View Full Version : Electrical What Is This Plug?
Tillsy
06-14-2012, 09:16 AM
G'day guys,
I found this unconnected plug in my passenger door - what is it for?
DavidProehl
06-14-2012, 10:56 AM
Heated mirror
I thought you were joking, had to look this up. That is interesting. So wiring is there to heat the mirror, but it was never implemented. Is that hooked to power or is there a loose end of wire elsewhere in the car?
WelmoedJ
06-14-2012, 11:01 AM
I thought you were joking, had to look this up. That is interesting. So wiring is there to heat the mirror, but it was never implemented. Is that hooked to power or is there a loose end of wire elsewhere in the car?
Not a loose end.
If you have heated mirrors (the glass and wiring like the rear windows heater), just connect the mirror's wiring to the loom's connector and they will work.
FYI: I have heated mirrors (the mirrors themselves were provided by Tom from Poland).
Since we both live in countries with a lot of fog, rain sometimes (my country:) snow, the heat keep the mirrors free of moisture and so.
Helps safety while driving.
Welmoed.
Well hot damn, that's sweet! I never liked how my Civic didn't come with heated mirrors, and figured DeLoreans just couldn't do it either. Especially in this climate, I've had dew everywhere on my car for the past week now. So does this plug only receive power when the defroster is on, or whenever the ignition is on?
If I were to put heated mirrors on VIN 559, do I need to replace the entire housing, or just the glass? Where can I find the plug that fits into the loose one in the door? I'm quite interested in doing this, especially if I need to drive it as a backup in bad weather (which I've needed to do on occasion).
WelmoedJ
06-15-2012, 06:09 AM
Well hot damn, that's sweet! I never liked how my Civic didn't come with heated mirrors, and figured DeLoreans just couldn't do it either. Especially in this climate, I've had dew everywhere on my car for the past week now. So does this plug only receive power when the defroster is on, or whenever the ignition is on?
ON with ignition turned ON
If I were to put heated mirrors on VIN 559, do I need to replace the entire housing, or just the glass? Where can I find the plug that fits into the loose one in the door? I'm quite interested in doing this, especially if I need to drive it as a backup in bad weather (which I've needed to do on occasion).
You only need to replace the glass, but have to also install the wiring from the mirror's housing into the doors.
The set I used (from Poland) came with pins that fit into the car's connector. If you want to have the proper connector mating the one of the car, they can be found on the Internet (I recall a site like this one has them: http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ ).
ON with ignition turned ONBah, that'd need changing. I'd only need it when I have the defroster on. Does anyone know how involved changing that would be? I have some extra connectors from my third taillight project to tap into existing wiring if it comes to it.
You only need to replace the glass, but have to also install the wiring from the mirror's housing into the doors.
The set I used (from Poland) came with pins that fit into the car's connector. If you want to have the proper connector mating the one of the car, they can be found on the Internet (I recall a site like this one has them: http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ ).I looked at that specific website and didn't see the plug, but I did find the site where the Poland mirrors were advertised, however they are long out of production so I can't get my hands on a pair. Would it make more sense to retrofit my existing mirrors with a heating element, or take another mirror with a heating element and cut it to size? I'll be sticking with flat mirrors since that is what came with my D, but the benefit of the wires preventing them from crashing to the ground is always a bonus.
Kenny_Z
06-16-2012, 12:26 AM
I was just looking at this wire today. Awesome to know what it is for now. Thanks :)
WelmoedJ
06-16-2012, 05:32 AM
Bah, that'd need changing. I'd only need it when I have the defroster on. Does anyone know how involved changing that would be? I have some extra connectors from my third taillight project to tap into existing wiring if it comes to it.
If you have the wiring diagram on hand, you may want to find the fuse that supplies the heated mirror circuit. If it's fed from a branched connection, the connectors to the door looms are behind the rear speaker panels (left door is behind right hand side panel and vice versa).
