Custom stainless resistor covers - interest thread

[jawn101]

Hey everyone. Some of you saw my post in the "What have you done..." thread with my new custom resistor cover. I am starting this thread to gauge interest in having some more of them made up. These are each hand made by a master machinist in my town. Each one will support a small-town family business. I don't plan to make a dime off these, I will sell them 100% at my cost from the machine shop plus actual shipping. My way of saying thanks to this online community while supporting the businesses in my meatspace.

Anyway, I don't know the cost yet. I think it will be VERY reasonable based on my past dealing with these guys. They are made from stainless of course, and water/laser cut with great precision by a fellow D enthusiast (but not an owner)

They feature a cutout for the engine bay switch so you can slip the cover on with the switch in place, a slight angle to eliminate the chance of shorting on the ballast resistor, ventilation cutouts on both sides, and attach to the bracket via small rare-earth magnets that will be embedded in the final product. This prototype just has red sharpie circles where the magnets will go. They have the DMC logo laser etched into the front. I do plan to ask if it will be possible to etch the entire logo solid rather than in an outline, but I am not sure if it can be done.

If I can get a couple of solid "I'm interested" posts, that will give me a quantity to base my pricing request on and I will do that ASAP and update the thread to make sure the interest is still there.

A few pics are in order, I think!

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=10504&d=1337489113
The cover installed on the resistor bracket. You can see how the engine bay switch fits through, the detail on the logo and the ventilation cutouts

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=10502&d=1337489092
Detail of the ventilation on the sides

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=10503&d=1337489096
Detail of the back. Note the red circles, this is where the magnets will ultimately live to secure the cover to the bracket

Anyway, post a reply if you think you might be interested in one! No commitment, just so I can get a ballpark of how many might get sold to try to get the price down.

[82DMC12]

Can you take a pic of your whole engine bay from standing back so we see how it looks in the big picture?

Andy

[andy blackmon]

looks great, yes, I would purchase one, count me in.
Andy B 03513

[jawn101]

Can you take a pic of your whole engine bay from standing back so we see how it looks in the big picture?

Andy

Gladly. I am at a show today but will get the photo and upload it later tonight.

[Chris 16409]

Very nice looking! I'd buy one.

[Jonathan]

I'm interested Jon.

[Ras12]

I'm interested too!

[ccurzio]

I might be interested in a version without the logo.

[Jimmyvonviggle]

I would also like one.

-Barry

[aludden]

That does look nice! Depending on price, I would be interested...

[stevedmc]

Maybe I'm missing something, but won't this make it difficult to get to the resistor?

[jawn101]

Maybe I'm missing something, but won't this make it difficult to get to the resistor?

It lifts right off. How often do you work on the resistor? :)

Thanks for the response guys, it's been overwhelming. I never meant to sell these at all and just wanted to share the fine work my machinist friend did. He and I are both pleased that it's being so well received! Pricing is coming soon, he is thinking over how long he actually spent and how he can speed the process up if he does multiples at a time. Stay tuned!

[DMCMW Dave]

It lifts right off. How often do you work on the resistor? :)


Actually, whenever the connectors overheat/corrode. More than you would expect, but not exactly an everyday occurrence.

That resistor block gets amazingly hot - over 200F (one of these days I'll measure one). Be sure the ventilation in your design is adequate. You may need some more holes in it. I see that the bottom is completely open, heat rises.

[Nicholas R]

I'm definitely not trying to put down this piece, as it looks great, and I'd probably be interested if I still had the PRV, but... is there any concern about this trapping too much heat in? I know my resistor used to get DAMN hot, I mean thats kind of what resistors do, lol. In the last few years I had to replace the spade connectors plugging into the resistor twice just because they got so hot (the original plastic covers even melted). I even replaced the resistor and coil and the heat was still there. Just something to think about.

I know stainless is king on these cars but have you considered like a brushed aluminum since the thermal conductivity is higher? Just a thought. Again, looks great, definitely cleans up that corner, and I know despite my heat concerns I still probably would have wanted them.

[jawn101]

Actually, whenever the connectors overheat/corrode. More than you would expect, but not exactly an everyday occurrence.

That resistor block gets amazingly hot - over 200F (one of these days I'll measure one). Be sure the ventilation in your design is adequate. You may need some more holes in it. I see that the bottom is completely open, heat rises.

It does come right off if you ever have to work on it, no tools required (all magnets) - but you are absolutely right about the ventilation, Dave. I tried to ensure it had enough with those huge slots in the sides but I've no idea if they're adequate. I don't know how I'd tell really - maybe do a couple IR thermometer measurements after some normal drives without it, and then a couple readings after driving with the cover in place? I'd remove the cover to take those readings of course.

My original design had the giant logo on the front also cut out instead of laser etched, but my friend thought you'd see too much of the wiring/resistor through the hole.

While I ponder whether this cover is even a wise idea, here is the pic of the engine bay that Andy asked for. Sorry about the glare, my garage door has windows in it and it's high sun here right now.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=10516&d=1337553186

[Nicholas R]

Lol, looks like Dave posted what I was thinking while I was making my post. :D

[jawn101]

Lol, looks like Dave posted what I was thinking while I was making my post. :D

And I love feedback from the pros (you are among them now, Nicholas... rarified air indeed) - the last thing I would want to do is saddle anyone with (or hell, run myself!) something that places appearances over safety/functionality. I will take those temperature readings I mentioned over the next bunch of drives I take and make sure there isn't a dramatic increase in heat retention before I'll stick anyone with that albatross.

