What receiver-dryer should 2638 have? Also, AC question.

[DeLorean]

So I an looking to replace the receiver dryer & orifice tube on 2638, - I have the early type receiver dryer with the outlet on the bottom of the unit. Should I replace this unit with the same type unit (special-T auto has it for $100) - or is there something else I can do that is an upgrade? Also, where is the orifice tube located on my car?

Oh, also seems like my selector switch is leaking... I guess I should replace this while I'm at it.

[sdg3205]

I just replaced these. If you replace with a DMC unit, you'll need an adapter hose. The orifice tube is located between the condenser and the evaporator line, so if you unscrew the hose that runs to the evaporator (usually right up close to the left (rear) side of the dryer you'll see it poking out.

[Nicholas R]

If you change out the low pressure AC line, you can get the late style hose and use the late style accumulator. Something to consider if you think you may be replacing your lines in the future.

I did this last summer on 1643. During my second evaporator replacement :mad: (some evaporators aren't as good as others), I was also changing both of the AC lines. I knew I also wanted to replace the accumulator so I went with the late style. The old style accumulator is very expensive and hard to come by. The new style is cheep and is available at autozone if you know how to ask for it.

A/C accumulator from a 1986 Corvette:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Everco-A-C-Accumulator/1986-Chevrolet-Corvette/_/N-ij0ktZ8ii22?itemIdentifier=403220_146681_0_
http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/f11/33177/image/4/

I believe you also use the same vehicle to buy low pressure switches at autozone:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Santech-A-C-Switch/1986-Chevrolet-Corvette/_/N-ij0ktZ91t6l?itemIdentifier=157503_311178_0_
http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/ste/MT0207/image/4/

Orfice tubes:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Santech-A-C-Orifice-Tube/1986-Chevrolet-Corvette/_/N-ij0ktZ91ttx?itemIdentifier=157826_270296_0_
http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/ste/MT0097-1/image/4/

And variable orfice tubes:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Santech-A-C-Orifice-Tube/1986-Chevrolet-Corvette/_/N-ij0ktZ91ttx?itemIdentifier=320751_270315_0_
http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/ste/MT0631/image/4/

[DeLorean]

Ok, so in order to use the A/C accumulator from a 1986 Corvette, I need to change the low pressure hose. Which one do I need to use from what vender, this one?

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/ac-hub-assembly.jpg

and then It should work? The set up I have looks exactly like this-

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/AC-ORIGINAL_SETUP.jpg

but adding the AC hub assembly will I end up with 2 low pressure switches, or is it a high pressure / low pressure switch now, and I need to re-wire from the existing switch? Also, will I need to replace all the other hoses too or are the fittings the same? Also, split Vs continuous hoses?

[jawn101]

Ok, so in order to use the A/C accumulator from a 1986 Corvette, I need to change the low pressure hose. Which one do I need to use from what vender, this one?

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/ac-hub-assembly.jpg

and then It should work? The set up I have looks exactly like this-

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/AC-ORIGINAL_SETUP.jpg

but adding the AC hub assembly will I end up with 2 low pressure switches, or is it a high pressure / low pressure switch now, and I need to re-wire from the existing switch? Also, will I need to replace all the other hoses too or are the fittings the same? Also, split Vs continuous hoses?

Adding the hub will give you a high and a low pressure switch. Wiring changes are minimal I think, you just have to hook the same connector to both switches and they handle the rest, just measuring pressure and opening the circuit if it goes out of spec. I don't know for sure if there is a loose connector in the harness or if you have to make your own jumper.

Split hoses unless you want to lift the body off the frame. That vendor's hoses are very nice quality.

The hub assembly isn't part of the hose that needs to be replaced to accomodate the new accumulator. If you're doing one I'd just do all three since the system will be open anyway and it will save you the trouble down the line if you decide you need the others for some reason. You need to replace the line from the compressor to the accumulator to accomodate the new style. Then you have one from the compressor to the condenser, and the short one from the condenser to the evaporator. I don't recall 100% but I think the hub assembly hose replaces the hose from the condenser to evaporator, which isn't *required* for your accumulator replacement. But it might be a good idea. I didn't add one when I did my system and I wish I had, just for the peace of mind of having a high pressure switch.

Look at the parts diagram: http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/ac-parts.jpg

Also: I don't mean to start another holy war on A/C hose replacement. Replace what you think you need to. But the fact is that the single old hose won't fit the new style accumulator. If you think your hoses are good you will probably save money just buying a replacement old-style accumulator. Why are you replacing just the accumulator, anyway?

[82DMC12]

When you install a high pressure hub on a later car, what happens to this?

http://img.tapatalk.com/a6fae408-b460-2a6f.jpg

The hub only has one switch in it and a blow-off valve (I think that's what it is)

Andy

[82DMC12]

OK not trying to thread-jack but I'm really confused with a similar situation.

11596 and 11114 are similar cars in that they have the later accumulator. There is one switch on the accumulator, I think that's the low pressure/cycling switch.

I have the high pressure hub as pictured above. It has one switch on it with a relief valve.

The evaporator to condenser hose is what the high pressure hub (with included hose) replaces, right? If so, how is it wired up?

Then, what happens to the switch at the base of the condenser? Isn't that the high pressure switch?

