Coolant Reservoir Repair

[Jack]

Couldn't bring myself to spend over 100 dollars on a replacement just yet.
Then I remembered what someone had come up with at one of the SEDOC meetings a year or two back.
Just wrap it in fiberglass.
I didn't have much luck with fiber cloth, so I used drywall tape.
Going to put one more layer on tomorrow.

9627

[Elvis]

Are you sure you like that ?

A head gasket repair easily costs a thousand bucks.

[jamesrguk]

Are you sure you like that ?

A head gasket repair easily costs a thousand bucks.

+1

I don't see that repair offering much strength, a better, cheaper alternative, is Volvo part no 3547466, a plastic header tank which fits the delorean nicely, you need a few off cuts of rubber pipe to install it.

it won't look 100% original but it works, quite a few uk owners have gone down this route, the part only cost £25/$35 over here, got to be worth it for the peice of mind it offers

http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/cooling-system/expansion-tank-engine-coolant/expansion-tank-coolant/1009888/

[Elvis]

Or the BMW bottel with low water switch.
Here you also need a new hose.

9628

Anything is better than taping it...

Owning such a classic car is not cheap. But not expensive either.

[Spittybug]

I've got two of these aluminum bottles: http://www.sandyleong.com/ckfinder/userfiles/images/kru_vodka_water_bottle.jpg
that I'm dying to find a use for inside the car. Maybe just some good plutonium labels...... then I thought maybe they could somehow be used as coolant overflows. I bought mine purely for the cool bottle and not the vodka within it of course..... Not as good as Viking Fjord, but my huge Houston distributor (Spec's) has stopped carrying that Norwegian nectar.
:drunk:

[Jack]

I don't see that repair offering much strength...

Anything is better than taping it...

Are these concerns with:
1. The strength of fiberglass for this repair?
(or)
2. Using fiber "tape" instead of fiber mesh/cloth with the fiberglass resin?

[stevedmc]

And then when something inside the tank chips off you will have some nice internal damage to your cooling system. I would hate to think what might happen should a chunk of plastic get stuck in the engine cooling passages.

You should spend the hundred dollars on a replacement tank even if the plastic tank looks perfectly fine.

[Jack]

I've got two of these aluminum bottles: http://www.sandyleong.com/ckfinder/userfiles/images/kru_vodka_water_bottle.jpg
that I'm dying to find a use for inside the car. Maybe just some good plutonium labels...... then I thought maybe they could somehow be used as coolant overflows.

I have seen those bottles used for coolant systems with unpressurized overflow reservoirs.

[Jack]

And then when something inside the tank chips off you will have some nice internal damage to your cooling system.

http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQILYL4bo-EUtQqAmrz_XUuPgcRohH2kXpHvD8Jp6w2JYRl-VXjZpnozu-x
That is what the inline coolant filter trap is for, oh wait you probably don't have those do you. :tongue:
I got one right before the radiator and one right before the water pump.

But seriously, The thought of the bottle falling apart from the inside had not crossed my mind.
Correct me if I'm totally wrong but the coolant bottle fails either by splitting along the seem or by "exploding" due to UV damage.

[stevedmc]

http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQILYL4bo-EUtQqAmrz_XUuPgcRohH2kXpHvD8Jp6w2JYRl-VXjZpnozu-x
That is what the inline coolant filter trap is for, oh wait you probably don't have those do you. :tongue:

Nope/.

[jawn101]

And then when something inside the tank chips off you will have some nice internal damage to your cooling system. I would hate to think what might happen should a chunk of plastic get stuck in the engine cooling passages.

You should spend the hundred dollars on a replacement tank even if the plastic tank looks perfectly fine.

+1, you're already half way there with the bottle removed. The drywall tape is little more than a band-aid, in more ways than one.

The coolant bottle is one of the best-known and most notorious flaws in your car. The stainless or anodized tanks are not only safer and more reliable, but they look better too. Call it insurance, call it an upgrade, call it cosmetic... but unless you're going for full concours (unlikely that the judges would appreciate your drywall band-aids anyway :) ) this isn't a place to skimp.