If IIRC the feed to the heated rear window is on the left hand side behind the rear speaker panel.
Should be rather easy to make a new connection to both mirrors.
I looked at that specific website and didn't see the plug, but I did find the site where the Poland mirrors were advertised, however they are long out of production so I can't get my hands on a pair. Would it make more sense to retrofit my existing mirrors with a heating element, or take another mirror with a heating element and cut it to size? I'll be sticking with flat mirrors since that is what came with my D, but the benefit of the wires preventing them from crashing to the ground is always a bonus.
My bad, gave you the wrong website.
This is the correct site: http://www.britishwiring.com/2-Way-3mm-Pin-Socket-Connector-p/c822.htm
Hope this helps.
Bah, that'd need changing. I'd only need it when I have the defroster on. Does anyone know how involved changing that would be? I have some extra connectors from my third taillight project to tap into existing wiring if it comes to it.
The defrost is controlled by vacuum and the heated mirrors are tied to several other things. So, I'd say you'd be better off running a new (fused) hot wire to a vacuum controlled switch tapped into the defrost's vacuum control line, run it to the mirrors (LightGreen/White wires...sniped to remove them from the existing circuit), and use the existing ground.
Personally, I'd prefer to control them, separate from anything else, with a simple switch...
I'm curious, would it be better to retrofit my existing mirrors with a heating element, or get another mirror that has a heating element and cut it to size? I don't even know where to begin with that one.
If you have the wiring diagram on hand, you may want to find the fuse that supplies the heated mirror circuit. If it's fed from a branched connection, the connectors to the door looms are behind the rear speaker panels (left door is behind right hand side panel and vice versa).
If IIRC the feed to the heated rear window is on the left hand side behind the rear speaker panel.
Should be rather easy to make a new connection to both mirrors.
My bad, gave you the wrong website.
This is the correct site: http://www.britishwiring.com/2-Way-3mm-Pin-Socket-Connector-p/c822.htm
Hope this helps.Actually, that helps greatly! Knowing where the wires are is half the battle.That place you linked to is only about seven hours away, contrary to the name, so shipping will be cheap. Thanks! :smile:
The defrost is controlled by vacuum and the heated mirrors are tied to several other things. So, I'd say you'd be better off running a new (fused) hot wire to a vacuum controlled switch tapped into the defrost's vacuum control line, run it to the mirrors (LightGreen/White wires...sniped to remove them from the existing circuit), and use the existing ground.
Personally, I'd prefer to control them, separate from anything else, with a simple switch...I apologize, I meant the rear defroster, not the front one. Should've been clearer on that. The way it works our Honda CR-V, the side mirrors heat up at the same time the rear defroster comes on, all controlled by the same button. I'm aiming to accomplish the same thing here. Thanks anyways though! I'm sure that info will come in handy for some other chap that wants to go that route. :smile:
I apologize, I meant the rear defroster, not the front one. Should've been clearer on that. The way it works our Honda CR-V, the side mirrors heat up at the same time the rear defroster comes on, all controlled by the same button. I'm aiming to accomplish the same thing here. Thanks anyways though! I'm sure that info will come in handy for some other chap that wants to go that route. :smile:
lol...my bad...I live where there is a lot of frost and fog...defog-defrost...well, you know ;-)
Note, I haven't tried this, so I'm not sure the timer relay will handle the extra load...the only drawback I expect is that it may shorten the defrost time a bit -- Try at own risk:
Do not use the existing (LGW) wires because they go to other components. The Rear Defrost Relay is the 5th (last) one in the top row, usually Green. All of the wires going to it are the same color (White/Blue). Tap the single wire that does not loop right back around to the relay. Run the tap to each of the mirrors. Use the existing Black wires for grounds.
OR
If you don't mind altering your harness and can locate and snip where the two mirror feed wires (LGW) join the 12V supply on both sides of the Power Mirror Switch and tap the timer.
