Delorean Back From The Dead

[nick@nite]

I drove my DeLorean, has to have been at least 15 years since it was last driven. Not many issues but one big problem was the brakes need to be slammed all the way down to work. I checked the hydraulic fluid and there seems to be plenty in there, the mechanic checked all the brakes and they were good. Is there something simple I can do to fix this problem?

Also the AC needs to be recharged, I was planning on using Freeze 12 and avoid the AC conversion. Have any of you used this refrigerant before?

The doors need a major overhaul, the electric lock makes it almost impossible to unlock the car doors. Also the power windows don't work, I believe I hear a click from the power window when I close the circuit. I am thinking it needs to be lubed up or possibly take a power supply and send power directly to it?

Any Thoughts?

[thirdmanj]

Damn misleading thread title!! I thought this was about John Z DeLorean comming back as a zombie!!


No really, that's awesome man!! As a temporary fix you can turn your automatic door locks into manual by disconnecting this little red wire in the fuse box area. Lemme know if you need a picture.

[Nicholas R]

yea I definitely expected a restoration thread, lol.

Did your mechanic actually bleed the brakes or just look at them? Most brake inspections by mechanics are "visual inspections" meaning they just look at them. If bleeding them doesn't work you may need a new master cylinder.

If the windows dont work and you're hearing a click, you probably need new window motors. Power is getting to them, just nothing is happening.

I've never heard good things about freeze 12. Any reason why not to use R-12? It's not as though it isn't available at all.

[dmc6960]

What about your fuel system?!? Please say that its been drained, flushed, and filled with fresh gas! 15 years is just too long.

[nick@nite]

yea I definitely expected a restoration thread, lol.

Did your mechanic actually bleed the brakes or just look at them? Most brake inspections by mechanics are "visual inspections" meaning they just look at them. If bleeding them doesn't work you may need a new master cylinder.

If the windows dont work and you're hearing a click, you probably need new window motors. Power is getting to them, just nothing is happening.

I've never heard good things about freeze 12. Any reason why not to use R-12? It's not as though it isn't available at all.

I don't know if they actually bled the braking system, I know they replaced some of the calipers and at the moment the parking brake doesn't work.

I suspected that I need new motors but I was hoping it might be something electrical for a quick fix, driving around in a car with windows that can't come down and no AC during the summer kinda sucks.

I heard mixed reviews on freeze 12 but the majority found it worked good, I am trying to hunt down an AC repair place that does the R-12 that I can trust. No way I'm taking it to meineke, and I would be surprised if they do R-12.

[nick@nite]

What about your fuel system?!? Please say that its been drained, flushed, and filled with fresh gas! 15 years is just too long.

The entire fuel system was rebuilt and the old gas was dumped. The only thing that wasn't replaced was the tank. One of the prior owners was an idiot and used radiator hose in the gas line. The hose turned into jelly and as soon as it was taken out it turned rock hard.

[nick@nite]

Damn misleading thread title!! I thought this was about John Z DeLorean comming back as a zombie!!


No really, that's awesome man!! As a temporary fix you can turn your automatic door locks into manual by disconnecting this little red wire in the fuse box area. Lemme know if you need a picture.

Thanks Man!

I have the shop manual but that sounds simple enough, if you do have a picture handy that definitely wouldn't hurt

[DMCMW Dave]

[QUOTE=Nicholas R;63810]Did your mechanic actually bleed the brakes or just look at them? Most brake inspections by mechanics are "visual inspections" meaning they just look at them. If bleeding them doesn't work you may need a new master cylinder.
QUOTE]

Mechanics are not used to inspecting brakes that have not moved in 15 years. You have a combination of stuck pistons and plugged rubber lines. No quick fix, do it right. This is your brakes.

[Michael]

Although I will not mention things that need to be gone over and checked before putting a car sitting 15 yrs. back in service, I can say that freeze 12 has always done exceptional in my cars. I had a '89 Accord as a D.D. that I used Freeze 12 in and the AC worked perfectly(38 degrees on a hot day). It is in my Delorean right now and has always done just fine. Its a great drop in replacement and I would go that route before changing over to 134....although my guess is that it will not stay in there long, your AC seals are most likely shot.