[Jack]

Why do I get the feeling people are not actually reading that I'm using fiberglass, you know the same stuff that holds your ass up off the ground in these cars.

Just to clarify:
The coolant bottle had not completely failed. It had two pin holes at the seem that leaked at 10 PSI +
The bottle is not "just" wrapped in tape.
The bottle is currently encased in one layer of fiberglass resin using fiber mesh tape.
Another layer of fiberglass resin and fiber mesh tape will be added this evening.

So putting personal tastes aside, and the fact that a metal tank is usually stronger than plastic.

Does everyone think that fiberglass cannot hold 15 PSI?

[stevedmc]

Why do I get the feeling people are not actually reading that I'm using fiberglass, you know the same stuff that holds your ass up off the ground in these cars.

Just to clarify:
The coolant bottle had not completely failed. It had two pin holes at the seem that leaked at 10 PSI +
The bottle is not "just" wrapped in tape.
The bottle is currently encased in one layer of fiberglass resin using fiber mesh tape.
Another layer of fiberglass resin and fiber mesh tape will be added this evening.

So putting personal tastes aside, and the fact that a metal tank is usually stronger than plastic.

Does everyone think that fiberglass cannot hold 15 PSI?

What concerns me is the extreme temperatures the tank deals with. Put your tank in the microwave for 20 minutes and let me know what happens to it.

[Jack]

What concerns me is the extreme temperatures the tank deals with. Put your tank in the microwave for 20 minutes and let me know what happens to it.
Okay but only if you put your metal tank in yours.

[jawn101]

What concerns me is the extreme temperatures the tank deals with. Put your tank in the microwave for 20 minutes and let me know what happens to it.

A very good point here. Also, I'm not sure how you will reinforce the neck, cap seat, hose fittings... if you over-strengthen the main body of the tank, then those become the weak points. It's all the same plastic.

[stevedmc]

Okay but only if you put your metal tank in yours.

If I were to test my metal tank I would put it in the oven, but I'm not going to do that because I already know metal doesn't melt.

[Nicholas R]

Seems like a bad idea to me. This system hits 15psi+ before the cap bleeds off, and coolant temp can reach 240F+. Back in 1987 the previous owner of my car sprung a coolant leak, overheated, and seized the original engine. He had to take the car to KAPAC to get a new engine, all because of a coolant leak. The cooling system is certainly not something I would leave to chance or quick fix.

[Farrar]

http://www.popsci.com/diy/article/2003-09/smelting-microwave

[Jack]

LOL... I really did not expect to have to defined my repair to this level.

What concerns me is the extreme temperatures the tank deals with...
TEMP RATING:
Resin: Polyester (PET)
Melt temperature: 495°F (257°C)
Max. continuous use: 270°F (132°C)
Max. short term temp: 455°F (235°C)

Also, I'm not sure how you will reinforce the neck, cap seat, hose fittings... if you over-strengthen the main body of the tank, then those become the weak points. It's all the same plastic.
Sorry for not clarifying before.
The neck was encased the same as the main body.
The cap seat is not the same plastic, it is a separate part that was fused/glued/melting (i really dont know how) to the bottle neck.
The return/lower/larger hose fitting was designed with a inner metal ring, but I added fiberglass to that part also.
The feeder/smaller/upper hose fitting will be reinforced with a brass tube.

Seems like a bad idea to me. This system hits 15psi+ before the cap bleeds off, and coolant temp can reach 240F+. Back in 1987 the previous owner of my car sprung a coolant leak, overheated, and seized the original engine. He had to take the car to KAPAC to get a new engine, all because of a coolant leak. The cooling system is certainly not something I would leave to chance or quick fix.
Believe me I understand the dangers of running a car without coolant.
I had a hose bust not to long ago, but was able to pull over and get towed home.
Fans, fan relays, fan fuse(s), fan circuit breaker, temp switch, all the hose connections, and coolant tank, all add up.
Everyone should make a habit of looking at the temp gauge when you have a Delorean.
Your car is not overheat proof just because you have a stainless coolant tank.

