Tie-Rod End Removal for Boot Replacement

[DrJeff]

I am trying to replace the tie-rod end boots. Both are shot, but thankfully still have some grease around the ball joints. I removed the nut from the top of the joint, but I cant get the tie-rod end to release from the wheel strong knuckle (arm from the back of the wheel hub). It is just a matter of 'persuasion' :bash: to get this out or is there a trick to it? I've left it to soak in WD-40 just to see if that helps.

Thanks
Jeff
#6313

[Dangermouse]

First question - what are you using ?

You need a ball joint splitter if you are not using one.

[DMCMW Dave]

Put the nut back on but only a few turns.

Get the biggest hammer you have.

Bear down on the tie rod end with a prybar or large screwdriver.

Hit the knuckle (the cast part where the tie rod end goes through it) pretty hard sideways. Usually in a couple of hits the spindle will let go and will drop so that the nut catches it from falling out.

[mluder]

Put the nut back on but only a few turns.

Get the biggest hammer you have.

Bear down on the tie rod end with a prybar or large screwdriver.

Hit the knuckle (the cast part where the tie rod end goes through it) pretty hard sideways. Usually in a couple of hits the spindle will let go and will drop so that the nut catches it from falling out.

+1
Toby did this at our Tech session a couple of weeks ago because no one had a pickle fork pry bar. It took more than a few hits but it eventually came out.

Make sure you count the number of turns when you remove the tie rod end so that when you put it back your steering geometry isn't messed up.

Cheers.
Steve

[David T]

He doesn't need to remove the tie rod end from the steering rack. If he is just replacing the seal, removing it from the knuckle is all he has to do. I have used this "trick" many times myself. Sometimes you get lucky and it pops right off on the first hit. You use the biggest hammer or hand sledge you have and hit it hard and fast. Clean it up and hand lube it before installing the seal.
David Teitelbaum




+1
Toby did this at our Tech session a couple of weeks ago because no one had a pickle fork pry bar. It took more than a few hits but it eventually came out.

Make sure you count the number of turns when you remove the tie rod end so that when you put it back your steering geometry isn't messed up.

Cheers.
Steve

[mluder]

He doesn't need to remove the tie rod end from the steering rack. If he is just replacing the seal, removing it from the knuckle is all he has to do. I have used this "trick" many times myself. Sometimes you get lucky and it pops right off on the first hit. You use the biggest hammer or hand sledge you have and hit it hard and fast. Clean it up and hand lube it before installing the seal.
David Teitelbaum

My mistake. For some reason I got in my head that he was replacing the boots on the rack assembly.

Cheers.
Steve

[DrJeff]

Thanks for the responses.

Mission successful... I hooked a very large pry bar over the tie-rod end, put some weight on it with my foot and then hit the knuckle. First spindle came out after about 5 hits with a hammer to the knuckle, second one took about 20 hits. Keeping the nut on the top is definitely a good idea to prevent the tie-rod arm from hitting the ground. Once I got the spindles out, the rest of the job took about 15 minutes.


1052010521
Thanks
Jeff
#6313

[gamerguy51]

Thanks for the responses.

Mission successful... I hooked a very large pry bar over the tie-rod end, put some weight on it with my foot and then hit the knuckle. First spindle came out after about 5 hits with a hammer to the knuckle, second one took about 20 hits. Keeping the nut on the top is definitely a good idea to prevent the tie-rod arm from hitting the ground. Once I got the spindles out, the rest of the job took about 15 minutes.


1052010521
Thanks
Jeff
#6313

Is that a universal boot or DMC specific? Thanks!

[DrJeff]

I got the boots from DMCH, iirc pretty inexpensive (not including shipping). The circular springs at the bottom of the boot looked uncommon, however mine were still in good condition.

[Morpheus]

Does anyone know the size of the tie rod nut? I need to get a replacement one.

Thanks!

[DMC-81]

Does anyone know the size of the tie rod nut? I need to get a replacement one.

Thanks!

3/8-24 rings a bell, but I'll check my resto spreadsheet soon...

[Morpheus]

Awesome, thanks Dana!

[DMC-81]

Awesome, thanks Dana!

You're welcome! I checked and indeed it was 3/8"-24, at least on my version of the OEM tie rod end. I don't know if they varied.

[Morpheus]

Actually, I have the DMCH repro units, which are a tad bit bigger than OEM. I just found that out the hard way. Womp womp.

Back to ACE I go... this time with the old tie rod nut for proper sizing.