Can Someone Confirm This In Their Accumulator Cubby?

[Tillsy]

Hi guys,

I was about to replace my accumulator today (then noticed my existing one and its hoses look like they are pretty new anyway) and was a bit concerned by what I saw in the cubby hole.

Inside there are two access ports where the hard lines run (actually the photo reveals a third that I couldn't see, but anyways) - in there it seems the fibreglass shell is visible, but it looks wet. Almost as if fuel has been spraying in there.

When I poked a screw driver in there it was quite soft, I can actually push the first few millimetres worth of it around, but it doesn't appear to be wet. At least not now - I don't think my D has run for at least seven months.

Wondering if someone knows, or can check their cubby hole, if this is normal. The attached photo does not at all show what I could see, but have tried my best to point and describe it. Hoping perhaps there is a layer of protective membrane in there that is giving this appearance, because damn sorting anything at that level would be a frame off...

[Michael]

There is an access point to that area inside the cabin. You must remove the center console to get to a rectangular cover on the underbody which let's you change out the accumulater, or tighten the fittings. If they were leaking you would most likely smell it on the cabin, but the only way to be sure is watch them while the engine is running.

The glossy area my be a coating on the fiberglass or just a shiny spot. Fuel evaporates fairly quickly so if the car has not run I'm a few days then I doubt you are seeing fuel at all.

[Ron]

FWIW, it may be the angle of the pic or something but it looks like that 90 degree fitting is not square with the accumilator...I'd watch it first time I pressured the system up.

[thirdmanj]

There is an access point to that area inside the cabin. You must remove the center console to get to a rectangular cover on the underbody which let's you change out the accumulater, or tighten the fittings. If they were leaking you would most likely smell it on the cabin, but the only way to be sure is watch them while the engine is running.

The glossy area my be a coating on the fiberglass or just a shiny spot. Fuel evaporates fairly quickly so if the car has not run I'm a few days then I doubt you are seeing fuel at all.

Really? I had no idea! I just used that pain-in-the-ass access port under the car to change my accumulator, as a result I was concerned that my hose clamps on the new lines wouldn't be tight enough. Heh heh, learn something every day I guess!

[Spittybug]

Where is this reported "portal"? I just looked at all of my pictures from above and below and see no such access. The accumulator sits inside the frame, so are you saying that there is a hole through both the tub and the frame that gives you access to your accumulator in your car?

[Michael]

Where is this reported "portal"? I just looked at all of my pictures from above and below and see no such access. The accumulator sits inside the frame, so are you saying that there is a hole through both the tub and the frame that gives you access to your accumulator in your car?

Yes, it sits under the center console, approx where the ash tray is. I think its glued in place with silicone.

[DMCMW Dave]

Yes, it sits under the center console, approx where the ash tray is. I think its glued in place with silicone.

It only gives access to the fittings on top of the frame. The hole is maybe 2 x 4 inches. Take out the junk try in the back, lift up the decaying foam piece, and you'll see a shiny black plastic cover stuck in place, it is notched to go around the stud that holds the console in so you need to remove those two nuts and lift up the console too.

[Ron]

Where is this reported "portal"?

See Post 4 here (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3018-I-knew-something-like-this-would-happen)

[1batt4u]

This whole time I thought the accumulator rests on the side of the frame!! Went looking for it, it is inside the frame!! Tight space to work in!!! Luckily I do have the whole interior apart to get to the access point!!! :-)

[DMCMW Dave]

This whole time I thought the accumulator rests on the side of the frame!! Went looking for it, it is inside the frame!! Tight space to work in!!! Luckily I do have the whole interior apart to get to the access point!!! :-)

Under normal circumstances you NEVER need to go at it frome above. This is only for access if you are taking the fittings apart (never do this!) or someone else tried to take the fittings apart and kinked the fuel line.

[thirdmanj]

Under normal circumstances you NEVER need to go at it frome above...

That's what she said.

[1batt4u]

Under normal circumstances you NEVER need to go at it frome above. This is only for access if you are taking the fittings apart (never do this!) or someone else tried to take the fittings apart and kinked the fuel line.

Thanks for the tip!! Good thing haven't worked on it yet!!

[1batt4u]

How long does it take switch the accumulator??

I have a new one ready, rear car is on ramps, I can crawl right under!

[DMCMW Dave]

How long does it take switch the accumulator??

I have a new one ready, rear car is on ramps, I can crawl right under!

How good a mechanic are you? Have you done it before? Will you bend the fuel lines that go above/to the side of the frame? Will you scratch one of the hose barbs while cutting off the old hose and cause a leak? Do you have the right tools? How strong are your hands?

