Heater control valve cross-reference/improved part?

[jawn101]

Ugh. Long story short Clint and I FINALLY got 2100 back on the road today, thanks to DPI Josh finding me a clutch. Car has been down almost 6 weeks. Everything is running and working great. I hit the road after Clint takes off to enjoy myself, and I suddenly notice the engine bay is filling with steam. Pulled over and the entire compartment is covered in coolant. Everything dripping. Opened the bottle and it's bone dry. Added some water and it just dumps right out the bottom. It's dark now and I can't see anything or get under the car. Tow trucks were called.

I get home, and 30 seconds of triage turns up a heater control valve that has sheared in half. This was a brand new valve (no more than 50 miles?) from a nameless vendor. That's a whole other story.

Is there a common cross reference part for this that Napa or Autozone etc might have? Maybe one that's all metal and not junk plastic that will break after 50 miles?

Good news though: the motor did not overheat, thanks to sheer luck, and no real damage done other than to my pride.

http://img.tapatalk.com/43a12b37-cd5f-6426.jpg

This is a photo of the part I mean. That's my original one which I removed, not the brand new broken one.

[vwdmc16]

So its not the T fitting, it was the valve? It must have blown because we cycled the heater and didnt when we installed weeks ago.

[jawn101]

Yep the valve itself went. I think there might have been stress put on it from the motor tilting back and forth, but the why isn't as important as the what to do next. I didn't like the plastic valve when I first got it and now I guess that apprehension was justified. I'd love something metal instead.

At least it explains the huge cloud of steam I got - the whole bottle's worth of coolant dumped right on the crossover pipe.

[Kevin]

Stevedmc replaced his with a heater valve from a 1980 Ford Bronco, $10 from Autozone.

Conversation starts here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2675-How-to-maintain-your-Delorean-for-less-than-500-a-year-and-put-10-000-miles-on-it&p=45045&viewfull=1#post45045

[jawn101]

Stevedmc replaced his with a heater valve from a 1980 Ford Bronco, $10 from Autozone.

Conversation starts here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2675-How-to-maintain-your-Delorean-for-less-than-500-a-year-and-put-10-000-miles-on-it&p=45045&viewfull=1#post45045

Aha. I knew I remembered someone having this same problem, figures that it would be Steve. My searches didn't turn anything up so I assumed I had read it on the .com forum.

I found a cross reference this morning as well, but mine was not $10 sadly. I hit O'Reilly first since they're the closest to my house. I ended up with a Murray 74798 out of a 1988 Cadillac Fleetwood, $36.99 (ouch, I know) - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MRY0/74798/02708.oap

It's also plastic on the inlet end, but seems much thicker than the one I had from the unnamed vendor. Problem was that this vendor's assembly came with new hoses as well, and they were slightly smaller diameter than factory. Made fitting the valve a bit of a challenge but it did go in.

[stevedmc]

Stevedmc replaced his with a heater valve from a 1980 Ford Bronco, $10 from Autozone.

Conversation starts here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2675-How-to-maintain-your-Delorean-for-less-than-500-a-year-and-put-10-000-miles-on-it&p=45045&viewfull=1#post45045

What he said. I've been running it for a while now with zero problems. The part is so cheap that I carry a spare with me. I've had two of the vendor heater control valves fail and zero failures with the Autozone part (knock on wood).

[vwdmc16]

Nice, a decent local cross reference part. have a picture of the failed one Jon?

[DMCMW Dave]

I'm curious - we've probably installed dozens, if not hundreds, of the NOS plastic units (Houston parts) without ever a problem (they are part of the overall cooling hose kit). I've only seen a couple of the originals "bad" on a car, and it is generally a pretty small drip, never a gross failure. Often kind of rusty looking, and maybe one that was stuck so as to be non-functional.

It is very odd to hear about multiple failures on one car.

[jawn101]

Yeah, here are some photos.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=12216&d=1343603711
Here's all three valves. Far left is the new one from O'Reilly, top one is the original DMC, bottom is the failed piece of junk. Notice that the new one and the original one are very close in size and design, while the one that failed is much smaller. The plastic was a lot thinner as well. No wonder the DMC one lasted 30 some years and the "new" one failed in less than 2 months.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=12217&d=1343603715
Here's the failed valve. Sheared right in half.

[stevedmc]

I'm curious - we've probably installed dozens, if not hundreds, of the NOS plastic units (Houston parts) without ever a problem (they are part of the overall cooling hose kit). I've only seen a couple of the originals "bad" on a car, and it is generally a pretty small drip, never a gross failure. Often kind of rusty looking, and maybe one that was stuck so as to be non-functional.

It is very odd to hear about multiple failures on one car.

Maybe NOS is better than the cross reference part a certain vendor sold me. Anyway, my Autozone part is still rocking strong. I wish I could fast forward a few years to see if I will still be bragging about it.