Sure looked good at the show today though. If all else fails it could be a "remove before driving" piece, like a hoverboard or a pair of Nike Mags :)

[ccurzio]

Actually, now that I see it in context with the rest of the engine bay I don't really care for it. I withdraw my interest. Thanks anyway!

To each his own, I suppose. Don't let me discourage the project.

[jawn101]

Actually, now that I see it in context with the rest of the engine bay I don't really care for it. I withdraw my interest. Thanks anyway!

To each his own, I suppose. Don't let me discourage the project.

No worries :)

[Ozzie]

Nice job.
Caution, subjective opinion: Might look better in matte black.
Also, I'd suggest some holes/slots on the top for better thermal dissipation.

[jawn101]

Nice job.
Caution, subjective opinion: Might look better in matte black.
Also, I'd suggest some holes/slots on the top for better thermal dissipation.

How right you are on both counts. I sorta like the idea of black as well, but as someone said previously - stainless is king! I am thinking about where I can put ventilation in the top and may amend the design to include that.

[dvonk]

Nice job.
Caution, subjective opinion: Might look better in matte black.
Also, I'd suggest some holes/slots on the top for better thermal dissipation.

+1... not that my opinion is all that relevant (yet). :wink:

[82DMC12]

If heat is a concern maybe this would be a good piece for car shows only, especially since it is easy to put on/take off. Just to hide some wires and dress things up a little.

[mluder]

How right you are on both counts. I sorta like the idea of black as well, but as someone said previously - stainless is king! I am thinking about where I can put ventilation in the top and may amend the design to include that.

Perhaps a matte black finish overall with the logo lazer etched so the DMC shows in silver?

Cheers.
Steve

[sdg3205]

Perhaps a matte black finish overall with the logo lazer etched so the DMC shows in silver?

Cheers.
Steve

Or vice versa. Black and silver would look sharp. Good call.

[jawn101]

Agree with you guys that black and stainless would look nice. I'm just not sure how I'd get that done.

[Fluxat88MPH]

Im surprised James at DMCH hasn't contacted you yet about DMC logo copy rights. Looks good though, I made mine out of aluminum when I made mine a few yrs ago.

[jawn101]

Im surprised James at DMCH hasn't contacted you yet about DMC logo copy rights. Looks good though, I made mine out of aluminum when I made mine a few yrs ago.

I had one person mention that to me via PM and I will absolutely not use the logo if it's not permitted. It never crossed my mind to be honest, and like I said - this whole project was just supposed to be one cover for me. If it is going to be a real problem I may not be able to have these made for others, which would be too bad but sometimes them's the breaks.

If I replaced the logo with something else, what would people like to see? It sounds like some vent cutouts would be functionally desirable, I could see about getting some thin rectangular slats put in that are similar to the ones on the sides?

Edit: I just emailed James to make sure I don't do anything I shouldn't regarding the logo. Thanks all for the heads up on that. Would folks still be interested if I delete it?

[Dangermouse]

1. If it is magnetic, can you not just turn it upside down for daily life, so the opening is at the top. Then turn it right side up for shows etc?

2. If not DMC, what about

DMC-12 or "DeLorean" or
Your personalized VIN? Or
DMCTalk username :) if you are going to DCS?

[jawn101]

1. If it is magnetic, can you not just turn it upside down for daily life, so the opening is at the top. Then turn it right side up for shows etc?

2. If not DMC, what about

DMC-12 or "DeLorean" or
Your personalized VIN? Or
DMCTalk username :) if you are going to DCS?

The magnets won't have anything to grab if it's upside down, plus I'm not sure if they'd be strong enough to support all the weight like that :) I do like the personalization idea but I think that would dramatically increase the cost since they won't be able to be done in batches. And boy do I wish I was going to DCS. I can't wait to see everyone's pictures and stories when they get back though. I think that the logo will probably be able to stay, but I am playing around with ideas for getting some more ventilation into the design.

[Nicholas R]

How about .5Ω on it, haha.

I think the coolest would be if you could put vents on it like this; both functional and aesthetically pleasing:
http://www.toolstation.com/images/library/stock/webbig/98593.jpg

However I'm sure that requires some more unique tooling to create and would certainly increase cost.

[jawn101]

How about .5Ω on it, haha.

I thought about a drawing of a flux capacitor that said "DANGER: 1.21 GW" :lol:

My thinking was when people ask where the flux capacitor is, I can direct their attention to the cover. Could even remove it to show them the ballast resistor that makes time travel possible, albeit at a slightly lower voltage....

[SIMid]

You could always put one of these in .....

10619

http://www.speedcafe.com/2011/10/12/hdt-polarizer-set-to-return-to-australian-roads/

Looks good though what you have done. :)

[jawn101]

*UPDATE* - we are working on a refined design that will address the heat dissipation concerns. It will include cutouts in the face and top in addition to the ones on the side. Stay tuned for new photos when I get my new sample!

[Byrne H&A]

Hello,
Please give us a price as we will probably order two or three. Thanks, Byrne

[jawn101]

Hello,
Please give us a price as we will probably order two or three. Thanks, Byrne

Never fear, I will have that soon as well! My friend is taking all this interest in the product very seriously and wants to make sure he's making something that will really please the folks who buy them.

[Domi]

Do you think you would be able to do the whole thing instead of the cover only?
I mean like the original one?
Please see this album:
http://dmctalk.org/album.php?albumid=45

[82DMC12]

What if you made it only three sided - front and sides - with DMC on the front? Leave the top open for heat escape?