Before:
11025
After:
11026
lol...my bad...I live where there is a lot of frost and fog...defog-defrost...well, you know ;-)
Note, I haven't tried this, so I'm not sure the timer relay will handle the extra load...the only drawback I expect is that it may shorten the defrost time a bit -- Try at own risk: If that's the worst case scenario, that's absolutely fine with me. I've always found the electric defrosters are obscenely long when there's no snow on the windshield (but with snow, they're just right). The only exception is if there's a break in one of the lines, and thus takes twice as long to heat that part up (which I still need to fix for my Civic). Of course, it'll be much safer to test the circuitry with the same ohms outside the D in case it fries and causes a fire, and I can test it there for hours on end as well just to make sure.
Thanks for the info, and for the wiring diagram! That'll come in handy if I go to rewire it. Out of curiosity, do you happen to know if the heated mirror plug terminates with a plug itself? I'd like to find a snap-on connector for both ends of the wire if possible, so I can revert to factory if it doesn't work out for some reason.
In regards to retrofitting my existing mirrors and/or resizing new heated mirrors, I'm apparently on my own there. I'll do some googling around to see what I can find. Hopefully someone's done it to a car that doesn't have any aftermarket mirrors available and has documented the process.
Out of curiosity, do you happen to know if the heated mirror plug terminates with a plug itself? Not sure but I believe they abandoned the idea before production...
Google "heated mirror grids"...there are several, some of them are universal and are intended to tap into the rear defrost.
Not sure but I believe they abandoned the idea before production...Which idea, using a plug on both ends of the wire, or the heated mirrors themselves?
Google "heated mirror grids"...there are several, some of them are universal and are intended to tap into the rear defrost.Wow, thanks a ton! :biggrin: That saved me a lot of time, and the first result on Google seems like a viable option if it measures right.
If I go through with this project, I'll post here on what options I went with for reference, and perhaps make a tutorial on it too.
Looks like it'll be a while before I get around to this project. I did take the liberty of drawing an outline of my stock mirrors, so I'll share that in case anyone wants to do it themselves:
11581
Each square is 0.25 inches, so one inch is 4 boxes long (as indicated). This makes the *maximum* workable area (including window-side slant) 3.25 inches tall by 6.5 inches, and the *minimum* workable area (excluding window-side slant) 3.25 inches tall by 5.25 inches wide. Unfortunately the current top result on Google for "heated mirror grid" is 1/16" too tall, and the width probably won't fit either. But again, I'll post what I ultimately go with if I go through with this project. Just figured I'd share my progress so it doesn't need to be repeated. :wink:
Which idea, using a plug on both ends of the wire, or the heated mirrors themselves?
Sorry I missed this post somehow.
I meant the heated mirrors themselves?
=========
Take lots of pics!!
Sorry I missed this post somehow.
I meant the heated mirrors themselvesI thought so, but just making sure. :thumbup:
Take lots of pics!!I won't be able to get around to this for quite a while. 559 will be in the shop for 2.5 months while it gets a fuel system/engine overhaul, but when I get it back, that's one thing I'm going to look into. And if I do it, I'll take plenty of pictures along the way. I'm habitual of taking pictures of anything I do to my cars for reference. Just ask anyone who's seen the ~500 pictures of my Civic audio upgrade :biggrin:
DrJeff
11-24-2012, 05:32 AM
Has anyone found a source for a suitable mirror heat grid? I've searched and can't find a heat grid small enough.
I did find one that you cut to size, but something just feels wrong about that. Anybody have experience with those?
Thanks
Has anyone found a source for a suitable mirror heat grid? I've searched and can't find a heat grid small enough.
I did find one that you cut to size, but something just feels wrong about that. Anybody have experience with those?I've looked in a few places, but haven't come across one yet. The smallest ones seem to be either too tall or too wide. There's an outline I made in post #16 above by holding it up to the passenger mirror (stock, not convex), so I've been comparing the measurements against that. The innermost slant is the biggest problem it seems, followed by the outermost tapering.
