Oil leak

[MML]

Hi folks.
I've noticed a few drips of oil under the car, possibly from that crankshaft seal that Ed replaces in the episode of Wheeler Dealers.... we haven't had an opportunity to investigate further yet, but in the meantime I was trying to track down a replacement just in case.

Is this the right one?
http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=34003
http://store.delorean.com/p-6074-sealing-ring-100-x-13.aspx

Is there a crossover part for this? Is it from a Renault?

Oh, and if it does turn out to be that seal, is there anything else worth checking/replacing/upgrading while we're in there?

Martin

[Spittybug]

That's him. I'd have the gasket seal on hand too. When I did mine a few years ago, I had to do it twice. The seal has a spring in the lip to make it seal better. The two ends of the spring interlock to make it a complete circle. Well, somehow or another mine came undone during the installation. After all was put back together I was leaking worse than when I started. A fresh seal (I didn't know it was the spring until afterwards) and all was fixed. Be very careful hammering this seal home; use an appropriate drift or very large washer to seat it properly.

The "while in there list" obviously includes all transmission and clutch things you might need to do so it is coming all the way out to do this work. Access to clutch slave is now at its best too, so clutch bleed and or slave replacement. Others will add to this list you can bet...........

[OverlandMan]

That's him. I'd have the gasket seal on hand too. When I did mine a few years ago, I had to do it twice. The seal has a spring in the lip to make it seal better. The two ends of the spring interlock to make it a complete circle. Well, somehow or another mine came undone during the installation. After all was put back together I was leaking worse than when I started. A fresh seal (I didn't know it was the spring until afterwards) and all was fixed. Be very careful hammering this seal home; use an appropriate drift or very large washer to seat it properly.

The "while in there list" obviously includes all transmission and clutch things you might need to do so it is coming all the way out to do this work. Access to clutch slave is now at its best too, so clutch bleed and or slave replacement. Others will add to this list you can bet...........

Spittybug - did you perform this project with the car on a lift like Edd China (Wheeler Dealers) used or something closer to the ground? I too have this on my long term list.

[MML]

That's him. I'd have the gasket seal on hand too. When I did mine a few years ago, I had to do it twice. The seal has a spring in the lip to make it seal better. The two ends of the spring interlock to make it a complete circle. Well, somehow or another mine came undone during the installation. After all was put back together I was leaking worse than when I started. A fresh seal (I didn't know it was the spring until afterwards) and all was fixed. Be very careful hammering this seal home; use an appropriate drift or very large washer to seat it properly.

The "while in there list" obviously includes all transmission and clutch things you might need to do so it is coming all the way out to do this work. Access to clutch slave is now at its best too, so clutch bleed and or slave replacement. Others will add to this list you can bet...........


Cheers Owen, you don't know the part number for the gasket seal offhand?
According to the PO he replaced the clutch 3 or 4 years ago, hopefully I don't need to do that again...

[Spittybug]

http://store.delorean.com/p-6075-gasket-rear-seal.aspx

I actually did this prior to having my MaxJax lift. It was a PITA to get the car up high enough to slide the transmission out from under the car from what I recall. Without a lift I would recommend finding some way to get higher clearance than jackstands or ramps. The bell of the transmission is quite tall. If you don't have a transmission jack I would also recommend getting one since the tranny is damned heavy and getting two people under there is tough. Harbor Freight (sorry, don't know about Ireland) has them cheap. Of course that leads to any transmission work..... 2nd gear roll pin or secondary shaft nut..... research the threads if these don't sound familiar to you!

I would also wait for Dave S. to jump into this thread with any words of wisdom. His advice on these things is always invaluable.

[MML]

We're fortunate to have a pit in the garage, so should be ok for dropping the transmission out! A lift would be nice though...

[Mark D]

Replacing this seal is also in my future unfortunately. :frown:

I'll probably tackle it next year sometime and do the 2nd gear roll pin, clutch and 5th gear end nut all at the same time.

[David T]

If the seal is leaking it is pretty easy to see but if you have a leak that looks like the pan gasket it is usually the oil sender for the light on the left, rear of the motor. That is also obvious once you start looking, it drips down onto the rail and runs all around the motor. Look up at the sender and it will be wet and dirty if it is leaking with a drip at the connector to the wire (which is probably crispy critters from the heat!). As for the seal, the hardest part is getting the pulley off. Most of the time it is difficult to get the nut loose. Remove the muffler and go at it with an air impact gun. Another leak source is the drain plug. Usually it is all munched up and the seal is often reused. If you do replace it use a magnetic one. Make sure you do not overfill the motor, that just makes it leak more.
David Teitelbaum

[Spittybug]

If the seal is leaking it is pretty easy to see but if you have a leak that looks like the pan gasket it is usually the oil sender for the light on the left, rear of the motor. That is also obvious once you start looking, it drips down onto the rail and runs all around the motor. Look up at the sender and it will be wet and dirty if it is leaking with a drip at the connector to the wire (which is probably crispy critters from the heat!). As for the seal, the hardest part is getting the pulley off. Most of the time it is difficult to get the nut loose. Remove the muffler and go at it with an air impact gun. Another leak source is the drain plug. Usually it is all munched up and the seal is often reused. If you do replace it use a magnetic one. Make sure you do not overfill the motor, that just makes it leak more.
David Teitelbaum

I think we've been talking about the seal on the flywheel side, not the belt side David. All other points well taken however.

[MML]

Thanks for all the comments guys, didn't get investigating yet as the brother has a car over the pit at the minute. I'm pretty sure it's not that oil pressure switch as it was replaced a few months ago, but we'll double check.

As for the 2nd gear roll pin and secondary shaft nut that was mentioned, are there any good how-tos kicking about?

[David T]

Oops. For the flywheel crank seal make sure the motor is not overfilled and has the correct oil. If it still leaks the tranny is coming out and you will probably also be doing a clutch. Not worth it unless it is leaking bad, otherwise just wait till you have to do the clutch. In the meantime check out all of the other leaks I mentioned. It can be difficult (and expensive) to get the Delorean leak-free.
David Teitelbaum