Sheared Banjo Bolt on Distributor...Options?

[DavidProehl]

Rookie mistake I know. I over tightened the bolt while installing new fuel lines and it sheared off. I know this is very bad, but what are my options? Do I need to drill this out? Any other methods? I've never removed a sheared bolt, so this is new territory for me.

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I appreciate any suggestions! I'm a little concerned right now I'm going to have to end up spending $500 to replace the distributor because of this.

[DavidProehl]

I posted too soon apparently. Right after my post I was reminded of a screw removal set I had in my tool chest. I gave it a try and it came clean out! I need to order a new banjo bolt, but at least now I can sleep tonight.

The tool shown below is the "Grabit Pro" I picked up about a year ago from Home Depot. The sheared off end of the bolt is on the tip.

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[vwdmc16]

Nearly had big problems there David! I was going to suggest the screw extractor too, good thinking.

Now if you do it again, I do have a solution for you. I have an Aluminum Fuel distributor with individually adjustable ports in my possession that ive been egar to try out, it would be yours to try out.

[WelmoedJ]

Nearly had big problems there David! I was going to suggest the screw extractor too, good thinking.

Now if you do it again, I do have a solution for you. I have an Aluminum Fuel distributor with individually adjustable ports in my possession that ive been egar to try out, it would be yours to try out.

The aluminum ones with the adjustment screws like you have come from Renault vehicles.
Most of those have no ports for the FV.
Does yours have that?

[Delorean Industries]

You need to remove the distributor if you are planning on trying the extractor method. When the extractor bites debris will drop down into the distributor. I would pull it off and inverter the unit in a vice. Then use a q-tip and clean out the port. the last thing you want is foreign material inside the distributor.

[DavidProehl]

Nearly had big problems there David! I was going to suggest the screw extractor too, good thinking.

Now if you do it again, I do have a solution for you. I have an Aluminum Fuel distributor with individually adjustable ports in my possession that ive been egar to try out, it would be yours to try out.

Yes, really lucked out this time around!


You need to remove the distributor if you are planning on trying the extractor method. When the extractor bites debris will drop down into the distributor. I would pull it off and inverter the unit in a vice. Then use a q-tip and clean out the port. the last thing you want is foreign material inside the distributor.

Good suggestion Josh, didn't think about debris falling in. Surprisingly enough, I was able to remove the piece by hand. I expected it to be in there solid, but when I was fitting the extractor bit I did a hand turn before attaching it to the drill and it freely came out. I was shocked. I would have thought if it was tight enough to shear surely the threads were tight, but that wasn't the case. As such, I don't think any debris got in the distributor.

[jawn101]

David, stop scaring us like this :) Don't make me drive all the way out to Lodi just to kick your ass... :lol:

Glad you got it free and clear buddy. Next time go a little easier on the bolts :)

How'd the rest of the fuel line replacement go?

[DavidProehl]

I think I scared myself a lot more than I scared you! I thought for sure I was done. I didn't spend long on the lines, so I only have 3 of the 13 done so far, the lines to cylinders 4, 5, & 6. They looked like the most difficult of the lines to get at so I started there. I hope to finish it up tonight aside from the bolt I broke. We'll see. I'm notoriously slow when it comes to doing work on the car, not having a lot of experience I tend to take my time to make sure I'm doing things the right way. Clearly that didn't work out in this case.

[nullset]

I think I scared myself a lot more than I scared you! I thought for sure I was done. I didn't spend long on the lines, so I only have 3 of the 13 done so far, the lines to cylinders 4, 5, & 6. They looked like the most difficult of the lines to get at so I started there. I hope to finish it up tonight aside from the bolt I broke. We'll see. I'm notoriously slow when it comes to doing work on the car, not having a lot of experience I tend to take my time to make sure I'm doing things the right way. Clearly that didn't work out in this case.

Do you have a torque wrench?

I'd highly recommend using one on these bolts, to keep this from happening.

Also, are you using new copper crush washers, or reusing them?

--buddy

[DavidProehl]

No, I don't have a torque wrench, but I could certainly use one. The money spent looks like it would save me a lot of trouble in the long run. I am using new washers on all the fittings, so I'm expecting good seals.

[vwdmc16]

The aluminum ones with the adjustment screws like you have come from Renault vehicles.
Most of those have no ports for the FV.
Does yours have that?

Yes it does have ports, Its from a '87 Mercedes 300

[Mark D]

No, I don't have a torque wrench, but I could certainly use one. The money spent looks like it would save me a lot of trouble in the long run. I am using new washers on all the fittings, so I'm expecting good seals.

Definitely invest in a good torque wrench... One that can get down to a few foot pounds accurately. If I remember correctly the torque spec on those 8mm fuel distributor banjo bolts is only 7-9 ft-lbs.