Name these disconnected wires.. Please!

[krs09]

I am a new D owner and i was lucky enough to have the PO do some "electrical upgrades" in the engine bay and was wondering if any of you guys can help with a little IDing.. Thanks to Rich - Jawny and Steve for my no start problem. My new parts are on the way. As you can see this engine is going to some major upgrades.. Any thoughts???

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[ccurzio]

For what it's worth, the plug in picture 5 is also not hooked up to anything in my car. It was tucked inside of a black protective sheath that covers the wires that run along the back wall of the bay. Your car lacks the sheath, so your plug just hangs free and out in the open. I have no idea what it's for, but it's apparently not important.

As for your damaged fuses, #12 (bottom-middle, closest to your hand) controls the "Diagnostic Plug", the various lamps around the car (engine bay, glovebox, doors/interior), as well as the inter dimmer delay unit. Fuse #18 (bottom-right, completely melted out) controls your brake lamps. NOTE: This is assuming that the orientation of the fuse box is correct. It almost looks like the PO crammed in whatever fuses were available rather than the CORRECT ones. I'm using Fuses 1, 2, and 3 as my orientation reference (since those are all supposed to be 10A and they are correct in your fuse box), but almost all of the rest of them are dead wrong. Starting on the top-left and counting from top to bottom, here's what your car has versus what SHOULD be there (wrong fuses in bold):

1) Has 10A, Needs 10A
2) Has 10A, Needs 10A
3) Has 10A, Needs 10A

4) Has 25A, Needs 20A
5) Has 15A, Needs 20A
6) Has 15A, Needs 20A

7) Has 20A, Needs 20A
8) Has 30A, Needs 10A
9) Has 30A, Needs 10A

10) Has 20A, Needs 20A
11) Has 10A, Needs 30A
12) Has 20A, Needs 10A

13) Has 20A, Needs 10A
14) Has 10A, Needs 20A
15) Has 20A, Needs 20A

16) Has 10A, Needs 10A
17) Has 10A, Needs 20A
18) Has 25A, Needs 20A

It doesn't look like the two wires in picture 4 are supposed to be there, so I don't know what those are for. In the rest of the pictures, it's not hugely clear what you're needing to ID.

[krs09]

For what it's worth, the plug in picture 5 is also not hooked up to anything in my car. It was tucked inside of a black protective sheath that covers the wires that run along the back wall of the bay. Your car lacks the sheath, so your plug just hangs free and out in the open. I have no idea what it's for, but it's apparently not important.

As for your damaged fuses, #12 (bottom-middle, closest to your hand) controls the "Diagnostic Plug", the various lamps around the car (engine bay, glovebox, doors/interior), as well as the inter dimmer delay unit. Fuse #18 (bottom-right, completely melted out) controls your brake lamps. NOTE: This is assuming that the orientation of the fuse box is correct. It almost looks like the PO crammed in whatever fuses were available rather than the CORRECT ones. I'm using Fuses 1, 2, and 3 as my orientation reference (since those are all supposed to be 10A and they are correct in your fuse box), but almost all of the rest of them are dead wrong. Starting on the top-left and counting from top to bottom, here's what your car has versus what SHOULD be there (wrong fuses in bold):

1) Has 10A, Needs 10A
2) Has 10A, Needs 10A
3) Has 10A, Needs 10A

4) Has 25A, Needs 20A
5) Has 15A, Needs 20A
6) Has 15A, Needs 20A

7) Has 20A, Needs 20A
8) Has 30A, Needs 10A
9) Has 30A, Needs 10A

10) Has 20A, Needs 20A
11) Has 10A, Needs 30A
12) Has 20A, Needs 10A

13) Has 20A, Needs 10A
14) Has 10A, Needs 20A
15) Has 20A, Needs 20A

16) Has 10A, Needs 10A
17) Has 10A, Needs 20A
18) Has 25A, Needs 20A

It doesn't look like the two wires in picture 4 are supposed to be there, so I don't know what those are for. In the rest of the pictures, it's not hugely clear what you're needing to ID.