I did just think of something though: there are repair kits for rear defrosters which may potentially be usable as the heating element for side mirrors. Essentially it's a paint-on heating element, and usually there's plenty of the stuff to do long sections. Amazon carries some here (http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-15067-Window-Defogger-Repair/dp/B000HBI9YQ), and many local auto parts stores carry the stuff as well. It should be possible to design and paint a heating element grid onto the mirror itself, and insulate it from the mirror holder to prevent it from melting the mount and falling off. Not sure how you would attach the wires, but it should logically work like the rear defroster does, perhaps even pulling less amps doing so compared to a heating grid.
David T
11-24-2012, 02:20 PM
If you are thinking about hooking up heated side mirrors you might want to connect it into the rear window defroster circuit with a thermostat and a timer. This way it reduces the load on the electrical system. A lot of us are also using a small round convex stick-on mirror and that would interfere with the "heated" function. Try Rain X
David Teitelbaum
Try Rain XOut of curiosity, how does Rain X handle snow, ice, frost, cold mornings, etc.? I've thought about this method myself, but it gets very cold here, some winters with 18" of snow, and I don't know how it would hold up to that.
DrJeff
11-24-2012, 03:47 PM
If you are thinking about hooking up heated side mirrors you might want to connect it into the rear window defroster circuit with a thermostat and a timer. This way it reduces the load on the electrical system.
David Teitelbaum
I'm swapping out the stock defrost relay for this one from Euramtec. It also requires a change from the stock defrost switch but I'm also doing that as part of a console rebuild.
http://www.euramtec.com/parts/b/b01/73922312.html
Euramtec list items on eBay occasionally that are (reportedly) compatible with the Delorean, ie the dome light unit.
I'm swapping out the stock defrost relay for this one from Euramtec. It also requires a change from the stock defrost switch but I'm also doing that as part of a console rebuild.
http://www.euramtec.com/parts/b/b01/73922312.html
Euramtec list items on eBay occasionally that are (reportedly) compatible with the Delorean, ie the dome light unit.Why does adding that relay require changing the defroster switch? Isn't it just a lighted momentary switch? :confused0:
DrJeff
11-24-2012, 04:55 PM
Why does adding that relay require changing the defroster switch? Isn't it just a lighted momentary switch? :confused0:
If you wire it up to the existing switch it will continue to heat for ~12 minutes after you switch it off. The whole idea of switching out the relay is to limit the time the defroster is on, irrespective of the position of the switch. The stock module stays on till switched off which is probably why the defrost light is connected directly to the switch - to let the driver know they left the defroster on.
I find myself constantly turning on the defroster unintentionally, due to the position of the button.
DMCMW Dave
11-24-2012, 05:01 PM
Isn't it just a lighted momentary switch? :confused0:
It is an on-off latching switch.
If you wire it up to the existing switch it will continue to heat for ~12 minutes after you switch it off. The whole idea of switching out the relay is to limit the time the defroster is on, irrespective of the position of the switch. The stock module stays on till switched off which is probably why the defrost light is connected directly to the switch - to let the driver know they left the defroster on.
I find myself constantly turning on the defroster unintentionally, due to the position of the button.
It is an on-off latching switch.Good to know, thanks!