So again, at this point I'm looking for facts on why this might not work.
The "It's not stainless so it wont work" argument has been used enough.

[jawn101]

Not sure if it's as much of a hard "it won't work" as it is a "silly risk to take, penny wise, pound foolish" argument.

The materials science may support that your repair "should hold", but ultimately what you'll get for the trouble is a bunch of time invested and an unattractive repair that only add up to a 'maybe'

The hundred bucks for a new tank and the cosmetics/assurances that come with it is money well spent from where most of us sit.

[stevedmc]

So again, at this point I'm looking for facts on why this might not work.
The "It's not stainless so it wont work" argument has been used enough.

The argument isn't plastic vs stainless. Its plastic vs metal. And yeah, I watch my temp gauge just as much as my speedometer needle.

What you have done is a temp fix. If my bottle was leaking and I was on a road trip I would apply this as a temporary bandaid just to get home. Fiberglass can be purchased at any Walmart or auto store. As soon as I could get my hands on a metal replacement I would swap that puppy.

Whenever a metal option is available for coolant replated parts I like to go that route. If there was an all metal heater control valve I would install that puppy in a second.

[jawn101]

It's also worth mentioning that plastic header bottles are widely used, even today in modern vehicles. But the specific materials in the DeLorean bottle are known to be weak. People choose to go the stainless route because they're replacing the bottle anyway, so why not. For what it's worth, my bottle is the black anodized one. It came with the car, and I could care less if it was stainless or not. What matters is that it will never fail.

Plus, Steve is a big DIY-er. If he can agree with someone panicky and anal like me who will replace a part at the first sign of weakness (or if I so much as read a thread mentioning that it might possibly be weak :) ) then that's pretty telling.

[stevedmc]

It's also worth mentioning that plastic header bottles are widely used, even today in modern vehicles.

My 94 Geo Metro has a plastic overflow tank. Frankly the plastic tank scares me as well and I will probably end up replacing it some day.

The main difference between the plastic tank on the Geo and the plastic tank on the Delorean is the Geo tank is basically an overflow container. Coolant doesn't constantly cycle through the cheap plastic container. My guess is this is why modern cars are able to survive with plastic overflow containers. Well, that and that current composites are much better than they were 30 years ago.

[DMCMW Dave]

Plastic tanks on modern cars fail too. Usually well before being 30 years old.

[Jimmyvonviggle]

I think why you are ruflling some feathers here is that your repair as a permanent solution doesn't make sense and people are questioning your sincerity. For one thing a DeLorean deserves something nicer looking than that. Also even if times are tough, 100 bucks is not alot to spend. People waste more on going out to eat. Just get a new tank, plastic, stainless, or whatever.

[David T]

If you want (and you really should) a reliable cooling system, you can't skimp on repairing it properly. Blow out the header tank and you are dead in your tracks. Same goes for the plastic and aluminum 30 year old radiator. Lose your cooling system and you take a big chance of cooking your motor. You will find out is is MUCH cheaper to keep the cooling system reliable than to rebuild you overheated motor. This is a classic case of "penny wise and pound foolish". Do not figure the temperature gauge will save you. Once you blow out your coolant the temp gauge is useless. And that can happen in a flash!
David Teitelbaum

[82DMC12]

My 94 Geo Metro has a plastic overflow tank. Frankly the plastic tank scares me as well and I will probably end up replacing it some day.

The main difference between the plastic tank on the Geo and the plastic tank on the Delorean is the Geo tank is basically an overflow container. Coolant doesn't constantly cycle through the cheap plastic container. My guess is this is why modern cars are able to survive with plastic overflow containers. Well, that and that current composites are much better than they were 30 years ago.