Thanks for the run down on all the fuses. Looks I got a lot that are way off. I did get and new relay kit from delorean that came with all new fuses(going to try to pop those in this weekend). I know these pics are not the best. But here's some detials

1,2,3 - are just pics of the eletrical compartment (what a mess!).

4 - is wiring on the left side of the bay with the two connectors cliped together and two smaller wires not connected at all and not sure where their supposed to go.

5 - is a connector in the back of the bay, I am glad someone else has it not connected. Guess it cant be too important.

6 - is what looks like a vacuum line coming from a cruise control servo down into the line coming from the left side of the engine. It really just looks like he cut it half and just attached a "T" connector (ugh). I have to take that out and hope I can seal that up and make it one line again.. I hope.

7 - is a connector with two very corroded terminals that were not attached when i picked up the veh. I seen the sensor when I removed the element housing, it sits right underneath it, bolted to the top of the valve cover on right side. I think I read that it has something to do with my lamda light.. that light is on now but there is a slew of other issues that may cause that light to pop on too.

8 - is a shot of the sweet after market cruise control mess that he was nice enough to include in the sale!

Any thoughts or ideas to get her back to normal please let me know!! Thank you guys.. You are the best.

Trying to wake a sleeping beauty.
Vin# 4870 - custom interior - sweet fuzzy dash and stock everything else

[DMC5180]

Back to normal! yikes.

The first step would be to Install a NEW Fuse box and clean up the Floating fuses. Most likely some of those miscellaneous added wires (see blue wire taps) have something to do with the Cruise control unit (just guessing though). The Black wire that is plugged into the White Socket (normally empty) is providing a ground for something. You need to trace it backwards and find out where the wire is coming from. I also noticed your Otterstat (cooling fan switch) has been remove from the Left side coolant pipe and the pipe has been welded shut. It's probably been hardwired to run all the time now. That should be corrected also. I also noticed a red/black double wire in the relay area. I think that may be for a remote courtesy light ON/OFF switch. (It's a Battery saver when the doors are left open for long periods) It would usually get plugged into the fuse 12 location which I don't see.

You have a bit of work ahead of you to get things back to NORMAL.

[DMC5180]

Regarding your fuse box, If your rotate it 90 degrees CW that would be the normal position in the relay area. The word PRESSAC will read right to left. The Melted out fuse is Number 1. The middle fuse to right of it is fuse 7 (fuel pump,Lambda) .

You mentioned your Lambda light is on. Does the Odometer have more than 30,000 miles on it? The light is just a reminder to renew the O2 sensor every 30K. There is a Lambda counter (white plastic box) With speedo cable coming out of it. Look behind the Clutch/Brake pedal. Do search on here for reseting the lamda counter to see how it's done.

photo 4. Normally their is only one wire passing through the grommet in the back wall. (the wire with the big white connector housing) any other wires are aftermarket ( like the cruise servo) the pair of brown unconnected wires I have no clue about. did this car have an alarm on it?

[krs09]

Back to normal! yikes.

The first step would be to Install a NEW Fuse box and clean up the Floating fuses. Most likely some of those miscellaneous added wires (see blue wire taps) have something to do with the Cruise control unit (just guessing though). The Black wire that is plugged into the White Socket (normally empty) is providing a ground for something. You need to trace it backwards and find out where the wire is coming from. I also noticed your Otterstat (cooling fan switch) has been remove from the Left side coolant pipe and the pipe has been welded shut. It's probably been hardwired to run all the time now. That should be corrected also. I also noticed a red/black double wire in the relay area. I think that may be for a remote courtesy light ON/OFF switch. (It's a Battery saver when the doors are left open for long periods) It would usually get plugged into the fuse 12 location which I don't see.

You have a bit of work ahead of you to get things back to NORMAL.

Thanks Dennis. What a eletrical nightmare, gotta get a new fuse box for sure just to try to get things back in order. Your dead on about the otter switch, the fans are wired to run all the time (which i cant stand) hopefully i can just geta a new pipe and trow it in there. Thanks for all the info. Just starting to dig into this long project

[krs09]

Regarding your fuse box, If your rotate it 90 degrees CW that would be the normal position in the relay area. The word PRESSAC will read right to left. The Melted out fuse is Number 1. The middle fuse to right of it is fuse 7 (fuel pump,Lambda) .

