Brand new Clutch not pumping!!!

[1batt4u]

Hi all,

I have an entire brand new clutch kit from John Hervey, Specialtauto!

I just finished installing everything as we speak!!

I got Kit 1 Life warranty, with stainless steel sleeved master and slave, S/S braided line, and clutch bleeder!

I have been pumping, oil not going through!!!

Need HELP!!!! Any ideas??? PLease!!! I am in the middle of this!:sad30:

[Kenny_Z]

Do you see any of the fluid leaking out anywhere? Check in the footwell as well as underneath. The brake fluid has to go somewhere if it isn't going through the system.

[1batt4u]

The fluid is still in reservoir, hasn't dropped from wherke I filled up to.

[WelmoedJ]

The fluid is still in reservoir, hasn't dropped from wherke I filled up to.

Did you connect the bleeder properly?
Sometimes leaking at the bleeder also causes this kind of behavior.

Disconnect the bleeder and see if the level in the reservoir drops when you step on the clutch pedal.
It should at least do that even with air in the system.

Did you open the bleeder screw at the slave and pump the clutch pedal?
This also should get some of the fluid out at the slave's bleeder screw.

[1batt4u]

Did you connect the bleeder properly?
Sometimes leaking at the bleeder also causes this kind of behavior.

Disconnect the bleeder and see if the level in the reservoir drops when you step on the clutch pedal.
It should at least do that even with air in the system.

Did you open the bleeder screw at the slave and pump the clutch pedal?
This also should get some of the fluid out at the slave's bleeder screw.

Yes, I removed the bleeder from the slave cylinder, stepped on clutch a bunch of times, for awhile, but nothing!! :-(

There is nothing else I should open up or anything?

Anything with the master cylinder? Something blocking the fluid from going through?

This is driving me crazy!! And a huge pain getting all these parts in!

[WelmoedJ]

Old brake system hoses sometimes deteriorate internally and can block flow.
That also can happen with hoses in the clutch system.
If you haven't replaced the hose between reservoir and main clutch cylinder then do following:
Disconnect the hose between reservoir and main clutch cylinder and see if fluid comes out.
No fluid? Hose is obstructed, so replace this hose, then proceed to flush and bleed the clutch system.

If the hose is not obstructed, something in the main clutch cylinder is obstructing flow.

Good luck.

[1batt4u]

I put in a brand new silicone hose! Everything is new on the clutch system! Right down to the bolts!
This is really driving me crazy 3 hours just messing around with this

[DMCMW Dave]

OR the adjustable clutch master (which should NOT be adjustable for this very reason) is adjusted wrong.

OR the new (rebuilt?) master is NFG.

I've seen both.

PS -I've also seen brand new braided lines that were plugged at the end-crimp.

[WelmoedJ]

I understand how you feel about this, but geting worked up isn't the way to get the problem solved.

Did you test the main and slave clutch cylinders before mounting them?
That would give you an impression on their proper functioning.

Although there couldn't be anything wrong with simple things like the braided SS clutch line or the hose, did you test these?
Blowing air through them assures nothing bad is in there.

Did you test the system without the bleeder (with the original bleeder screw on the slave cylinder)?

The obvious: is there a possibility connections on the master cylinder were swapped?
IMO this is not possible, but nevertheless, check.

After you have gone over these possibilities, disconnect the clutch line from the slave and check if fluid comes out when pushing the pedal.
If that happens connect and open the "normal" bleeder screw and see what happens when you push the pedal.

If fluid comes out, install the Hervey bleeder line and repeat the afore action to see if fluid leaves this bleeder.

Don't get irritated, keep focussed, we're here to help you solve the issue.

[1batt4u]

OR the adjustable clutch master (which should NOT be adjustable for this very reason) is adjusted wrong.

OR the new (rebuilt?) master is NFG.

I've seen both.

Right now I just cleaned up everything, gonna try again either tomorrow or Monday!