[jawn101]

I'm curious - we've probably installed dozens, if not hundreds, of the NOS plastic units (Houston parts) without ever a problem (they are part of the overall cooling hose kit). I've only seen a couple of the originals "bad" on a car, and it is generally a pretty small drip, never a gross failure. Often kind of rusty looking, and maybe one that was stuck so as to be non-functional.

It is very odd to hear about multiple failures on one car.

I don't think any of our failed ones are DMC ones, Dave... :) If we were talking about you we wouldn't keep saying "unnamed vendor" because no one's ashamed to have bought things from you.

[stevedmc]

I don't think any of our failed ones are DMC ones, Dave... :) If we were talking about you we wouldn't keep saying "unnamed vendor" because no one's ashamed to have bought things from you.

Amen.

[Chris 16409]

When I was doing my water pump install and general VOD cleanup, I broke my heater control valve while attempting to lift it out of the way. This is the variety of valve I had in the car:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5DZOG/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_9?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
(similar to what Steve was talking about. I got it as part of a hose kit)

Anyway, I decided to try something else, and I found this part at AutoZone:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Everco-Heater-Control-Valve/_/N-91sh0?itemIdentifier=933612_0_0_&newYmme=true

I looks more like the original NOS part. It's all plastic, but it seems to be more sturdy than the one that broke.


P.S.
Jon, mine broke at the same spot yours did.

[jawn101]

Bah. I don't like this part. :) I hope the new one lasts, I don't want to go through this mess again.

[DavidProehl]

Glad this is finally resolved. What a mess!

[jawn101]

Glad this is finally resolved. What a mess!

Not really resolved until I get this ignition stumbling figured out (wet plugs or something) but at least no serious damage was done.

[1batt4u]

Hows your heater contorl valve holding up so far??

This just came to my attention about the heater contorl valves.

I am putting my engine back together, gonna out my new heater control valve in any day. I bought mine form John Hervey, you recommend I by another one??

[Chris 16409]

Hey Billy, all I have to say, is that the one that I got from Hervey didn't last as long as it should have. I would check out the part from AutoZone that I posted. So far it's holding up.

[1batt4u]

Hey Billy, all I have to say, is that the one that I got from Hervey didn't last as long as it should have. I would check out the part from AutoZone that I posted. So far it's holding up.

Cool!! Thank you!!

[jawn101]

Hey Billy, all I have to say, is that the one that I got from Hervey didn't last as long as it should have. I would check out the part from AutoZone that I posted. So far it's holding up.

+1. The one I got from Hervey only lasted about 3 months. Thin plastic.

[1batt4u]

I went out to Auto Zone, bought the recommended part!

13300

To the LEFT, brand new one from Auto Zone; TOP, original Stock; BOTTOM RIGHT, Brand New from John Hervey, was about to install it any day now till I read the threads on it!

[stevedmc]

I went out to Auto Zone, bought the recommended part!

13300

To the LEFT, brand new one from Auto Zone; TOP, original Stock; BOTTOM RIGHT, Brand New from John Hervey, was about to install it any day now till I read the threads on it!

That looks different than the AutoZone part Steve Rice is using. What did yours cost? Steve Rice paid about $10 for his at AutoZone.

[stevedmc]

This is what Steve Rice's heater control valve looks like. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/18/gatuqe4a.jpg

[1batt4u]

I saw Chris's post about the part http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?4704-Heater-control-valve-cross-reference-improved-part&p=66917&viewfull=1#post66917

So I went with that. $18.99

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-91sh0?itemIdentifier=933612_0_0_

[1batt4u]

Curious, does a vaccum hose go to it??

[stevedmc]

Curious, does a vaccum hose go to it??

Steve Rice was able to connect a vacuum hose to his without any problem. The $10 AutoZone heater control valve functions as intended.

[deloumis]

Curious, does a vaccum hose go to it??

It needs the vacuum hose to open and close the valve

[1batt4u]

It needs the vacuum hose to open and close the valve

Where do I find that vacuum hose that goes to the valve?? I have everything apart.

[Kevin]

Where do I find that vacuum hose that goes to the valve?? I have everything apart.

It's the thin, plastic tube coming out of the left side of the firewall, towards the back of the engine bay. Towards the front (back of the car) are the hoses coming from the charcoal canister, then on the other end of the wall should be the plastic line. I can go take a photo if you need.

[1batt4u]

It's the thin, plastic tube coming out of the left side of the firewall, towards the back of the engine bay. Towards the front (back of the car) are the hoses coming from the charcoal canister, then on the other end of the wall should be the plastic line. I can go take a photo if you need.

Ok got it!!

This is the end that connects to the valve, correct?

13356

[dmc6960]

Ok got it!!

This is the end that connects to the valve, correct?

13356

Yes. You can see what is probably your original plastic vacuum nipple broken off in the coupling.

[1batt4u]

Ok Cool! Thank you guys!!

[AugustneverEnds]

I am a bit late too this party but would anyone care to share their thoughts on this valve from Napa?