[jawn101]

Do you think you would be able to do the whole thing instead of the cover only?
I mean like the original one?
Please see this album:
http://dmctalk.org/album.php?albumid=45

I never thought of that, but if I had an original bracket with the rod I am very confident based on your photos that my guy could make that from stainless, possibly with an integrated cover. It's pretty simple cutting and folding, it would just take be a matter of getting all the measurements perfect.


What if you made it only three sided - front and sides - with DMC on the front? Leave the top open for heat escape?

I don't know how it would hold on to the existing bracket without the top part unfortunately. If you have ideas I'm open to them! I think that the redesign will address the heat question adequately though.

[Domi]

I never thought of that, but if I had an original bracket with the rod I am very confident based on your photos that my guy could make that from stainless, possibly with an integrated cover. It's pretty simple cutting and folding, it would just take be a matter of getting all the measurements perfect.


That's great news, let's hope you'll find an original bracket to improve it in stainless with the cover integrated like you said :)

[Shep]

I'm actually quite interested in this one. I'll be replacing my coolant bottle with the stainless version soon, and I think it'll compliment it quite well.

As far as ventilation, I know you said cutting out the DMC logo would let you see too much of the resistors, but seeing this picture posted by Nicholas R got me thinking:
I think the coolest would be if you could put vents on it like this; both functional and aesthetically pleasing:
http://www.toolstation.com/images/library/stock/webbig/98593.jpgWhat if you took that kind of "horizontal slat" design and made it in the shape of the DMC logo? Kind of like a Kanye West effect, letting you see through it enough to see him, but blocking enough light to act as sunglasses. Except in this case, it'd be in the shape of the DMC logo instead of sunglasses, and it would serve for both ventilation and aesthetics. Having it without a logo makes it look too plain in my opinion, but cutting out large holes is even worse. This is a nice balance between the two.

[jawn101]

I'm actually quite interested in this one. I'll be replacing my coolant bottle with the stainless version soon, and I think it'll compliment it quite well.

As far as ventilation, I know you said cutting out the DMC logo would let you see too much of the resistors, but seeing this picture posted by Nicholas R got me thinking:What if you took that kind of "horizontal slat" design and made it in the shape of the DMC logo? Kind of like a Kanye West effect, letting you see through it enough to see him, but blocking enough light to act as sunglasses. Except in this case, it'd be in the shape of the DMC logo instead of sunglasses, and it would serve for both ventilation and aesthetics. Having it without a logo makes it look too plain in my opinion, but cutting out large holes is even worse. This is a nice balance between the two.

Stand by, I think the new design will make everyone very happy! :) All I have are line based technical drawings right now but once the new model comes off the cutting table I'll post pictures.

[EdFerri]

I'm interested in one as well......!

[Rad Dad]

I have been fascinated by this thread. Frankly, I am also quite confused. You see, DMCCA years ago "cleaned up" the engine compartment in some of their customer cars. I saw - I liked - I said 'okay' do mine too. One of the things done was to 'hide' the resistors. They were moved from their present location to inside the bullhead cover. And, yes, the bullhead cover was then replaced. So, the thing that is now bothering me is the heat discussion. I have had this 'modification' on my car for over 7 years and 25,000+ miles. I have experienced no heat problems with the resistors no any problems with any of the wires/connectors under the bulked cover.

So, a serious question - - -am I just experiencing the 'luck of the Irish' or is, perhaps, the heat worry a bit of paranoia? (And, I will admit that I now worry about this a bit since I have only the highest respect for Dave Swingle, his honesty, and his knowledge of the DeLorean)

[Spittybug]

What resistors? I've been running without mine for a long time now. Merely replaced the stock coil with a modern one. I got rid of the metal rod that ran across the firewall, the silly little relay that was there and the light switch (replaced with a toggle on the light itself). Quick, easy and now very clean indeed. If I still had it all to hide, I might consider these SS covers because they do look nice.

[vwdmc16]

Exactly what I did, I see no need for all that crap.

[jawn101]

Exactly what I did, I see no need for all that crap.

But, but, but... How will I make it pretty if you take it out? :)

One of these days I'll try bypassing it and see if it feels different!

[Bitsyncmaster]

But, but, but... How will I make it pretty if you take it out? :)

One of these days I'll try bypassing it and see if it feels different!

Don't do it with the stock coil.

[jawn101]

Don't do it with the stock coil.

Right right, of course. Thanks for the warning :)

[Jeff K]

What resistors? I've been running without mine for a long time now. Merely replaced the stock coil with a modern one. I got rid of the metal rod that ran across the firewall, the silly little relay that was there and the light switch (replaced with a toggle on the light itself). Quick, easy and now very clean indeed. If I still had it all to hide, I might consider these SS covers because they do look nice.

Is there a guide to do this Spitty? I'd love to get rid of that ugly stuff. I guess this will be compatible if (I mean when) I go EFI?

Thanks
Jeff

[Spittybug]

No guide that I'm aware of, but also not hard. The key is of course to ensure that the coil purchased is capable of 12v continuous (not just at crank). No issues at all with EFI, I've been running my coil for several years. (Pertronix Flamethrower 40,000 volt, silver can). I'll check what the primary resistance is, 1.5 or 3.0 ohms.

Installation consists simply of powering the coil directly from the bulkhead connector that normally went over to the ballast. No need for that relay on the back wall and any of the rest of the stuff. All comes off.

I'll take a look at my schematic a little later and give you some more details, but on the simplicity chart, it's a no-brainer.

[Spittybug]

Here ya go.

1.5 ohm. White wire goes to Yellow bulkhead connector, top right wire. The little black box behind the coil is a voltage changer for my engine bay lights and has nothing to do with the ignition system. Look at all the empty bulkhead connections when you rip out K-Jet. I haven't repainted the engine bay yet.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Most all coils want about 5 to 7 amps of current when running or starting.

