Getting ready for tech day, need tool + supply advice (working on torsion bars)

[AdmiralSenn]

Hey guys. I'm packing up my stuff for the DCF tech day this Sunday and I need some assistance.

I need to either adjust my door hinges or (preferably) re-fasten my roof structure. I'm not sure if the structure is coming apart or not but I'd rather install a few bolts and secure it than mess with the hinges if I can help it. The issue is that my driver's door is too far back relative to the underbody.

Either way the torsion bars are coming out. Someone is already bringing a jig, but I'd like to know what else I need.

What size bit do I need to remove the torsion bars? I have wrenches and sockets, but I think I'll need a 1/2" drive bit for the bars and I don't know what size it is.

What size bolts/washers are people using for the roof box reinforcement?

Are there any write ups or how tos on the roof box? I looked and found before + after pictures but no how tos.

Any pitfalls or other things I should be aware of? I know that if the torsion bars are stuck in the brackets that I'm going to have a really short work session. Anything else I should be prepared for?

Thanks!

[Bitsyncmaster]

The "Allen" key is a 0.375". Get a good name brand key. Some of the cheap ones are a few thousandths smaller and it really makes for a sloppy fit.

If your brackets are stuck. Pull the T-pannel and open the door a little past vertical. Then you can let off the pressure on the bar and then the brackets just slid off with not effort. I guess under the torque the splines on the part twist a little.

[Morpheus]

Don't worry about the allen bit, I will bring mine. I just need you to bring your ratchet for the bracket bolts.

[David T]

Sometimes the anchor brackets are just stubborn. Sometimes you have to carefully and slowly work them off with 2 screwdrivers. Once you get it apart file the splines so the brackets slide on and off easily. The bit you need is a 1/2" drive by 3/8 allen and get the best you can buy. There is a LOT of force on it and you do NOT want it to twist off while you have the torsion bar cranked! If it is really hard to remove the anchor bracket it is possible the socket head of the torsion bar has split and it will be near impossible to remove. And if you do the bar will slip and unwind as soon as you get the bracket off. Inspect the allen socket carefully for cracks.
David Teitelbaum

[sean]

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1287-Torsion-Bar-Adjustment-Instructions-and-Jig-Info

[Dangermouse]

I used this as my guide with success

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1279-How-To-Torsion-bar-Panel-Reinforcement

[DMage]

One thing to check - is your roof box rusting out? No point in bolting it down if its going to need to be replaced.

Since the doors attach to the fiberglass, bolting down the roof box isn't going to do anything to your door adjustments.

[AdmiralSenn]

Thanks for the links guys. I did search for them but for some reason couldn't find them the first few times.

I'm not sure if my roof box is rusted or not, but I do have a new ominous creak when the driver's door opens and it (inconsistently) rubs on the T panel. I would rather attempt to secure the roof box and see if I still need to adjust the door afterwards.

Morpheus, is your bit 1/2" or 3/8"? And do I need extensions or just the ratchet itself? (I'm likely to bring basically all of my metric tools just in case but I figured I'd check).

I'm going to grab the carriage bolts, nuts, and washers tomorrow as well as some other miscellaneous hardware.