Something doesn't look right with this torsion bar support...

[Kenny_Z]

I went into my tpanel area to fix a leak and saw this.

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/tpan01.jpg
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/tpan02.jpg

That doesn't look normal to me. The odd shape matches some weird scratches I found on the Tpanel's exterior.

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/tpan04.jpg

It looks like the door support may have given way in the past and twisted the Tpanel which was hammered back into shape and then the car was painted instead of regrained.

I'm wondering if I should be worried about this? The door opens and shuts fine (except the driver's handle broke today :facepalm:).

[Dangermouse]

I does look a little skewed. Looks like it has separated a bit, so you might want to do the old bolt-down-roof fix, though I'm not sure what will happen to your door alignment if you tighten the bolts down all the way.

[DMC5180]

It's not uncommon to see that if the roof structure has dis-bonded in that area. When the door is closed, the T-bar is twisted roughly 180˚. It's always trying to lift the structure with a Torque load. (CCW) Driver side. (CW) Passenger side.

[Mark D]

Yeah the roof support separating from the fiberglass seems to be a common issue these days. I guess the glue's lifespan is about at the limit.

See this thread here for how to fix:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2551-Roof-structure-and-doors

It may be wise to get this fixed sooner than later since as the support twists like that it can lead to the torsion bars rubbing on the door hinges and then eventual torsion bar failure.

[Kenny_Z]

Yeah, it looks like the torsion bar is barely touching the hinge. Looks like all I need are a handful of carriage stainless bolts, washers, and RTV. I read through the articles but didn't see this answered. If I don't remove the torsion bars to do this are there any wires I should watch out for in the areas the bolts are run through? And I assume a standard drill bit is needed and I won't be going through anything but fiberglass?

[stevedmc]

Yeah, it looks like the torsion bar is barely touching the hinge. Looks like all I need are a handful of carriage stainless bolts, washers, and RTV. I read through the articles but didn't see this answered. If I don't remove the torsion bars to do this are there any wires I should watch out for in the areas the bolts are run through? And I assume a standard drill bit is needed and I won't be going through anything but fiberglass?

There is an access panel glued to the top of the roof cage. I would open that up and visually look inside to make sure you don't hit any wires when you start drilling.

[Kenny_Z]

Ah, I see it. Under a mess of electrical tape. Thanks, I'll be sure to check before I drill.

[Kenny_Z]

I finally got around to starting the fix on this. I probably would have had both sides done if my drill bit hadn't been dull as lecture on the history of twine.

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/tpan14.jpg
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/tpan13.jpg

It seems to have brought it back down pretty far. However, I can't slip a sheet of paper between the hinge and the torsion bar yet. Maybe that will change when I get the other side done.
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/tpan12.jpg

Has anyone else drilled into there and found uncured bondo? It looks like someone poured a half gallon in there and it never hardened.

[David T]

Get an old tire inner tube and cut two pieces 2" X 3". With your fingers pull the torsion bar away from the rear hinge and slip a piece of rubber between the bar and the hinge. Repeat on the other side. No rings when you do this! You do NOT want to scratch the torsion bar!
David Teitelbaum

[Bitsyncmaster]

Any one ever notice that every torsion bar on the drivers side goes to deep into the holding bracket and the passenger side does not.

I put a washer or two in the front side of the bar so it does not sink so much. I think you want all the spline you can get holding the torque.

[jawn101]

Any one ever notice that every torsion bar on the drivers side goes to deep into the holding bracket and the passenger side does not.

I put a washer or two in the front side of the bar so it does not sink so much. I think you want all the spline you can get holding the torque.

I noticed that same thing and thought it was very, very odd.

