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DavidProehl
04-18-2012, 07:02 PM
I've been looking at this the past couple days and I'm stumped. So I'm taking it to the experts!

My power locks went out recently, and at the exact same time, my drivers door lock became inoperable from within the car. I can use the key to open from the outside, but the inside rocker is ineffective.

I removed the interior paneling to see if I could pinpoint the problem, and it looks like the rods aren't moving far enough now with the rocker (video below). Do I need to extend the rods somehow or could this be related to my power lock failure in some way?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=prUgdgOtZ_M

pezzonovante88
04-18-2012, 07:12 PM
You probably just need to extend the rods a bit. I recently had a similar problem, though mine no longer has a power system, and I found that by extending the rods there was enough leverage to fix the issue.

Edit: Try tightening the rod that you are actuating by hand at around 40sec in the video.

jawn101
04-18-2012, 07:34 PM
Bummer, bad timing that we missed the issue, eh David? If you don't have it nailed down by Saturday maybe we can take a look while we're setting up for the parade.

Edit: Have you gone through this procedure?
http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-10-8.81.html

If not, you'll be glad you did... it may fix your issue and will definitely make your locks and latches work more smoothly.

Michael
04-18-2012, 07:48 PM
Try disconnecting power to your solenoid, then work the lock with the switch. It looks like your rod is flexing under stress.

DavidProehl
04-18-2012, 08:17 PM
You probably just need to extend the rods a bit. I recently had a similar problem, though mine no longer has a power system, and I found that by extending the rods there was enough leverage to fix the issue.

Edit: Try tightening the rod that you are actuating by hand at around 40sec in the video.

I made some adjustments to these rod lengths, I'm now able to use the interior rocker and the key! I think this was working before because the solenoid was helping it the extra 5% of the way. Now that the solenoid isn't firing, it didn't have that extra help. I think I now need to figure out my power lock issue. Could be the solenoids, but it would be strange for both to die at the same time. Makes me question my door lock module.


Bummer, bad timing that we missed the issue, eh David? If you don't have it nailed down by Saturday maybe we can take a look while we're setting up for the parade.

Edit: Have you gone through this procedure?
http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-10-8.81.html

If not, you'll be glad you did... it may fix your issue and will definitely make your locks and latches work more smoothly.

Haven't gone through this procedure yet, but lock seems to be manually working now. I don't want to come to the parade on Saturday with the door in pieces, so for time reasons I may leave it be for now. When I go back in to deal with the solenoid I'll run through this process at the same time.


Try disconnecting power to your solenoid, then work the lock with the switch. It looks like your rod is flexing under stress.
I had disconnected the battery already. I was afraid of shorting out my rear view switch. Last year I helped paul_haga install a window motor on his car, and his switch didn't work afterwords. Not sure if it was a short, but I'm now paranoid about breaking it. The stress on the bar was because I was using a fair amount of force on to get any action out of the lock.

EDIT: 100th post! Woo hoo!