Vacuum leak?

[Evildeli]

I had to bleed the slave cylinder and pulled a vacuum line out of the vacuum solenoid. When I went to reattach the line I realized there were two ports and that one line was unplugged prior to me getting in there. I plugged both lines back in but was wondering what types of issues I should have been experiencing and/or this is the reason why I'm having some cold/hot start issues.

[Ron]

There is no simple answer here since it depends on which hose and the engine temp:
(Keep the temp in mind when you read the two cases or you may make wrong assumptions.)

If the engine is Cold:
There is no vacuum going to the solenoid (it is sealed off by the thermal control valve). So since the distributor never gets/needs vacuum while starting, it wouldn't matter which was off WRT starting, or anything else.

If the engine is Warm:
Normally while starting the throttle is shut, so the throttle micro-switch is shut. This tells the solenoid to shut the vacuum to the distributor off. So it don't matter if the one to the distributor was off WRT starting. But it would cause performance problems since the advance would not be working, along with being a bad vacuum leak, when off idle, which causes all all kinds problems too numerous to mention.
Now the hose from the thermal control valve being open is a different story because it is a bad vacuum leak. This will cause all kinds of problems, including starting while the engine is warm.
(There is a gotcha here too- This hose falling off before setting the CO can also cause all kinds problems, including starting while the engine is cold.)

You should go over all of you hoses!

[Spittybug]

One line comes from under the manifold, from a temperature activated vacuum switch on the Y pipe, which in turn gets vacuum from the manifold. When it reaches temp X (I forgot what), it allows vacuum through to the solenoid. The solenoid in turn opens or closes based on the microswitch on the throttle spool. All of this is to either allow or not allow vacuum to reach the vacuum advance unit mounted on the side of the distributor. When it gets vacuum it will advance the distributor by up to 20*.

It is configured so that at idle (when throttle is depressing the microswitch), no vacuum reaches the distributor, thus no vacuum advance. Immediately upon depressing the throttle, the switch is opened and the solenoid now allows vacuum through to the distributor. In fact, this is when the vacuum is at its greatest (other than idle), thus immediately advancing it all the way as you begin accelerating. As the vacuum drops (you're letting in lots of air with the throttle open) the vacuum diminishes and therefore so does the amount of vacuum advance, but by now the RPMs have climbed and your mechanical advance is kicking in.

So, with either line removed you would have a vacuum leak (engine gets more air, leaning it out); it's just a question of whether it was all the time or at non-idle conditions.

[Evildeli]

The one that looked unplugged previous to my work connected to the manifold. I took Ron's advice and checked my lines in the engine bay. With some of those hoses all I could do was follow it with my hand until I felt it connected to something else, i.e. the manifold. I also started my D from cold with no issues and let her idle. I shut her down and went back about 30 minutes later. She fired right up again with no issues, when it usually does. I shut her down again and waited another hour and started her again with no issues. I really hope that the leak could have caused the hot issue, cause I've replaced fuel filter, accumulator, and cleaned the WUR. I was thinking if the hot issue persists I'm replacing the WUR, and worst case, attacking the fuel pump.