So a 1 ohm coil would draw 14.5 amps if your running (voltage is 14.5 volts). This is not counting voltage drops on the harness. So you would want a coil of 2 to 3 ohms if the harness had no loss.

But now when your starting the engine and your voltage is now 10 to 11 volts. Your coil current is less than desired.

That is the reason most cars use one resistor. Our cars use two, I guess because they could not find a coil with the correct resistance. Also to note, we do get a lot of voltage drop over our harness. It's a long run from the ignition ECU to the coil (-) which also needs to be acounted for.

[billet351]

You could always put one of these in .....

10619

http://www.speedcafe.com/2011/10/12/hdt-polarizer-set-to-return-to-australian-roads/

Looks good though what you have done. :)

OH NO !!!
you know thats what brought Brock down

[Shep]

Stand by, I think the new design will make everyone very happy! :) All I have are line based technical drawings right now but once the new model comes off the cutting table I'll post pictures.How soon until you have the new model? I'm getting antsy :biggrin:

And if I may ask, how does it attach to the resistors? Screws, adhesive, or just resting there? If it needs any drilling or welding, count me out... it's only original once! :wink:

[jawn101]

How soon until you have the new model? I'm getting antsy :biggrin:

And if I may ask, how does it attach to the resistors? Screws, adhesive, or just resting there? If it needs any drilling or welding, count me out... it's only original once! :wink:

LOL! Well I have good news. My machinist stopped by on Friday to collect my preproduction sample and test-fit the new version. The updated version has the DMC logo cut out with stainless mesh welded behind it - it's a much cooler look and will address a lot of the ventilation concerns. There are also cutouts on the top edge for further airflow.

The cover will clip to the resistor bracket with magnets. No modifications required. I did find that in my car I had to loosen the lower engine cover bolts and shift it ever so slightly left so the cover would clear one of the reinforcing splines. Didn't cause any alignment or latch problems though so that's an easy adjustment, if you even end up needing it.

Shouldn't be long now, and we'll have a price soon I hope too!

Thanks everyone for the interest and sticking with me...

[Shep]

My machinist stopped by on Friday to collect my preproduction sample and test-fit the new version. The updated version has the DMC logo cut out with stainless mesh welded behind it - it's a much cooler look and will address a lot of the ventilation concerns. There are also cutouts on the top edge for further airflow.So, any pictures and/or prices? I'm adding more stainless in the engine bay of my D (fuel distributor lines are pretty shot), and I'd like to have this on before my first showing in mid-August. I have a feeling I'm going to be asked about it, and might be taking it off to show people.

Maybe you should come up with your own name for them so you'll be the first result on Google. "Cus-less-sis-ers"? "To-stain-resist-covers"? I'm not very good at this... :hmm:

[jawn101]

OK, here are some photos of the new look. Keep in mind this is an unfinished prototype so the machining isn't as clean as it is going to be, the grain is wavy and the welds aren't fully polished, etc. But you can get the idea of the updated design.

The logo is backed with stainless mesh that allows airflow, and notice the vents up at the top as well as the sides now...

Enjoy!

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=11534&d=1341101844

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=11535&d=1341101853

[Jonathan]

Nice Jonny! Put me down for one of those bad boys! Any idea on cost yet? If you said something like $250, I'd have to reconsider. But if it was say $50-$100, I'd say we're in business!

[jawn101]

Nice Jonny! Put me down for one of those bad boys! Any idea on cost yet? If you said something like $250, I'd have to reconsider. But if it was say $50-$100, I'd say we're in business!

As I have frequently found to be the case with a real craftsman, I think he puts artistry above business and is more concerned with making a perfect product than getting me a price. I've asked and asked... and just asked again :) Stay tuned!

[Shep]

OK, here are some photos of the new look. Keep in mind this is an unfinished prototype so the machining isn't as clean as it is going to be, the grain is wavy and the welds aren't fully polished, etc. But you can get the idea of the updated design.Bloody hell, I'm in love :biggrin: The grain's wavy, I'll give you that, but I honestly don't see this unclean machining. It looks pretty damn perfect to me. Question though: I see the slots at the top, but what's that opening on the top-left? It doesn't seem to match the others in width, so I'm unclear as to what that does.

I'm pretty open to pricing as long as it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Can't exactly drive without all my limbs. :tongue:

[jawn101]

Bloody hell, I'm in love :biggrin: The grain's wavy, I'll give you that, but I honestly don't see this unclean machining. It looks pretty damn perfect to me. Question though: I see the slots at the top, but what's that opening on the top-left? It doesn't seem to match the others in width, so I'm unclear as to what that does.

I'm pretty open to pricing as long as it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Can't exactly drive without all my limbs. :tongue:

Glad you like it! The opening to the far left of the top member is for the engine bay light switch. Check out my photos in the first post and one on the second page of this thread to see how that works. Does 559 have something different there?

I don't wanna point out the little flaws in this prototype if no one else can see them.... lol. But rest assured the final product will be a real work of art.

[Shep]

The opening to the far left of the top member is for the engine bay light switch. Check out my photos in the first post and one on the second page of this thread to see how that works.Oh, duh. I forgot you posted pictures.


Does 559 have something different there?It's in the shop now, but looking at pictures I got when it was first for sale, it does indeed have the switch there. I was just a wee bit oblivious there.

[Jonathan]

Maybe you should come up with your own name for them so you'll be the first result on Google. "Cus-less-sis-ers"? "To-stain-resist-covers"? I'm not very good at this... :hmm:

We will call them... Mini-Covers :)

j/k... Maybe something like a series of products called "Wings-B-Styling" although you might have to check with Toby on that one!

