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View Full Version : Frame & Body Interior Remodel. Questions.....



GS450-Junkie
05-19-2012, 12:33 AM
Ordered some more Dynamat, so while I wait for that to come....let me ask some interior questions. I ordered John Hervey's Sound Proofing Rubber Mat Kit. Where do the smaller shaped pieces go? Anyone have pictures? Which ones are glued in place, and what did you use to secure them?

I'd like to powder coat most of the metal pieces inside the car that need it i.e. seat pieces, shifter stick, radio bracket, fuse panel, Fuel electronics panel, etc. Anyone ever do this? Just wondering if certain parts are worth the trouble, and if things like the front panel (holds clock) can be powder-coated and what they would look like when done in black or other colors.

I'd like to add some additional speakers in the rear parcel shelf, and a sub in the cubby hole. Is there anything I need to know about installation? (Never added a sub in a car before, or any radio equipment actually). I did replace the factory rear speakers with newer ones, but should I just disconnect those and leave them there...then run a pair of 6X9's instead plus the sub for better sound? Or should I leave the new rear speakers hooked up in addition to the others I want to add?

What do I need to know about headliners? Should they be put in at the same time as a windshield replacement for ease or does it not matter? Do I use glue? Never pulled one out before....

My car has always been missing the power door lock system. A little embarrassed to say, but I don't even know what they look like, what I need, what I am missing, where everything gets mounted, etc. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. I think all that stuff was completely ripped out a long time ago. So please teach me everything I need to know....and feel free to treat me like a newbie on the topic. How it works, what I need, what to look for, etc.

I bought a center console kit....anyone install one of those before? How hard is it, and do you have any tips?

The small center console cover (window switches mount in it)... as far as I know they are not available...what can I do with mine if it's all nasty?? Any options out there?

How do I install that damn metal battery strap clamp?? I'm scratching my head on that one.... Did anyone ever install like a quick release or something like that?

Where does a Joe Cool unit typically mount?

My mode switch will not turn more than one click. Will a repair kit from DMCH fix this?

What's the latest on AC panel LED's? I bought a kit from Houston about 5 years ago, and am just tearing into the interior now. I seem to remember people saying to avoid them more recently. What's up with those? I may just leave the old bulbs in there, and do the mod so they only come on with the headlights.

That should suffice for now.....

DMC5180
05-19-2012, 02:34 AM
This is serious question overload for one thread topic.


Ordered some more Dynamat, so while I wait for that to come....let me ask some interior questions. I ordered John Hervey's Sound Proofing Rubber Mat Kit. Where do the smaller shaped pieces go? Anyone have pictures? Which ones are glued in place, and what did you use to secure them?

Can't really help on this one. If I Had to guess. The small pieces go in the Corner pontoon recessed areas. The only piece that may get glued is the center one under the shelf carpet.


to powder coat most of the metal pieces inside the car that need it i.e. seat pieces, shifter stick, radio bracket, fuse panel, Fuel electronics panel, etc. Anyone ever do this? Just wondering if certain parts are worth the trouble, and if things like the front panel (holds clock) can be powder-coated and what they would look like when done in black or other colors.

The aft compartment stuff should be fine (plus) if doing black you may want to freshen up a couple engine compartment pieces that are prone to rusting. (the bracket assembly that holds the Ignition resistor, the Cross-bar wire loom support and the engine frame brace. Personally I'd avoid the radio bracket an front panel. you will likely mess up the original texture.


like to add some additional speakers in the rear parcel shelf, and a sub in the cubby hole. Is there anything I need to know about installation? (Never added a sub in a car before, or any radio equipment actually). I did replace the factory rear speakers with newer ones, but should I just disconnect those and leave them there...then run a pair of 6X9's instead plus the sub for better sound? Or should I leave the new rear speakers hooked up in addition to the others I want to add?

Can't help you here.


do I need to know about headliners? Should they be put in at the same time as a windshield replacement for ease or does it not matter? Do I use glue? Never pulled one out before....

