Slave cylinder

[steve6864]

I`m diving in.Today I install a new slave cylinder.The manual makes it sound so easy.Is it?Any tips?Sounds like I should access it from the bottom according to the manual.How about the bleeding part,is it difficult to get to the bleed screw?Thanks guys.6864.

[Mark D]

I'm about to replace mine as well...I have read here that it can be a royal pain in the ass. There are plenty of threads on the forum that describe how to do it. Search "clutch slave" and a bunch of info shows up.

I think the general consensus is that working from below the car seems to be the easiest way to remove and replace the slave cylinder. Bleeding the air out once installed isn't too hard to do from the top. You may want to remove the lower engine cover for better access behind the engine.

[uhhair]

I tried going at it from underneath but couldn't get it and ended up having to take off the entire intake. I should point out I'm not the best with cars though and I know that it can be done from underneath I just couldn't figure it out.

[David T]

As hard as it is to do from underneath, it is harder from on top unless you remove the intake manifold. The two screws are done blind (by feel) with long extentions and flex sockets and/or universal joints. If the metal pipe gives you trouble do not damage it, disconnect it from the plastic line and remove it attached to the slave cylinder. You can bend it enough to get it out connected to the slave cylinder. Don't do it with a hot motor, you will burn yourself on the exhaust pipe.
David Teitelbaum

[jawn101]

The bleed screw is tough to get to for sure. And make sure you clean up any spilled/dripped brake fluid immediately or it will eat everything it touches. Not impossible, but much easier and cleaner to do the whole job with the manifold out.

[Jacko]

Rest assured, replacing the clutch slave is an arduous job. It can be done from below or above but the most sensible to me is from above. Granted, you'll have to remove the intake manifold and fuel lines but as someone recently suggested you can use that time to inspect and tidy up the VOD. With the top of the engine cleared off the job is much easier than from below. When you get in there it is a good idea to replace the two capscrews that secure the slave with studs and nuts. The studs enable you to slip the slave in place rather than hunting for the holes to put in the capscrews. Another good idea is to install the bleeder that Special T and others sell. The next time it needs bleeding will be a simple operation. An even better idea is to take David T's advice and change the fluid every two years and maybe you'll never have to do it again!

There's been a lot of discussion here about what is the toughest job on a Delorean. Replacing the clutch master ranks near the top along with the fuel accumulator, removing and replacing the doors and replacing the TAB's on an automatic. They are all pretty hard.:banghead:

[Kevin]

Another option from above is to remove the louvres and engine cover, gives you the visibility and just enough access you need. downside is refitting the louvres afterwards. Luckily I was painting my louvres at the time so they were already off.

[jawn101]

Replacing the clutch master ranks near the top along with the fuel accumulator, removing and replacing the doors and replacing the TAB's on an automatic. They are all pretty hard.:banghead:

The master is wicked easy :) But we know what you meant!

DPI Josh once said he was anti-clutch bleeder because having to take the intake off to bleed the slave meant you were doing a bi-yearly inspection of the valley. I agree with that sentiment, but still have the bleeder installed in case I ever want to do a fluid change or quick bleed and don't want it to turn into a bigger job than it needs to be. I'll still do my valley inspections of my own accord :)

Also worth considering is Hervey's clutch cylinders. He sleeves them internally with stainless, which should dramatically increase their longevity if you neglect your clutch fluid changes. Not saying you should do that, but the little extra peace of mind is nice.

[ccurzio]

Rest assured, replacing the clutch slave is an arduous job. It can be done from below or above but the most sensible to me is from above. Granted, you'll have to remove the intake manifold and fuel lines but as someone recently suggested you can use that time to inspect and tidy up the VOD.

You don't really have to mess with the fuel lines. Once the intake manifold is out of the way, you're pretty well clear to replace the slave cylinder.

I had to do it in my car about a year ago.


Replacing the clutch master ranks near the top along with the fuel accumulator, removing and replacing the doors and replacing the TAB's on an automatic. They are all pretty hard.:banghead:

It's my understanding that replacing the fuel accumulator is a pretty straightforward and easy job. I've been researching it myself since I need to do it next week. Found this page:

http://jason.kitcarmagazine.com/delorean/fuelaccum.htm

[Jacko]

Chris, I'll be anxiously awaiting your comments on here after you do the fuel accumulator replacement ...

[DavidProehl]

Go at it from the bottom. It is a pain, but not the worst thing I've done. I personally think going into the valley is much harder and more involved (a lot more parts to potentially mess up). The biggest thing to watch out for is to not bend the hard line going into the slave. The adapter connected to the hardline that allows it to connect to the slave is often times seized, it was on mine. If you crank to hard the adapter will spin in your slave but not on the hard line, thus bending the hard line. Just be sure you are using two wrenches on it to hold the hard line in place. At least in my case two wrenches was enough to get it free without causing damage.

Once the hard line is free, it is super easy to remove, you need to remove two bolts semi-blind, they should come without much hassle. Remember the odd angles you have to use to pull out the slave, because you'll need to use those same odd turns to get it back in. Repositioning the new slave to get it to slide into place on the fork I found to be the hardest part of the job. It will go in, but you have to maneuverer it perfectly because there isn't a lot of wiggle room. If you get frustrated, step away for 30 min or so and try again.

It took me about 2 hours to remove the slave, and another 3 to install the new one. A long time yes, but having never replaced a slave cylinder on any car before, I felt pretty good about it. Bleeding was another headache, but I did that from underneath the car.