[rddmc]

Get an old tire inner tube and cut two pieces 2" X 3". With your fingers pull the torsion bar away from the rear hinge and slip a piece of rubber between the bar and the hinge. Repeat on the other side. No rings when you do this! You do NOT want to scratch the torsion bar!
David Teitelbaum

I used EPDM roofing material to do what David said. EPDM comes in 45, 60 and 90mil, I used 45mil and cut a piece about 3/4 of an inch wide and 6 inches long. Pull each end to make it streach out thinner and then slide it between the hinge and the torsion bar. Once there, relax the pull and cut off the excess material. I left about a half inch on each end. It is never noticed. EPDM is used on commercial "flat roofs" and roofers are always willing to give you scraps.

I have also used EPDM in the trunk, cut to exactly fit over the carpet to keep the carpet new. If 60 or 90mil is used for that you can pile luggage in the trunk and there will be no dents in the carpet. I remove it for car shows and my trunk carpet still looks new even though I have had it for eleven years. I also do the same for the shelf behind the seats. EPDM is black and does not appear out of place in the car, I usually wipe a little Black Again on it to shine it up.
Rod
10921

[Kenny_Z]

Thanks David T and Rddmc. I've got an old tube in the garage from a bike and I'll look for some EPDM roofing material to replace it with down the road. My parents recently had a metal roof put on their house so maybe the roofers left some behind. I don't wear rings so I should be safe pulling on the torsion bar by hand. I'll probably be just as aware of that bar as I was when I was bolting down the roof. I expected that thing to snap at any moment. The only thing I've ever been more worried about getting injured by on a car was being killed by a coil spring from the Nova.

Now that you mention it the driver's bar does go in further on all the pictures I've seen. I noticed it on Red but I just thought it was one of her quirks.

[rddmc]

Thanks David T and Rddmc. I've got an old tube in the garage from a bike and I'll look for some EPDM roofing material to replace it with down the road. My parents recently had a metal roof put on their house so maybe the roofers left some behind. I don't wear rings so I should be safe pulling on the torsion bar by hand. I'll probably be just as aware of that bar as I was when I was bolting down the roof. I expected that thing to snap at any moment. The only thing I've ever been more worried about getting injured by on a car was being killed by a coil spring from the Nova.

Now that you mention it the driver's bar does go in further on all the pictures I've seen. I noticed it on Red but I just thought it was one of her quirks.

PM me your USPS address and I will mail you a piece of EPDM already cut.

Rod
10921

[Kenny_Z]

Thank you Rod. Pm sent.

[ramblinmike]

The EPDM is a great idea. I used a piece of hose. I cut a slit down the side and slid it down the bar between the hinge and the bar.

[jawn101]

So I've been wondering about the hose idea... it obviously has the support of a lot of intelligent people, but if you have enough clearance between the torsion bar and hinge to insert the rubber/hose, doesn't that mean you'd be going from "not rubbing on anything" to "rubbing on something all the time" when you slip the material in there?

[rddmc]

So I've been wondering about the hose idea... it obviously has the support of a lot of intelligent people, but if you have enough clearance between the torsion bar and hinge to insert the rubber/hose, doesn't that mean you'd be going from "not rubbing on anything" to "rubbing on something all the time" when you slip the material in there?

This thread prompted me to replace the EPDM that I installed on my driver's side torsion bar several years ago. When I removed the old piece it was very dented in a small area but not so much so that there was a hole in it. I replaced it with a new piece. The dent makes me believe that the hinge has a small burr on it that needs to be ground off. No simple way to do that. I wonder if they were all cast or forged that way. My right side torsion bar has plenty of room between the hinge and torsion bar. The good thing about using 45mil EPDM is that you can stretch it to make it thin out and slide it into the tight space.

Rod
10921

[David T]

I would not recommend EPDM. It is too soft, especially if it gets hot. If you go to a bicycle store or a tire shop I am sure they will have plenty of old inner tubes that they can give you a piece of. Using a piece of hose is not a great idea, you have to slit it lengthwise and if it moves and the slit gets to where the hinge meets the torsion bar it defeats it's purpose and you would not notice.
David Teitelbaum

[jawn101]

Does anyone have any photos that actually show this material installed above the hinge? I think I may be misunderstanding what folks are doing.