Replacing Water Pump Hints And Parts To Get

[kings1527]

Hey Guys,

It looks like I'll be undertaking the project of replacing the water pump. It looks labor intensive, but I need the practice with stuff like this. Does anyone have any tips/tricks for me?

Since I'm probably going to be doing this project at work, I want to have all the parts ready to go so I don't have to reorder something and wait around. Aside from the obvious water pump, what other parts am I going to find out that will need to be replaced while doing this job? I think I'll go with the water pump assembly K102119 from DMCH, which looks like it comes with a ton of stuff.

And also, while I have the manifold and W tube off, I'm probably going to sand blast and paint them to make them look nicer.

Furthermore, it looks like I have an oil leak coming from the crankcase/timing chain cover so I might as well tackle that one while I'm in there, right? Any tips for that?

Thanks again.

[jawn101]

Best time to do a major service, so get a kit for that...

http://store.delorean.com/p-10200-major-service-kit-mt.aspx (for manual trans, there's a different one for auto) - plugs, cap, rotor, wires, filters, O2 sensor, belts, timing cover gaskets. Also do a valvetrain adjustment, reset your lambda counter, clean your primary grounds, and replace the short water pump hoses in the valley. Inspect the valley carefully for block rot and clean all the debris out of the recesses (espcially the deep ones). Pressure test the coolant system before reinstalling the intake or you may find yourself doing the job over to seal up/clean out the leaks you missed on the pump back.

Might also consider replacing the main water pump hoses from the pump/thermostat to the carrier pipes, the thermostat, thermostat gasket, (and don't forget to flush and replace your coolant since the system is open) O-rings in the W-pipe... get the fuel injectors replaced, renew the fuel lines if they're original (and when working with fuel lines, you'll want new copper washers if yours are original too), get the injectors cleaned and spray tested...

The list goes on and on. Do it right or do it again. :)

Also just remembered the intake manifold O-rings and W-pipe paper gaskets

[jackb]

Where in Southern California are you? The water pump is next on my to do list, If your close enough, I'd like to come by as see/help...

[nullset]

Have you pulled the intake manifold before?

--buddy

[jawn101]

Just realized I may have sounded like I was saying you *have* to replace the injectors, which is totally not the case. Cleaned or replaced. They may be just fine!

This is a very big job, so as Buddy said... have you done any of this before? It sounds daunting and it is, the first time. But it gets easier and easier. :)

[kings1527]

Where in Southern California are you? The water pump is next on my to do list, If your close enough, I'd like to come by as see/help...

I'm down in LA. I'm not sure if that's in your wheelhouse.


Have you pulled the intake manifold before?

--buddy

No, I never have and I know that's where the most labor is.


Just realized I may have sounded like I was saying you *have* to replace the injectors, which is totally not the case. Cleaned or replaced. They may be just fine!

This is a very big job, so as Buddy said... have you done any of this before? It sounds daunting and it is, the first time. But it gets easier and easier. :)

Great ideas on doing a major service. This is the first major project that I'm going to undertake. And absolutely, it sounds incredibly daunting but it seems like no one single task is "complicated", it just seems like remembering where everything goes. I'm planning on labeling everything along the way and taking tons of pictures.

I know the job usually runs about $1200. But I feel like if I can tackle this project, there isn't a ton more that's this involved per se. It'd be a great confidence builder.

So my plan is

- Take my time
- Label everything
- Take lots of pics
- Don't reuse crush gaskets
- Pressure test the coolant system before putting the intake manifold back on (great idea)

[jackb]

I'm about 2 2/12 hours north of Hollywood. Not too far for a tech session, I've driven farther for one before, but unfortunately I'm really pressed for time the next few months. Please post how it goes and the pics when you're done!

[nullset]

Grab the guide to removing the intake manifold from the Resources section.

While you're in there, there's a lot you can choose to do, but mostly I would just inspect things and replace anything that's marginal.

PB blaster everything. Go slowly and try not to break any bolts.

You can do this without removing the fuel mixture unit if you're careful. You'll need to remove the lines that connect it to the tank, and the Cold Start valve, but you can leave the lines that go from the mixture unit to the injectors. Just unclip the injectors and remove them.

Replace the O-rings in the valley while you're in there. Hervey sells an intake manifold kit here:

http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/delorean-parts-kits.html

There's also a new set of copper crush washers on that same page. I'd get the Intake Manifold Removal kit at least.

Other vendors may have something similar.

You may want to consider replacing the various water pump related hoses. That's up to you. If they're old, it probably won't hurt to replace them.

Once you get good at it, you can have a manifold off in under an hour. The "Pipe of Agony" can be difficult, but take your time and you'll be fine.

I'd remove both the W pipe and the return pipe once you have the manifold off, and make sure they're not leaky or damaged. If they are, replace them.

Replace anything that looks iffy. Don't put rusted fasteners with dirty threads back on. Clean or replace. You don't want them to break next time.