Well your coolant overflow on the metro isn't under pressure. It's made to take the overflow when the cap on the radiator blows some coolant by. Way different situation than a pressurized tank in the DeLorean, which needs to be as reliable as the and leak-free as the radiator. This is why I think this repair is futile and ill-advised.

Andy

[stevedmc]

Well your coolant overflow on the metro isn't under pressure. It's made to take the overflow when the cap on the radiator blows some coolant by. Way different situation than a pressurized tank in the DeLorean, which needs to be as reliable as the and leak-free as the radiator. This is why I think this repair is futile and ill-advised.

Andy

Thats why I mentioned it being an overflow tank.

[TTait]

Do not figure the temperature gauge will save you. Once you blow out your coolant the temp gauge is useless. And that can happen in a flash!
David Teitelbaum

Happened to me - my otterstat switch blew out on the freeway and the coolant all dumped in a matter of seconds - the only way I knew is another motorist waved me down and saved my engine - the temp gauge never quivered.

That said, you might also consider that by wrapping the original bottle in fiberglass it is now insulated better, It does not cast off heat as easily as before. Now the coolant in the tank has its temperature primarily controlled by the radiator etc., but the temp that the brittle plastic gets will go up, aging it faster.

If you don't groove on that, at least consider that (if I read correctly) everyone here from traditionalist gurus to the semi-disputed superhero of aftermarket-and-improvisation seems to be suggesting you save up for a proper tank. After all, you did ask for advice, not just validation, right?

[Jack]

REASON GIVEN NOT TO DO THIS:

1. It is not a permanent solution.

a. Don’t recall stating it was “permanent”.
2. It is not metal.

a. Never claimed to be an alchemist
3. Everyone agrees it won’t work, so therefore it won’t.

a. History has shown this logic to be more valid than the scientific method.
b. Surprised someone actually gave that as a reason.
4. It does not look good.

a. I know a lot of people hate the stock tank, but the design of the original tank has nothing to do with this repair.
b. It is also a little insulting/ignorant to believe that was the final look, since I clearly stated it was not.
5. It will breakdown internally and plastic shards will get stuck in your engine.

a. I am not really sure what solvents you add to your coolant, but I would hate to see the pits in your block.
b. Inline coolant filters prevent anything from entering unreachable/ important areas.
6. Fiberglass will insulate the coolant bottle causing it to get hotter.

a. Insulation does not make an object hotter or colder than the “source”, in this case the coolant.
b. Insulation prolongs the insulated environments return to the ambient temp once the “source” is removed/changed.
7. Fiberglass cannot handle the extreme temperatures.

a. Resin: Polyester (PET)
Melt temperature: 495°F (257°C)
Max. continuous use: 270°F (132°C)
Max. short term temp: 455°F (235°C)
8. The resin may separate from the plastic overtime and allow coolant to seep out. (received via PM)

a. This is the most valid reason given; I also believe that if this repair is used as a “permanent” solution failure in this manner is likely to occur.

(Again I never said it was permanent, all you bandwagons did that on your own.)

[stevedmc]

Who's name is on the title of your car?

[jawn101]

If you're so convinced that it's a great idea and not at all a whole lot of effort to avoid something you'll have to do anyway, then why post about it in the first place? If you were showing the idea to get real opinions, I think the comments speak for themselves. If you were showing it to be congratulated on the ingenuity of the fix, then all I can say is you can't win 'em all.

If the repair isn't intended to be permanent, then so be it. You say it's ignorant for us to assume that it's the final cosmetic look to the fix, which says to me that you plan on sanding/painting/whatever - which would be an awful lot of work for a leak-stop to hold you over til you can modernize the bottle. That just reinforces the notion that it's a bunch of time and effort invested in a temporary fix to avoid doing the job right later.

Will it hold in the meantime? Sure, probably.

[stevedmc]

Will it hold in the meantime? Sure, probably.

I hate to admit it but his idea might actually work for a long time. Would I try it? Absolutely not. But Bill has done stuff like this in the past and his fancy ideas work for him. Bill seems to take pride in his cheap skate methods ticking people off and it seems this guy might be attempting the same thing. I say do it and prove us all wrong.

