Power windows shorted out

[bruscreen]

All three wires going to my driver's side window are shorted to ground, somewhere between the switch and the harness plugs under the T-panel. I want to narrow that down to the roof harness or interior wiring, but how can I access the bottom plug(s) for the roof harness? Parts diagrams look like there's a plug at the base of the B-pillars but I can't find any wires heading that way.

[Ron]

There is a plate on top of the roofbox under the T-Panel that has harness plugs for the doors...

There should only be two wires to each window motor...Dirver's side is Slate/Purple and Slate/Green.
IIRC, the wires are tied together and grounded by the switch until you press it one way or the other...so you might want to unplug them and measure/test run them from there if you haven't tried it.

EDIT: Double check this, but I just read where there are also plugs behind speaker panels (right for left and vice versa).

[DrJeff]

I had to take the window switches apart and clean the contacts to get the windows to go up down reliably. One switch would not operate at all, simply do to build up on the contacts.

[bruscreen]

I've had my window switches out and hooked to a multimeter, they seem to work fine. While I was in there, I connected the multimeter to the wire and got contact from the switch to the plug inside the door. Then I moved the door tester to a body panel, and still got a connection. So I pulled the roof off and did the same tests - the wire inside the door is not grounded, but from the roof to the window switch is.

The plug I'm looking at in the door has three wires, two slate with stripes (I forget the colors exactly) and one black. When it made contact with the window switch, I assumed it was the window wire, but now I know they're shorted out I could have grabbed something else...

Based on the wiring diagrams I've seen, there appears to be another connector behind the speaker somewhere, but I don't know how to access it. The speaker grill is part of a panel I haven't removed yet.

[MML]

I had to take the window switches apart and clean the contacts to get the windows to go up down reliably. One switch would not operate at all, simply do to build up on the contacts.

I think I'm going to have to do this. My windows are a bit iffy at times.

[bruscreen]

Finally found this thread again to update, I got the doors further apart and learned the following:

1) The wires I was looking at were for the door locks, one wire literally just grounds the door panel and the other two are grounded, presumably because the locks are shorted out.

2) Both switches are fine, at least they both register on the multimeter and one actually runs the motor sometimes (see 3 & 4)

3) The driver's side window motor is missing. I have the original style regulator with an empty hole where the motor goes, and electrical tape on the ends of the wires.

4) The passenger's side window was "off the track" (the glass was out of the metal bracket and the metal bracket was off the regulator.) The glass was held in place by big pieces of foam rubber. I got it back on track, but the motor is almost dead. It moves occasionally, if it feels like it. On the bright side, the door opens better without the weight of all that foam.

Someday, when I'm not spending all my money on the transmission for my daily driver, I'll have to pick up a new set of motors & regulators.