If everthing goes right, 1-2 hours on a lift. Not sure about jack stands.

[David T]

They can be done in as little as 15 minutes if everything goes smoothly. I break the hard line loose at the angle fitting and drop the accumulator out the hole to do the other 2 lines and then put them onto the new one and place the accumulator back into the frame and do the hard line. You MUST always 'hold back" with a back-up wrench so you do NOT twist the hard lines when loosening or tightening. You also do not want to leave a lot of twist on the hoses when tightening. Do this in a well ventilated area because you will be spilling a little fuel and use eye protection. You should do the accumulator BEFORE you do the fuel filter. A bad accumulator will send small bits of the black rubber diaphram into the system and they will "accumulate" in the filter. You want to be extremely careful not to kink, twist, bend cross-thread, or otherwise damage the hard lines. Unless you replace the damaged pipes with hoses you have to remove the body to get the hard lines out and back in. Now you have taken a small job and turned it into one of the biggest jobs you can do on a Delorean! Replacing the accumulator is done from underneath. You need small, strong hands and short wrenches.You will also improve your vocabulary by the time you are done. Double check for fuel leaks after you think you are done.
David Teitelbaum

[Bitsyncmaster]

Working under the car, Back end on ramps and front jacked up, it took me about two hours. I did what Dave T does, and dropped the accumulator so I can get to the lines not accessible when it's mounted.

[Jacko]

It hurt to read that thread .... Be warned, changing the fuel accumulator is in the same category as replacing the clutch slave ... a blue bitch. There is little room to work and doing this on your back makes it worse. After foolishly ruining the connection on the hard line I had to run a new hose from the tank to the accumulator. That part wasn't all that bad. I just used assorted screwdrivers, levers, etc. to make room for the hose in the space between the body and frame. I used a couple of wire ties to secure the hose. When I started putting it back together I decided there was no way I'd be able to get the hard fuel line started and tightened in that limited space so I had a new fuel hose made that I connected to the hard line then made all the connections to the accumulator while it was hanging outside the frame. When all was tightened and tested I crammed the accumulator and hoses in the cavity and all appears well.

It's painful to talk about ... :giddy:

[Nicholas R]

Go to the nearest harbor freight and buy this:
-Either a set of stuby metric wrenches or a cheap metric wrenches and cut them in half
-set of cheap line wrenches and cut them in half
-stubby 1/4" drive socket wrench

you'll be glad you did.

$20 worth of tools and will save you so much hassle...

[Tillsy]

That guys, especially Dave, sounds like what I am seeing in those two small openings inside the accumulator cubby hole is a soft plastic peel-able membrane for above access to the lines? Therefore the wet style appearance, and soft feel, I found is very likely normal.

I will be pressuring her up, and hopefully starting her for her first time in 6-7 months, today so will keep an eye on it just to be sure.

[1batt4u]

So yesterday I started on the fuel accumulator!!

Started removing the 4 10mm bolts! Removed 3, the other one is not coming off!! I tried reaching in there, tried to feel the nut if it is turning and keeping bolt from coming off. Nut is not turning! I have no idea why the bolt is just turning and not coming out!! Weird!! Any ideas??

I don't have stuby wrenches! I went around to 3 different stores, no one has!! Sucks!! I actually have 3 wrenches that are both 17mm and 19mm on same wrench, open wrench! I guess I'll cut one of them, then I'll have half 17mm and half a 19mm

I came across this page and following his ways!
http://jason.kitcarmagazine.com/delorean/fuelaccum.htm

Yesterday when I tried the normal length wrenches, there was no space for the wrench to grab onto the nuts! Any idea??

[Jacko]

So yesterday I started on the fuel accumulator!!

Started removing the 4 10mm bolts! Removed 3, the other one is not coming off!! I tried reaching in there, tried to feel the nut if it is turning and keeping bolt from coming off. Nut is not turning! I have no idea why the bolt is just turning and not coming out!! Weird!! Any ideas??

I don't have stuby wrenches! I went around to 3 different stores, no one has!! Sucks!! I actually have 3 wrenches that are both 17mm and 19mm on same wrench, open wrench! I guess I'll cut one of them, then I'll have half 17mm and half a 19mm

I came across this page and following his ways!
http://jason.kitcarmagazine.com/delorean/fuelaccum.htm

Yesterday when I tried the normal length wrenches, there was no space for the wrench to grab onto the nuts! Any idea?? Like I said ... it's a Blue Bitch!