I don't think his idea is worth the risk but it is his car. If he wants to do it and risk burning up his engine its up to him.

I don't even like the idea of plastic overflow tanks on modern cars. If I had a Delorean with a plastic tank (leaking or not) I would change it out immediately. Thats just me though.

[jawn101]

Well said Steve. And Jack, I know I've been vocal on the topic but would like to say that the intention from the start (for everyone who replied) was to *help* you. We have all had our "do it right or do it again" experiences, as I'm sure you have as well. We'd just hate to see you lose your motor to something like this.

Like Steve said, it's your car. Try it out. See how it goes. Best of luck to you. And hey, if it does work, think how much fun it will be to come back to this thread in 5 years and rub all our noses in it :)

Edit: I just went to see if fnzen still had his black bottle for sale, and noticed you posted in the parts forum looking for a metal bottle. Looks like his is gone but best of luck finding one!

[Elvis]

Save your time and money, buy a BMW or metal tank and add a low water switch
with alarm buzzer AND the LAMBDA light turning on when water is missing.

Been there with my car, been there with a friends car on a test drive - I
hate it and NEVER want to have this problem again !
In both cases there were metal tanks already installed but hoses and threads in
the VOD leaked. Now both have the low water alarm.

But if you like the adventure - go ahead, we will all enjoy a good laugh :-)

[jawn101]

Save your time and money, buy a BMW or metal tank and add a low water switch
with alarm buzzer AND the LAMBDA light turning on when water is missing.


That's a really cool idea and a good use of the lambda light.

[Jack]

...add a low water switch with alarm buzzer AND the LAMBDA light turning on when water is missing.
Is this the one you got or is there another one?
http://www.coolantalarm.co.uk/shop/index.php

[stevedmc]

That's a really cool idea and a good use of the lambda light.

Its a cool idea but I don't think Jack has the money to get that fancy.

[Delorean Industries]

Are these concerns with:
1. The strength of fiberglass for this repair?
(or)
2. Using fiber "tape" instead of fiber mesh/cloth with the fiberglass resin?

Um this idea in general...... Since everything expands and contracts at different temps this is not viable. Just get a used plastic one from someone upgrading.

[Jack]

I don't think Jack has the money to get that fancy.
Wow, well I guess we all know what kinda person Steve is.
Anyhow it's not a matter of spending money it's a matter of paying that much for that part, stainless or not.
Which is why I posted a wanted add for a aluminum tank weeks before I started this thread.
Oh course not nearly as many people read that as this thread so maybe someone will reply offering one for sale to " save my motor".

[sean]

Wow, well I guess we all know what kinda person Steve is.


I just assumed his name was on your bank statements since he knew so much.

[stevedmc]

Wow, well I guess we all know what kinda person Steve is.

The low coolant alarm is £170 (convets to 269 USD). Don't forget you will also have to pay shipping from the UK.

A stainless tank from Hervey is 124.50 USD plus about $10 or $15 for USA shipping.

Any logical person would asume someone who isn't willing to spend $124 plus shipping for a part everyone is recommending can't afford something that cost nearly twice the price.

[Jack]

The low coolant alarm is £170 (convets to 269 USD). Don't forget you will also have to pay shipping from the UK.

A stainless tank from Hervey is 124.50 USD plus about $10 or $15 for USA shipping.

Any logical person would asume someone who isn't willing to spend $124 plus shipping for a part everyone is recommending can't afford something that cost nearly twice the price.

I found cheaper alarms since then... But that's not the point, a stainless tank does not warn you when a leak has developed. Ive said it once ill say it again a stainless tank any tank for that matter, is not a magic fix for your coolant system. The temp gauge is only good for fan failure notification as pointed out by others.

[stevedmc]

Ive said it once ill say it again a stainless tank any tank for that matter, is not a magic fix for your coolant system.

I don't think anyone ever said that. Everyone already knows a carburetor is the magic fix for all Delorean related problems.