You think the clevis rod might have to be adjusted? It seemed fine. I try and look at that

[1batt4u]

I understand how you feel about this, but geting worked up isn't the way to get the problem solved.

Did you test the main and slave clutch cylinders before mounting them?
That would give you an impression on their proper functioning.

I wouldn't know how to test them, or even tihnk that they needed testing. I bought these from John ?Hervey, I would think that he has them tested!

Although there couldn't be anything wrong with simple things like the braided SS clutch line or the hose, did you test these?
Blowing air through them assures nothing bad is in there.

Yes I had those tested with air hose.

Did you test the system without the bleeder (with the original bleeder screw on the slave cylinder)?

Yes, tested it without bleeder.

The obvious: is there a possibility connections on the master cylinder were swapped?
IMO this is not possible, but nevertheless, check.

What connections you referring to?

After you have gone over these possibilities, disconnect the clutch line from the slave and check if fluid comes out when pushing the pedal.
If that happens connect and open the "normal" bleeder screw and see what happens when you push the pedal.

I'll have to try that eith tomorrow or Monday. It was such a B**** getting all parts in and tightened!! I'll remove clutch line from the slave, see what happens. I'll also take pictures of how everything is installed!

If fluid comes out, install the Hervey bleeder line and repeat the afore action to see if fluid leaves this bleeder.

I will do that!!

Don't get irritated, keep focussed, we're here to help you solve the issue.

I know, its not the first time I have bought a brand new Delorean part and its given me problems! Thank you for the help!!! I really appreciate it!!!!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Maybe a pressure bleeder will solve this problem. You may just have to much air trapped. Have you put the bleeder into a jar of fluid when you are bleeding it?

[DMC5180]

Billy,

First thing we are talking about Hervey Modified Sleeved cylinders. What's to say the hole for reservoir line got drilled or lined up correctly in the sleeve to cylinder body.

Do you have a second person to help you bleed the system? I've used self bleeders in the past (vacuum check valve type) but it works best to have another person.

Is the car up on jack stands so you can access the SS line at the the transmission fitting. If so disconnect the line and see if fluid will drain in a cup. Gravity will get the fluid flowing
assuming nothing is obstructing it.. Once you have proof of flow, reconnect it. At the very least you will have drawn fluid that far down the system. Then go back to 2 person bleeding so you can see what is happening at the slave end. I typically install a 8mm box wrench on the bleeder then the fluid over that. the bleeder only needs to move 1/4 CCW from tight to open. Have some one pump the pedal a few times and hold it down while you crack the bleeder. You know the routine. Pump the pedal hold down, crack bleeder, Observe air bubbles/Fluid, Close bleeder and repeat. Don't forget to check the reservoir and keep it filled adequately.

[Nicholas R]

This may sound crazy, but if fluid isnt leaving the reservoir, are you sure you don't have the 2 hoses plugged into the master cylinder backward?

[1batt4u]

This may sound crazy, but if fluid isnt leaving the reservoir, are you sure you don't have the 2 hoses plugged into the master cylinder backward?

Yea, the hoses are correct!! Double check with specialtauto and Delorean.com website!

BTW How is your trip so far??

[1batt4u]

Billy,

First thing we are talking about Hervey Modified Sleeved cylinders. What's to say the hole for reservoir line got drilled or lined up correctly in the sleeve to cylinder body.

Do you have a second person to help you bleed the system? I've used self bleeders in the past (vacuum check valve type) but it works best to have another person.

Is the car up on jack stands so you can access the SS line at the the transmission fitting. If so disconnect the line and see if fluid will drain in a cup. Gravity will get the fluid flowing
assuming nothing is obstructing it.. Once you have proof of flow, reconnect it. At the very least you will have drawn fluid that far down the system. Then go back to 2 person bleeding so you can see what is happening at the slave end. I typically install a 8mm box wrench on the bleeder then the fluid over that. the bleeder only needs to move 1/4 CCW from tight to open. Have some one pump the pedal a few times and hold it down while you crack the bleeder. You know the routine. Pump the pedal hold down, crack bleeder, Observe air bubbles/Fluid, Close bleeder and repeat. Don't forget to check the reservoir and keep it filled adequately.