Or, the Jonover Cover? (of course that might sound more like Chad's "flush capacitor"!

... the Jon-O-Cool?

... Maybe just something simpler like the "Ballast Cool"

[jawn101]

We will call them... Mini-Covers :)

j/k... Maybe something like a series of products called "Wings-B-Styling" although you might have to check with Toby on that one!

Or, the Jonover Cover? (of course that might sound more like Chad's "flush capacitor"!

... the Jon-O-Cool?

... Maybe just something simpler like the "Ballast Cool"

Haha, some great ideas there. Ballast Awesomizer? Resistomat 9000?

[DMCMW Dave]

... Maybe just something simpler like the "Ballast Cool"

E-Z Bake Oven comes to mind.

[jawn101]

E-Z Bake Oven comes to mind.

Uh oh... Still not enough cooling? Maybe I need to put a 'for display purposes only' sticker on the thing.

[DMCMW Dave]

Uh oh... Still not enough cooling? Maybe I need to put a 'for display purposes only' sticker on the thing.

My suggestion is get a laser thermometer and read the temp of the resistors, install the cover, and then monitor the temp with them covered. Also monitor the condition of the wires and the connectors/shells. It's very common to see the connections there get corroded due to the heat/water there, and cause running issues. I like the appearance but I'd feel better if it was more of a heat since (dissipator) than a heat retainer. The resistors are designed to run hot and I can't see that I've ever seen a failure.

That resistor pair normally runs hot enough to blister a finger. If I think about it I'll measure the temp on one tomorrow.

I know some folks have actually moved the resistors inside the car, I'd be interested in seeing what the surrounding area (foam, wood deck) looks like after a while.

[jawn101]

Ok all. If I can get 10 preorders, the cost per piece will be $130 plus shipping. More orders will bring the cost down. Anyone interested?

[Domi]

So, what is the final design?
The picture you had on the first page or the entire piece?

[Shep]

Anyone interested?Put me down as the first preorder! :wiggle:



Just curious, what payment method will the final product be? And how are shipping costs calculated?

[jawn101]

Put me down as the first preorder! :wiggle:



Just curious, what payment method will the final product be? And how are shipping costs calculated?

I dunno, I'd probably take PayPal or checks or whatever. I have to find out if my buddy wants me to get the entire cost for the run of 10 up front or if he'd be OK taking payments as they sell.

Shipping will probably just be in the small USPS priority flat rate box, which I believe is $4.85. I'd probably round to 5 bucks for shipping. I have to make sure the part fits in that box with appropriate padding, if I can't adequately protect it I will have to go to the next size box which is a little more expensive. International shipping (if anyone ends up requesting it) will also be at actual cost but I'll have to go down to the post office to get quotes for that. Like I said, I'm in this as a service and not to make money on the part so I'd only charge actual costs.

[thirdmanj]

It does look awesome. But I'm also concerned about the heat aspect of it. I like to see how hot it runs with the cover and without it. If its not significantly hotter with the cover I'd be interested in it.

[jawn101]

It does look awesome. But I'm also concerned about the heat aspect of it. I like to see how hot it runs with the cover and without it. If its not significantly hotter with the cover I'd be interested in it.

Absolutely and I understand. When I get my car back on the road I'll take those readings I promised. I didn't have a chance as my friend took the original unit back to rework with more ventilation as soon as I mentioned the problem to him, and I've been immobile for a few weeks.

[Shep]

my friend took the original unit back to rework with more ventilation as soon as I mentioned the problem to himSo was the last picture we saw (post 58 (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3989-Custom-stainless-resistor-covers-interest-thread&p=63054&viewfull=1#post63054)) before or after the rework?

[jawn101]

So was the last picture we saw (post 58 (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3989-Custom-stainless-resistor-covers-interest-thread&p=63054&viewfull=1#post63054)) before or after the rework?

That's "after" and should represent the finished product in design and format if not in detail and final finishing.

[Ozzie]

Nice.

I'd say this design won't generate too much of a temperature rise, the open bottom and side (and logo) vents will draw in the 'cooler' air and it will convect out through the top vents. So I'd guess that you have the heat issue practically addressed, with this design.

Caution: Opinion here ---> I can't say though that I am a fan of the design in stainless. I still think that it would "fit" the engine bay (at least mine anyway) better if it was in a matter or satin black; perhaps those who think as such can buy it and spray paint it with a high-ish heat black paint). It also seems a bit ...big-ish..(?).. Can you take a picture of the new version, installed, like in Post 15 (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3989-Custom-stainless-resistor-covers-interest-thread&p=56900&viewfull=1#post56900)?

[jawn101]

Nice.

I'd say this design won't generate too much of a temperature rise, the open bottom and side (and logo) vents will draw in the 'cooler' air and it will convect out through the top vents. So I'd guess that you have the heat issue practically addressed, with this design.

Thanks, and I hope so!




Caution: Opinion here ---> I can't say though that I am a fan of the design in stainless. I still think that it would "fit" the engine bay (at least mine anyway) better if it was in a matter or satin black; perhaps those who think as such can buy it and spray paint it with a high-ish heat black paint). It also seems a bit ...big-ish..(?).. Can you take a picture of the new version, installed, like in Post 15 (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3989-Custom-stainless-resistor-covers-interest-thread&p=56900&viewfull=1#post56900)?