Overall it's not a difficult job, if nothing breaks. You may want to get a thread repair kit of some sort in case you do break something. I'd suggest an M7 timesert kit, or a helicoil kit, but timeserts are better.

Take your time, take lots of pictures, don't lose anything! :)

--buddy

[mluder]

Just got my water pump kit from Special T auto in the mail today. It seems like a great option as it comes with all the o-rings, gaskets, and new bolts to replace everything you'll take off to get to the water pump.

While I'm in there I'm going to clean and paint the block and put on the refurbished valve covers and timing chain cover that I bought almost a year ago. Also replacing the cluth slave. Can't wait to start this project.

Cheers.
Steve

[kings1527]

Buddy - awesome info, thanks!!


I'm about 2 2/12 hours north of Hollywood. Not too far for a tech session, I've driven farther for one before, but unfortunately I'm really pressed for time the next few months. Please post how it goes and the pics when you're done!

I'll be sure to give a full report, but I definitely know I could use an extra set of hands! My plan is to take all of the info I've found on the board and either add to it or give a different perspective. But I think I'm pretty well prepared. From what people are saying, it's not hard but just a matter of keeping track of everything and keeping everything clean.


Just got my water pump kit from Special T auto in the mail today. It seems like a great option as it comes with all the o-rings, gaskets, and new bolts to replace everything you'll take off to get to the water pump.

While I'm in there I'm going to clean and paint the block and put on the refurbished valve covers and timing chain cover that I bought almost a year ago. Also replacing the cluth slave. Can't wait to start this project.

Cheers.
Steve

I was real impressed with that #1 kit. It has EVERYTHING in it and I like that. I'm going to go with the bolt-on pulley. Hervey said he's not going to do the bolt-ons anymore once he runs out since they were too expensive. I'm going to blast the manifold, W tube, and chain cover and then repaint them to make the whole thing look nicer in the engine compartment. And why not POR 15 the Valley of Death? Gotta do it at that point! I won't be breaking this thing down again like this unless I absolutely have to; and hopefully that's waaaaaay down the road.

Alex
6575

[TTait]

When taking it apart - take your time and make sure you don't break any bolts. Make sure to remove the copper tube from the idle speed motor down into the bottom of the mix unit before lifting out the mix unit.

When putting it together, take your time and make sure everything seats and seals well. Its all totally do-able. If you get frustrated, or break something, just take a break.

When its time to re-assemble - getting the copper tube in place can seem like a nightmare - its not. Get a good light, use a screwdriver to hold open the flap valve in the air assemvly so you can see down into it - then you can see with your left eye the tube heading into the hole, and the right eye see it coming through. Once you get the knack of it you can stab it in every time in seconds.

I'm in So-Cal - PM me if you get stuck. I'm not around the first week of july or so.

T

[DMCMW Dave]

Your biggest challenge will be breaking y-pipe or intake manifold bolts. Depends on the service/storage history of the car.

PS - I'm not a fan of painting the valley - It is extremely difficult to get it clean enough that the paint will stick forever, and when it gets loose it is worse than no paint at all.

Nicholas R - you out there? :smile:

[mluder]

Make sure to remove the copper tube from the idle speed motor down into the bottom of the mix unit before lifting out the mix unit.

When putting it together, take your time and make sure everything seats and seals well. Its all totally do-able. If you get frustrated, or break something, just take a break.

When its time to re-assemble - getting the copper tube in place can seem like a nightmare - its not. Get a good light, use a screwdriver to hold open the flap valve in the air assemvly so you can see down into it - then you can see with your left eye the tube heading into the hole, and the right eye see it coming through. Once you get the knack of it you can stab it in every time in seconds.

T

I have heard many a warning about the copper tube inthe mixture unit. IT makes me nervous. Is there anything in the workshop manual or K-Jettronic manual (I have both but haven't loked yet) that talks about it and how to reomove the mixture unit without dropping it?

Cheers.
Steve

[mluder]

And why not POR 15 the Valley of Death?

I have heard both sides on this. Some say do it, others say your asking for trouble. If the POR 15 doesn't adhere correctly you can end up trapping water under it and the you got real problems. The alternative is high temp enamel from a spray can. With proper prep, primer, color coat, and top coat it's supposed to be safer.

Anyone want to weigh in?

Cheers.
Steve

[DMCMW Dave]

With proper prep, primer, color coat, and top coat it's supposed to be safer.

Steve

That's the hard part. The deep holes are extremely difficult to get clean and dry with the engine in the car.

[mluder]

That's the hard part. The deep holes are extremely difficult to get clean and dry with the engine in the car.


What are your thoughts on paint vs POR 15, Dave?

Steve

[kings1527]

When taking it apart - take your time and make sure you don't break any bolts. Make sure to remove the copper tube from the idle speed motor down into the bottom of the mix unit before lifting out the mix unit.

When putting it together, take your time and make sure everything seats and seals well. Its all totally do-able. If you get frustrated, or break something, just take a break.