You mentioned your Lambda light is on. Does the Odometer have more than 30,000 miles on it? The light is just a reminder to renew the O2 sensor every 30K. There is a Lambda counter (white plastic box) With speedo cable coming out of it. Look behind the Clutch/Brake pedal. Do search on here for reseting the lamda counter to see how it's done.

photo 4. Normally their is only one wire passing through the grommet in the back wall. (the wire with the big white connector housing) any other wires are aftermarket ( like the cruise servo) the pair of brown unconnected wires I have no clue about. did this car have an alarm on it?


Na not quite, i have 29000 and change on it but who knows how accurate that really is. I will look into that reset though could really be useful. Dont think there was ever a alarm on it.. Thanks again.. Any tips a greatfully appreciated.

[Jonathan]

Any thoughts???

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Hi there,

Welcome to the fun and wacky world of DeLorean ownership! :)

I wanted to follow up on something in your 6th photo. I am focusing on the coolant pipe and specifically the "blinded off" tee (or what it looks to me to be) that is just above the red part of your engine oil dipstick. Wouldn't hurt to do a double check, but to me it looks almost like that "was" the tee where your coolant temperature "otterstat" should be located, but it isn't there and the top of the tee has been sealed off. Maybe it's just the way it appears, but if you could see where your otterstat is, it'll perhaps help some troubleshooting in the near future.

I uploaded a couple old pictures I had on my computer here, one is from above, where you can see the coolant pipe, and the other is from below where you can see the otterstat in the tee and the wiring connectors on it. The tee pointed down is better than pointed up, but no otterstat at all would be something else entirely.

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[dmc6960]

Regarding photo #6...

There is no question about it, the otterstat port has been welded shut. Replace the pipe with a new one.

The vacuum T definately looks to be for the cruise control. If your removing it there is no issue replacing that hose and making it whole again.

[jawn101]

Also looks like your fuel sender is screwed up, the gauge is pointed to 12:00 which usually indicates a failed sender.

You've got quite a job ahead of you here, are you good at soldering? :)

[DMC5180]

7 - is a connector with two very corroded terminals that were not attached when i picked up the veh. I seen the sensor when I removed the element housing, it sits right underneath it, bolted to the top of the valve cover on right side. I think I read that it has something to do with my lamda light.. that light is on now but there is a slew of other issues that may cause that light to pop on too.




Those are the wires to the frequency Valve (attached to the rocker cover) missing the Connector housing. It has no effect on the lambda light. But is part of the lambda's functioning system. When it's disconnected like that you don't have a Functional system. It may be working electrically, but the engine runs as if it doesn't have active mixture control. The plus side of that is the engine doesn't "Idle hunt".
You could probably have a debate over whether need to have it or not. It's mainly for Emissions. If you live in area that requires testing you will need to have a working system.

You can either buy a new connector kit or get used cut-off from someone (Vendor or Private party) the cheapest way to go to get by for now.

Or, what might be your best solution is to replace the Engine compartment wire harness with the (Late style version) offered by DMC vendors. Its about ($200) and it re-routes the big cluster of wires running over the top of the engine down to the Alternator,OP sender and starter. It really helps clean up the (busy-ness) of all the lines. It would ensure ALL the wire connections (The harness side) are Clean not "Green".

[krs09]

Regarding photo #6...

There is no question about it, the otterstat port has been welded shut. Replace the pipe with a new one.

The vacuum T definately looks to be for the cruise control. If your removing it there is no issue replacing that hose and making it whole again.

Yeah. Getting a new pipe for sure.. Do you think it would be ok to try to connect and patch that vacuum hose or replacing it? (replacing it looks like it may be rough).

[krs09]

Also looks like your fuel sender is screwed up, the gauge is pointed to 12:00 which usually indicates a failed sender.

You've got quite a job ahead of you here, are you good at soldering? :)

Great... Yea that gauge it stuck solid..I think the tach is f'ed up too. I really have to get that fuel gauge goin again. Bad sender huh.. Ill put that on the list and no i cant solder formy life. What needs to be done ??