[Elvis]

LOL yeah without the fuel injection you get more space for a larger coolant bottel.
Like this ??? :-)
http://www.spassfieber.de/funpics/bierfass-im-arm.jpg


Low water alarm for $270 ????
All you need is a switch and a handfull of simple cheap parts, some hours of your spare time and the will to work on your car.

That's an example for a float switch:
http://www.mercateo.com/p/108EL-339%282d%29730/Schwimmerschalter_horizontal_Herst_Teile_Nr_RSF43Y 050QF.html?showSimplePage=NO&ViewName=live~showGrossColumn&utm_source=product-search&utm_medium=web&utm_campaign=Schwimmerschalter#cynergy3-schwimmerschalter-horizontal-herst-teile-nr-rsf43y050qf-cynergy3


The BMW water tank is also available WITH a switch !

[stevedmc]

LOL yeah without the fuel injection you get more space for a larger coolant bottel.
Like this ??? :-)
http://www.spassfieber.de/funpics/bierfass-im-arm.jpg

I believe some places also sell that bottel in plastic.

[David T]

A level switch is a good idea and most modern cars now have them. Once you go with a steel tank you cannot check the level unless you remove the cap and you can't do that when the motor is hot. Even with the plastic bottle it is impossible to see the level. What I did was to add an overflow bottle. This way I keep the header tank filled and can always see the level in the overflow bottle and can even add coolant if the motor is hot. And when the motor is cold you can remove the pressure cap and check that the header tank is full. Most modern cars also have an overflow tank. That can be plastic since it is not under pressure.
David Teitelbaum

[TTait]

Once you go with a steel tank you cannot check the level unless you remove the cap and you can't do that when the motor is hot.

Actually, you can. A little less than halfway down is the metal coolant tank with sight glass...

http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/cooling-system.html

I've been running these in two Deloreans for years - I know sometimes such upgrades can come back to screw you, but this one actually works.

[jawn101]

I was just going to mention John's sight glass config. Seems like a great idea.

[MartyP]

I also have John's sight glass coolant tank. Works great !

I think a 100$ for a 25 000$ car is well invested !

Sometimes, I just cant believe people are cheaping out with their Delorean. I just dont get it.

It's a classic, more than a Porsche or a Corvette !!! Take care of it, It's not a modified Civic !

Would you do the same, take the same risk on a 1955 Cadillac or 69 Camaro ?

[David T]

I know about the sight glass. In theory it works but in practice it is problematic. Another potential source for leaks and eventually it gets crudded up and you can't see the level. I have seen some cars where there is a plastic tube connected into the top and bottom of the tank to show the level. Same problems. I think the overflow tank not only avoids these problems, it removes more air from the system to reduce corrosion and foaming.
David Teitelbaum

[TTait]

I know about the sight glass. In theory it works but in practice it is problematic. Another potential source for leaks and eventually it gets crudded up and you can't see the level.

Agreed, these are possible. In practice however - I have the first Hervey sight tube ever produced in my car, that is about 4 years old, and another in my wife's that has more than 3 years on it.

To date no problems whatsoever.

I did remove one of the tubes a few years back, to inspect it, and it was fine. No leaks after putting it back together. Given that, if there was crud build up, I think a q-tip would likely solve the problem. I imagine John would be happy to send you another length as well.

I also use overflow tanks, but if I get a third car, I'll still get the sight tube (or a low water sensor which is obviously a great idea too.)

T

[Jack]

My repair failed after 4 months.
It split in the same spot a straight line down the top.
So now I got one of those Stainless ones with the sight glass and a float sensor wired into the door buzzer that I added myself.
I currently dont have a delay wired into the sensor, ever so often you get a buzz on fast starts or hard turns.
Dont mind it to much, sense that lets me know its working and will instantly let me know when my coolant is low or something else on the system fails.

[vwdmc16]

Now thats a good idea!