One other item to note: You may already know this, but typically you want to replace the master and slave at the same time. If you have an older master cylinder, it is possible it will fail soon when applying pressure to a new slave cylinder that offers more resistance than the old one.

[GS450-Junkie]

Also worth considering is Hervey's clutch cylinders. He sleeves them internally with stainless, which should dramatically increase their longevity if you neglect your clutch fluid changes. Not saying you should do that, but the little extra peace of mind is nice.

Just looked at these stainless clutch master cylinders and slaves on Hervey's website. Does anyone else have these stainless components on their car? I haven't heard many people talk about them and was wondering about this option. How are they? I'm poking around at all options right now as I was just informed my clutch/brake masters as well as my slave might wanna be replaced in the near future. I read about DMCH NOS units failing, some AMC crossover items, Bendix options, rebuild kits, etc. I'm exploring all my options....but on paper the stainless cylinders would make the most sense for longevity and peace of mind...but I hesitate with the source. I can't even get a straight answer about his clutch bleeder either. Every thread I read goes back and forth with that kit. Seems like a 50/50 review. One guy hates it and says it leaks when installed on the slave, the next guy says it's the best invention ever. I bought one, but haven't decided if it's going on yet. But...my main question and concern is in regards to the stainless clutch master and slave.

[David T]

Just looked at these stainless clutch master cylinders and slaves on Hervey's website. Does anyone else have these stainless components on their car? I haven't heard many people talk about them and was wondering about this option. How are they? I'm poking around at all options right now as I was just informed my clutch/brake masters as well as my slave might wanna be replaced in the near future. I read about DMCH NOS units failing, some AMC crossover items, Bendix options, rebuild kits, etc. I'm exploring all my options....but on paper the stainless cylinders would make the most sense for longevity and peace of mind...but I hesitate with the source. I can't even get a straight answer about his clutch bleeder either. Every thread I read goes back and forth with that kit. Seems like a 50/50 review. One guy hates it and says it leaks when installed on the slave, the next guy says it's the best invention ever. I bought one, but haven't decided if it's going on yet. But...my main question and concern is in regards to the stainless clutch master and slave.

The "secret" to longevity is to flush the fluid every 2 years. Even with S/S the seals can go bad (they are not made of S/S!).

[DrJeff]

Before paying out for the expensive options (complete replacement with stainless liners) I took the master and slave out of the car and inspected them. (Note: I couldn't release the hard pipe from the slave unit so I disconnected the hard-line at the connection to the flexible line and then remove the slave and the hard line together. Even outside the car I couldn't un-seize the hard-line). My cylinders looked fine so I just refurbished them myself with the Hervey seals kit - both master and slave - and refitted. They have been working perfectly - even through the ultimate clutch test - a 1.5 hr parade.

[GS450-Junkie]

The "secret" to longevity is to flush the fluid every 2 years. Even with S/S the seals can go bad (they are not made of S/S!).

But I would never have to buy new units though...so at some point down the road it only becomes a replacement of seals...and not a replacement of master and slave as well as seals.

[DavidProehl]

I have the DMCH master and slave cylinders. I've had them on for nearly two years, and they have worked flawlessly.

I also installed Hervey's bleeder, it has been trouble free and I'd install it again. I no longer hesitate to bleed the clutch like I would previously when it was a pain to get to, meaning that now my cylinders are better maintained. In every instance that I have heard of it leaking, it is because it wasn't installed with teflon tape on the threads.

[jawn101]

I'm pretty happy with Hervey's clutch cylinders and bleeder after a few thousand miles. I did run into a problem where his adjustable Clevis rod in the master was causing my clutch to engage slightly on very hot days, so I'd skip that if I did it over again. No issues with leaks or with the bleeder.

[David T]

I'm pretty happy with Hervey's clutch cylinders and bleeder after a few thousand miles. I did run into a problem where his adjustable Clevis rod in the master was causing my clutch to engage slightly on very hot days, so I'd skip that if I did it over again. No issues with leaks or with the bleeder.

The factory also had an adjustable clevis to try to overcome the "Red Hose Syndrome". The best thing to do is to remove any adjustable link and install a S/S braided hose from the master to the clutch slave.

[GS450-Junkie]

So why not make the brake master cylinder with a SS sleeve as well? Why only the clutch parts? Cost?

[John U]

I also have the remote bleeder and would definitely install it again. Teflon tape was a must to prevent leaking.
I just replaced my clutch reservoir hose and flushed fluid. Bleeder made it simple!

John

[David T]

I also have the remote bleeder and would definitely install it again. Teflon tape was a must to prevent leaking.
I just replaced my clutch reservoir hose and flushed fluid. Bleeder made it simple!

John

Last time I checked it was very expensive to have the master sleeved because of all of the holes that have to be drilled into it after you get the sleeve in. When compared to the other options, rebuilding or replacing, it doesn't make sense to spend the $$ to sleeve it. As I said, instead of trying to make the parts more robust it is easier and cheaper to flush the brake fluid. That has the additional benefit of having brake fluid with a high boiling point. As brake fluid gets old it adsorbs more and more atmospheric moisture which lowers the boiling point. When the boiling point gets low enough, under hard or prolonged braking, the fluid can boil and now you no longer have brakes! Forget about leaks! When the fluid gets that bad it also turns acidic and attacks the metal parts, corroding them. When the seals pass over the corrosion it damages them and makes them leak.