I agree with you that black/stainless might look nicer, but thought I'd leave that to the individual to decide. It's really not that big, though it is 'beefy'. I think you'd have to see it in person to know what I mean. I specifically angled it outward to eliminate any chance of the cover shorting on the terminals of the resistor. It covers the whole width of the bracket, so unless I made the front edge vertical (90 degree downward bend instead of what we landed on, which I think was 115?) it couldn't really be any smaller. I will get a photo of the new one as soon as it's back in my possession!

Thanks all for the input and support.

[DMC5180]

If you straighten out or cut off the one unused terminal tab on the left side you could have just made it flat without the flair out.

[DMC5180]

Put me down as the first preorder! :wiggle:



Just curious, what payment method will the final product be? And how are shipping costs calculated?

I'll Second that pre-order :wiggle:

[Shep]

If you straighten out or cut off the one unused terminal tab on the left side you could have just made it flat without the flair out.Wait, are you talking about the engine bay or the cover itself? I don't want to cut up my D if I can help it.

Although I will say that I personally like the fact that it has an angle. It's not at eye level, so the angle helps visibility of the logo.

[jawn101]

Wait, are you talking about the engine bay or the cover itself? I don't want to cut up my D if I can help it.

Although I will say that I personally like the fact that it has an angle. It's not at eye level, so the angle helps visibility of the logo.

He means the resistor, there are 3 tabs that are parallel to the array and one that's bent at a 90 degree angle. The bent one is the one I was trying to avoid shorting the cover on, and he's right - you could bend/remove/cap off that tab and eliminate the possibility of shorts... but I also liked the angled design for exactly your same reason. :)

[Shep]

He means the resistor, there are 3 tabs that are parallel to the array and one that's bent at a 90 degree angle. The bent one is the one I was trying to avoid shorting the cover on, and he's right - you could bend/remove/cap off that tab and eliminate the possibility of shorts... but I also liked the angled design for exactly your same reason. :)Gotcha. I don't have my D right now, or I would've checked myself. :wink:

[Henrik]

I have been fascinated by this thread. Frankly, I am also quite confused. You see, DMCCA years ago "cleaned up" the engine compartment in some of their customer cars. I saw - I liked - I said 'okay' do mine too. One of the things done was to 'hide' the resistors. They were moved from their present location to inside the bullhead cover. And, yes, the bullhead cover was then replaced. So, the thing that is now bothering me is the heat discussion. I have had this 'modification' on my car for over 7 years and 25,000+ miles. I have experienced no heat problems with the resistors no any problems with any of the wires/connectors under the bulked cover.

So, a serious question - - -am I just experiencing the 'luck of the Irish' or is, perhaps, the heat worry a bit of paranoia? (And, I will admit that I now worry about this a bit since I have only the highest respect for Dave Swingle, his honesty, and his knowledge of the DeLorean)

I'm with you. I have tucked my resistors into a little enclosure and have had no problems in the Texas heat. Attaching a few "before", "during" and "after" pictures. It looks and works real well. (Oh yes, I do agree that the back board is a little on the flimsy side. It's on my list to upgrade once the persistent Texas heat goes away.)
11700117011170211703

[DMC5180]

i'm with you. I have tucked my resistors into a little enclosure and have had no problems in the texas heat. Attaching a few "before", "during" and "after" pictures. It looks and works real well. (oh yes, i do agree that the back board is a little on the flimsy side. It's on my list to upgrade once the persistent texas heat goes away.)
11700117011170211703


nice job!

[vwdmc16]

What is that box made of? ABS plastic?

[Domi]

Yes, amazing job done, that looks great!

[MML]

I'm with you. I have tucked my resistors into a little enclosure and have had no problems in the Texas heat. Attaching a few "before", "during" and "after" pictures. It looks and works real well. (Oh yes, I do agree that the back board is a little on the flimsy side. It's on my list to upgrade once the persistent Texas heat goes away.)
11700117011170211703

Very nicely done - really tidies it all up!

[Shep]

What is that box made of? ABS plastic?Looks more like aluminum or stainless based on the sharp corners and the thin material. ABS melts at 221* F, which those resistors run close to, so I doubt it would withstand something like that.

[Shep]

Is there any more interest in these, even if you don't agree to a preorder? Two DeLoreans out of about 6,000 seems way too low for something like this.

Anyways, any updates on availability and operating temperatures? If you haven't measured yet, when you drive the car with the cover on, measure the cover itself as well as the bare resistors for reference. I'm curious to know what the temperature variance of the resistors is, and how much that heat translates to the cover.

[jawn101]

Thanks for bringing this back up for me, I didn't want to press the matter if people weren't interested. I have not had the chance to measure the temperatures as I am still stuck with a non-running car for want of a clutch. I 100% will keep the promise to take some operating temp measurements both with and without the cover to see if it impacts anything. I do think I need to get at least 10 people saying they'll take one before I commit my friend to produce anything. And I need to finish clearing things up with DMC for use of the logo, which I'm working on.

[Dangermouse]

Btw, you can pay for and print off mailing labels off the USPS website for international locations if you know the weight.

I use a kitchen scale and add about 10% for inaccuracies. Saves the gas cost and time of two trips, one to get a quote and one to actually mail the package.

Those Priority Mail boxes are also good for international shipments but are very expensive especially for something light like this

[Jonathan]

Jon,

Assuming the temperature measuring data comes back okay, I would like one for $130 + shipping to Canada. Depending on timing or customs costs, etc., perhaps Dave and Julee might be willing to receive it, and then they could include it in my next box of goodies I order from them? We'll figure that out when the time comes.

When you get your car back and running, I'd like to see perhaps a few other pictures zoomed out a bit to see how it looks from a few different perspectives. Like standing back just a bit and getting a shot of the whole engine bay.

