Missing thermostat sensor wire

[Alves]

Hi guys, quick question. In my D's engineI'm missing the wire that connects the thermostat ( to activate water pump) to the engine. Does any one have a diagram that I can see how everything is connected? Thanks

Ps. I've heard people talk about a green wire. If that's it it's not there.

[Nicholas R]

Hi guys, quick question. In my D's engineI'm missing the wire that connects the thermostat ( to activate water pump) to the engine. Does any one have a diagram that I can see how everything is connected? Thanks

Ps. I've heard people talk about a green wire. If that's it it's not there.

Hmmm.... a wire to activate the waterpump? The waterpump is mechanically driven by the v-belt connecting the alternator, waterpump, and crank shaft. The water pump cycles water when the car comes up to temperature and the thermostat opens. The thermostat is just a mechanical switch that opens at a certain temperature. There's no electricity involved.

Are you possibly referring to the coolant temperature sensor down in the valley? Or possibly the 2 plugs going to the otterstat on the driver side aluminum coolant line? Those plugs turn the radiator fans on at a certain temp. They might be green? I cant remember...

There's also a connector that plugs into the waterpump on the left (drivers) side of the pump. It doesn't control the waterpump, but it is plugged into the waterpump. It controls the cold start injector based on temperature.

Any ideas?

[Alves]

Hi guys, quick question. In my D's engineI'm missing the wire that connects the thermostat ( to activate water pump) to the engine. Does any one have a diagram that I can see how everything is connected? Thanks

Ps. I've heard people talk about a green wire. If that's it it's not there.

Ya I'm sorry I wrote this a little confusing. My father was working on the car and I was kind of the middle man in the explanation. So with my main question out of the way, what would cause the thermostat not to work other then being completely dead. The reason I think it's the thermostat and not the water pump is when i start the car I get a small amount of suction. Obviously it could be the water pump but I want to rule everything out before a complete replacement.

[Bitsyncmaster]

You may have an air pocket in the system. That could prevent the thermostat from opening. Have you bled the cooling system yet?

[Ron]

+1

Other than leaking, it is rare fo a water pump to go bad.

[Alves]

You may have an air pocket in the system. That could prevent the thermostat from opening. Have you bled the cooling system yet?

I did for about three minutes and all I got was staggered puffs of smoke. Thats when I knew there was no coolant flowing so I shut off the engine and came to my current problem.

[82DMC12]

First bleed the radiator by removing the small bleed hose on the pass side while the engine is running and letting coolant flow easily out. Then shut the engine off, open the water pump bleed screw, then open the coolant reservoir and add coolant until coolant comes out of the bleeder. Tighten the bleeder while it is flowing out and you should have all the air out. Then start engine, turn on heater, and when the thermostat opens add as much coolant to reservoir as needed so it is 2/3 full. Check again the next morning. That should do it.

[Dangermouse]

I did for about three minutes and all I got was staggered puffs of smoke. Thats when I knew there was no coolant flowing so I shut off the engine and came to my current problem.

I'm confused. Where was the "smoke" coming from? And was it smoke or steam?

It may help if you can tell us why you are looking at the coolant circuit.

Is the engine overheating?

Are you not getting heat in the cabin?

Do you have coolant in the expansion tank?

[Nicholas R]

Was this car parked for a long time? I dealt with a car once that had the EXACT same problem; bleeder valve wide open getting nothing but air. Even checked the thermostat when it was hot and it was WIDE OPEN but no coolant was flowing. Turned out that all the years of sitting literally solidified the coolant in the block and in the radiator. It took a ridiculous amount of flushing and even with all that work, we ended up blowing a headgasket. At that, looking down into the waterjackets we could see that the coolant was still solid down in the block. Lots and lots and lots of chiseling and cleaning to get it clear and coolant flowing again.

I hope this isn't your problem because if so, you're looking at a lot of work, but... if coolant isn't coming out the bleeder valve, then you definitely dont have coolant flowing, meaning there is a blockage somewhere. Our first indication was when we went into the valley, the Y pipe and rubber hose coming off the Y pipe were completely solid with hardened coolant.

[David T]

I would suggest starting with the simple stuff, like making sure the header bottle is filled with coolant. Then when you open the bleeder you *should* see coolant come out of the bleeder. I prefer to use a pressure tester to pressurize the system. It makes it happen faster. I hope his problem is not caused by what happened to you, that is LOT of work! BTW, when bleeding air you have to always watch and make sure you do not empty the header tank or you will have to start all over again. After getting all of the air out of the motor you should loosen the small hose on the top, right of the radiator and let air out till you see coolant coming out.
David Teitelbaum




Was this car parked for a long time? I dealt with a car once that had the EXACT same problem; bleeder valve wide open getting nothing but air. Even checked the thermostat when it was hot and it was WIDE OPEN but no coolant was flowing. Turned out that all the years of sitting literally solidified the coolant in the block and in the radiator. It took a ridiculous amount of flushing and even with all that work, we ended up blowing a headgasket. At that, looking down into the waterjackets we could see that the coolant was still solid down in the block. Lots and lots and lots of chiseling and cleaning to get it clear and coolant flowing again.

I hope this isn't your problem because if so, you're looking at a lot of work, but... if coolant isn't coming out the bleeder valve, then you definitely dont have coolant flowing, meaning there is a blockage somewhere. Our first indication was when we went into the valley, the Y pipe and rubber hose coming off the Y pipe were completely solid with hardened coolant.

[XZypher]

First bleed the radiator by removing the small bleed hose on the pass side while the engine is running and letting coolant flow easily out. Then shut the engine off, open the water pump bleed screw, then open the coolant reservoir and add coolant until coolant comes out of the bleeder. Tighten the bleeder while it is flowing out and you should have all the air out. Then start engine, turn on heater, and when the thermostat opens add as much coolant to reservoir as needed so it is 2/3 full. Check again the next morning. That should do it.

Where is the water pump Bleed screw a picture would be very helpful.

Thanks

[XZypher]

OK i found it its got to be the hardest damn screw to get to on my car, do I loosen it or take it out?

[Ron]

#19 here (http://store.delorean.com/c-270-1-3-0-water-pump.aspx).

EDIT: Just loosen it carefully....don't expect all of the air to escape at one time, especially if the thermostat hasn't had en ought time to open.

[XZypher]

actually I removed it before you replied good thing too the holes in the bottom of it were all clogged up loosening wouldn't have done it. The car is pumping Coolant like a mofo now it took me forever during the test to get it hot enough for the fans to kick on. So im gonna take a shower and then a test Drive !!

[DMCMW Dave]

actually I removed it before you replied good thing too the holes in the bottom of it were all clogged up loosening wouldn't have done it. The car is pumping Coolant like a mofo now it took me forever during the test to get it hot enough for the fans to kick on. So im gonna take a shower and then a test Drive !!

If that was clogged with dead coolant you can expect to find more. Especially the hose that comes from the tee at the back of the engine and where it connects to the header bottle. Start the engine with the coolant cap off and make sure you see coolant flowing from that small port at the top. It may not be a bad idea to drive the car a while and then flush the coolant again.