[krs09]

Those are the wires to the frequency Valve (attached to the rocker cover) missing the Connector housing. It has no effect on the lambda light. But is part of the lambda's functioning system. When it's disconnected like that you don't have a Functional system. It may be working electrically, but the engine runs as if it doesn't have active mixture control. The plus side of that is the engine doesn't "Idle hunt".
You could probably have a debate over whether need to have it or not. It's mainly for Emissions. If you live in area that requires testing you will need to have a working system.

You can either buy a new connector kit or get used cut-off from someone (Vendor or Private party) the cheapest way to go to get by for now.

Or, what might be your best solution is to replace the Engine compartment wire harness with the (Late style version) offered by DMC vendors. Its about ($200) and it re-routes the big cluster of wires running over the top of the engine down to the Alternator,OP sender and starter. It really helps clean up the (busy-ness) of all the lines. It would ensure ALL the wire connections (The harness side) are Clean not "Green".

Damn i was hoping i could just clean them but there is no tenision in the clips. Once i put them on they pull right of with no grip at all. Its never easy!?!

[jawn101]

Yeah. Getting a new pipe for sure.. Do you think it would be ok to try to connect and patch that vacuum hose or replacing it? (replacing it looks like it may be rough).

Patching vacuum lines isn't a great idea. None of the main ones in the engine compartment are difficult to replace, provided you are already in the valley. Which as a new owner, you need to investigate anyway.


Great... Yea that gauge it stuck solid..I think the tach is f'ed up too. I really have to get that fuel gauge goin again. Bad sender huh.. Ill put that on the list and no i cant solder formy life. What needs to be done ??

What makes you think the tach is bad? I see it sitting at 3000 with the car off, but it's normal for them to go up when you shut the car off. Does it work when the car is running? If not, does it just seem "jerky" and hop around a lot? That is a symptom of bad grounds, probably not a bad tach. The fuse box replacement will be a lot more durable if you solder the terminals in to the new one, and it looks like you will be cutting out a lot of PO mods (inline fuse holders, etc) and that will require the factory harness to be spliced back together.

Edit: Actually, was the car on or off when you took that pic of the dash? The fuel gauge sticking straight up could be a stuck gauge or a bad sender depending on if there was power to it or not. Same photo shows the tach at 3000, which should only happen either at 3000 rpm or if the car is off :)


Damn i was hoping i could just clean them but there is no tenision in the clips. Once i put them on they pull right of with no grip at all. Its never easy!?!

I just learned that Dave S. at DMCMW has the Bosch-style connectors available, so you could replace that whole FV plug pretty easily.

[DMC5180]

Straight up fuel gauge usually means their is an open circuit on the Sender side. You need to pull the Fuel Pump access panel in the spare tire well and confirm it's connected. Judging from the PO's (Hack) repairs it could simply be unplugged or a Green corrosion issue. If the sender is connected, disconnect the plug and jump the Harness side G/B to B wire this will simulate an empty tank and gauge should read empty with key on. This will confirm continuity of the Black wire to ground and upstream to the gauge via the G/B wire and confirm it's an issue with the sender. If this does nothing, try jumping the G/B wire to a metal ground some place else. If you get the gauge to respond it would indicate a bad ground via the black wire in the harness. NOTE: ALL black wires in the harness are Ground wires. If none of this pans out then you need to look up stream to the Gauge and Instrument cluster connections.

Don't be intimidated by wiring issues. The systems are very basic and there are plenty of resources (wire schematics) to help you work through each issue one system at a time.

[jawn101]

Don't be intimidated by wiring issues. The systems are very basic and there are plenty of resources (wire schematics) to help you work through each issue one system at a time.

It's true. I'm dealing with my own right now and while it can be frustrating, the systems on this car really are quite basic. There are next to no "black boxes" into which a hundred wires disappear to have their connections subject to the Machiavellian whims of a computer. Even the Lambda "computer" (if you can even call it that) and idle speed controller are really quite simple and fortunately rarely fail. You can do it!