So on these cars there is a switch on the accumulator and a switch on the condenser. Do I need to buy a low pressure switch to connect to the accumulator, and connect the high press switch wires to the hub switch?

Very confusing.

Andy

[jawn101]

OK not trying to thread-jack but I'm really confused with a similar situation.

11596 and 11114 are similar cars in that they have the later accumulator. There is one switch on the accumulator, I think that's the low pressure/cycling switch.

I have the high pressure hub as pictured above. It has one switch on it with a relief valve.

The evaporator to condenser hose is what the high pressure hub (with included hose) replaces, right? If so, how is it wired up?

Then, what happens to the switch at the base of the condenser? Isn't that the high pressure switch?

So on these cars there is a switch on the accumulator and a switch on the condenser. Do I need to buy a low pressure switch to connect to the accumulator, and connect the high press switch wires to the hub switch?

Very confusing.

Andy

I'm also confused... now :) I have an early-vin system, and there is only one switch. The low pressure switch is the one in the accumulator. So you have three switches?

The way I understood the later systems is they have the low pressure switch that shuts off the compressor/fans if the low side gets too low (prevents icing the system), the high pressure switch that shuts off the compressor of the high side gets too high (prevents bursting hoses or other components), and the pop-off valve that acts as a backup to release pressure in case the switches are inoperative for whatever reason.

I just checked the parts diagram again and there's only 2 switches in the stock system; the high and low pressure switches:

http://store.delorean.com/c-303-7-2-0-refrigerative-system.aspx - #26 and #39

Edit: I understand what's going on now. The high pressure hub that the vendor in question sells is a *replacement* for your assembly between the condenser and evaporator with the pop off valve and the high pressure switch. The advantage to this new one is the removable/repairable modular design and the refrigerant sight glass. It's a good retrofit option for early VIN systems with no high pressure hub like mine and possibly OP's. It would also be a viable replacement if there's something wrong with your high pressure system. But it's a replacement not an addition, so if you installed it you'd remove the item you posted the picture of (#42 on the parts diagram) and use the new hub instead.

[82DMC12]

Sorry, there are only 2 switches - one on accumulator and one at base of condenser. Dmc6960 just told me the high pressure hub replaces the short hose and the switch /blowoff on the condenser. I will have to run the high pressure wires over to the new hub when I install it.

[DMCMW Dave]

Very confusing.
Andy

Let's try this. There are four configurations. Let's call it "Very Early", "Early", "Middle", "Late"

ALL versions have the low pressure switch screwed to the accumulator. This never moves.

Very Early (500s, through low 1000s) - Uses the accumulator with the outlet at the bottom. No cross in the crossover hose next to the accumulator (Feeds the orifice tube) . No high-pressure switch and no blow-off valve. If the system gets plugged, something blows up.

Early (up to sometime in the 2000s) - Uses the accumulator with the outlet at the bottom. Adds the cross in the crossover hose next to the accumulator (Feeds the orifice tube) with the high pressure switch and the blow-off valve.

Middle (the rest of the 81s)- Uses the accumulator with the outlet at the side. Same crossover configuration as "Early"

Late (82 and 83 but not necessarily at the exact 82 model changeover)- Uses the accumulator with the outlet at the side. No cross next to the accumulator. Has an aluminum block at the condenser OUTLET with a high pressure switch and blow-off valve.

There are exceptions as many cars have been converted from early to late setups. It is possible to replace the crossover cross-type hose with a late/very early straight hose and completely lose the high pressure switch and blowoff valve, so it would look like the very early config.

[jawn101]

And lucky #2100, which should fall in "early" gets the "very, very early with no safety... something blows up" edition :)

[DMCMW Dave]

And lucky #2100, which should fall in "early" gets the "very, very early with no safety... something blows up" edition :)

Like I said - there is no hard and fast cutoff on these changes, and anything can be field-modified. I think the folks in the factory tended to install whatever was in stock on whatever day. . . .

[82DMC12]

Excellent info Dave. Good to have a comparison all in one place. Now I know what I am dealing with.

[Nicholas R]

Wow, and here I thought it was just "early" and "late". Definitely good info to know.

[painterdave72]

Dave my car has this and it is an august of 82. .vin 15275...

[DMCMW Dave]

Dave my car has this and it is an august of 82. .vin 15275...

Has which???

[Morpheus]

Reviving an old thread...

So is there an established procedure (official or otherwise) for converting a VERY EARLY car with no high pressure switch and no "cross" or "hub" to the later style system that includes these safety items? Already converted to R134a but Hoses, Accumulator, Compressor and Condenser are being replaced, which is basically the whole system sans Evaporator. If I'm going to invest this much into the AC system, I'd like to protect that investment as much as possible if I can.

Is the connector to the HP switch available separately? How would one wire the new connection up and fabricate a new harness?

[content22207_2]

If you don't want to replace all the front side plumbing and fixtures, just put one of these on the high side charging port: http://nostalgicac.com/oil-flush-switches/ac-pressure-switch/binary-switch-w-r-134a-discharge-port-7-16.html

Tee accepts standard 1/8 NPT switches if you want to use a high pressure only switch rather than the supplied binary switch. Any industrial supplier should sell a suitable one.

