View Full Version : Frame & Body Is it normal for the door to be tougher to close after new weather stripping??
rothsean
10-01-2012, 06:17 PM
I installed inner stripping today and door is harder to shut. Still closes but I have to put more pressure on it. This weather stripping is from DMCH.
mluder
10-01-2012, 06:35 PM
I installed inner stripping today and door is harder to shut. Still closes but I have to put more pressure on it. This weather stripping is from DMCH.
That is normal (within reason). If it's improperly installed you could have problems too.
I think there's at least one thread here (might have been on the old site) about the proper way to install. If I recall there are certain areas that benefit from having the strip bend either outward or inward. Some one can correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that outside corners (like the top of the a pillar) want to turn the weatherstripping out and inside corners (like top of the door near the torsion bar) want to trun in.
You will also want to get some silicon lubricant to grease them up too so they stay soft and plyable. If you dont they well start tearing pretty quicly because of the closing action.
Cheers
Steven
DMCMW Dave
10-01-2012, 09:14 PM
Put some clear silicone grease all over the weatherstrip. You should only need to do this one time.
outatym2001
10-01-2012, 09:20 PM
Different DeLorean parts vendors sell a different version of the Inner Door Seal. The doors on my July, 1981 DeLorean close perfectly if I do not have the Inner Door Seals installed. Then when I install the Door Seals the doors push back as I hear the door latches click and I have to push extra hard to get the doors to close.
Do like Steven Maquire suggested and get some silicone spray or lube and lube the Door Seals.
I have already done like others and used a heat gun on the vinyl at the top of the A Pillar and peeled back the vinyl to expose the fiberglass underbody. Then I used a block of wood with 60 grit sand paper and sanded down a tiny portion of the fiberglass where the Inner Door Seal wraps around. It helped a little so the stainless steel door would stop scraping the Inner Door Seal at the top of the A Pillar.
David T
10-02-2012, 10:06 AM
If the anchor pins were adjusted to the old, dead, ripped, flat weather stripping then you may need to readjust them. As mentioned different vendors sell different seals so it is possible what you have now is a little taller than what was in the car. If it doesn't get any better in a while you might have to adjust the pins.
David Teitelbaum
rothsean
10-02-2012, 10:55 AM
If the anchor pins were adjusted to the old, dead, ripped, flat weather stripping then you may need to readjust them. As mentioned different vendors sell different seals so it is possible what you have now is a little taller than what was in the car. If it doesn't get any better in a while you might have to adjust the pins.
David Teitelbaum
How do you adjust the anchor pins? Where are they?
John U
10-02-2012, 12:07 PM
How do you adjust the anchor pins? Where are they?
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?322-Door-Striker-Pin-Alignment
Try this link
John
SIMid
10-03-2012, 01:55 AM
My passenger door sticks when you open it as the rubber catches the door. I thought that maybe someone had closed the door incorrectly, causing out of alignment.
I tried silicone and that did not work.
After playing around for a bit, I resolved it by sticking black gaffer tape along the pillar (from the top corner, down roughly 350mm), pulling the rubber into the pillar. Now she opens in one smooth action. Seems like when the door is closed, it folds the rubber onto itself, causing it to become tight by grabbing the door. I have left the tape on the door for around 3 months now. Will wait till after the summer and take it off to see if it holds memory.
FABombjoy
10-03-2012, 10:29 AM
Before adjusting striker pins:
I've been through a few different sets of inner seals, and both times the new seal grabs the door and/or trim when opening and closing.
Slowly close one of the affected doors and watch the clearance between the seal and the door. You may see it grab and get pinched along the roof or windshield line.
The seals I bought many years ago from PJ Grady were unworkable. They grabbed no matter what and I could not adjust them for the better.
I switched to the DMCH seals and they were much better but still caught in a few spots, all of which could be adjusted out by moving the seal up and down, or bending the seals channel to force the bulb further away from the door. I also strategically used the bag of holding clips to reposition the seals in a few trouble spots.
Unfortunately the DMCH seals are flimsy and were torn before I could complete the adjustments. They still keep water out but their appearance is bothersome.
David T
10-03-2012, 11:39 AM
In some areas of the door the seals are not compressed as much as slid over. Sometimes as the door is closed the seal is "rolled over" more than is compressed. One way to fix that is to clean the S/S on the door in that spot very good and then wipe some silicone onto the S/S, not the door seal, so the rubber seal can slide better. Those are the spots where the door seals are ripped first, on the top, towards the front.
David Teitelbaum
rothsean
10-03-2012, 11:53 AM
I sprayed silicone spray on the entire weather stripping and now my doors close a lot better, I don't have to slam them too hard.
Thanks for the advice!
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