Sticky throttle!

[82DMC12]

Hey all, Just wrapping up the restoration of 11114. One problem I haven't spent much time on yet is a sticky throttle. If you drive gently and slowly let off the gas with the clutch in, such as when coasting to a stop, most of the time the throttle gets stuck at around 1300 rpm. If you tap the gas it drops back down to idle. I've had it stuck, then I get out, open the engine bay, and the spool is about 3 mm away from the stop. I can then barely turn the throttle back to the stop and it idles fine.

I have slackened the throttle cable so i know that's not hanging up. I have totally disassembled the spool and cleaned and greased it. Greased the linkage ends. Turned the return spring to the tighter notch. Anyone know what the problem is? I'm sure I'll figure it out when I look at it again tonight but just thought I'd throw the question out there in case the solution is not so obvious.

Andy

[Bitsyncmaster]

Pull the clamp that holds the cable on the valve cover. Mine had worn through the cover on the cable and made the metal cable sheath rust.

But sticking throttle is a common problem. You may want to get the lower pressure idle switch John sells and up the spring pressure on the throttle spool.

[Iznodmad]

Remove the inner cable, spray with brake cleaner and wipe off with towel. Place towel in floorboard and shoot the cleaner through the outer cable so it comes to the footwell and onto the towel. Reinstall and it should work better, especially if you see all kinds on gunk and buildup on the inner cable.

[82DMC12]

Remove the inner cable, spray with brake cleaner and wipe off with towel. Place towel in floorboard and shoot the cleaner through the outer cable so it comes to the footwell and onto the towel. Reinstall and it should work better, especially if you see all kinds on gunk and buildup on the inner cable.

Nice. Maybe some silicone spray afterwards. Or liquid graphite?

Andy

[Iznodmad]

Nice. Maybe some silicone spray afterwards. Or liquid graphite?

Andy

I wouldn't see anything wrong with a little silicone spray afterwards. If VIN 11114 had the throttle "updates" as recommended by the factory that included the antifreeze mixture being put in the throttle cable, then this is likely what is causing some issues. I don't think the factory thought about what 30 years of antifreeze in a cable sheath would do eventually.

[82DMC12]

I wouldn't see anything wrong with a little silicone spray afterwards. If VIN 11114 had the throttle "updates" as recommended by the factory that included the antifreeze mixture being put in the throttle cable, then this is likely what is causing some issues. I don't think the factory thought about what 30 years of antifreeze in a cable sheath would do eventually.

Yes it had the recall done, but during the engine work I removed the plastic nipple and the black throttle shield because I think it looks tacky. I'm sure you are right.

Andy

[David T]

I would relubricate the throttle cable with anti-freeze as per the recall. The way I do it is to disconnect the inner and outer cables, slide a hose over the outer cable and secure with a hose clamp. Fill the hose with anti-freeze and then attach a hose connected to compressed air to shoot the anti-freeze in till I see it by the pedal. Keep a rag on the carpet to absorb the anti-freeze that comes out. Your main problem though is not this. It is looseness (play) in the rod ends of the quadrant link between the throttle spool and the throttle arm. Lengthen it. It works like a turnbuckle with left hand and right hand threads. You should also put some oil on the rod ends. You can also lubricate the throttle shaft.
David Teitelbaum





Yes it had the recall done, but during the engine work I removed the plastic nipple and the black throttle shield because I think it looks tacky. I'm sure you are right.

Andy

[Delorean Industries]

Your problem most likely likes at the actual throttle plate pivot point. The metal rod that contains the two adjustment screws for your micro switch and ball stud is attached to a brass component. Check to see if you have any slop at this point. There is a steel 13mm lock nut that attaches on the brass threads. If this is slightly loose you can see a throttle rpm pop up issue. Tightening the nut will only make it worse.

[DMCMW Dave]

I would relubricate the throttle cable with anti-freeze as per the recall.

I really don't get this. Have you seen what anti-freeze looks like sitting in air for just a few weeks? Not something I really want on my throttle cable.