When its time to re-assemble - getting the copper tube in place can seem like a nightmare - its not. Get a good light, use a screwdriver to hold open the flap valve in the air assemvly so you can see down into it - then you can see with your left eye the tube heading into the hole, and the right eye see it coming through. Once you get the knack of it you can stab it in every time in seconds.

I'm in So-Cal - PM me if you get stuck. I'm not around the first week of july or so.

T

Thanks for the info and help, T. I appreciate it!


Your biggest challenge will be breaking y-pipe or intake manifold bolts. Depends on the service/storage history of the car.

Alex
6575

PS - I'm not a fan of painting the valley - It is extremely difficult to get it clean enough that the paint will stick forever, and when it gets loose it is worse than no paint at all.

Nicholas R - you out there? :smile:

Ok. I know the PO had my car sitting outside for quite some time, so the engine is pretty dirty. I'll see how it looks once I get the manifold out and go from there. With the manifold bolts, I think I'll start pre-treating the bolts with Break Free for a few days before I start the project. That stuff is amazing for freeing up rusted issues.

[DMCMW Dave]

What are your thoughts on paint vs POR 15, Dave?

Steve

I've seen POR15 peel right off. It seems to be forever on clean steel, but doesnt' stick to dirty aluminum.

[TTait]

I have heard many a warning about the copper tube inthe mixture unit. IT makes me nervous. Is there anything in the workshop manual or K-Jettronic manual (I have both but haven't loked yet) that talks about it and how to reomove the mixture unit without dropping it?

Cheers.
Steve

Just remove it after you have unhooked it from the idle speed motor. Its easier to leave the rubber hose attached to the copper tube, and remove the rubber elbow hose and copper tube together. That way the copper tube stays properly aligned to the rubber hose, and there is one less variable in hooking things up. Much easier to tighten the upper clamp where it attaches to the motor anyway as compared to the lower one that locks the hose onto the copper tube.

When its time to reassemble - for some reason it seems impossibly hard at first - don't know why.

Before you put the mix unit back in place, put the copper tube in it a few times and note the angle, etc. Make sure to replace the oring in the bottom of the air mix unit that seals around the copper tube.

I'm told some people put a very thin layer of grease on the end of the tube before installing it. Use a screwdriver to keep the flap open in the air mix unit, and it helps immensely with installing the copper tube.

The most frustrating part is that its actually painfully easy once you get the hang of it - but if your having trouble it seems impossible.

Don't sweat it - its doable - its just stupid how hard it seems versus how easy it really is.

As Dave said, your big worry is making sure you don't break off any bolts. Add to the list the ones that hold the throttle spool in place.

I've been in and out more times than I can count. If there are not siezed bolts is actually very easy...


Was about to close - but I do have one more great tip... If you are lucky enough to find an old volvo at your local you pick parts place (or an eagle premier or...) - Take your tools in and strip the top half of the engine down. You can practice on a throw away engine - and also take home some spare parts for really cheap.


Have fun - if your not having fun or if you hit a sticking point, just put the tools down and walk away... Come back later and things will go much better.

Tom

[mluder]

Just remove it after you have unhooked it from the idle speed motor. Its easier to leave the rubber hose attached to the copper tube, and remove the rubber elbow hose and copper tube together. That way the copper tube stays properly aligned to the rubber hose, and there is one less variable in hooking things up. Much easier to tighten the upper clamp where it attaches to the motor anyway as compared to the lower one that locks the hose onto the copper tube.

When its time to reassemble - for some reason it seems impossibly hard at first - don't know why.

Before you put the mix unit back in place, put the copper tube in it a few times and note the angle, etc. Make sure to replace the oring in the bottom of the air mix unit that seals around the copper tube.

I'm told some people put a very thin layer of grease on the end of the tube before installing it. Use a screwdriver to keep the flap open in the air mix unit, and it helps immensely with installing the copper tube.

The most frustrating part is that its actually painfully easy once you get the hang of it - but if your having trouble it seems impossible.

Don't sweat it - its doable - its just stupid how hard it seems versus how easy it really is.

As Dave said, your big worry is making sure you don't break off any bolts. Add to the list the ones that hold the throttle spool in place.

I've been in and out more times than I can count. If there are not siezed bolts is actually very easy...


Was about to close - but I do have one more great tip... If you are lucky enough to find an old volvo at your local you pick parts place (or an eagle premier or...) - Take your tools in and strip the top half of the engine down. You can practice on a throw away engine - and also take home some spare parts for really cheap.


Have fun - if your not having fun or if you hit a sticking point, just put the tools down and walk away... Come back later and things will go much better.

Tom

Good advice as always, Tom.

I'm actually kind of looking forward to this project. When donw I will not only have addressed some much needed repairs but I'm also going to tackle some cosmetic things that should go a long way to brightening up the engine bay.

I'm enlisting the help of my brother in law who is prety skilled. He put a new engine in his corvette by himself a few years ago so he knows his way around an engine compartment.

Cheers.
Steve