Use bullet connectors to wire the switch in between the harness connector and the compressor clutch.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

If you don't want to replace all the front side plumbing and fixtures, just put one of these on the high side charging port: http://nostalgicac.com/oil-flush-switches/ac-pressure-switch/binary-switch-w-r-134a-discharge-port-7-16.html


Dang, I wish I'd known about that part when I was putting mine back together. I got the high pressure hub (switch, relief valve, & sight glass) from SpecialT along with the three hoses and accumulator, but couldn't figure out a way to make the hub fit in the wheel well where it was supposed to go. I ended up moving it to the other end of the hose. The sight glass is now totally useless since it's facing straight up behind the condenser. Ha! Oh, well. The a/c works... or worked... at least in theory.

[Bitsyncmaster]

The sight glass is useless anyway with an orifice type AC system. Well I guess it could tell you if your system is empty or not but not when your low on charge.

[David T]

If there was a sight glass it could be helpful to charge the system, it would bubble when the compressor cycles. One big draw-back with a sight glass, you cannot tell an empty system from a full one, all you can see in a sight glass is bubbles and there won't be bubbles in an empty system.

[DMC-81]

Ok, so in order to use the A/C accumulator from a 1986 Corvette, I need to change the low pressure hose. Which one do I need to use from what vender, this one?

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/ac-hub-assembly.jpg

and then It should work? The set up I have looks exactly like this-

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/AC-ORIGINAL_SETUP.jpg

but adding the AC hub assembly will I end up with 2 low pressure switches, or is it a high pressure / low pressure switch now, and I need to re-wire from the existing switch? Also, will I need to replace all the other hoses too or are the fittings the same? Also, split Vs continuous hoses?

As I read this informative thread, I have a question: Is it only Special-T/DAP that has the earlier accumulator? If so, does it cross to another application (like the later one does to the Corvette), or is it either old stock or another unit that Hervey has modified to fit? In any case, for anyone who has bought it, does it fit? How do you like it? Any problems? Etc.


Thanks!

[Andrew]

As I read this informative thread, I have a question: Is it only Special-T/DAP that has the earlier accumulator? If so, does it cross to another application (like the later one does to the Corvette), or is it either old stock or another unit that Hervey has modified to fit? In any case, for anyone who has bought it, does it fit? How do you like it? Any problems? Etc.


Thanks!

Never underestimate the power of cross referencing the old fashoned way, either take a trip to the local auto parts store and ask to look at their Four Seasons Accumulator catalog and compare the accumulator pictures to the early vin DMC accumulator. In the alternative, you could download the Four Seasons catalog. This was how I Confirmed that the Four Seasons 33186 was an exact match for the later style accumulator (it crosses to a 1988 Olds Firenza). The Corvette accumulator places the low side hose way too close to the wheel.

For the low vin app, you may want to look at the accumulator for a 1983 Olds Toronado. Some of them use a interchangable outlet on the bottom, thus you would need to find the correct outlet pipe for the DeLorean.

[bfloyd]

If I'm going to invest this much into the AC system, I'd like to protect that investment as much as possible if I can.

Is the connector to the HP switch available separately? How would one wire the new connection up and fabricate a new harness?

I just got through doing this exact same thing on my car earlier this week. Installing the connection for the high pressure switch at the base of the condenser is VERY easy.
At the low pressure switch harness (behind the passenger side front tire) there are 4 wires going into the connector for the low pressure switch. One side of the connector has 3 wires, the other side of the connector has one wire. Cut the side with one wire and connect accordingly to the diagram shown below.
http://i.imgur.com/QB4mYHsl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/fZ4MgBjl.jpg

[DMC-81]

Never underestimate the power of cross referencing the old fashoned way, either take a trip to the local auto parts store and ask to look at their Four Seasons Accumulator catalog and compare the accumulator pictures to the early vin DMC accumulator. In the alternative, you could download the Four Seasons catalog. This was how I Confirmed that the Four Seasons 33186 was an exact match for the later style accumulator (it crosses to a 1988 Olds Firenza). The Corvette accumulator places the low side hose way too close to the wheel.

For the low vin app, you may want to look at the accumulator for a 1983 Olds Toronado. Some of them use a interchangable outlet on the bottom, thus you would need to find the correct outlet pipe for the DeLorean.

Thanks Andrew. I looked at the Toronado unit and it doesn't look the same.. as far as the bottom tube being welded on. I'll keep researching.

Really, I don't mind paying a vendor for a quality product, so I wonder if Hervey's is a new cross reference unit that is the same as the early VIN unit, or if it is one that he engineered to fit. Does anyone who bought one know? Is it exactly the unit pictured on his website?

Here's why I'm asking. Below is an RPM relay that I bought soon after I got my car. After I got it, I discovered that he engineered it to let the heat escape....

45630

I kid you not. This modification wasn't pictured on his website. It looks like it suffered an alien probe. It worked, but it wasn't exactly concourse! :) I wouldn't want to order the accumulator and have to through the hassle of returning it.



I just got through doing this exact same thing on my car earlier this week. Installing the connection for the high pressure switch at the base of the condenser is VERY easy.
At the low pressure switch harness (behind the passenger side front tire) there are 4 wires going into the connector for the low pressure switch. One side of the connector has 3 wires, the other side of the connector has one wire. Cut the side with one wire and connect accordingly to the diagram shown below.