I did some more digging, and looking at the outline I posted before, I've tentatively uncovered two viable options, one that appears to fit, and one that would be very tight. With a bit of photoshop work (measuring one inch in pixels and resizing the grids appropriately), I've created the overlays below. Both units are sold by an eBay seller called bernmax (http://myworld.ebay.com/bernmax):
Option 1 - 4.1" wide by 3.2" tall (click for full size):
http://vin559.com/images/forums/dmctalk/heatedmirroroption1_640.jpg (http://vin559.com/images/forums/dmctalk/heatedmirroroption1.jpg)
[link to eBay ad (http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-MIRROR-GLASS-DEFOGGER-HEAT-GRID-4-1-x-3-2-/130796005248)]
Option 2 - 5.6" wide by 3.2" tall (click for full size):
http://vin559.com/images/forums/dmctalk/heatedmirroroption2_640.jpg (http://vin559.com/images/forums/dmctalk/heatedmirroroption2.jpg)
[link to eBay ad (http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-MIRROR-GLASS-DEFOGGER-HEAT-GRID-5-6-x-3-2-/130796005134)]
Option 2 seems to have the heating element outside the top and bottom mirror edges on the right side, so I wouldn't think that one would work. Option 1 seems like it might be a slight bit too big, however there is a bit of border that can be trimmed to (hopefully) make it the correct size.
DMC5180
11-24-2012, 08:07 PM
FWIW, You don't need a lot of heater element coverage on the glass. The heat will transfer throughout the glass. Besides do you really want to be driving the car in the conditions that warrant having them?
This coming from someone who has them on their car :biggrin:. At one time, a heated glass kit was available from a DMC owner (Tom N. from Poland) member name (Deloreana) about 7 yrs ago. He's dropped out of site for several years now. Mine run all the time, although one of these years I may convert them to be switchable with the defrost switch.
DrJeff
11-24-2012, 09:02 PM
Option 2 - 5.6" wide by 3.2" tall (click for full size):
http://vin559.com/images/forums/dmctalk/heatedmirroroption2_640.jpg (http://vin559.com/images/forums/dmctalk/heatedmirroroption2.jpg)
[link to eBay ad (http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-MIRROR-GLASS-DEFOGGER-HEAT-GRID-5-6-x-3-2-/130796005134)]
Option 2 could be modified to be less tall and less wide. The picture shows three circuits traced. The circuit that services the rightmost section of the mirror has lines running from the contacts that are routed across the top and bottom of the mat. It should be possible to cut out the rightmost section and the upper and lower runs back to the contacts. The mat would then fit within the height of the glass and could, if positioned right, cover most of the width.
FWIW, You don't need a lot of heater element coverage on the glass. The heat will transfer throughout the glass. Besides do you really want to be driving the car in the conditions that warrant having them?Cold mornings for me warrant the heaters. Condensation on the glass is regular occurrence in the spring and the fall, even frost sometimes. For me it's more a matter of melting this rain and frost as quick as possible so they become usable early on in my trip.
Option 2 could be modified to be less tall and less wide. The picture shows three circuits traced. The circuit that services the rightmost section of the mirror has lines running from the contacts that are routed across the top and bottom of the mat. It should be possible to cut out the rightmost section and the upper and lower runs back to the contacts. The mat would then fit within the height of the glass and could, if positioned right, cover most of the width.You'd think I would have thought of that considering I nicked one of my defroster lines and achieved this same effect. That would certainly be a much more comfortable fit if one were to go that route. Looks like that'll be the option I'll be going with when I get around to doing this. Thanks for the idea!
DrJeff
11-25-2012, 12:09 AM
I ordered mine for Option 2. They should be here mid-Dec. Another fun Delorean project to add to my Christmas list.
A dumb question and a suggestion:
If you use either of those two options, how are you guys going to handle the thickness of the connectors being sandwiched in there -- Just trim out the mounting plate?
Seems you could find one that was way too big, trim it off to fit ~100% and redo the traces with a repair kit, or, do the same to option 2 mentioned earlier...
15025
DrJeff
11-25-2012, 08:27 AM
Just trim out the mounting plate?
After a trial fit or two a dremel to the mounting plate should do the trick. I picked up a couple of pointers from similar projects on non-Ds. Their biggest challenge was routing wires back into the door through grommets not intended to carry them. I plan to do the usual write up, so if I mess it up we'll all know what not to do next time.
