Setting Timing question

[rothsean]

I got my car running again. I used the timing light today and the mark is close to lining up with the 13 degree mark. (This is a stock motor). I would guess it is at 10.5 to 11 degrees, it is about .75 cm off.

Is that ok or does it need to be perfect?

[WelmoedJ]

I got my car running again. I used the timing light today and the mark is close to lining up with the 13 degree mark. (This is a stock motor). I would guess it is at 10.5 to 11 degrees, it is about .75 cm off.

Is that ok or does it need to be perfect?

With a stock engine and stock distributor 13 degrees is standard at idling.
Should you run a stock engine with a Volvo ignition distributor you could use 10-11 degrees while idling.

Volvo distributors have two balancers and are a bit more "aggressive".
With such a distributor your max torque is reached at some 2200 RPM instead of 2750 RPM (stock distri).
Of course on the BHP side you also have another RPM value (I do not have that figure, perhaps another reader may have that?).

Preferably don't mix values like degrees and cm as this may be confusion to other readers.

[rothsean]

Thanks for the info. So should I make sure mine is at 13 degrees or am I ok leaving it around 10-11 degrees? I have no idea about the tolerances and when damage starts to occur.

The motor sounds good to my ear, but I don't want to blow a piston or break anything either.

[WelmoedJ]

Thanks for the info. So should I make sure mine is at 13 degrees or am I ok leaving it around 10-11 degrees? I have no idea about the tolerances and when damage starts to occur.

The motor sounds good to my ear, but I don't want to blow a piston or break anything either.

You best make sure the ignition fires at the right (factory determined) moment: 13 degrees while idling.
10-11 degrees is a bit too advanced for the factory setup.

[David T]

You should be able to get the timing dead on to 13 degrees. Any deviation can cause problems. Make sure you are setting the timing with the motor at 775 RPM's or less and the vacuum line to the distributor plugged. It also can't hurt to verify TDC before setting the timing. Once properly set it should not need to be touched again unless you mess with the distributor.
David Teitelbaum

[rothsean]

Will pulling out the two vacuum lines to the distributor suffice or do I need to plug them with something? If so, what do you usually plug them with?

That distributor nut is a pain to get to!

[dmc6960]

No, you don't need to plug the vacuum line, just make sure there isn't any vacuum going to it while at idle. There are other systems on the car designed to turn off that vacuum when at idle. If those are working (which I can just about guarantee that they are if your at 10-11 right now) then there is no need to plug them. I dont understand why that was said.

[rothsean]

Cool, the only dumb thing that I did when I took the distributor off was that I forgot which vacuum line went into which slot where they plug in to that device behind the fuel distributor area.

There is the electrical prong and two hose connections, both going to distributor. Does it matter which line plugs into which connection?

[dmc6960]

There is the electrical prong and two hose connections, both going to distributor. Does it matter which line plugs into which connection?

Thats the electrical solenoid which turns off vacuum to the distributor at idle. It does matter which way the hoses go because one side has a vent. Do you still have the vacuum routing sticker on your engine lid? It shows the proper way to hook it up.

[dmc6960]

And just in case you dont have it, here it is...

http://images.wikia.com/deloreantech/images/f/f6/VacuumRoutingDiagram.png

[rothsean]

Perfect, thanks!

I am open to suggests on how to loosen the nut that holds the distibutor in place. It is a tight fit to get in there. I guess I need a long wrench. Is it 12mm?