Thanks,

Jonathan

[jawn101]

Jon,

Assuming the temperature measuring data comes back okay, I would like one for $130 + shipping to Canada. Depending on timing or customs costs, etc., perhaps Dave and Julee might be willing to receive it, and then they could include it in my next box of goodies I order from them? We'll figure that out when the time comes.

When you get your car back and running, I'd like to see perhaps a few other pictures zoomed out a bit to see how it looks from a few different perspectives. Like standing back just a bit and getting a shot of the whole engine bay.

Thanks,

Jonathan

Right on, sounds good. I'd be willing to work something out with the Swingles for sure. And believe me the temperature measurements are high on my list of things to do. My kingdom for a clutch!!

[Shep]

Two pre-orders and one potential pre-order. Anyone else? I want to see these things on more D's than this! :biggrin:

Any updates by the way? It's been a couple weeks and now I'm curious.

[vwdmc16]

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c396/vwdmc16/dmc/IMG_0592.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c396/vwdmc16/dmc/IMG_0594.jpg

[jawn101]

Hey, those shots came out pretty good. That's my new prototype model, complete with spacers and magnets on the back.

Once I correct yet another minor setback with my motor, I will conduct the temperature tests. Sorry this has been taking so long, guys - I don't like it either! But I haven't forgotten the project.

[ccurzio]

Hey, those shots came out pretty good. That's my new prototype model, complete with spacers and magnets on the back.

Once I correct yet another minor setback with my motor, I will conduct the temperature tests. Sorry this has been taking so long, guys - I don't like it either! But I haven't forgotten the project.

At this point you really should just ship the most up-to-date prototype to someone for testing. You can't ask people to buy into a project when some seriously important QA tests haven't been performed and still have no timeframe for completion.

[thirdmanj]

At this point you really should just ship the most up-to-date prototype to someone for testing. You can't ask people to buy into a project when some seriously important QA tests haven't been performed and still have no timeframe for completion.

He's workin on it man, it's just a side project for him. It's not like he's workin' to a deadline.....DMCH.

[jawn101]

He's workin on it man, it's just a side project for him. It's not like he's workin' to a deadline.....DMCH.

Lol, thanks. It's true, it is just a side project but one that I will definitely follow through on. I couldn't ask another owner to risk any damage to their car for the tests. It won't be long, honestly. And I haven't taken (nor will I take) a single dime from anyone until I've proven the design and gotten the appropriate data and permission to sell the part. Thanks to all who have expressed interest and thanks especially for your patience.

[Shep]

Lol, thanks. It's true, it is just a side project but one that I will definitely follow through on. I couldn't ask another owner to risk any damage to their car for the tests. It won't be long, honestly. And I haven't taken (nor will I take) a single dime from anyone until I've proven the design and gotten the appropriate data and permission to sell the part. Thanks to all who have expressed interest and thanks especially for your patience.Which only raises the question, how did vwdmc16 end up with it on his D? Or is that actually your D? I see you're both in Sacremento, so I assume you met up, but I can't tell VIN numbers from the engine compartment :tongue:

To be fair though, he's not asking anyone to buy into an untested product. Once temperature readings became a priority, he put the sales pitch on hiatus until he got that data. Very early in the thread there was some interest expressed with the condition that temperature readings would be reasonable with and without the cover. I was trying to see if there was more of that same conditional interest, and admittedly I haven' been terribly clear on that. But it's also a good segue to ask if there's any updates after a while of no new posts. It's not like he's selling a mechanical part that is required for a DeLorean to run; this is purely cosmetic and thus not constrained to any schedule. I'd 100% agree with this concern if this were an interest thread for, say, reproduction engine blocks, but this is a part that is a cosmetic add-on rather than a factory replacement, so no one's on a deadline to get one :wink:

(If the temperature is an issue, end users can still use it for display purposes only anyways.)

[jawn101]

Which only raises the question, how did vwdmc16 end up with it on his D? Or is that actually your D? I see you're both in Sacremento, so I assume you met up, but I can't tell VIN numbers from the engine compartment :tongue:

To be fair though, he's not asking anyone to buy into an untested product. Once temperature readings became a priority, he put the sales pitch on hiatus until he got that data. Very early in the thread there was some interest expressed with the condition that temperature readings would be reasonable with and without the cover. I was trying to see if there was more of that same conditional interest, and admittedly I haven' been terribly clear on that. But it's also a good segue to ask if there's any updates after a while of no new posts. It's not like he's selling a mechanical part that is required for a DeLorean to run; this is purely cosmetic and thus not constrained to any schedule. I'd 100% agree with this concern if this were an interest thread for, say, reproduction engine blocks, but this is a part that is a cosmetic add-on rather than a factory replacement, so no one's on a deadline to get one :wink:

(If the temperature is an issue, end users can still use it for display purposes only anyways.)

Yep, that's my car in the photos. Clint and I get together a lot. He doesn't have a resistor block anymore or he'd test it out for me (he offered, I didn't ask)

I just repaired the heater valve that crippled me last night, and the system is sitting with a pressure tester on it right now. It should be running again in a few hours, and once I've done a full heat cycle and re-test of the cooling system I can get started on temperature testing. I'll work on it this week for sure.

[dmc3130]

WOW John that look awesome......That beats mine hand down. GREAT JOB....If you need a test car for test let me know.

Also whats the deal on your clutch??????

[Bitsyncmaster]

The original resistor mounting kind of creates a heat sink for the resistors. These type of resistors are rated for very high temps. Wish we had the data sheet for them. From what I remember when I was playing with a change was the resistors ran about 250 deg. F. My guess would be this new cover will not change the resistor temp much.