Thanks for the great info Barry. I too have a very early VIN without the high pressure switch. I'm going to add one for safety as part of my AC recommissioning.

Question for anyone who knows: I see that DMC has the wire harness for the HPS. I wonder if some of the cars without one have the provision on the harness to plug it in? The reason I ask is I see this connector in the passenger side footwell...

45631

Currently it seems to be bypassed. Is this perhaps where you connect the HPS harness?

Thanks!

[jawn101]

Here's why I'm asking. Below is an RPM relay that I bought soon after I got my car. After I got it, I discovered that he engineered it to let the heat escape....

45630

I kid you not. This modification wasn't pictured on his website. It looks like it suffered an alien probe.

LOL, oh, Hervey. Typical.

[Morpheus]

As I read this informative thread, I have a question: Is it only Special-T/DAP that has the earlier accumulator? If so, does it cross to another application (like the later one does to the Corvette), or is it either old stock or another unit that Hervey has modified to fit? In any case, for anyone who has bought it, does it fit? How do you like it? Any problems? Etc.


Thanks!

It is my understanding that JH doesn't have anymore of the Early style accumulators available. Even if they were readily available, they were about $100 IIRC. I have the same dilemma as you now, which is why I am opting to replace all my hoses since I have to replace the low side to fit a newer style accumulator anyway.




Question for anyone who knows: I see that DMC has the wire harness for the HPS. I wonder if some of the cars without one have the provision on the harness to plug it in? The reason I ask is I see this connector in the passenger side footwell...

45631

Currently it seems to be bypassed. Is this perhaps where you connect the HPS harness?

Thanks!

I am really interested to see if that is the case. I want to check my car now and see if I have the same plug! I wasn't looking forward to cutting and splicing in a HPS.

[Farrar]

Question for anyone who knows: I see that DMC has the wire harness for the HPS. I wonder if some of the cars without one have the provision on the harness to plug it in? The reason I ask is I see this connector in the passenger side footwell...

45631

Currently it seems to be bypassed. Is this perhaps where you connect the HPS harness?

If memory serves, that is correct. It's been a while since I re-did my a/c, but I recall checking continuity at that connector and it rang to the LP switch. (I know the wire's the same color, but that doesn't necessarily mean anything on these cars! LOL) Do you have a digital multi meter you can use to check continuity?

[DMC-81]

If memory serves, that is correct. It's been a while since I re-did my a/c, but I recall checking continuity at that connector and it rang to the LP switch. (I know the wire's the same color, but that doesn't necessarily mean anything on these cars! LOL) Do you have a digital multi meter you can use to check continuity?

Thanks! I'll do testing with my multi meter.

[DMC-81]

Never underestimate the power of cross referencing the old fashoned way, either take a trip to the local auto parts store and ask to look at their Four Seasons Accumulator catalog and compare the accumulator pictures to the early vin DMC accumulator. In the alternative, you could download the Four Seasons catalog. This was how I Confirmed that the Four Seasons 33186 was an exact match for the later style accumulator (it crosses to a 1988 Olds Firenza). The Corvette accumulator places the low side hose way too close to the wheel.

For the low vin app, you may want to look at the accumulator for a 1983 Olds Toronado. Some of them use a interchangable outlet on the bottom, thus you would need to find the correct outlet pipe for the DeLorean.

So, I have combed the catalogs of a few manufacturers, and I found 33204 (http://ecatalog.smpcorp.com/fs/#/vehicles/parts/num/33204?type=s) from Four Seasons to be the approximate dimensions (very close or exact at first pass), and switch placement of the original low vin accumulator. As a bonus, it's around $21.

46088

What do you think? Is it a match?

So, like Andrew said, I would just need to figure out the bottom tube. I see part 34208 (http://ecatalog.smpcorp.com/fs/#/vehicles/parts/num/34208?type=s) which I suppose can be cut to the right length and re-flared it with a 3/4" tool, depending on the type of flare.

Question: does anyone know the type of flare that the bottom of the low vin unit has, where it connects to the hose? A picture would be fabulous. Is it one of these two types:

A)
46086

B)
46087

By the way, I called DAP and like Brandon said, they don't sell the low vin version anymore. John said that he had a major Dallas AC manufacturer make them. So I guess this avenue is my only viable shot to keep it somewhat original.

Thanks for your help.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I was wondering if the desiccant pellets in the accumulator are different for use with R12 or R134a. I would say the NOS accumulators were made for R12.

[DMC-81]

I was wondering if the desiccant pellets in the accumulator are different for use with R12 or R134a. I would say the NOS accumulators were made for R12.

Hi Dave,

Good question. I see that this one says it is compatible with both R12 and R134a, and contains a " high quality desiccant".

[Morpheus]

Question for anyone who knows: I see that DMC has the wire harness for the HPS. I wonder if some of the cars without one have the provision on the harness to plug it in? The reason I ask is I see this connector in the passenger side footwell...

45631

Currently it seems to be bypassed. Is this perhaps where you connect the HPS harness?

Thanks!


If memory serves, that is correct. It's been a while since I re-did my a/c, but I recall checking continuity at that connector and it rang to the LP switch. (I know the wire's the same color, but that doesn't necessarily mean anything on these cars! LOL) Do you have a digital multi meter you can use to check continuity?