[Spittybug]

My repair failed after 4 months.
It split in the same spot a straight line down the top.
So now I got one of those Stainless ones with the sight glass and a float sensor wired into the door buzzer that I added myself.
I currently dont have a delay wired into the sensor, ever so often you get a buzz on fast starts or hard turns.
Dont mind it to much, sense that lets me know its working and will instantly let me know when my coolant is low or something else on the system fails.


Indeed, a good idea. Can you tell us more about the float sensor? Where is it from? Did you install yourself or is it part of the unit?

[Jack]

This is the float sensor I used they are all over Ebay. $10
15969
Be careful not to pull the wires very hard you can dislodge the sensor inside the 90* pipe causing it to trigger when full and not when empty.
I simply added a extra hook up to the wires on the Door Buzzer Switch.
I had previously installed two wires down the center console and out one of the unused engine harness connectors for this to be added, during my last rewiring escapade.

[David T]

Most newer cars now use a low level sensor. It is a good idea. One problem with them, especially in an area that is partially filled like the header tank, is that the sensor eventually gets all "crudded" up and will get stuck. Like most things in life there are the pros and the cons. In this case the "con" is that once in a while you need to inspect the switch and make sure it works and if necessary clean it. Most of these switches and sensors are meant to be connected to a computer so they can't handle much current. A bulb is about all you can run directly. Relays may draw more current then the sensor can handle. The low level sensor can at least give you some warning before you see the temperature gauge start winding up!
David Teitelbaum

[sydlexia]

Lots of great information in this thread. I've been putting off this upgrade for a long time; basically just due to the fact that I have a very low mileage D that's always been garaged. The cooling system is factory, and in excellent shape. However, after reading all the comments, I am going to upgrade to a SS bottle.

I am hoping that someone might be able to tell me if there is much of a difference in size between the plastic and SS bottle. My D was fitted with the Island twin turbo kit at one time, therefore the alternator has been moved to the top of the engine (see pics below) giving me VERY little clearance between the alternator and the plastic bottle (less than 1/4"). The bottle looks like it had been repositioned to allow for the fitting of the alternator (again, see pics below). I'm thinking that the SS bottle may not clear the alternator where it sits, and I may have to move the bottle brackets. Not sure if I have enough room to do so.

Can someone please provide the measurements of the SS bottle? That would be greatly appreciated. Pics would also be helpful. Thanks!

~scott

15970 15971 15972 15973

[DMCMW Dave]

Can someone please provide the measurements of the SS bottle? That would be greatly appreciated. Pics would also be helpful. Thanks!

~scott

]

The metal bottle will NOT work with the Island turbo kit without some modification at that interference point. We had one in here with one of the normal stainless bottles cut to about 3/4 the usual length. Worked fine.

[Soundkillr]

Just buy the new reproduction plastic bottle. Looks just like the original did when it was brand new, and it's modern plastics.....I guarantee that it will fit.




Lots of great information in this thread. I've been putting off this upgrade for a long time; basically just due to the fact that I have a very low mileage D that's always been garaged. The cooling system is factory, and in excellent shape. However, after reading all the comments, I am going to upgrade to a SS bottle.

I am hoping that someone might be able to tell me if there is much of a difference in size between the plastic and SS bottle. My D was fitted with the Island twin turbo kit at one time, therefore the alternator has been moved to the top of the engine (see pics below) giving me VERY little clearance between the alternator and the plastic bottle (less than 1/4"). The bottle looks like it had been repositioned to allow for the fitting of the alternator (again, see pics below). I'm thinking that the SS bottle may not clear the alternator where it sits, and I may have to move the bottle brackets. Not sure if I have enough room to do so.

Can someone please provide the measurements of the SS bottle? That would be greatly appreciated. Pics would also be helpful. Thanks!