13883

On my DMC parts interchange list, it lists this as a suitable replacement. ( Part # bk 6601227) I figured I'd replace mine since the car will drained of coolant this week anyways, plus I swear I see a small drop of coolant in the area of this valve.

Thanks for any input. :)

[jawn101]

I am a bit late too this party but would anyone care to share their thoughts on this valve from Napa?

13883

On my DMC parts interchange list, it lists this as a suitable replacement. ( Part # bk 6601227) I figured I'd replace mine since the car will drained of coolant this week anyways, plus I swear I see a small drop of coolant in the area of this valve.

Thanks for any input. :)

Looks more or less like the OEM or the Fleetwood x-ref that I ended up with. I'd say it's probably good to go. Just check it out in the store and if the plastic seems thin, it probably is.

[DMC3165]

As I found out after mine crapped out, there are a number of theses valves that will fit and work for our cars. As long as it fits the hoses and loactions and is vacum operated it will work. After replacing mine I think I should've used an all plastic model like Steve Rice did. My OEM had started to rust and corode on the inside and that's never good. My new one I picked up from Grady is similar to the OEM unit but still half metal and half plastic. I would've picked up the Generic part but after trying five different chain stores no one had it in stock. The closest one was at an Auto Zone in queens which is probably the one Billy picked up. I was considereing bypassing it completely but it really helps in the dead of summer when it 90 something degress outside. So it's worth while to keep it.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I had purchased an electrically operated one but did not test if it opened enough. What I need is a rotating type gate valve that is servo run. I wanted to wire it so it was only open if I adjusted the heat knob off full cold.

[Tillsy]

Add me to the list of people who have had the Hervey unit snap at that exact spot. Spectacular - coolant sprayed everywhere, steam bellowing, has taken a week to slowly clean up the mess (happened within my garage whilst intentionally heating up the engine to flush the oil).

[Tillsy]

Add me to the list of people who have had the Hervey unit snap at that exact spot. Spectacular - coolant sprayed everywhere, steam bellowing, has taken a week to slowly clean up the mess (happened within my garage whilst intentionally heating up the engine to flush the oil).
So here is the offending part - frustratingly most aftermarket replacements I could find happened to be this exact piece of crap:
61122

After much searching I came across this hot water valve for a Jaguar that was not plastic - installed and working an absolute treat!
61121

[ritztoys]

Howdy Chris.....Can you share the part # for that valve? TFYR

[Josh]

Im using the bronco one, no moving parts and very cheap (less than $10). Pick it up at the local parts store.

It is also a good opportunity to move it up front by the AC accumulator, get it out of the engine bay and sources of heat.

FOUR SEASONS 74612
Used in many applications

[DavidProehl]

After much searching I came across this hot water valve for a Jaguar that was not plastic - installed and working an absolute treat!
61121

Oooh, I also need to replace mine and would be interested in a part number if you're willing.

[Tillsy]

Howdy Chris.....Can you share the part # for that valve? TFYR


Oooh, I also need to replace mine and would be interested in a part number if you're willing.

It's a Tora (ironically same make as the crap unit) part C41051 to suit the Jaguar XJS, XJ6, and XJ12.

[ritztoys]

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. I have one on the way....btw it fits a 1977-1981 Jag :)

[DavidProehl]

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. I have one on the way....btw it fits a 1977-1981 Jag :)

+1! Thanks!

[Trstno1]

Well crap..... as usual, I'm late to the party

I just purchased a heater control valve from DeLorean GO that looks identical to the one that seems to have the catastrophic failures everyone has been having. Though I must admit, it also looks exactly like a Motorcraft YG136 valve too. I wonder if they are one in the same, or the one's from Hervey were just a Chinese knock off of the same part. I also wonder if I can find any failure rates for the motorcraft part.

I have an email into Arran about where the part he sells comes from. I did think it was a bit weird that he sold 3 different iterations of the heater control valve. I thought going half metal over plastic was a safe bet. I'm sure glad I didn't install it yet, as I was literally going to do it this weekend. The following picture is part 100763A from DeLorean Go. I'll get back with Arran's response.

[Trstno1]

Well crap..... as usual, I'm late to the party

I just purchased a heater control valve from DeLorean GO that looks identical to the one that seems to have the catastrophic failures everyone has been having. Though I must admit, it also looks exactly like a Motorcraft YG136 valve too. I wonder if they are one in the same, or the one's from Hervey were just a Chinese knock off of the same part. I also wonder if I can find any failure rates for the motorcraft part.

I have an email into Arran about where the part he sells comes from. I did think it was a bit weird that he sold 3 different iterations of the heater control valve. I thought going half metal over plastic was a safe bet. I'm sure glad I didn't install it yet, as I was literally going to do it this weekend. The following picture is part 100763A from DeLorean Go. I'll get back with Arran's response.

Alright guys -

Arran's response:

100763A / 100763 / 100763M – all made in China. Even the Motorcraft one I think is made in China now.

I’ve not had any issues with my version of the 100763A, although I have heard of the issues as you say with other versions of these (not from me).