Headliners can be done any time, no need for windshield to be out. Door headliners are held in with fur trees. Front headliner requires removing the 4 screws holding the sun-visors. Disconnect the dome light. Remove inner door seal along the headliner material and peel back from the lip. Then slide it forward to unclip the hidden roof tab. For visuals refer to the exploded view in the parts manual. The rear piece is similar. you'll need to remove the screws near the Upper seat belt attach and possibly remove upper seatbelt bolts and loosen the side interior pieces. The aft headliner slides forward to unclip it.


car has always been missing the power door lock system. A little embarrassed to say, but I don't even know what they look like, what I need, what I am missing, where everything gets mounted, etc. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. I think all that stuff was completely ripped out a long time ago. So please teach me everything I need to know....and feel free to treat me like a newbie on the topic. How it works, what I need, what to look for, etc.

Most likely the door lock unit was just unplugged and removed. Refer to relay compartment illustrations in the workshop and parts manual. Compare the details with what you have in order to see what's been removed.


bought a center console kit....anyone install one of those before? How hard is it, and do you have any tips?

Can't help you on this one


small center console cover (window switches mount in it)... as far as I know they are not available...what can I do with mine if it's all nasty?? Any options out there?

If yours is Black they might be available. Otherwise it's on the list to be remade along with the binnacles.


do I install that damn metal battery strap clamp?? I'm scratching my head on that one.... Did anyone ever install like a quick release or something like that?

I heard from another member recently someone finally figured out the correct way to install it. You may need to put a board or plastic tray under the battery in order to take up excess strap length.


does a Joe Cool unit typically mount?

It doesn't mount to anything. Typically it gets tucked on its side between the relay banks.


mode switch will not turn more than one click. Will a repair kit from DMCH fix this?

Repair kit is just the rubber valve disc, If yours is jammed up it may be inside the electrical contact part. You'll need to investigate the lack of movement by examining things closely.


the latest on AC panel LED's? I bought a kit from Houston about 5 years ago, and am just tearing into the interior now. I seem to remember people saying to avoid them more recently. What's up with those?I may just leave the old bulbs in there, and do the mod so they only come on with the headlights.

I use the kit and it works fine. I did leave one standard bulb in that illuminates the Temp control. LED's tend to washout the RED so I keep the standard bulb for color appearance. They don't make an incandescent 3400K color version of that bulb yet. I also run the headlight only mod.

SoCalDMC12
05-19-2012, 02:59 AM
What's the latest on AC panel LED's? I bought a kit from Houston about 5 years ago, and am just tearing into the interior now. I seem to remember people saying to avoid them more recently. What's up with those? I may just leave the old bulbs in there, and do the mod so they only come on with the headlights.

I had the LED's in one of my D's... the colors didn't look right, and they kept dying on me. I ended up going the "on w/headlights" route and everything works fine now.

outatym2001
05-19-2012, 11:16 AM
First. Not to sound like an ass but please stick to one topic per thread. The thread,

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?439-New-carpet-soundproofing-and-dynamat-any-tips

is about sound insulating material. Not about which speakers to buy or which parts are better when they are powder coated or what LEDs are best behind the A/C panel.

I have already posted pictures and info you seek in several threads (including John Hervey’s Sound Proofing Rubber Mat Kit). Use the Advanced Search function and it will take you there.

GS450-Junkie
05-19-2012, 05:41 PM
Yea....I did stick to one topic. MY TOPIC is interior remodel. Why the hell would I post 10 separate threads to answer all my questions when they are all related....I can conveniently put them all in one spot so they are easy to find for someone else trying to do this exact same project, with the same exact questions that I had. Doesn't make sense not to. Yea I read your thread, yea I searched it, hell I even responded in it a couple times... did you even realize that? Nuf said. I'm only looking for members to answer questions that they know about or have dealt with....I'm not asking you all to answer each one. If you don't know an answer...please don't put "I have no idea, can't help you out with that one." If that's the case, just skip that one and maybe someone else will answer it later. If it takes 25 members to answer each or part of a question until they are all answered then so be it. Second of all...your other thread isn't as complete as you think it is. You never address the question of how the mat is secured to the dynamat in the first place. Did you glue?? What did you use?? Etc. That's what I'm looking for. Even John Hervey who sells that mat kit, doesn't know where all the pieces go or how they get secured, which honestly I find kind of sad that someone is selling something that they know nothing about....but I'll leave that one alone for now.

