Stopped starting

[Fox2506]

I'm too far away from the car to tinker with it so I have to ask..

After a Stage 2 install years ago, the car started to get harder to start (electrical). I made modifications to the positive battery-alternator-starter wire as I was told by DMCH due to my early VIN. DMCF already updated the relay wiring I think.

At first, it was fine. But later on, the starting got finicky. I often had to hold the ignition for several seconds and then it would start. Sometimes I would even have to jar the transmission by pushing the car a bit before it would start.

Now after sitting for almost a month, it wont even start. I put a new battery in and still nothing. After several attempts, it started just one time but quickly died (because it sat too long--beside the point).

It push starts just fine.

Any ideas? I may have a 2 day window coming up to work on it, so I'm hoping to bang it out ASAP.

Thanks

[Bitsyncmaster]

So your starter motor is not cranking the engine?
Do you hear any click when you try to start it?

[DMCMW Dave]

Replace/Rebuild the starter

[Fox2506]

I hear nothing. All accessory electricity works but turning the key to start does absolutely nothing.

However, when the delay occurs: Turn key and hold for 3 - 5 seconds > then clicks > cranks

Now it just seems the delay is infinite. I am about ready to replace the starter after all this.

I'm out of the loop. Where's the best place to get a starter now?

[stevedmc]

I'm out of the loop. Where's the best place to get a starter now?

Dave is the best vendor to get a starter from and he ships really quick. I certainly don't want to take from his business so I won't tell you that Autozone has equipment capable of testing 91 Eagle Premier Starters. They should be able to test Delorean starters as well.

I would get the starter tested before replacing it though. Most part stores can test starters for free. What type of exhaust system do you have? Starter removal/replacement is a breeze with a stock exhaust. I hear it can be a little difficult with some of those fancy smancy aftermarket exhaust systems.

[Fox2506]

Stage II exhaust. I remember the starter heat shield was the toughest part to get in, and yeah I might have to remove the header. At least the starter bolts are on the other side.

How do they test it? Do they hook up directly to it, or just plug up to your battery or something?

[stevedmc]

I don't think they can test it on the car. You bring the part in and they hook it up to a machine to test it. It's pretty interesting to watch.

[DeLorean03]

I had nearly the exact same identical problem. After a while, it simply would not crank or even try to turn over. Your starter solenoid is going bad. I'd replace your starter and starter solenoid.

[Fox2506]

Thanks for all the information.

I found a Duralast at Autozone for $100 plus $45 core, locally. Hopefully this is the one you guys are talking about.

I looked for parts for my other car on RockAuto, so I looked at Premier starters there. I found a Bosch ($175), ACDelco ($145), and Pure Energy ($135), FYI. I think I'll stick with the Autozone option though.

[stevedmc]

I found a Duralast at Autozone for $100 plus $45 core, locally. Hopefully this is the one you guys are talking about.

Sounds about right to me. On another note, don't give your old starter to Autozone for the $45 core. Keep it and put it up for sale. While many of us like the Eagle starters, there are pleny of people out there that would love to buy the old starter from you. I know of at least one vendor who pays core plus $10 and shipping for old starters.

If you want to get greedy and double dip you can sell your old starter to a vendor and go searching the bone yard for an old eagle premier or volvo. If you find the right starter you can buy it cheap and bring it to Autozone for your core.

[Fox2506]

If it's an original starter, I'll hang on to it.

[stevedmc]

If it's an original starter, I'll hang on to it.

Time to visit the bone yard for a core starter. :)

[dvonk]

On another note, don't give your old starter to Autozone for the $45 core. Keep it and put it up for sale. While many of us like the Eagle starters, there are pleny of people out there that would love to buy the old starter from you.

+1, i was going to mention this if no one else did. keep it in the 'family'! :wink:

[Fox2506]

In case I have to remove my header, does anyone know if the Eagle Premier exhaust gaskets will fit?

[Fox2506]

UPDATE

The engine control fuse is melted.

Hi beam fuse melted too, but probably due to proximity.

[jawn101]

UPDATE

The engine control fuse is melted.

Hi beam fuse melted too, but probably due to proximity.

Might not be proximity. Have you checked your grounds? Fuse 7 (engine control) runs the fuel pump, not something you want to go on you.

[Chris Burns]

Either your fuel pump has died out or your CPR has died. Both are controlled by the Lucky number 7 fuse. The CPR is on the left side of the engine.

[Fox2506]

Nope. All fixed

Blue/yellow wire to the relay in the engine bay was unseated, making minimal contact. Reseated replaced fuse, and car started.

[TTait]

Just ran into a similar problem on my car. Bad ground at the starter relay socket.

Although I would expect the wiring to be more durable than the starter or its solenoid, its a lot easier to test the electrics than remove the starter itself.

For those suspecting a starter problem, disconnect the red/white wire from the starter and check for +12 when an assistant turns the key to start. If you don't get the voltage, then the problem likely lies upstream of the starter. Next check the relay base for +12 constant, +12 when cranking, and ground. Swap the relay for a known good one (high beams is an identical relay and easy to test).

It would suck to pull the stage 2 manifold, possibly the oil filter, and swap out the starter only to find out that wasn't the problem at all. The above checks will take 10 minutes and you stay mostly clean doing them.

[Fox2506]

Just tried to start it this morning after a couple of days of rain. The car has been covered up but is still moist.

It clicked but didn't start. Checked fuses real quick, as the compartment is still open. Tried again, and starter kicked in for a second.

Waited a bit, and finally started.

Something must have just been wet. Any idea what it could be? Otherwise the car continues to start just fine after fixing that plug.

Edit: What I'm asking is; what would be notorious for getting wet and not working, regarding the starter?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Just tried to start it this morning after a couple of days of rain. The car has been covered up but is still moist.

It clicked but didn't start. Checked fuses real quick, as the compartment is still open. Tried again, and starter kicked in for a second.

Waited a bit, and finally started.

Something must have just been wet. Any idea what it could be? Otherwise the car continues to start just fine after fixing that plug.

Edit: What I'm asking is; what would be notorious for getting wet and not working, regarding the starter?

Not much would be sensitive to moisture. How old is your battery? Make sure the battery connections are tight.

[David T]

Sounds like it could be a bad connection or possibly a bad battery. Check all of the "big" connections and have the battery load tested. It could also be the starter (worn brushes), or a worn out solenoid. If the car was ever flooded it could have gotten to the starter, it is low enough.
David Teitelbaum






Not much would be sensitive to moisture. How old is your battery? Make sure the battery connections are tight.

[Fox2506]

All tight, new battery. More recently, it's been dry and starting fine. Again, it only had trouble when wet.