as a mold, melt in some silver solder (type used in plumbing, along with flux) and melt on a new "knob" on the end of the cable. Worked great and I got myself a nice new end to the cut cable! Only problem was that I forgot to slip the cable length screw barrel on first!!! DOH
:banghead:

I melted it off and tried again. Another good one, but I must have frayed the cable a bit since a couple of strands were broken. No good, when wrapped around the linkage cam they stick out and will unravel. I clipped the end again for a third attempt and of course, I'm now too short! Ugh. Time to replace the inner cable and get it right.

I see DMCH sells just the inner cable, great! Is it as simple as carefully feeding it through the inner shield plastic? Doesn't it bind on the way? I assume the engine end with the end knob on it is fixed and the pedal end gets some kind of crimp-on? Does that come with it or is that another item? I hate working on the pedal end of things since the access is tough, but I'm sure that's going to be cleaner. Has anyone done this? Advice? Hints? Thanks.

[Cory W]

I see DMCH sells just the inner cable, great! Is it as simple as carefully feeding it through the inner shield plastic?

Yes


Doesn't it bind on the way?

Mine didn't


I assume the engine end with the end knob on it is fixed and the pedal end gets some kind of crimp-on? Does that come with it or is that another item?

It's a fixed end, already there. It's a lot like the end of the hood release cable in design and function. It's been a few years, but I don't recall having to crimp anything on.


I hate working on the pedal end of things since the access is tough, but I'm sure that's going to be cleaner.

There are worse things...ever had to drill out the front TAB bushing support bolt on the passenger side?


Has anyone done this? Advice? Hints? Thanks.

I did mine for two reasons: I had water in the line (no throttle shield to start with), and it was showing signs of fraying near the end. I made sure to run coolant through the sheath while the cable was out for lubrication, corrosion prevention (as much as coolant would give) and to keep it from ever freezing again. Remove and feed the cable from the pedal end, and everything else should be straightforward for you.

[Spittybug]

I believe that my cable is not stock. Inside the hard exterior tubing (braided and spiral wound steel) is a slim red plastic (teflon?) tube within which the inner cable runs. Also, mine had a barrel shaped slug on the throttle end that neatly fits inside the throttle spool hole (no nut and bolt). It sounds like the DMCH cable comes with the pedal end knob on it and the spool end is just straight wire. If that's the case, I need to either solder on the barrel or get a cable wire stop, which is what got me here in the first place....

http://www.gokartsupply.com/img/wirestop.jpg

[Bitsyncmaster]

I pulled my cable just to lube it. The engine end is just strait cable because I just pulled the cable out at the throttle end. The engine end just clamps in the throttle spool.

[stevedmc]

I see DMCH sells just the inner cable, great! Is it as simple as carefully feeding it through the inner shield plastic?

Home Depot also stocks Delorean throttle cables. It is very easy to feed through from the engine bay.

[Spittybug]

I think you're right Steve.... Plan "A" looks to be to go to HD and buy some 1/16" wire rope and feed it through the existing teflon tube. I've looked locally to get those previously pictured wire stops and can't find any (couple places left to try) but if necessary I know that I can fabricate them with my soldering technique. I'll get a good one on the throttle end and then I'll have lots of slack to make one on the pedal end. Of course, it may just be easier to crimp on a stop for the pedal end. I assume you can buy it by the foot and not have to get long rolls?

It may not need lubricant since it is in a shield, but I may just use some of the NAPA cable lubricant anyway....

***actually, it looks like AdvanceAuto may have the stops.....need to check size.

[stevedmc]

They sell it by the foot at my local home depot. I believe I paid something like 26 cents a foot for the stuff. Measure your old cable and buy just a little bit more than you need just in case.

I ran the cable first and after I had it threaded through my gas pedal I crimped an end onto the wire.

Here is a hint for cutting the wire when you get home. Use a grinder with a nice flat disk. Be careful of course, but this will help you avoid the cable smashing into a million different directions when you cut it.

[Spittybug]

I use a Dremmel with a metal cutting disc to cut the cable. Nice and clean with no fraying. Wire cutters won't dent the stuff it's so hard. The cable I have is pretty amazing stuff; I unwound it, bent it a bit and splayed it open to let the acetone clean it thoroughly. I couldn't believe it when I was able to twist it back together again and have it come to a nice clean end as if it was never unraveled! With no effort either. Real "memory" effect.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Those wire connector things look like parts I've used on RC airplanes. So if you have a large hobby shop in your area, try looking there for parts.

[Spittybug]

Just finished. Advance Auto sells those stops in a multi-pack. I had to enlarge the cable hole a bit, but that was easy. The Home Depot was out of the 1/16" cable but had it with a green plastic shield that was easy to remove using wire strippers and some heat first. At least I know the cable wasn't dirty, frayed or otherwise compromised. I slid it in from the throttle end, straight through my teflon tubing and out it came by the pedal. I did have a little difficulty near the end, as if it were butting up against something, but I think it may have just been the final turn. A little trial and error on the second cable stop and voila. The screws hold the wire in there very firmly, but I may put a drop or two of crazy glue or JB weld in the hole for peace of mind. It feels nicer on the foot now; apparently that loop was indeed causing some friction.

Now to go fix that JL subwoofer that was only about 5 years old. The entire foam ring had disintegrated. I removed all traces and ordered an aftermarket rubber edge roll that seems to fit fine. It comes with the appropriate glue. It wasn't a cheap speaker and it sounds great, but come on, only 5 years??????