Jimmyvonviggle
05-19-2012, 05:54 PM
Must be asshole day in Wisconsin. No need to get your feathers ruffled. I think you took some comments the wrong way.

Kenny_Z
05-19-2012, 06:29 PM
To answer your powder coat question. Keep in mind that the powder is going to flow and build up more than paint. You may lose some grain detail. Be sure to sand down to the metal on any grounding points you may powder coat over.

The headliner is easy if you are patient. The glue I used was from 3M. It is a spray adhesive. If you think you might use 2 cans get 3. I ran out (screwed up several times) in the middle of my project.

I used dawn dish detergent on my console where the switches were. I had it removed from the car. A gentle scrub brush or an old toothbrush works wonders to get the gunk off.

GS450-Junkie
05-20-2012, 12:14 AM
To answer your powder coat question. Keep in mind that the powder is going to flow and build up more than paint. You may lose some grain detail. Be sure to sand down to the metal on any grounding points you may powder coat over.

The headliner is easy if you are patient. The glue I used was from 3M. It is a spray adhesive. If you think you might use 2 cans get 3. I ran out (screwed up several times) in the middle of my project.

I used dawn dish detergent on my console where the switches were. I had it removed from the car. A gentle scrub brush or an old toothbrush works wonders to get the gunk off.

Yea, it's amazing how dirty and grimey those consoles that hold the switches get. I really tried to scrub it down and bring it back to life, but it just wouldn't budge. Must be what it's made of. It's one of those parts where you say...well, maybe I'll just cough up the dough and get a new one, but I was a little surpised to see that they are not available. I guess now that I think of it they probably don't wear out too often so not a huge in demand kind of part. Maybe it's time to look for a nice used one.

GS450-Junkie
05-20-2012, 12:28 AM
This is serious question overload for one thread topic.

The aft compartment stuff should be fine (plus) if doing black you may want to freshen up a couple engine compartment pieces that are prone to rusting. (the bracket assembly that holds the Ignition resistor, the Cross-bar wire loom support and the engine frame brace. Personally I'd avoid the radio bracket an front panel. you will likely mess up the original texture.

I heard from another member recently someone finally figured out the correct way to install it. You may need to put a board or plastic tray under the battery in order to take up excess strap length.

It doesn't mount to anything. Typically it gets tucked on its side between the relay banks.

I use the kit and it works fine. I did leave one standard bulb in that illuminates the Temp control. LED's tend to washout the RED so I keep the standard bulb for color appearance. They don't make an incandescent 3400K color version of that bulb yet. I also run the headlight only mod.

Thanks for the great response Dennis. I'm starting to agree with you on the radio bracket. I guess a new one is probably the way to go since they are available, and not too costly.
Which LED kit are you running? Houston's or did you order something else from online? I bought an LED kit years ago from Houston...one of those buy it before you even have a car kind of purchases...that should tell you how old it is. A lot of people were saying that the LED bulbs tend to burn out so I'm hesitant. I don't feel like ripping the center console out to change them frequently. I'm not sure Houston sells a kit anymore, hell maybe they've improved it if they do?

TTait
05-20-2012, 12:43 AM
Ordered some more Dynamat, so while I wait for that to come....let me ask some interior questions. I ordered John Hervey's Sound Proofing Rubber Mat Kit. Where do the smaller shaped pieces go? Anyone have pictures? Which ones are glued in place, and what did you use to secure them?

Hervey doesn't know, he just resells. If you can track down Ken K. ( of Delorean Car show fame) he actually makes the kits and lets Hervey do the marketing. Asking John will just annoy him and get you either no or bad information.

The smaller pieces go up into the rear pontoon areas, see what fits best. I used a heavy duty 3m spray adhesive, with marginal results.

I found out after my install that there is a difference between dynamat and most of its clones. if you go with a clone, google it and learn more before you put it in.



I'd like to add some additional speakers in the rear parcel shelf, and a sub in the cubby hole. Is there anything I need to know about installation? (Never added a sub in a car before, or any radio equipment actually). I did replace the factory rear speakers with newer ones, but should I just disconnect those and leave them there...then run a pair of 6X9's instead plus the sub for better sound? Or should I leave the new rear speakers hooked up in addition to the others I want to add?


6x9s are better than 4X10's, but still not so great. Search around for the thread on speakers from last summer and you will find good information on Infinity speakers all around, as well as info on subs.