DMC5180
11-25-2012, 08:54 AM
I ran my 2 wires inside some small heat shrink sleeve. It was mostly for protection where it goes through the mirror pivot similar to the window motor wires. It also helped make it easier to fish the wires through things. The shrink I used was just large enough for the 2 wires. I did not need to shrink the sleeve. It was one of those just right fit things.
I plan to do the usual write up, so if I mess it up we'll all know what not to do next time.
:thumbup:
David T
11-25-2012, 03:08 PM
Rain X will make the water bead up, and if it does freeze, it will be easier to remove. It is not a substitute for a heated mirror but it may be just enough. Another option could be cameras.
David Teitelbaum
If you use either of those two options, how are you guys going to handle the thickness of the connectors being sandwiched in there -- Just trim out the mounting plate?1/4" drill bit or dremel, depending on how close to the edge it is. If I drill the holes, I'll feed the connector wires through the hole first, then shrink-wrap it to help prevent the entire unit from falling to the ground.
Seems you could find one that was way too big, trim it off to fit ~100% and redo the traces with a repair kit, or, do the same to option 2 mentioned earlier...
15025Seems a bit overkill to me, but considering I have another defroster I have to repair, I might give it a shot if that third area does in fact fit. It looks like there might be a bit of plastic on top of the heating element however, so there might need to be some stripping back of the plastic before being able to make contact.
I ran my 2 wires inside some small heat shrink sleeve. It was mostly for protection where it goes through the mirror pivot similar to the window motor wires. It also helped make it easier to fish the wires through things. The shrink I used was just large enough for the 2 wires. I did not need to shrink the sleeve. It was one of those just right fit things.Where did you route the wires between the mirror and the door? Did you share the same hole the power mirror wires use, or did you drill a new one?
Rain X will make the water bead up, and if it does freeze, it will be easier to remove. It is not a substitute for a heated mirror but it may be just enough.I apologize, I should've been clearer on why I was asking. I was looking into it for my windshield, hence the questions. Any type of Rain X in particular to use, or just any of them?
I plan to do the usual write up, so if I mess it up we'll all know what not to do next time.Sweet, thanks!
Bitsyncmaster
11-25-2012, 05:53 PM
I wonder how they apply the element on the rear window? My guess is they silk screen it on. You will need to get a good bonding glue to the glass mirror. Then the foam tape should hold the Mylar heating film to the plastic mount.
foam tapeI honestly do not know, but does foam tape survive the kind of temperature a mirror heater puts out? My rear defroster gets hot enough to evaporate water on contact with the glass. I'd imagine a mirror heater is even hotter considering how condensed the element's lines are.
DMC5180
11-25-2012, 06:41 PM
Where did you route the wires between the mirror and the door? Did you share the same hole the power mirror wires use, or did you drill a new one?
I ran the wires parallel with the mirror motor wires using all the same openings. I did put some very small tie-wraps along the run just to make it easy to work with one harness vs. two separate ones.
You will need to de-pin the 4 wires from the mirror motor connector housing. The connector housing will not fit through the door skin opening. I found it easier to pull the mirror completely off the door when doing the work. Also if you plan on using the mating 2-way connector in the door harness, you will also need for those wires to be de-pinned when fishing the wires through the door.
DMC5180
11-25-2012, 06:54 PM
I honestly do not know, but does foam tape survive the kind of temperature a mirror heater puts out? My rear defroster gets hot enough to evaporate water on contact with the glass. I'd imagine a mirror heater is even hotter considering how condensed the element's lines are.
Most mirror heater pads use ultra thin VHB adhesive tape. I used an ultra thin 3M VHB tape that I have available at my work. I got lucky on that one. Then the whole glass gets attached to the backing plate with conventional VHB tape.
I ran the wires parallel with the mirror motor wires using all the same openings. I did put some very small tie-wraps along the run just to make it easy to work with one harness vs. two separate ones.
