Timing cover flywheel gasket removal

[kings1527]

I'm in the middle of some major services on my car and changing gaskets haven't been much of a problem until I ran into this one. This thing is a real pain to get completely off. I've tried Permatex gasket remover and it helps a little bit but not much.

Anyone have any tips/tricks just for this gasket? Thanks.

Alex

[DMC5180]

I've found the best chemical gasket remover for thick paper gasket material to be paint stripper. It will soften the material so that it releases from the surface. It's also water soluble for clean up. Years ago Permatex made a Spray can version of gasket remover that was basically spray on paint remover. Permatex stopped selling that version and now has a more "green" version. It's a foam that brushes on using a built-in applicator on the can. I've used it with great success cleaning the sealant residue off the transmission case halves. I have not tried it on the heavier paper gaskets like the one's used on the Timing cover.

Because of the time involved with letting the stuff soak and re-application on heavy gaskets, Many shops elect to remove the gaskets by mechanical means such as 2 inch scotch-brite pads on a 90 deg air grinder. I would be very cautious using that method, since it is abrasive enough to remove metal if you get too carried away.

[kings1527]

I've found the best chemical gasket remover for thick paper gasket material to be paint stripper. It will soften the material so that it releases from the surface. It's also water soluble for clean up. Years ago Permatex made a Spray can version of gasket remover that was basically spray on paint remover. Permatex stopped selling that version and now has a more "green" version. It's a foam that brushes on using a built-in applicator on the can. I've used it with great success cleaning the sealant residue off the transmission case halves. I have not tried it on the heavier paper gaskets like the one's used on the Timing cover.

Because of the time involved with letting the stuff soak and re-application on heavy gaskets, Many shops elect to remove the gaskets by mechanical means such as 2 inch scotch-brite pads on a 90 deg air grinder. I would be very cautious using that method, since it is abrasive enough to remove metal if you get too carried away.

Thanks for the info, Dennis. I've been having trouble with the paper/fiber gaskets too, but on this post I was referring to the rubber gasket in the flywheel/crankshaft hole. I wasn't very clear.

12620

This one has been a mother to get out, particularly with how it fits and it's one that has to come completely out. I have the Permatex brush on gasket remover you were talking about and that stuff is ultra-corrosive (good stuff) but I still feel like I'm taking the long way around this.

As far as the paper fiber gaskets go, I feel like I've done a decent job with it. I've been using the Permatex and a razor blade. It some spots, the gasket isn't 100% removed but it's completely flush with the metal and if you run your finger over it, you can't even feel the remaining gasket so I'm thinking with a new gasket and some gasket sealer, things should be fine. Does that sound about right?

Thanks,
Alex

[DMC5180]

Alex,

That's the crankshaft seal. To remove it, just place a flat screwdriver or pry bar across the opening and pry it out. Alternately you can use a large socket slightly smaller than the OD and knock it out. Or you flip the cove over and use a punch from the back side to know it out working your way around the circumference like knocking out a bearing race.

[kings1527]

Alex,

That's the crankshaft seal. To remove it, just place a flat screwdriver or pry bar across the opening and pry it out. Alternately you can use a large socket slightly smaller than the OD and knock it out. Or you flip the cove over and use a punch from the back side to know it out working your way around the circumference like knocking out a bearing race.

Now I feel like a moron. :banghead: I was running into a lot of metal while trying to get the crankshaft seal (thanks for the right terminology) out and I was positive the metal was part of the cover itself. Turns out the metal I was fighting with was from the seal. My first rule is "don't cause more damage" and I wanted to get a consultation before I continued.

Thanks for all of the info in your posts.

For putting the new crankshaft seal in, what's the best sealant to use? Will any gasketmaker/sealant work?

Thanks again,
Alex

[DMC5180]

Now I feel like a moron. :banghead: I was running into a lot of metal while trying to get the crankshaft seal (thanks for the right terminology) out and I was positive the metal was part of the cover itself. Turns out the metal I was fighting with was from the seal. My first rule is "don't cause more damage" and I wanted to get a consultation before I continued.

Thanks for all of the info in your posts.

For putting the new crankshaft seal in, what's the best sealant to use? Will any gasketmaker/sealant work?

Thanks again,
Alex

No problem, s**t happens! The OD of the seal is rubberized. It doesn't need a sealer to hold it in or seal it. Just use a flat block of wood or equivalent placed on the seal face and drive it in with a mallet or hammer till it's Flush or slightly below (1/16th) if using a large socket. You don't want to damaged it or you'll be replacing it again.

Geez, I really need to re-read my posts (previous) and check for spelling errors. My mind goes faster that my fingers.

[kings1527]

No problem, s**t happens! The OD of the seal is rubberized. It doesn't need a sealer to hold it in or seal it. Just use a flat block of wood or equivalent placed on the seal face and drive it in with a mallet or hammer till it's Flush or slightly below (1/16th) if using a large socket. You don't want to damaged it or you'll be replacing it again.

Geez, I really need to re-read my posts (previous) and check for spelling errors. My mind goes faster that my fingers.

Outstanding info, Dennis, thanks. It worked perfectly!

Alex

[mluder]

I, on the other hand banged away on it with a hammer and a seal driver set and couldn't get it to budge so I went after it with a screw driver and tore a small chunk out of the back - looks like I'll be ordering a new one. Of course if I had read this post I would have known the correct way.

Not saying you're advice was bad - I am just an idiot.

Cheers.
Steve

[kings1527]

I, on the other hand banged away on it with a hammer and a seal driver set and couldn't get it to budge so I went after it with a screw driver and tore a small chunk out of the back - looks like I'll be ordering a new one. Of course if I had read this post I would have known the correct way.

Not saying you're advice was bad - I am just an idiot.

Cheers.
Steve

Ouch, Steve, sorry to hear that.

I got my timing cover gasket set/crankshaft seal from Hervey. The CS looks like real nice quality. He shipped it out real quick to me. By the way, if you're in the middle of redoing the timing chain cover and/or the valve covers, check out this stainless steel paint from Seymour Paints.

http://www.seymourpaint.com/stainless_steel_paint.html

I've been using this stuff and the self etching primer they make and the results are amazing. It's good up to 250 degrees, too. That should be plenty; probably even during a pretty righteous overheating episode. Then I top coated everything with VHT clear coat.

http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/enginemetallic/

If you have everything off, maybe consider doing it.

Alex