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Mrdashbo
06-20-2012, 03:50 PM
Hi all,

I'm in the middle of installing a new gearbox into my newly powder coated chassis. I am however in need of a few bits of info. In the parts manual and workshop manual info on the governor cable location and connection is limited also the two pipes that carry oil.

So here are my questions.

1. What does the governer cable connect to? Is it the micro switch at the throttle end?

2. What do the two oil pipes on the transmission connect to and what is this function?

3. The vacuum pipe on the left side what does is connect to. Seem like fairly simple things but once I've got a grasp on the basics I'm away! I'm fine with engine, body, electrics, manual trans, but auto is still a bit of a mistery.

Any help would be mucho appreciated.

Mike

WelmoedJ
06-20-2012, 04:13 PM
Hi all,

I'm in the middle of installing a new gearbox into my newly powder coated chassis. I am however in need of a few bits of info. In the parts manual and workshop manual info on the governor cable location and connection is limited also the two pipes that carry oil.

So here are my questions.

1. What does the governer cable connect to? Is it the micro switch at the throttle end?
This cable connects to the upper ring of the throttle spool (for the kick-down function) if that's on your car.
Otherwise you'll need to find one.
Pay attention to the adjustment of this cable otherwise the kick-down won't work properly.


2. What do the two oil pipes on the transmission connect to and what is this function?
These are the feed and return hoses of the transmission fluid cooler, installed inside the right hand side coolant pipe.



3. The vacuum pipe on the left side what does is connect to. Seem like fairly simple things but once I've got a grasp on the basics I'm away! I'm fine with engine, body, electrics, manual trans, but auto is still a bit of a mistery.
The vacuum pipe has a flex connection to the vacuum pressure regulator (left hand side of the gearbox).

Mrdashbo
06-20-2012, 04:20 PM
Great thanks for the reply.

The feed and return pipes do they connect to a unit in between? Still confused about that bit.

Mike

WelmoedJ
06-20-2012, 04:28 PM
Great thanks for the reply.

The feed and return pipes do they connect to a unit in between? Still confused about that bit.

Mike

Yes, that's the coolant pipe section that has the fluid cooler in it.
That piece of pipe has two connections (one in and one outgoing).
Use the workshop manual to see wich gearbox hose goes where.
I'm not able to recall that correctly, however the length of the hoses should lead you to the proper connection.

I did replace one of those hoses during my ownership of an automatic,.
If the box is in the car and that hose hasn't been removed for a long time, you're in for some fun.
Make sure you know some words from the unwritten book, you're going to use them ;)

Mrdashbo
06-20-2012, 05:04 PM
thanks its a brand new gearbox so should be ok i think

Delorean Industries
06-20-2012, 05:44 PM
Take the pump off the front and make sure the gear isn't seized.... I had an NOS trans fail this way.

Mrdashbo
06-21-2012, 11:02 AM
heres the hoses i was talking about wasnt sure what connect to these points?

Mike


11325

dmc6960
06-21-2012, 11:54 AM
heres the hoses i was talking about wasnt sure what connect to these points?
11325

Those connect to this pipe...

11328

Which is on the right hand side of the car. Exactly as Welmoed has been describing. Since the transmission is in the rear, it wasn't simple to put in a separate small radiator to cool it. Therefore it uses this liquid-liquid heat exchanger, which is jut a pipe within a pipe to cool the transmission. It uses the cooled engine coolant returning from the radiator. If your car does not have this you need to order it to do it right.
http://store.delorean.com/p-6305-at-oil-cooler.aspx

Mrdashbo
06-23-2012, 02:38 AM
To remove the pump is it just a case of unbolting the 5 out of 6 bolts? And pull it out?

Mike

WelmoedJ
06-23-2012, 05:08 AM
Those connect to this pipe...

11328

Which is on the right hand side of the car. Exactly as Welmoed has been describing. Since the transmission is in the rear, it wasn't simple to put in a separate small radiator to cool it. Therefore it uses this liquid-liquid heat exchanger, which is jut a pipe within a pipe to cool the transmission. It uses the cooled engine coolant returning from the radiator. If your car does not have this you need to order it to do it right.
http://store.delorean.com/p-6305-at-oil-cooler.aspx

I recall Grady offering a finned cover for this pipe to get better cooling for the transmission fluid.