[DMC5180]

[QUOTE

I just learned that Dave S. at DMCMW has the Bosch-style connectors available, so you could replace that whole FV plug pretty easily.[/QUOTE]


Btw: What we commonly call (Bosch-Style) connectors. Actually have an official name. They are referred to as JPT connectors which is short for (JUNIOR-POWER-TIMER)

[krs09]

Back to normal! yikes.

The first step would be to Install a NEW Fuse box and clean up the Floating fuses. Most likely some of those miscellaneous added wires (see blue wire taps) have something to do with the Cruise control unit (just guessing though). The Black wire that is plugged into the White Socket (normally empty) is providing a ground for something. You need to trace it backwards and find out where the wire is coming from. I also noticed your Otterstat (cooling fan switch) has been remove from the Left side coolant pipe and the pipe has been welded shut. It's probably been hardwired to run all the time now. That should be corrected also. I also noticed a red/black double wire in the relay area. I think that may be for a remote courtesy light ON/OFF switch. (It's a Battery saver when the doors are left open for long periods) It would usually get plugged into the fuse 12 location which I don't see.

You have a bit of work ahead of you to get things back to NORMAL.

Hey.. Today i was upgrading all the relays and fuses (got the kit from delorean). So i got to the circuit breakers and i think mine are different than what there supposed to be. It says to replace the 35amp with a 40amp, the 35amp breaker thats there now has 4 connectors on it and the new 40amp breaker only has 2 connectors on it. Sooo what do i do with the other connectors??? I got everything else done and now im at a road block maybe someone has done this update alredy Anyway someone can post any pics of what a correct fuse box (circuit breakers and relays) is supposed to look like so i can have some kind of reference.. The PO really f'ed this car up..

[DMC5180]

Hey.. Today i was upgrading all the relays and fuses (got the kit from delorean). So i got to the circuit breakers and i think mine are different than what there supposed to be. It says to replace the 35amp with a 40amp, the 35amp breaker thats there now has 4 connectors on it and the new 40amp breaker only has 2 connectors on it. Sooo what do i do with the other connectors??? I got everything else done and now im at a road block maybe someone has done this update alredy Anyway someone can post any pics of what a correct fuse box (circuit breakers and relays) is supposed to look like so i can have some kind of reference.. The PO really f'ed this car up..

All the Spade terminals get cut-off and replaced with yellow (10-12 ga) ring terminals (4) then reinstall on the appropriate studs.

Refer to this post for pics and fuse box replacement :http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1070-How-to-Replace-fuse-block&highlight=relay+compartment

Pic 10 is a good shot of what it should look like.

[jawn101]

All the Spade terminals get cut-off and replaced with yellow (10-12 ga) ring terminals (4) then reinstall on the appropriate studs.

Refer to this post for pics and fuse box replacement :http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1070-How-to-Replace-fuse-block&highlight=relay+compartment

Pic 10 is a good shot of what it should look like.

I'm blushing over here.

Also, I believe there *ARE* places to get ring terminal to spade adapters. I forget which vendor I saw selling them - seems like a Hervey thing to have around. Had I known that at the time, I might have used them to avoid cutting those terminals off. But the direct ring terminal connections are much more positive.

[krs09]

Thanks to everybody for all your help! I have been able to get a good bit done with all you tips. My newest problem is trying to get a hold of the hose in this pic (the one coming out of the body). I looked on DMC and just couldnt find it (i bet looked right past it). Since the PO owner seemed to cut it in half to install the cruise control i really wanted to get a nice shiny new one. Any tips on where to find it? Any tips on installing it? Thanks again!

12782

[Bitsyncmaster]

Thanks to everybody for all your help! I have been able to get a good bit done with all you tips. My newest problem is trying to get a hold of the hose in this pic (the one coming out of the body). I looked on DMC and just couldnt find it (i bet looked right past it). Since the PO owner seemed to cut it in half to install the cruise control i really wanted to get a nice shiny new one. Any tips on where to find it? Any tips on installing it? Thanks again!

12782

It a vacuum hose so most anything will work. I replaced mine with silicon. Measure the ID and look online for it.