[vwdmc16]

Right, that was Jon's car, mine isnt that clean, or original. It was a hell of a hit from left field that his new heater valve failed, and after all these weeks waiting for a clutch to show up, it appears we chose to replace his clutch when there werent any new Valeos in the country.

[Shep]

Any updates? It's been almost three weeks :wiggle:

[jawn101]

I know - I've been having too many troubles and too many hot days to be comfortable properly testing the thing out here. We've been in the triple digits almost every day for weeks and I was having cooling system problems.

So I'm going to take Accipter's advice and make this offer - does anyone out there have a well-tuned, well-running D who would be willing to take the prototype out and make some temperature measurements? I have to say I can't be responsible if it does end up giving you problems but I don't want to keep the interested folks here waiting any longer on my account. I'll pay shipping both ways but I'll need the part back when the tests are over, as it's the only one in existence right now and we need it as a model.

Edit: I forgot that Stephen offered up his car (DMC3130 above) - so I will try and get in touch with him and see if he'll take it!

[billet351]

So.... Are they selling yet? I want one down here in Australia
Cheers Bill

[Rad Dad]

I'll repeat my earlier post: I suspect that the heat concern is a non-issue. Several years ago (2004) I had my resistors moved under the bullhead cover at DMCCA. They had already done that on other cars and had no problems. I have driven many many miles - over 10,000 and I think over 20,000 since this was done - all with the bulkhead cover firmly in place and I have experienced no problems. Short drives and cross country drives included in those miles.

I admit I am not an engineer. I can only go on the results I have experienced.

Dick Ryan, The Rad Dad
Vin 16867

[jawn101]

Hey guys. I have some bad news relating to this design. When I specced the original prototype, it was based entirely on my car. I handed the finished mock-up to another local owner who tried it on his car and those of 3 or 4 other local owners at a recent car show.

It didn't fit properly on any of them.

Turns out my ignition resistor bracket is positioned slightly differently than everyone else's. That has led me to wonder if the bracket was just slapped on wherever the installer 'du jour' decided to put it.

I am going to have to take more physical measurements on some other cars and come up with a way to address variations in the bracket installation (if that's even possible) before this can go any further. In the meantime I guess my mock-up is a 'for display only' mock-up.

The good news is that my car is working great again so once I retrieve the part from my friend, I will be able to do temperature testing at last - for whatever little that's worth at this point.

[dmc3130]

Hey guys. I have some bad news relating to this design. When I specced the original prototype, it was based entirely on my car. I handed the finished mock-up to another local owner who tried it on his car and those of 3 or 4 other local owners at a recent car show.

It didn't fit properly on any of them.

Turns out my ignition resistor bracket is positioned slightly differently than everyone else's. That has led me to wonder if the bracket was just slapped on wherever the installer 'du jour' decided to put it.

I am going to have to take more physical measurements on some other cars and come up with a way to address variations in the bracket installation (if that's even possible) before this can go any further. In the meantime I guess my mock-up is a 'for display only' mock-up.

The good news is that my car is working great again so once I retrieve the part from my friend, I will be able to do temperature testing at last - for whatever little that's worth at this point.


Hey John, I'll be in your area On Friday, I'll call you so I can drop The resistor cover off. The cover is Awesome in person, Great craftmenship. Too bad it didn't fit the other cars. :sad30: Glad to hear that your car is up and running now. I'll call you when I knnow my ETA.

[dmc3130]

The original resistor mounting kind of creates a heat sink for the resistors. These type of resistors are rated for very high temps. Wish we had the data sheet for them. From what I remember when I was playing with a change was the resistors ran about 250 deg. F. My guess would be this new cover will not change the resistor temp much.

Mine is made from thin Aluminum that i cut and bent on my table vice. Came out pretty cool. Not as nice as Johns though.

[shadowfax101]

Just wondering if anything ever came of this. I see there were some fitting issues, but that was a year ago. If these did not work out, did anyone else come up with an attractive cover?

[kajcienski]

Here is a cover that my dad made for the resistor that really looks slick. The DMC is cut out and stainless mesh put behind it. The sides are completely open as well so more of a resistor "heat reflector" than an actual cover. He might be making more but would have to have quite a bit of interest to actually produce it. It mounts to the top of the resistor plate and has a hole for the light switch as well. I'll try to get some pictures of it installed next time I take a drive. Any thoughts are welcome!

Sorry pic is upside down and a bit smudgy ;)
13955

[Domi]

Looks really nice!

[jawn101]

I agree, Matt's is cool looking. I still have to get my design reworked slightly - the issue ended up being that the lower edge on the passenger's side hits the rod to which the engine wiring harness is strapped. When we designed the cover based on my car, I didn't realize the rod wasn't supposed to be 'sagging' in the middle. Mine is pretty dramatic, it turns out. Anyway a cutout in that corner ought to address the fit issue but we just haven't had time to tackle it yet!

[Shep]

What about those temperature measurements? :wink: I wouldn't think those cutouts in the bottom would have any noticeable effect.

[dmc3130]

What about those temperature measurements? :wink: I wouldn't think those cutouts in the bottom would have any noticeable effect.

We couldn't get temp measurments due to the fact that it didn't fit any of the cars that were running at the time. As soon as John reworks the cover then we can get the temps. :clown:

[Shep]

We couldn't get temp measurments due to the fact that it didn't fit any of the cars that were running at the time. As soon as John reworks the cover then we can get the temps. :clown:Sounds good to me! :thumbup:

[john 05141]

Very basic and simple. Made from aluminum. It has been on there for a few years.
Jan