You will need to de-pin the 4 wires from the mirror motor connector housing. The connector housing will not fit through the door skin opening. I found it easier to pull the mirror completely off the door when doing the work. Also if you plan on using the mating 2-way connector in the door harness, you will also need for those wires to be de-pinned when fishing the wires through the door.Thanks for the info! Is de-pinning as easy as using needle-nose pliers to pull off the connector and reattaching them like I think it is, or does it involve cutting the wires entirely and attaching new connectors?
Most mirror heater pads use ultra thin VHB adhesive tape. I used an ultra thin 3M VHB tape that I have available at my work. I got lucky on that one. Then the whole glass gets attached to the backing plate with conventional VHB tape.I had to google that one. Now I know VHB stands for "Very High Bond". Is this the foam tape Dave mentioned, or another method of attachment?
DMC5180
11-25-2012, 08:13 PM
Thanks for the info! Is de-pinning as easy as using needle-nose pliers to pull off the connector and reattaching them like I think it is, or does it involve cutting the wires entirely and attaching new connectors?
I had to google that one. Now I know VHB stands for "Very High Bond". Is this the foam tape Dave mentioned, or another method of attachment?
NO, De-pinning requires finesse and using a tiny flat blade screwdriver or pick tool to push the terminal retaining tabs inward in order for the terminal to be extracted from the housing.
There are many versions of VHB tape. The most common is the white or gray stuff found at hardware stores. Usually, the foam is 1/16 thick on that stuff. The ultra-thin is VHB adhesive film without the foam. It's only about .005 thick and is clear.
David T
11-25-2012, 08:19 PM
I only know of 2 things by Rain X. One is for rain (it makes it bead up and run off so you don't need wipers) the other is to prevent fogging inside. Both products work well. The only thing you need to remember is the glass needs to be clean before you apply them for them to work well.
David Teitelbaum
NO, De-pinning requires finesse and using a tiny flat blade screwdriver or pick tool to push the terminal retaining tabs inward in order for the terminal to be extracted from the housing.
There are many versions of VHB tape. The most common is the white or gray stuff found at hardware stores. Usually, the foam is 1/16 thick on that stuff. The ultra-thin is VHB adhesive film without the foam. It's only about .005 thick and is clear.Thanks again for the info! I'm pretty good at working with small objects, so hopefully the de-pinning isn't too hard.
I only know of 2 things by Rain X. One is for rain (it makes it bead up and run off so you don't need wipers) the other is to prevent fogging inside. Both products work well. The only thing you need to remember is the glass needs to be clean before you apply them for them to work well.I was looking at Rain X's website, but evidently I can't read; one of them is glass cleaner with rain repellent, the other just rain repellent. My bad, didn't realize it was the same thing.
DrJeff
11-25-2012, 09:01 PM
NO, De-pinning requires finesse and using a tiny flat blade screwdriver or pick tool to push the terminal retaining tabs inward in order for the terminal to be extracted from the housing.
I bought 2 2-wire "church window" connectors from BritishWiring.com to be able to stock-like tie into the existing unused wiring in the doors for mirror heaters. These connectors are bulky, buy you can withdrawal the pins (male and female) with a small screwdriver and a little finesse.
DrJeff
12-23-2012, 07:11 PM
Just one of the fun things to work on the D this holiday season is window mirror heaters.
Here is what I've figured out so far (at least how it is on my car)...
1. The light-green white (LGW) wire from fuse 9 only runs to the defroster switch, the mirror heater connectors (both doors), and the mirror controller switch. (this is consistent with the color wiring schematic).
2. The LGW runs to the heater connection on the driver's side and then runs to the mirror controller switch (the schematic shows the LGW running to the controller switch first and then to the mirror heater connection)
3. The ground wire at the Door Lock Module (DLM) does not exclusively run to the ground wire at the door lock solenoid in the door. The door lock module ground must join a common ground and then run to the ground in the door.
