Crank Case Leak

[pezzonovante88]

My mechanic just noticed a bit of a leak coming from where the crank case meets the oil pan - probably the gasket. What is involved in fixing this? How long should it take?

Thanks!

[Nicholas R]

My mechanic just noticed a bit of a leak coming from where the crank case meets the oil pan - probably the gasket. What is involved in fixing this? How long should it take?

Thanks!

It's not terrible but I've heard that removing the old gasket is quite a pain because its so caked onto the surfaces. I believe the simple answer would be that you just drain the oil and drop the pan. You just HAVE to get those machined surfaces clean where the gasket goes clean otherwise you'll be looking at new leaks.

[jawn101]

Is it even possible to drop the oil pan while the motor is still in the car? The rearmost bolts look like they are blocked by the engine cradle.

Also, I've been told by many people that the oil pan gasket is almost never to blame for those leaks. It's just due to the angles, fins, and the fact that the pan is the lowest point of the motor that it often *looks* as though it's leaking. You may have leaks elsewhere. Check the oil pressure senders (gauge on right hand side of engine by the oil filter, light on left hand side) and your front/rear main seals before you start tearing into your oil pan.

[David T]

Very often the oil pressure switch for the low oil pressure light leaks and makes it look like the pan gasket is leaking. First make sure the motor is not overfilled with oil. Next look under the car at the LEFT, rear of the motor. You will see what looks like a large nut with a wire attached to the center. If the thing looks wet with oil (and the area under it) you can replace it or reseal it. The wire usually also has it's insulation all burnt off. You can cut the piece out and replace it with a piece of high temp or you can just slide a hi temp sleeve over it. It is rare the pan gasket leaks but if it was ever replaced it is possible. The crank pulley seal has been known to leak but that won't look like a pan gasket.
David Teitelbaum



[QUOTE=jawn101;56582]Is it even possible to drop the oil pan while the motor is still in the car? The rearmost bolts look like they are blocked by the engine cradle.

Also, I've been told by many people that the oil pan gasket is almost never to blame for those leaks. It's just due to the

[DMCMW Dave]

Yes the pan can be dropped with the engine in the car but you will hate yourself because it won't fix the leak.I have never seen an OE oil pan installation leak. I'm not sure I've even seen a replacement leak.

The leak is either the oil light sender, the O-ring under the A/C pulleys, or very occasionally the oil pressure sender for the gauge.

Rear and front crank seal leaks are not uncommon but they are also pretty obvious.

[pezzonovante88]

Yes the pan can be dropped with the engine in the car but you will hate yourself because it won't fix the leak.I have never seen an OE oil pan installation leak. I'm not sure I've even seen a replacement leak.

The leak is either the oil light sender, the O-ring under the A/C pulleys, or very occasionally the oil pressure sender for the gauge.

Rear and front crank seal leaks are not uncommon but they are also pretty obvious.

Replacing the oil light sender and the oil pressure sender aren't too tough, are they? How about the o-ring you mentioned?

[jawn101]

Replacing the oil light sender and the oil pressure sender aren't too tough, are they? How about the o-ring you mentioned?

Nah, all three are easy. The gauge sender is a simple pipe thread. The oil light sender is made a lot easier if you have an o2 sensor or deep socket (forget the size exactly but it's fairly large) to install it with. The O-ring behind the idler pulleys also isn't a huge deal. Remove the belt, unbolt the bracket, replace the O-ring. Might consider doing the pulley bearings at the same time if they haven't been done. Pay careful attention to what order things are installed in behind the bracket though, there are lots of fiddly little bits to keep track of.

Be aware that oil will come out from both the light and pressure sender holes when you remove them. More than you might think (but not a lot, just enough to make a mess if you're not prepared), so have a pan or some cardboard or something down and be prepared to top off a little bit when you're done.

[pezzonovante88]

Nah, all three are easy. The gauge sender is a simple pipe thread. The oil light sender is made a lot easier if you have an o2 sensor or deep socket (forget the size exactly but it's fairly large) to install it with. The O-ring behind the idler pulleys also isn't a huge deal. Remove the belt, unbolt the bracket, replace the O-ring. Might consider doing the pulley bearings at the same time if they haven't been done. Pay careful attention to what order things are installed in behind the bracket though, there are lots of fiddly little bits to keep track of.

Be aware that oil will come out from both the light and pressure sender holes when you remove them. More than you might think (but not a lot, just enough to make a mess if you're not prepared), so have a pan or some cardboard or something down and be prepared to top off a little bit when you're done.

Perfect. I'm going to keep my eye on the leak to ensure its not coming from the crankcase/oil pan. Thanks very much.