[DMC5180]

So yesterday I started on the fuel accumulator!!

Started removing the 4 10mm bolts! Removed 3, the other one is not coming off!! I tried reaching in there, tried to feel the nut if it is turning and keeping bolt from coming off. Nut is not turning! I have no idea why the bolt is just turning and not coming out!! Weird!! Any ideas??

I don't have stuby wrenches! I went around to 3 different stores, no one has!! Sucks!! I actually have 3 wrenches that are both 17mm and 19mm on same wrench, open wrench! I guess I'll cut one of them, then I'll have half 17mm and half a 19mm

I came across this page and following his ways!
http://jason.kitcarmagazine.com/delorean/fuelaccum.htm

Yesterday when I tried the normal length wrenches, there was no space for the wrench to grab onto the nuts! Any idea??


You have a stripped bolt thread in the nut. It's not the first time I've seen that. You will need to drill the head off. Then go at removing what is left once you have the accumulator out.

Btw: Once you get the nut off from the Hard line you will probably need to rotate the accumulator down to break the line free. Work it back and forth till comes off. It can be quite stiff to break loose.

[Jacko]

Following this thread and others dealing with the fuel accumulator I am moved to ask this question ... why put it in the center of frame? ... with half the space needed? I guess there is an answer but it needs to be a good one.:raveon:

[jawn101]

Following this thread and others dealing with the fuel accumulator I am moved to ask this question ... why put it in the center of frame? ... with half the space needed? I guess there is an answer but it needs to be a good one.:raveon:

I've often wondered exactly the same thing about the fuel filter. I can understand maybe thinking the accumulator would be a "lifetime" part in theory, but the fuel filter? That's a regular maintenance item and is in a horrible spot! :)

[1batt4u]

You have a stripped bolt thread in the nut. It's not the first time I've seen that. You will need to drill the head off. Then go at removing what is left once you have the accumulator out.

Btw: Once you get the nut off from the Hard line you will probably need to rotate the accumulator down to break the line free. Work it back and forth till comes off. It can be quite stiff to break loose.

Actually its no big deal with the bolt. Since the other are off I can turn the plate to the side, the accumulator has room to come out! :thumbup:

Now gotta see how to unbolt the lines! Gonna try later!

[1batt4u]

I actually got it out, no problem, very easy and fast!!!

I did have to cut one of the lines on top, because it was impossible to unbolt the line! Looks like I can use new lines, these are very worn out, and it seem like they have kinks on them. I wanted to know, can I replace them with silicone lines, both top and bottom?? NO problem in using silicone hoses for fuel? I have new ones laying around.

[DMC5180]

I would stick with normal SAE Fuel Injection hose. It's cheap and readily available at your local Ap store. (6MM-1/4) size. I do use unreinforced silicone vacuum hose on vapor lines, but that is different than pressurized liquid.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Silicon hose and gasoline do not mix. You can prove it by cutting a one inch piece of hose and stick it in gas. It will swell about twice the size. Anyway you want a hose rated for 75 PSI or higher working pressure.

[1batt4u]

I bought my fuel accumulator from John Hervey close to a year ago. Was I supposed to get hoses as well?

[David T]

The accumulator does not come with hoses unless they are ordered separately. It's easy to figure out why things are where they are. You just have to remember all of these parts went onto the frame BEFORE the body was installed. It's all about building the car quickly, not making it easy to work on! The good thing about this is that these parts do last a long time and do not usually go bad till they get old. If you do enough of them you get better and faster at it. Besides, there are a lot of other jobs and parts on the Delorean that are a LOT harder to do!!!!
David Teitelbaum

[DMCMW Dave]

The accumulator does not come with hoses unless they are ordered separately.

Depends on how you order it:

http://store.delorean.com/p-10418-fuel-accumulator-kit.aspx

[1batt4u]

So I got the new hoses!!

How to take the old ones off now?? I was under there, wanted to cut off the hoses, but no room and nothing sharp enough to cut the material over the hoses.

What do you guys recommend??

[1batt4u]

Anyone?

[DMCMW Dave]

Anyone?

Razor blade.

[Tillsy]

I used a Stanley knife to slice off my old fuel hoses from the front hard lines when I installed the new fuel pump kit - so same answer as Dave.

I sliced repeatedly on the same spot, progressively pushing harder, until I felt it touch metal - then pulled the old hose off.

Would be a little more awkward inside the confines of the accumulator cubby but I would do the same thing in there.

[1batt4u]

Cool! Thank you guys for the info!!