4. There is a junction in the LGW wires (3 wires) just under the console between the relay area and the defroster switch. It is likely that two of these wires are routed to the doors (LH and RH).
5. There appear to be two ground wires running to each door
What I don't yet know...
1. There is a ground wire junction in the driver's side door (4 wires connected). This would appear to provide ground for the door, the mirror heater, the mirror control switch. Is this connected to the ground at the door lock actuator?
2. Where does the ground wire from the door lock actuator terminate? The Ground Wire Schematic suggests that it terminates at the "Junction (Bulkhead Connectors)".
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So here's the plan...
A) To use the mirror heater connectors as intended, a new power source is needed for the mirror controller switch
---- To get the mirror controller switch off the line running to the mirror heaters
B) The new power source to the mirror controller switch can be the "unused" (when actuators replace solenoids) ground wire that terminates at the door lock actuators.
---- This would entail connecting the end of the replacement wire to a LGW line
C) Connect the output of the defrost relay (white-blue) to the LGW wire running into the doors
---- This will make the mirror heater connections switched on/off by the relay
So the big question is...
How to locate the other end of the ground wire that terminates at the door lock solenoid? People apparently have (re)used this wire as the trigger wire for door poppers so it must have a reachable termination in the cabin somewhere.
Thanks
Jeff
Tillsy
12-23-2012, 07:16 PM
Where does the ground wire from the door lock actuator terminate? The Ground Wire Schematic suggests that it terminates at the "Junction (Bulkhead Connectors)".
Above the relay compartment where the engine bay harness connectors are situated - there are two back there, one gathers amongst themselves (the two door solenoids are amongst those) and the other gathers and grounds direct to the chassis.
DrJeff
12-23-2012, 10:38 PM
Above the relay compartment where the engine bay harness connectors are situated - there are two back there, one gathers amongst themselves (the two door solenoids are amongst those) and the other gathers and grounds direct to the chassis.
Okay I found everything I needed once I got the rear wall removed. Just behind the rear side panels (near the top end of the speakers) are multiplugs (church window connectors) that connect to the wiring running into the roof and doors. On the passenger side I found the pin for the ground wire (black) running exclusively to the driver's side door lock solenoid. There is another multiplug on the driver's side (again near the top end of the speaker, mine was wedged in behind the trunk release). It contains a light-green white (LGW) wire that feeds power to the mirror heaters and the mirror controller (in both doors).
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So here's the plan...
0) Assumes you've fitted two wire door lock actuators (Toby's) so the ground wire to the door lock solenoid is no longer used
1) Disconnect the (light-green white) LGW wire from the door mirror controller (which comes from the driver's side mirror heater plug) and connect it to the ground (black) wire at the door lock solenoid.
2) Connect the black wire (Pin 1) at the multiplug on the Passenger's side to the LGW leading to the defroster switch.
[Steps 1 & 2 - splits the mirror controller from the same circuit as the mirror heaters]
3) Connect the LGW wire in the Driver's side multiplug to the output of the defroster relay. This will feed timed power to the mirror heaters.
Additional things I'm customizing...
4) Disconnect the white-black wire that runs from the stock defrost switch to the defrost bulb and instead connect it to the output of the defroster relay. This will cause the defrost light to be on only when heat is applied
5) Swap out the defroster relay for a modern timed unit that only keeps the power applied for 10 mins plus/minus. (see Euramtec.com)
6) Swap out the defroster switch for a momentary switch that simply triggers the relay to start timing.
So how this should behave...
- You press the defroster switch (the switch is only on for as long as you press it, then it disconnects)
- The defroster relay will output 12v for ~12minutes, the output will be fed to 1) rear window grid, 2) mirror heaters, 3) defroster bulb
- After ~12 minutes the defroster circuit will switch off, & bulb goes off
(no change to the function of the door mirror controller)
This is going to be quite a write up once I get the re-wiring of the relay documented!
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