Clearance needed for Body off frame roll out?

[DrJeff]

How high off the ground does the body have to be lifted to allow the frame, suspension, and engine to roll out from underneath?

I am playing with the idea of a MaxJax or something similar, but if they can't get the body lifted sufficiently high then the value of a 2-post system is diminished. MaxJax lists 45 to 48 inches as it's max lift height.

[vwdmc16]

that should be more than enough. You do not need to lift it over the engine, you can pull the chassis out the back of the car so the tallest part to clear becomes the shifter.

[DMCMW Dave]

How high off the ground does the body have to be lifted to allow the frame, suspension, and engine to roll out from underneath?

I am playing with the idea of a MaxJax or something similar, but if they can't get the body lifted sufficiently high then the value of a 2-post system is diminished. MaxJax lists 45 to 48 inches as it's max lift height.

Isn't a maxjax narrower than the car, i.e. if roll the frame out you would hit the jack with the tires?

I have not measured it for sure but I wouldn't be suprised if the radiator is taller than the shifter when installed on the frame. But either can be removed in the car, and if you want to lower the car a bit more to clear a lift you can pull the tires off and use dollies.

[DMC5180]

Actually the MAX JACK posts are outside the body lines the car is 44 in tall. 45-48 lift height should easily clear. The only thing you might roll over is the hydraulic hose connecting the two sides if it's under the car.

http://www.maxjaxusa.com/

[nullset]

You can remove the shifter knob to make it easier. You can also remove the wheels and put the body/frame on dollys if you want to not have to lift it as far.

Sean (May he non-delorean in peace) did this by himself with one jack. But he was special.

--buddy

[Rich W]

How high off the ground does the body have to be lifted to allow the frame, suspension, and engine to roll out from underneath?

I am playing with the idea of a MaxJax or something similar, but if they can't get the body lifted sufficiently high then the value of a 2-post system is diminished. MaxJax lists 45 to 48 inches as it's max lift height.

I have a full rolling chassis in one of my enclosed trailers, in storage, but I will not be able to get the measurements until this weekend.
I may post the three measurements here, for reference, even if they may not be needed by DrJeff by later this week.

Highest point of installed stock PRV, highest point of front of complete, stock rolling chassis (at radiator?) and height at top of shifter knob.

Later,
Rich W.

[82DMC12]

Rich, I would like to know those numbers. Thanks.

Andy

[Nicholas R]

Damn, I wrote this down somewhere recently too!

It depends on how you do it. If you use the cinder blocks/4x4's methods then you'll have to clear the shifter, otherwise the concern is only the radiator.

When I separated I just jacked the entire car up and supported it via the jackpoints on the body. Then I put jacks under the frame, disconnected the body/frame bolts, and lowered the frame out. Only thing I had to clear was the radiator. The shifter had plenty of room as it rode in the channel in the center of the body.

When I rejoined the two however, I jacked the body WAY into the air supported by 4x4s, rolled the frame under, then removed the 4x4s and dropped the body back onto the frame. That time the shifter had to clear the 4x4s going across.

[dmcjohn]

If you don't remove the filler neck from the tank that'll be the highest point - but of course it's easy to remove.

After that, the shifter is the highest point, then the radiator.

You can see some pics here when I removed my first frame:

http://www.delorean.ie/deloreanrestoration3.html

I used a height of 7 concrete blocks - each block being about 4 inches thick, so a total of 28 inches - and that was enough to clear the shifter.

[Spittybug]

I have to stop looking at this thread. I have no reason to need to do this that I'm aware of, but with the MaxJax lift I could so easily do it.........
I suppose I could:

remove accumulator once and for all
confirm frame condition everywhere and fix what might be needed
replace/upgrade some electrical runs
then re-seal transmission case that has an annoying minor leak
clean and repaint engine bay


Must stop now..... No compelling reason to do this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[jawn101]

I have to stop looking at this thread. I have no reason to need to do this that I'm aware of, but with the MaxJax lift I could so easily do it.........
I suppose I could:

remove accumulator once and for all
confirm frame condition everywhere and fix what might be needed
replace/upgrade some electrical runs
then re-seal transmission case that has an annoying minor leak
clean and repaint engine bay


Must stop now..... No compelling reason to do this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What do you mean? Those are ALL compelling reasons! :devil:

[dmc6960]

Then here is an uncompelling reason if applicable...

Evacuating and recharging the AC.

Uncompellingness of it is null and void if you already need to do service on the AC system.

[DrJeff]

... http://www.delorean.ie/deloreanrestoration3.html

I used a height of 7 concrete blocks - each block being about 4 inches thick, so a total of 28 inches - and that was enough to clear the shifter.

Excellent photo blog. This will be very helpful. I don't think I have many frame issues, but I want to be sure. AND there will be terrific access to all manner of systems parts to overhaul.

Thanks (GRMA)

[Rich W]

Rich, I would like to know those numbers. Thanks.

Andy

Finally had a chance to get the requested numbers this past weekend.

I decide to list a (+/-) 2" range for each of the measurements, since measurements will vary, based on stock or lowered suspensions.
The max. height for each position was based on measurements from a rolling chassis with stock suspension and stock wheels/tires.

Max. height at top of radiator: 22" - 24"
Max. height at top of shift ball: 26" - 28"
Max. height at top of engine: 36" - 38"

Later,
Rich W.

[82DMC12]

Cool thanks Rich!

[DMCMW Dave]

Keep in mind that when you roll the frame out toward the back of the body, the engine only has to clear that bar across the back of the frame which is MUCH higher than the bottom of the fiberglass body tub. The shifter only has to clear the top of the tunnel which is only 8-10 inches below the top of the shifter. So the real interference point is probably still the radiator.

[82DMC12]

I bet a radiator is pretty easy to get out once the body is lifted a few inches!

[dmcjohn]

Keep in mind that when you roll the frame out toward the back of the body, the engine only has to clear that bar across the back of the frame which is MUCH higher than the bottom of the fiberglass body tub. The shifter only has to clear the top of the tunnel which is only 8-10 inches below the top of the shifter. So the real interference point is probably still the radiator.

It depends on how you're lifting the body.

If using blocks and planks of wood, the shifter is the interference point, as it has to go below the bottom of the body - while the body is propped up sitting on a plank spanning the width of the car.

If using a 2 post lift, then the shifter could travel back through the center tunnel space as you say, and the radiator is then the interference point, but there would only be a difference of an inch or 2 anyway.