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View Full Version : Brake Brake light inop...sometimes



rothsean
10-01-2012, 06:15 PM
Ok, so my brake light decides today not to work when I turn the parking brake ON. It did this a few weeks ago during a drive, then started working again.

So now I want to fix it. I took the carpet off the parking brake cover and checked the switch connection, all good there.

What else should I check? Is there a way to see if the switch it bad?

Thanks!

Bitsyncmaster
10-01-2012, 07:25 PM
If it only has a problem with the parking lights on, you probably have a bad ground on the lights. Check the black wire on the faulty light.

outatym2001
10-01-2012, 07:28 PM
Most likely it's your Parking Brake Switch that is the problem. I just looked at mine and there is a black/white wire attached to it. You could disconnect the one wire and clean the connections with a stainless steel wire brush attached to a Dremel tool.
You could try spraying Electrical Contact Cleaner inside the switch. Just put a paper towel under the switch to collect any overspray.
I don't see any way to open the switch to clean the insides. Perhaps your only permanent solution is to buy a new switch.
Park Brake Switch, part number, 100822 $19.09.

rothsean
10-01-2012, 11:18 PM
Can I test the circuit to turn on the brake light? LIke ground out the black/white wire? I noticed another wire coming into the brake lever area that is just attached with a screw.

rothsean
10-01-2012, 11:19 PM
If it only has a problem with the parking lights on, you probably have a bad ground on the lights. Check the black wire on the faulty light.

What do you mean? What else besides the parking brake turns on the red dash "brake" light?

WelmoedJ
10-02-2012, 04:04 AM
What do you mean? What else besides the parking brake turns on the red dash "brake" light?

The "Brake" light in the instruments panel can be activated by two devices:
1. emergency brake switch
2. floating switch in the brake fluid reservoir

If the brake light doesn't come on when using the EB, it also can be a bad contact of the lamp fitting in the instruments panel or on the contacts of the circuit foil in there.

The wire that runs from the EB switch to a screw is ground.
You can check the light by connecting both wires with IGN key ON.

Bitsyncmaster
10-02-2012, 04:27 AM
Brake light?????

I thought you were taking about the brake light on the rear of the car.

David T
10-02-2012, 10:01 AM
The brake warning light in the dash lights under 2 conditions.
1) when you engage the E Brake (aka parking brake)
2) when the fluid level is low in the master cylinder reservoir.
To test the light you can lift the brake handle OR you can press on the black button in the center of the brake cap. You could also unscrew and lift the cap out and allow the fluid to drain.
David Teitelbaum

rothsean
10-02-2012, 10:58 AM
The brake warning light in the dash lights under 2 conditions.
1) when you engage the E Brake (aka parking brake)
2) when the fluid level is low in the master cylinder reservoir.
To test the light you can lift the brake handle OR you can press on the black button in the center of the brake cap. You could also unscrew and lift the cap out and allow the fluid to drain.
David Teitelbaum

Yeah, my light is intermittent. It did not turn on yesterday when I set the parking brake. I took off the carpet cover and cleaned the black/white wire connections. I also removed the wire and touched it to what looks like a ground wire that is screwed into the barking brake handle body. The light did not come on either (key was ON). Does that mean the switch is ok and the problem is in the dash light connection?

Dangermouse
10-02-2012, 11:46 AM
Try #2 of Davids suggestion. Lift the sensor out of the reservoir. If the dash light comes on, then you know it's the switch.

Ron
10-02-2012, 01:30 PM
Try #2 of Davids suggestion. Lift the sensor out of the reservoir. If the dash light comes on, then you know it's the switch.
Odds are, but don't forget that the Black/White wire from the instrument panel branches to each switch...

Turn the key to RUN (Engine OFF), pull the handle, take a long wire and connect one end to the Battery (-) terminal, start where the black wire goes to ground (a screw), now connect it to each connection working your way back toward the bulb. If the light comes on, you are at a bad connection or just passed the culprit. (Pierce the Black/White wire under the instrument panel last...the remainder of the wire and its connection to the printed circuit is all that is left...). A PIA, but you can get to the bulb without removing the instrument panel if your hands aren't too big (kids ARE good for something). Carefully wiggle/turn it slightly to check connections, trying not to take it out first unless you want swap out the bulb while you are at it...clean the the holder connections and check the tension on its terminals. If it still don't light, and the Oil or Batt light works, odds are the trace/connection is bad since they all have the same power source.
Same procedure works for checking the Reservoir switch/circuit (turn it upside down to begin...).