Thanks! I'll do testing with my multi meter.

My car has this little plug as well, I found it last weekend.

Dana, were you ever able to verify that this is in fact the connection for the HP switch? If it is, then you and I could just purchase the harness from DMCH and we're done. No cutting and splicing required!

[DMC-81]

My car has this little plug as well, I found it last weekend.

Dana, were you ever able to verify that this is in fact the connection for the HP switch? If it is, then you and I could just purchase the harness from DMCH and we're done. No cutting and splicing required!

Hi Brandon, no, not yet...busy week. I should be able to this weekend. I'm hoping to use the harness too.
I'd also like to use my original hoses assuming I can get the early accumulator replacement to work.

[David T]

Hi Brandon, no, not yet...busy week. I should be able to this weekend. I'm hoping to use the harness too.
I'd also like to use my original hoses assuming I can get the early accumulator replacement to work.

No one should be seriously considering using the 30 + year old original hoses. Even if they don't burst outright for you they will leak badly. They were never intended to last anywhere near this long. Like tires. Although they may look fine they are seriously deteriorated. The best advice would be to change over to the newer configuration with new hoses and a new dryer.

[DMC-81]

No one should be seriously considering using the 30 + year old original hoses. Even if they don't burst outright for you they will leak badly. They were never intended to last anywhere near this long. Like tires. Although they may look fine they are seriously deteriorated. The best advice would be to change over to the newer configuration with new hoses and a new dryer.

Hi David,

Maybe. Worst case, I will be out ~$40 for the accumulator but will get practice evacuating, drawing vacuum, and charging to spec. Plus I can evaluate my compressor, evaporator, and condenser under operating pressure which is more important to me. I look at it as an educational dry run with a chance of success in the first round.

By the way, my system has been holding steady pressure for months. I really only need to open it up to look at the compressor which is not building pressure. Not sure if it's a failed compressor or a blockage.

Like my door locks, I'm sure I'll learn a lot about the system when I get finished. :)

[David T]

Hi David,

Maybe. Worst case, I will be out ~$40 for the accumulator but will get practice evacuating, drawing vacuum, and charging to spec. Plus I can evaluate my compressor, evaporator, and condenser under operating pressure which is more important to me. I look at it as an educational dry run with a chance of success in the first round.

By the way, my system has been holding steady pressure for months. I really only need to open it up to look at the compressor which is not building pressure. Not sure if it's a failed compressor or a blockage.

Like my door locks, I'm sure I'll learn a lot about the system when I get finished. :)

I understand how you want it to be a "learning experience. When you ask for advice here on the forum you get the collective experience of all of the members. Trying to use the old hoses is a bad idea and you will lose your A/C when you need it the most. For reliability's sake you are best served being proactive and just replacing them.

[DMC-81]

I understand how you want it to be a "learning experience. When you ask for advice here on the forum you get the collective experience of all of the members. Trying to use the old hoses is a bad idea and you will lose your A/C when you need it the most. For reliability's sake you are best served being proactive and just replacing them.

Hi David,

With all due respect, I know how the receiving of forum advice works, and I appreciate all of it. Your first post was more than a little condescending. When you say things like " no one should be seriously considering..." it infers I'm an idiot for considering it. If you want your advice to be well received, please try a different tone....one like " if you are considering using your original hoses, you run the risk of...."

I know the risks of using original hoses, and I didn't ask for advice on whether I should replace them. If they don't hold up, I will get new ones. Hervey has the earlier hose if it comes to replacement, and I found out that he doesn't make them himself. So I'll probably use that vendor if it comes to new hoses.

This thread is mainly about accumulators. I'm attempting to maintain the original accumulator configuration while adding a high pressure switch.

Cheers,

[DMC-81]

My car has this little plug as well, I found it last weekend.

Dana, were you ever able to verify that this is in fact the connection for the HP switch? If it is, then you and I could just purchase the harness from DMCH and we're done. No cutting and splicing required!

Hi Brandon,

I was able to check the plug, and the beige/orange wire is continuous with the low pressure switch. I had to make a long jumper to measure the continuity, and I got a strong ring on mine. Success!!

46097

46098

46099

Cheers,

[David T]

Hi David,

With all due respect, I know how the receiving of forum advice works, and I appreciate all of it. Your first post was more than a little condescending. When you say things like " no one should be seriously considering..." it infers I'm an idiot for considering it. If you want your advice to be well received, please try a different tone....one like " if you are considering using your original hoses, you run the risk of...."

I know the risks of using original hoses, and I didn't ask for advice on whether I should replace them. If they don't hold up, I will get new ones. Hervey has the earlier hose if it comes to replacement, and I found out that he doesn't make them himself. So I'll probably use that vendor if it comes to new hoses.

This thread is mainly about accumulators. I'm attempting to maintain the original accumulator configuration while adding a high pressure switch.