MrDashbo:
To remove the pump is it just a case of unbolting the 5 out of 6 bolts? And pull it out?

As I never have gone through the motions of taking the pump off, I can't advise on that.

Ron
06-23-2012, 09:10 AM
To remove the pump is it just a case of unbolting the 5 out of 6 bolts? And pull it out?

MikeI wouldn't remove the pump on a new transmission -- Besides risking voiding the warranty, the input shaft is connected to the pump...unless the shaft is broke, if it turns, the pump gear(s) will turn.

Delorean Industries
06-23-2012, 09:32 AM
You need to remove the pump on the new transmission as I previous posted. Here is why: Brand new DMCH transmission seized. You can replace the pump drive shaft and pump with the transmission in car. I successfully snaked the shaft out into the frame tunnel through one of the frame access holes. Lots of fun.

Ron
06-23-2012, 09:55 AM
You need to remove the pump on the new transmission as I previous posted. Here is why: Brand new DMCH transmission seized. You can replace the pump drive shaft and pump with the transmission in car. I successfully snaked the shaft out into the frame tunnel through one of the frame access holes. Lots of fun.
Why not just turn the input shaft to see if it is seized???

Delorean Industries
06-23-2012, 10:08 AM
Why not just turn the input shaft to see if it is seized???

different metals cause corrosion inside the housing. After running for a very short time this scores the pump housing and seizes the unit. That test will only work for a totally seized unit. Who knows what is built up inside after sitting for so long and premature fail can and will occur. Regardless this part after 30 years must be removed and checked if it has never run before.

David T
06-23-2012, 10:29 AM
Always a concern with parts sitting on a shelf for an extended period of time. It can't hurt to check the pump but there could be other causes for premature pump failure. For instance, you replace a burnt unit and do not clean the oil lines, oil cooler or try to reuse the torque converter without cleaning it or having it rebuilt. That's a good trick, pulling the pump shaft out like that! It's about 3 feet long!
David Teitelbaum




different metals cause corrosion inside the housing. After running for a very short time this scores the pump housing and seizes the unit. That test will only work for a totally seized unit. Who knows what is built up inside after sitting for so long and premature fail can and will occur. Regardless this part after 30 years must be removed and checked if it has never run before.

Delorean Industries
06-23-2012, 10:36 AM
I'm replacing an auto gear box in a few weeks. I'm going to film the trick. It takes two people but it is much better then yanking a trans.

Mrdashbo
06-23-2012, 02:27 PM
I'm replacing an auto gear box in a few weeks. I'm going to film the trick. It takes two people but it is much better then yanking a trans.

Well now there's another reason for needing to open the transmission. Whist removing the oil pan to get to the gov sealed plug to fix it the damn spring clip shot off not sure if it fell inside the gearbox or sprung out. But I need to make sure before I mount the thing and run it!

Any suggestions ?..

Mike

Ron
06-23-2012, 04:13 PM
different metals cause corrosion inside the housing. After running for a very short time this scores the pump housing and seizes the unit. That test will only work for a totally seized unit. Who knows what is built up inside after sitting for so long and premature fail can and will occur. Regardless this part after 30 years must be removed and checked if it has never run before.
Here I thought seized meant total and/or sudden...learn something every day! :rolleyes:

Seriously, what do you do about the other parts throughout the unit where steel, aluminum, brass, cast, etc have been sitting together for 30 years? Not to mention the 30 year old seals, gaskets, o-rings...

Don't get me wrong...if it was mine and I couldn't rebuild it because my core was truly toast and I couldn't find another, I would tear it down (too?). But, why stop there if you don't trust it?

Mrdashbo
06-24-2012, 03:06 AM
So there seems to be different arguments for removing of the pump. But as a I have MAYBE
lost a spring clip in the I have to get the little bugger out. Am I to understand the the input drive shafts need to be removed before the pump will slide out?

I will be doing this soon to get the transmission off the workbench and on to my next job.

Mike