I have no idea what the factory guys were thinking here, other than it is better than plain water in the middle of winter when the customer comes in what a frozen cabler, and they were not worried about what happened a few years out.

[Delorean Industries]

I really don't get this. Have you seen what anti-freeze looks like sitting in air for just a few weeks? Not something I really want on my throttle cable.

I have no idea what the factory guys were thinking here, other than it is better than plain water in the middle of winter when the customer comes in what a frozen cabler, and they were not worried about what happened a few years out.

Agreed. I tend to leave that part out....

[82DMC12]

Dummy alert. Turned out the top spring was 180 degrees too loose so it basically wasn't doing anything. It was probably REALLY loose before I moved it to the tighter setting a couple days ago. I don't know how that happened because I obviously know better. I also had a little issue with the stop screws which I rectified and it is working much better now and idling right at 775.

Of course not long after that the alternator went out.

Working on this car is like deja vu when I was going though these things on my own car! Hopefully be finished with it by this time next week!

I also got the A/C charged up on it today. We totally replaced the A/C system except for the evaporator and the condenser. New spliced barrier hoses, variable orifice valve, new switches, dryer, compressor, everything. 2 lbs R134a and this is a nice cold car again.

Andy

[dmc6960]

It been awesome to watch the progress on this car. Great work Andy! Also a great wake up call for those who don't realize how much work a barn car needs.

[82DMC12]

It been awesome to watch the progress on this car. Great work Andy! Also a great wake up call for those who don't realize how much work a barn car needs.

Thanks! I got really lazy updating the original thread though. My bad. I just got on a roll and forgot to take pics. I've only mentioned on here half the stuff I've had to deal with. When I'm all done I'll make a comprehensive post to close it up detailing costs and how many hours I have into it.

No doubt, a barn car is expensive. It's not just "wipe out the tank, new battery, turn the key". This should be a huge wakeup call to anyone naive to think that - and I haven't even had to deal with body damage, frame rot, or engine rot. This car is actually LUCKY. I'm just chasing the last couple issues now.... I hope.

Andy

[DMC5180]

Andy,

Did you have have any issues installing the Split AC hoses? Any tips or tricks needed to fish the hose though. Someone was have trouble with this recently and posted a thread about. I just wondered what you experienced. It's on my TO DO list later this year.


Btw: I passed through Fargo earlier this week. Twice in 3 days. Went camping out in Theodore Roosevelt NP. On the way back We got off 94 and drove the 94 Business route. It was just before dark though. I thought about looking you up but it was really late in the day. Anyway I've Never been uptown before. We were very IMPRESSED and Then we crossed the NEW bridge over the River to Moorhead NOT so impressed there.

[82DMC12]

Hi Dennis,

I found the spliced A/C hoses fairly straight-forward to install. I made sure to look at the routing of the old ones first so I could try to keep things where they belong and make the right bends. The driver's side high pressure hose (narrower diameter) was pretty easy to push through. I did use a small pry bar with a pointed punch end on it to help the end fitting over the welded nuts on the tank plate.

The passenger side was much more difficult. I had the back end on ramps and the front end lifted up on jack stands placed under the body at the jack points. I do believe this flexed the tub outwards slightly. But there was very little clearance and I'm sure I spent an hour fishing that one through. I used a pry bar to gain a couple extra millimeters at the welded nuts. The nuts are where all the problem lies because the fitting keeps getting stuck against them.

I went from the front and pushed towards the back. Not sure if the other way would have made a difference. In the end I think it took me about 6 hours to replace all the hoses, compressor, accumulator, VOV, etc. About what I expected. It was tough but doable.

Of course afterwards I zip-tied the heck out of everything to keep it in place. Where the hoses go up the frame along side the trailing arm covers, they are held on by zip ties that snap into the frame from the factory. I only had regular ties but with enough of them I think I got it fairly tight so it won't rattle around. I'm happy with the way it turned out.

Here is what the accumulator and compressor look like now:

11678
11677

Yup, Fargo has really been improving downtown. Moorhead is terrible though, that city wouldn't even exist if it weren't for Fargo. Look me up next time you are nearby!

Andy