Cheers,

Tone is a hard thing to communicate over the Internet. Especially when you consider we converse with people all over the US and other countries with different dialects. I never want to sound condescending although it may come out that way to someone's ear. Anything you get from the forum is only advice, it is up to the user to decide for themselves what to do. I speak from years of experience and I know the hoses will not last so I advise you not to waste time trying to use the old hoses when I know they will pop. I had one pop on my car and when it is hot you just can't drive the car if it is even warm. The Delorean is like a toaster oven and you can literally lose pounds trying to drive it without A/C. I hear you when you say you want to practice so do it. Just understand what is going to happen so you can make an informed decision. When I said to replace the hoses (even if you didn't ask) it was because I know how much work it is to clean, evacuate, and fill the system (and the cost of the refrigerant) so I said to replace the hoses so you don't have to do it again. As long as you understand what you are doing and the consequences, that is all we can hope for when trying to help each other.

[DMC-81]

Tone is a hard thing to communicate over the Internet. Especially when you consider we converse with people all over the US and other countries with different dialects. I never want to sound condescending although it may come out that way to someone's ear. Anything you get from the forum is only advice, it is up to the user to decide for themselves what to do. I speak from years of experience and I know the hoses will not last so I advise you not to waste time trying to use the old hoses when I know they will pop. I had one pop on my car and when it is hot you just can't drive the car if it is even warm. The Delorean is like a toaster oven and you can literally lose pounds trying to drive it without A/C. I hear you when you say you want to practice so do it. Just understand what is going to happen so you can make an informed decision. When I said to replace the hoses (even if you didn't ask) it was because I know how much work it is to clean, evacuate, and fill the system (and the cost of the refrigerant) so I said to replace the hoses so you don't have to do it again. As long as you understand what you are doing and the consequences, that is all we can hope for when trying to help each other.

Thanks David. We're good.

[Morpheus]

Hi Brandon,

I was able to check the plug, and the beige/orange wire is continuous with the low pressure switch. I had to make a long jumper to measure the continuity, and I got a strong ring on mine. Success!!

46097

46098

46099

Cheers,

That's awesome! Looks like the HP switch harness will work after all.


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[Morpheus]

As an aside, I have an A/C related question for the group:

I added a can of R134a a few weeks ago, because I suspected that I was low. Hooked up gauges and the high side was not where it should have been.

If the air blows cold while at idle, but is much less so at highway speed, does that usually indicate that it's over charged?


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[David T]

As an aside, I have an A/C related question for the group:

I added a can of R134a a few weeks ago, because I suspected that I was low. Hooked up gauges and the high side was not where it should have been.

If the air blows cold while at idle, but is much less so at highway speed, does that usually indicate that it's over charged?


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Contradictory signs, low high side at idle but not blowing cold at high speed. It could be you have moisture and it is freezing up and melting, it could be some air too. If you were that low that you put a whole can in it couldn't have been running. If it was running and you added a whole can your high side should be way up. Hard to say what is going on. The thing to do now would be to remove the refrigerant, check your oil fill, maybe replace the dryer, vacuum and refill, preferably with R-12.

[Bitsyncmaster]

As an aside, I have an A/C related question for the group:

I added a can of R134a a few weeks ago, because I suspected that I was low. Hooked up gauges and the high side was not where it should have been.

If the air blows cold while at idle, but is much less so at highway speed, does that usually indicate that it's over charged?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What were the pressures you saw. Would also need to know the air temp when you tested. A low high side reading would usually indicate a bad compressor or low charge.

[Morpheus]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ss3g7ATm51I

This is a video I took of the pressures before adding a can. It was about 95-98 degrees out. I also had a shop fan blowing on the radiator, if that matters.


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[Morpheus]

Contradictory signs, low high side at idle but not blowing cold at high speed. It could be you have moisture and it is freezing up and melting, it could be some air too. If you were that low that you put a whole can in it couldn't have been running. If it was running and you added a whole can your high side should be way up. Hard to say what is going on. The thing to do now would be to remove the refrigerant, check your oil fill, maybe replace the dryer, vacuum and refill, preferably with R-12.

I should specify that the high side looked low according to a chart I had, so I added a can and the high side went up to about 300 afterward, which fell pretty close to spec.


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[Bitsyncmaster]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ss3g7ATm51I

This is a video I took of the pressures before adding a can. It was about 95-98 degrees out. I also had a shop fan blowing on the radiator, if that matters.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those pressures don't look bad. Was your circulation fan on speed 4? It seemed to cycle to fast. It would do that with low airflow over the evaporator. It could also be your orifice is restricted. I would replace the orifice and look how dirty your old one is.

[DMC5180]

Hi Brandon,I was able to check the plug, and the beige/orange wire is continuous with the low pressure switch. I had to make a long jumper to measure the continuity, and I got a strong ring on mine. Success!!460974609846099Cheers,

DANA,

The Connector you show with the jumper is where the Factory HP switch harness connects. I just installed the extended length harness in July. It's a real PITA BTW. The harness feeds through the Bulkhead grommet where you see the LP switch harness coming out of.

HP switch harness http://store.delorean.com/p-7726-harness-wiring-hi-press-sw.aspx

HP switch http://store.delorean.com/p-7722-hi-press-cut-out-sw.aspx

Switch adapter http://store.delorean.com/p-7725-adapter-condenser.aspx

HP relief Valve http://store.delorean.com/p-7723-pressure-relief-vlv.aspx

[DMC-81]

DANA,

The Connector you show with the jumper is where the Factory HP switch harness connects. I just installed the extended length harness in July. It's a real PITA BTW. The harness feeds through the Bulkhead grommet where you see the LP switch harness coming out of.