[nick@nite]

[QUOTE=Nicholas R;63810]Did your mechanic actually bleed the brakes or just look at them? Most brake inspections by mechanics are "visual inspections" meaning they just look at them. If bleeding them doesn't work you may need a new master cylinder.
QUOTE]

Mechanics are not used to inspecting brakes that have not moved in 15 years. You have a combination of stuck pistons and plugged rubber lines. No quick fix, do it right. This is your brakes.

When I bring it back on Monday I'll ask him to look more into it and check out the pistons, lines, master cylinder, etc. Thanks for the advice!

[nick@nite]

Although I will not mention things that need to be gone over and checked before putting a car sitting 15 yrs. back in service, I can say that freeze 12 has always done exceptional in my cars. I had a '89 Accord as a D.D. that I used Freeze 12 in and the AC worked perfectly(38 degrees on a hot day). It is in my Delorean right now and has always done just fine. Its a great drop in replacement and I would go that route before changing over to 134....although my guess is that it will not stay in there long, your AC seals are most likely shot.

How many cans of Freeze 12 did it take ya? This is what I ordered

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C50GKW/

[D Knight]

Freeze 12 cannot be used with existsting R12. It must be evacuated and flushed. It can however be mixed with the mineral oil used in R12 systems. Do not mix the two.

[Michael]

Freeze 12 cannot be used with existsting R12. It must be evacuated and flushed. It can however be mixed with the mineral oil used in R12 systems. Do not mix the two.

yeah I thought that went without saying.

I cant remember what the D took, but it should be on the compressor. Just convert lbs. to oz. I think it takes 42oz(about 3.5 12oz cans)

[82DMC12]

More like 2 to 2.2 lbs.

[DeMopar]

I have used Freeze-12 in many older vehicles with great success. Some say not to add to R-12, while others say it's fine to do so. I am not an expert in this area, but I did it years ago on another car make and it worked for me. If your car hasn't run in 15 years, I will say that it would probably be a good idea to suck it down and see if the system will hold vacuum first. Better than testing with refrigerant-no matter which you use. They are all expensive!

[DeMopar]

More like 2 to 2.2 lbs.

So just under 3 cans?

[82DMC12]

I just filled a system with 2 lbs (2 cans) R134. It's working great. Charge could be slightly different with Freeze 12.

[DeMopar]

I just filled a system with 2 lbs (2 cans) R134. It's working great. Charge could be slightly different with Freeze 12.

Freeze-12 cans are 12 oz.

[Ron]

Freeze 12 cannot be used with existsting R12. It must be evacuated and flushed. It can however be mixed with the mineral oil used in R12 systems. Do not mix the two.

FWIW, Freeze 12 was designed to be a R12 drop in replacement, it is compatible with all components. It will work fine, but it is now illegal to mix ANY refrigerants in your system via the EPA to "prevent cross-contamination of refrigerants". Note they have deemed cross contaminated mixes as hazardous waste! A deep evacuation is required.
Flushing the system is not necessary for a Freeze 12 change over alone (But definitely a good SOP). At that point you would need a new Accumulator (dryer), so you might as well go 134a (Note permanent port adapters and a label are EPA requirements. Also 134a needs a different accumulator (different desiccant inside), PAG oil, and usually a pressure/cycle switch or adjustment.)

[82DMC12]

Oops, yeah 134a cans are 12oz too.

[DMC5180]

What determines the "So Called" Capacity or recommended Charge volume. I know the General rule is to use 85% the charge volume of R12 (2.25 lb) when doing the 134a conversion that's (1.91 lb). What determines the Charge Volume of any given system? Is it strictly pressure or a combination or system volume too.

Here is another question. When you see the quick charge 134a cans with a built in gauge, How do you read it? (system running or static off). What I mean, is there a point where it should show a steady pressure in the Blue zone. When our system is running, the Pressure is cycling up and down via the pressure switches in a (fixed orifice cycling type) Does is it read differently an Expansion valve type system? When you are doing a top off and you don't know how much is left in the system, how do determine that right amount? Short of it's blowing COLD again so I guess its good.

Sorry if this has gone off topic.