I can find someone to help me bleed it.

The rear of car is on ramps, so it is easy to get under. So I'll do what you said, disconnect the line down there and see what happens!

I know the process of bleeding. I bled the car on my own with the old clutch system, master cyl. had a leak into the cabin! I pumped the pedal, and held the pedal down with a stick, between the pedal and seat! Seats need work, so don't care! lol Went in the back tightened and thats it!

I'll go over everything again!! Just so annoying doing all that, tight space, lying on the ground. I'm a tall guy 6'2" big hands, so makes it hard for me to get into some places.

I'll keep you guys posted!! Thank you for the help!!!

[DCUK Martin]

One thing I've seem before is the hose from reservoir to clutch m/c forms a U-bend and gets an air bubble trapped in it. Weasel that hose around a bit and create a "downhill run" from reservoir to m/c. See if you get a burp of air rising to the top of the reservoir.

[1batt4u]

One thing I've seem before is the hose from reservoir to clutch m/c forms a U-bend and gets an air bubble trapped in it. Weasel that hose around a bit and create a "downhill run" from reservoir to m/c. See if you get a burp of air rising to the top of the reservoir.

My hose is pretty much straight!! No curve or bend!

[1batt4u]

I just took these pictures real quick. Don't have time today to go under, or mess around with anything.

http://i50.tinypic.com/6410xy.jpg

I just put this part back in December 2011. Car is under work, hasn't been drivable. Why in the world would the rubber deteriorate like that so quick??
http://i46.tinypic.com/2udz190.jpg

[denis45700]

Did you bench bleed the master before installing it.

[1batt4u]

Did you bench bleed the master before installing it.

Bench Bleed? I haven't heard of that. No one even mentioned I should do that, when I installed it back then.

[tommyrich]

I had this problem with a brand new DMC master about 4 years ago. It was just (in the acronym of Dave S.) "NFG". There was no seal inside. I returned it and got a good one. The way you can tell is to remove the output hose and put your thumb over the hole. When you (or a friend) presses the clutch, there should be some pressure (air or fluid). Back when I posed the same problem, I was told to bench bleed, but if the reservoir is directly above the master cylinder (as in the Delorean), it will self bleed. When I got the new one, right out of the bag I could get air pressure out of the output just by pressing the lever. Hope this helps and good luck... I've been there.
Tom

[1batt4u]

I FINALLY GOT IT WORKING!!!!! :race:

I first did what Dave told me about adjusting the clevis rod! After I did a very simple adjustment, just a full turn around, put it back on the pedal, started pumping and heard the S/S hose by the m/c making a noise! Seems that the S/S line and "Hook pipe" weren't tightened and oil started leaking out! So tightened it, also went to the back and under, made sure again everything was tight!!! Everything works Great Now!!!

THANK YOU ALL AGAIN FOR THE HELP!!!!!! :cheers:

One more thing, when the oil emptyed out in the back, caught it in a bottle, the oil was blury. It went in clear, came out blurry. Any reason for that??

Thank you!!

[DMCMW Dave]

It means that the system wasn't completely clean. It should be bled until the fluid runs clear.

Also - be sure to well rinse the spill where it leaked, clutch fluid does a fantastic job of taking the epoxy off the gas tank cover and frame.

[DCUK Martin]

the oil was blury. It went in clear, came out blurry. Any reason for that??

Assembly grease. It's harmless.

[1batt4u]

One thing I forgot to mention, the new hose I put on is some extra silicone hose I had. Any problem using it for the clutch fluid??

http://i50.tinypic.com/6410xy.jpg

[Bitsyncmaster]

Most silicon hose will not work with gas and oil. Not sure about brake fluid. If you get gas on some of my silicon vacuum hose it will swell. It seems to return to normal after it evaporates.

[Ron]

Look for markings like "SAE J1401" and Google it...