[krs09]

Well im gonna try to switch my concern to another problem just to switch it up... I have been try to get my idle speed down to where it is supposed to be and as you can see I believe the PO installed some aftermarket return spring, leading me to believe thats my problem (doesnt have enough tension to press the idle control switch all the way in) so I bought a stock spring and popped it in the other day and i still have the same issue. My question is should I cut out that old aftermarket spring? I guess so right? I guess it could hold it up. Whatdo you think ??


12783

[Jonathan]

Well im gonna try to switch my concern to another problem just to switch it up... I have been try to get my idle speed down to where it is supposed to be and as you can see I believe the PO installed some aftermarket return spring, leading me to believe thats my problem (doesnt have enough tension to press the idle control switch all the way in) so I bought a stock spring and popped it in the other day and i still have the same issue. My question is should I cut out that old aftermarket spring? I guess so right? I guess it could hold it up. Whatdo you think ??


12783

Hello,

Give this thread a read when you have a minute:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?4950-Slightly-High-Idle-I-m-guessing-O2-sensor

Believe it or not, that spring is factory, not aftermarket. It is supposed to be there. Thank our team of Leprechauns in the 80's for that one.

If it is not springing back as it should, and your idle speed micro switch is not getting engaged, there are a handful of different things to try, and most are discussed in that thread. I think the two bigger ones for me were the general condition of that spring, the butterfly valves pivoting axis and other components being old and "gritty" or "rough." I intent on still going back in and removing this assembly to take it all apart and clean it and grease it. Elvis mentioned this a few times. The other to try is adjusting the length of your linkage which goes from the ball on the bottom of the throttle spool to an opposing ball on the end of that lever arm. This will help eliminate any slack that might be causing the gap of travel for that lever arm. You can adjust the posts too to hit the switch, but it's more likely to be the grease job needed on the lever arm.

Grab some morning java, read through that high idle stuff and let us know which one you think might be your issue.

[krs09]

Im bringing this thread back for some new issues I think I have found. What is the correct way to have this connector connected (the white multi connector, bottom left)? The lone black wire was ran to the front of the car but not connected to anything, I think it has something to do with the hot start system
20110

In the same pic, How should the door lock circuit breaker be set up?

For those of you that have the power antenna, How should it be wired? Whats with knot of white and red wires? I tracked down the white wire to find it disconnected. Any thoughts?2011120112

What a mess of wires that don't belong. Im sure having this in there didn't help any of my electrical woes20113

[David T]

There should be nothing connected to that white plug in the first picture. Remove the wire. As for the antennae, it looks like it is not original, it is a "Tri-Band". That's what they called them when they were AM, FM, and CB. Add a 10 A in-line fuse to the door lock circuit breaker (the big red wire). Yes, that is what it looks like when you dissect out an alarm and/or a cruise control. Be sure to properly seal all of the connections after removing all of that junk. When I have to remove that I try to remove every bit of wire and every non-stock connector. Your radio wiring will probably look very creative when you get to that area.
David Teitelbaum

[krs09]

There should be nothing connected to that white plug in the first picture. Remove the wire. As for the antennae, it looks like it is not original, it is a "Tri-Band". That's what they called them when they were AM, FM, and CB. Add a 10 A in-line fuse to the door lock circuit breaker (the big red wire). Yes, that is what it looks like when you dissect out an alarm and/or a cruise control. Be sure to properly seal all of the connections after removing all of that junk. When I have to remove that I try to remove every bit of wire and every non-stock connector. Your radio wiring will probably look very creative when you get to that area.
David Teitelbaum

Dead on about the radio, there was JVC crammed in there and not only did he ruin some of the wires but he man handled the radio bracket (triple stack) so now I have to try to straighten it out and make room for a little up grade... Thanks on the tips. Its so weird that the white connector just lays there. You would think it would plug into something... Weird.. Speaking of radio up grade, do you need an amp to just upgrade to a dated cd player and a new set of speakers? I'd like to think the car can handle it but the electrics are killin me.:cry:

[Addy]

Sorry to bring this one up from the dead, but I just picked up #958 and have the same loose connector as in picture #5. I did find its mate nearby. Did anyone ever figure out what it goes to other than "nothing important"?