What do I need to know about headliners? Should they be put in at the same time as a windshield replacement for ease or does it not matter? Do I use glue? Never pulled one out before....


Yes, the headliner material does glue down to the forms, but the forms come out of the car first. Search around a bit and you will find some good how-to's.



How do I install that damn metal battery strap clamp?? I'm scratching my head on that one.... Did anyone ever install like a quick release or something like that?


There is a photo on Herveys site that shows how it is supposed to be set up.

What others tried to express is that a lot of these topics have been covered in other threads. Some folks are happy to contribute multiple times on the same subject, others would wish you would read the other threads first. This is always a good idea because often work can get done faster than the best advice comes in - dynamat for example. I found out just after I got a competing product that there really is a difference between dynamat and others. You can get better info by reading multiple threads, or you can keep it easier by relying on just a few responses in the time you have to your thread - your call, there is no wrong answer.

jawn101
05-20-2012, 06:50 PM
Here is an excellent how-to on how to thread the battery strap. Keep in mind, though - the length of the strap was intended for the original Delco Freedom battery, which had a raised portion in the center (was it a handle? I can't remember now) - so if you install it on your typical battery now, it will be too long and you won't get it tight enough.

http://1561project.com/?page=batt-strap

DMC5180
05-20-2012, 07:34 PM
Thanks for the great response Dennis. I'm starting to agree with you on the radio bracket. I guess a new one is probably the way to go since they are available, and not too costly.
Which LED kit are you running? Houston's or did you order something else from online? I bought an LED kit years ago from Houston...one of those buy it before you even have a car kind of purchases...that should tell you how old it is. A lot of people were saying that the LED bulbs tend to burn out so I'm hesitant. I don't feel like ripping the center console out to change them frequently. I'm not sure Houston sells a kit anymore, hell maybe they've improved it if they do?

I have the DMCH DIN radio Bracket. (Not Installed yet) It is powder coated with a black crinkle texture finish. I guess you could go through the process.

I have the DMCH A/C panel LED's about the same vintage as yours. No issues at all. I kept one Incandescent bulb behind the Temp control. I do run the W/Headlight ON only MOD. Which BTW, is nothing more than breaking off the 87a spade terminal on the relay.

mluder
05-20-2012, 09:10 PM
On the battery strap - I modified a tie down strap that's semi-quick release.

I'll take some pics for ya.

Cheers.
Steve

GS450-Junkie
05-21-2012, 04:47 PM
Here is an excellent how-to on how to thread the battery strap. Keep in mind, though - the length of the strap was intended for the original Delco Freedom battery, which had a raised portion in the center (was it a handle? I can't remember now) - so if you install it on your typical battery now, it will be too long and you won't get it tight enough.

http://1561project.com/?page=batt-strap

That is a really good picture. In fact, so good I think I will post it on here as a good reference tool. In fact, I will post all 3. Thanks!

GS450-Junkie
05-21-2012, 04:51 PM
I have the DMCH DIN radio Bracket. (Not Installed yet) It is powder coated with a black crinkle texture finish. I guess you could go through the process.

I hadn't considered a texture finish thru a powder coating company. Honestly...didn't even know it was a possibilty. I'll have to give them a call and see what my options are. I'm lucky enough to have a finisher here locally in town. Was just wondering...what do most of you guys do with your parts if you don't have a finisher near by? Wasn't someone on here doing their own powder-coating with a house-hold oven at one time?

GS450-Junkie
05-26-2012, 11:09 PM
My seatbelts don't really want to retract all that well. They need some help to return back to home when not in use. Is there maintenance or an adjustment on these, or some sort of fix I can try...or do I have to replace them?

mluder
05-26-2012, 11:36 PM
My seatbelts don't really want to retract all that well. They need some help to return back to home when not in use. Is there maintenance or an adjustment on these, or some sort of fix I can try...or do I have to replace them?

Try removing the plastic trim grommets that finish off the opening in the panel that the belt slides through. I though my belts were having problems too so I started fussing with the trim pieces and they were what was binding the belt. I haven't looked much beyond that to see how I might correct it.

That being said, your problem could very well be the retractor. Mine wasn't.

Cheers.
Steve