HP switch harness http://store.delorean.com/p-7726-harness-wiring-hi-press-sw.aspx

HP switch http://store.delorean.com/p-7722-hi-press-cut-out-sw.aspx

Switch adapter http://store.delorean.com/p-7725-adapter-condenser.aspx

HP relief Valve http://store.delorean.com/p-7723-pressure-relief-vlv.aspx

Thanks for the confirmation of the connector and parts Dennis!

I ordered all four. I like that the switch adapter locates these components out of the wheelwell. That's mainly why I'm trying to find a workable solution to the early accumulator. I like that it keeps the hose close to the frame.

Thanks as well for the info on where the harness is routed. I'll brace for a tough job!

[Morpheus]

Does anyone know what size O-rings are on the back of the compressor? Or better yet, where to find them? I'm going to flush out my system and I want to replace them when I re-attach the lines.

[BABIS]

DANA,

The Connector you show with the jumper is where the Factory HP switch harness connects. I just installed the extended length harness in July. It's a real PITA BTW. The harness feeds through the Bulkhead grommet where you see the LP switch harness coming out of.

HP switch harness http://store.delorean.com/p-7726-harness-wiring-hi-press-sw.aspx

HP switch http://store.delorean.com/p-7722-hi-press-cut-out-sw.aspx

Switch adapter http://store.delorean.com/p-7725-adapter-condenser.aspx

HP relief Valve http://store.delorean.com/p-7723-pressure-relief-vlv.aspx

do you need also a new "straight" hose from the condenser to the condenser?

I have the Special-t "hub style" hose but the option to move all near the condenser is tempting...

[Morpheus]

Ok, I found an assortment of O-rings at Auto Zone so surely there are a couple in there that will work:

http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/a-c-system-o-ring/quest-a-c-system-o-ring/540058_0_0/?checkfit=true

Next question:
Does anyone know the proper torque for the bolt that holds the (hose) retaining plate on the back of the compressor? I have looked everywhere I can think of, but I can't find it. I have heard of people stripping the threads out by over-tightening this bolt, so I don't want to make that mistake.

[DMC5180]

do you need also a new "straight" hose from the condenser to the condenser?

I have the Special-t "hub style" hose but the option to move all near the condenser is tempting...

I didn't know you already had the Hervey hub hose. I assumed you just had the no-hub original. The NOS condenser adapter creates the 90 degree turn for connecting the hose with a straight fitting. The Hervey hose has a 90 built into that end. I don't know if you would be able to make that work. Alternately, you could see if John would swap your hub setup for the no hub configuration he sells. I don't know if he uses the same hose assembly and just replaces the hub with a 90 fitting adapter. Check the photos on his website and compare them.


Dennis

[DMC5180]

Ok, I found an assortment of O-rings at Auto Zone so surely there are a couple in there that will work:

http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/a-c-system-o-ring/quest-a-c-system-o-ring/540058_0_0/?checkfit=true

Next question:
Does anyone know the proper torque for the bolt that holds the (hose) retaining plate on the back of the compressor? I have looked everywhere I can think of, but I can't find it. I have heard of people stripping the threads out by over-tightening this bolt, so I don't want to make that mistake.

20-22 ft lbs as long as you have at least 1/2 inch thread engagement.


Dennis

[BABIS]

do you need also a new "straight" hose from the condenser to the evaporator?

I have the Special-t "hub style" hose but the option to move all near the condenser is tempting...



I didn't know you already had the Hervey hub hose. I assumed you just had the no-hub original. The NOS condenser adapter creates the 90 degree turn for connecting the hose with a straight fitting. The Hervey hose has a 90 built into that end. I don't know if you would be able to make that work. Alternately, you could see if John would swap your hub setup for the no hub configuration he sells. I don't know if he uses the same hose assembly and just replaces the hub with a 90 fitting adapter. Check the photos on his website and compare them.

Dennis

Sorry in my previous post I obviously intended to ask you about the hose from the condenser to the evaporator.
I guess that it would look like this with the "90 degree hose" on the late condenser adapter (post #6): http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?4093-What-receiver-dryer-should-2638-have-Also-AC-question

edit: this is the hose without hub sold by Hervey, and it has the 90 degree fitting: http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/ac-hose-cond-evap.jpg

[DMC5180]

Yes, after I made the previous post I went back up the thread and found that photo with the hose attached to the adapter and was a 90 end fitting.

Also I thought I was replying to DANA, sorry about the confusion.

Unless you prefer to switch your configuration to the later style. You might as well stay with what you have, assuming you had the HP switch in the Hub hose.

Dana, had no HP switch configuration and is Updating his system, hence the need for him to buy those items.

I recently converted to late style HP switch configuration , but it was only because the hose kit I bought did not support the HUB configuration. Otherwise, I would have stayed with it.


Dennis

[DMC-81]

DANA,

The Connector you show with the jumper is where the Factory HP switch harness connects. I just installed the extended length harness in July. It's a real PITA BTW. The harness feeds through the Bulkhead grommet where you see the LP switch harness coming out of.