~scott

15970 15971 15972 15973

[Jack]

1．Max Contact Rating：10W/SPST
2．Max Switching Current：0.5A
3．Max Carry Current：1A
4．Max Switching Voltage：100VDC
5．Max Breakdown Voltage: 220V DC
6．Max Contact Resistance：100mΩ
7．Working Temperature：-30℃~+125℃
8．Float Ball Material: SUS304
9．Body Material: SUS304
10．Cable Length: 25~35 cm

15974

[sydlexia]

Just buy the new reproduction plastic bottle. Looks just like the original did when it was brand new, and it's modern plastics.....I guarantee that it will fit.

Did a quick search and I'm only finding the SS tanks. Can you provide a link? Thanks.

~scott

[Soundkillr]

Its a new product, and not listed on houstons site yet. I bought one and its awesome! They are something like 100 dollars.

[sydlexia]

Its a new product, and not listed on houstons site yet. I bought one and its awesome! They are something like 100 dollars.

Thanks for the info. I will contact them.

~scott

[DrJeff]

Jack,

How did you fit the float assembly to the header bottle assembly? Did you have to punch a new hole in the upper side at the end of the tank?

[Jonathan]

1．Max Contact Rating：10W/SPST
2．Max Switching Current：0.5A
3．Max Carry Current：1A
4．Max Switching Voltage：100VDC
5．Max Breakdown Voltage: 220V DC
6．Max Contact Resistance：100mΩ
7．Working Temperature：-30℃~+125℃
8．Float Ball Material: SUS304
9．Body Material: SUS304
10．Cable Length: 25~35 cm

15974

Hi Jack,

Do you recall if the sensor's fail-to mode is in alarm or not in alarm (open circuit versus closed circuit)? Meaning, if you lost power to the sensor, or some other wiring failure mode, would you get the alarm on your buzzer?

I've seen this sort of thing in industry where you want it to fail in the "safest" position, which in the case of this sensor, would be to alarm. Then if it is not alarming, you know that not only the level is good, but all the wiring right up to and including the sensor is good as well.

[DMCMW Dave]

Hi Jack,

Do you recall if the sensor's fail-to mode is in alarm or not in alarm (open circuit versus closed circuit)? Meaning, if you lost power to the sensor, or some other wiring failure mode, would you get the alarm on your buzzer?

I've seen this sort of thing in industry where you want it to fail in the "safest" position, which in the case of this sensor, would be to alarm. Then if it is not alarming, you know that not only the level is good, but all the wiring right up to and including the sensor is good as well.

Good thinking - you'll notice DMC didn't do this in quite a few places. Examples:

If the wire falls off the brake master, you'll never get a low level indicator. If it falls off the parking brake handle, you won't get an indicator that you are attempting to drive with the brake on.

If the wire falls off the oil pressure sender, it reads over 80 psi, not zero. The test mode here is to see if it reads zero with the key on/engine off.

If the wire falls off the oil pressure switch, the light will not come on with key on/engine off(nor any other time) so you won't see loss of oil pressure. You have to notice that the light didn't go on as you start the car (who pays attention to that!).

If the wire falls off the alternator, you get the same "lack" of test mode but the light will not go on while you are driving and the alternator won't charge the battery.

[Dangermouse]

Its not the switches that are the problem

To wire switches in "fail-safe" mode you would need relays or an ECU, otherwise the buzzers would be on all the time.

That's more wiring needed and more real estate for a few more relays.

[David T]

Another reason the automakers went to computers. The computer interrogates the sensors and needs to see them within an acceptable range. It can tell if it is connected and if it is still functioning. For instance on the O2 sensor it needs to see it not only within it's correct range but it also has to fluctuate within that range. Wiring failsafe into analog systems makes things immensely more complicated and therefore EVEN MORE prone to failure! What you need to do is to actually inspect and test things once in a while. In aviation it is known as "Preflighting". It is supposed to be done before every flight.
David Teitelbaum

[Jack]

Jack,

How did you fit the float assembly to the header bottle assembly? Did you have to punch a new hole in the upper side at the end of the tank?

I drilled a hole in the "back" of the tank, on the same side the hoses connect to.
I made sure it installed level and as low in the tank as possible.
I'll post some pics in the next few days :)