HP switch harness http://store.delorean.com/p-7726-harness-wiring-hi-press-sw.aspx

HP switch http://store.delorean.com/p-7722-hi-press-cut-out-sw.aspx

Switch adapter http://store.delorean.com/p-7725-adapter-condenser.aspx

HP relief Valve http://store.delorean.com/p-7723-pressure-relief-vlv.aspx

I got those parts this week. They look great:
46277

I looked up the GM part number on the HP switch and DMC definitely has a great price on it. Also, I'm tempted to polish the aluminum adapter a bit... :)

I noticed the pressure relief valve has a hole in the top covered with a little piece of masking tape. I'm assuming that is where the gas escapes from if it gets triggered. Question: do I leave the tape there to protect the opening from the elements, or should it be open?

46278

[DMC5180]

Your choice, the tape just keeps the crap out and would blow out in the event it actually needed to open. The one on my old hub style line had the hole exposed.


Dennis

[Bitsyncmaster]

I like the idea of a cover over the exposed hole. I wonder if the overpressure device is a spring loaded valve or just a blow off plate (one shot device). A spring loaded device may not work if rusted.

[DMC-81]

Thanks guys. It looks like there is a heavy gauge spring in the hole. I agree to cover it. Otherwise, if its vertically oriented, it would fill up with water ( in theory). I'll cover the top with a round piece of clear tape.

:hihi:

[DMC5180]

Yes, it's spring loaded and as you mentioned , will stand vertical when installed. On the Hub hose configuration it sits in a downward position. Any potential water would drain out. The one thing I'm not sure about is if the RV is installed with an O-ring, I never unscrewed it from the Hub.


Dennis

[Morpheus]

Dana, did you ever get that new accumulator to work?

[DMC-81]

Dana, did you ever get that new accumulator to work?

I'm still working on it, but I found a shop that makes custom A/C aluminum tubes, and knew exactly what I needed. I just need to spec it out and send it to them. The owner said it will probably be $15 or $20. So, all told, I can make a new accumulator that is close to the early version for around $50.

The unit that I linked to above has a body that is shorter than the original, due to the bottom fitting being included in the 9" length of the original. That makes sense, because otherwise with a 9" body and a fitting, it would be too long. I can't think of a reason for a shorter body to be a problem, unless the volume of the accumulator is critical. Other thoughts?

I'll buy one for comparison. The only downside to this set up that I can see is an additional joint that might leak. To me, it's worth it to maintain the early hose that is tucked along the frame.

When I get the time to do this, it would be great if someone with CAD skills can partner with me to create a professional specification. Then, after I verify that it works, the shop can hang on to the specs and make one for whoever else wants one.

I also emailed John Hervey to pitch that product solution to revive the early accumulator, since he has the early hose. He hasn't responded yet, but when I talked to him a couple weeks ago he said he doesn't get many inquiries on the early accumulator.

[BABIS]

..I realized I have a NOS a/c accumulator on the shelf which I thought to install after my a/c box restoration, do you think is worth to use it after 35 years of storage? Houston is still selling them...

[DMC5180]

As long as the sealed protection Caps are in place it should be fine to use.


Dennis

[Bitsyncmaster]

..I realized I have a NOS a/c accumulator on the shelf which I thought to install after my a/c box restoration, do you think is worth to use it after 35 years of storage? Houston is still selling them...

That is a good question. First how good the sealing caps worked for 35 years. Second is the dryer pellets were made for R12 so will it work for R134?

[DMC-81]

I'm back on track with my A/C refurb, and I have a question about the late style accumulator, specifically, what is the original orientation of the low side fitting/hose and low pressure switch fitting and is that desirable to avoid interference in the wheelwell?

Here are the pictures from the four seasons catalog of the 2 units discussed above:

The Corvette unit (33177)
52815

The Olds Firenza unit (33186)
52816

Also, this unit looks like some OEM pictures I've seen:
(This is also an Olds Firenza unit)
52818

If anyone could post a picture of the OEM late style accumulator installed showing where the low side hose is in relation to the frame/wheelwell that would be helpful for me to decide whether I'll stick with the early style or convert to the late style.

Thanks!

[DMC-81]

I'm back on track with my A/C refurb, and I have a question about the late style accumulator, specifically, what is the original orientation of the low side fitting/hose and low pressure switch fitting and is that desirable to avoid interference in the wheelwell?

Here are the pictures from the four seasons catalog of the 2 units discussed above:

The Corvette unit (33177)
52829

The Olds Firenza unit (33186)
52830

Also, this unit looks like some OEM pictures I've seen:
(This is also an Olds Firenza unit)
52818

If anyone could post a picture of the OEM late style accumulator installed showing where the low side hose is in relation to the frame/wheelwell that would be helpful for me to decide whether I'll stick with the early style or convert to the late style.

Thanks!

Apologies. The pictures didn't upload last time. I've fixed them. Also, I saw a picture of the late style OEM accumulator installed, and it seems to route the hose under the accumulator, close to the frame and tucked behind the shock tower. For some reason I thought that that version allowed the low side hose to protrude into the wheel well a lot more. That's good.

That makes me more in favor of switching to the late version. If somebody has a picture of the Corvette accumulator installed, that would be good to see, especially on what port you installed your low pressure switch. I'm not crazy about how it's stuck out in the well on my early version.

(My goal here in this exercise is to tuck the hose and the switch out of the wheel well as much as possible.)

Thanks.