Best Way to Fix this Damage

[orbitron3000]

It's finally time that I got around to fixing some scrapes on the Rear Quarter Panel.

Pictures of the scrapes:
1376613767

I've looked through some existing threads on stainless repair:
Help with blending (dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2395-Help-with-blending/page2)
Panel-re-graining (dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1877-Panel-re-graining)
Regraining-Stainless (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?36-Regraining-Stainless)
OFFICIAL-Re-graining-Stainless-Thread (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1245-OFFICIAL-Re-graining-Stainless-Thread)

...and want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before I try and do this myself. I'm hoping I haven't missed this somewhere in these threads, but I could not find a "step by step" idiot's guide to "not totally ruining the panel while regraining". I thought I remember on the old site there was a dedicated "How To" but I may be misremembering.

From perusing these and other threads, for small repairs such as mine, I think this may be the procedure to follow, and I'd like to get some input from everyone here to make sure this is the "correct" way to go about repairing small scrapes on the stainless.

According to posts made by Soundkillr and David T:

Blend pads may do the trick, the sand paper is for doing scratch removal, and regraining. Dont let the sanding scare you, its not bad. Once done go over with your blending pad.

(Some tips and tricks in boldface)

To take out scratches and straighten the grain you use 80# or 120#. 120 will take longer and leave finer scratches. After using the sandpaper go over it with the blending pad aka Scotch-Brite. The Delorean has what is known as a #2 finish. It is a rougher finish than what is on most kitchen appliances. In the beginning till you get good at it use a line of masking tape to stay straight. Beginners tend to move in an arc making the grain turn at the ends of the stroke. Use 2 hands and maintain even pressure. Cover the side mouldings, mirrors, trim, and the facias with tape to prevent damage. Use as light a pressure as you can on the hood to avoid the dreaded X pattern.
David Teitelbaum

...I have put together the following procedure, that I would appreciate some feedback on.

Materials:
80 Grit Sandpaper, Aluminum Oxide
120 Grit Sandpaper, Aluminum Oxide
Blending Pad (DMCH, or Scotch-Brite)

Procedure:
1) Start with 80 Grid Sandpaper and use two hands to keep constant pressure on surface, making as straight as lines as possible.
2) Once surface is adequately removed of visible scratches, move to 120 Grit.
3) Use blending pad to blend newly grained surface with existing grain.

[Soundkillr]

First thing I would do is wipe the area with thinner. A lot of the damage looks like paint transfer from a garage door or something.

[Kenny_Z]

Get a nice sturdy foam sanding pad. It'll help you to keep the even pressure. I love the Durablock products. I have the whole line and have used them on the Delorean and my other cars. http://www.eastwood.com/2-5-8x5-5-in-hook-and-loop-sanding-block.html

There is something you left out, patience. I spent a good 12 hours getting scratches out of Red's Tpanel. Thankfully nothing will happen if you stop for a few hours or days to recover. Your arms will ache ;)

[David T]

Go to Eastwood.com. They have metalworking tools and they also have a great book on metalworking. The Key to Metal Bumping # 31063 for $17.99. You will need the proper hammers and dollies to fix this. It looks worse than it really is once you remove the stuff that appears smeared on the metal. To get into that area you may even have to make up a special dolly to fit into the lip around the wheel. You can start with one of their kits of hammers and dollies for about $150. For very small repairs you can even use a wooden dolly if you have to. Best if you can practice on something other than your car first. Spot repairs and blending will stick out. Figure on going over the whole car once you get good at this so it all looks good.
David Teitelbaum

[orbitron3000]

First thing I would do is wipe the area with thinner. A lot of the damage looks like paint transfer from a garage door or something.

D'oh! Yea a bit of lacquer thinner took that scuffed look right out. Turns out there really wasn't much damage at all to the panel. Tiny scrapes, nothing more.



Get a nice sturdy foam sanding pad. It'll help you to keep the even pressure. I love the Durablock products. I have the whole line and have used them on the Delorean and my other cars. http://www.eastwood.com/2-5-8x5-5-in-hook-and-loop-sanding-block.html

There is something you left out, patience. I spent a good 12 hours getting scratches out of Red's Tpanel. Thankfully nothing will happen if you stop for a few hours or days to recover. Your arms will ache ;)

On the bright side my forearms will look jacked afterwards haha

Did you find it easier to remove certain panels from the car to work on them?

[orbitron3000]

Go to Eastwood.com. They have metalworking tools and they also have a great book on metalworking. The Key to Metal Bumping # 31063 for $17.99. You will need the proper hammers and dollies to fix this. It looks worse than it really is once you remove the stuff that appears smeared on the metal. To get into that area you may even have to make up a special dolly to fit into the lip around the wheel. You can start with one of their kits of hammers and dollies for about $150. For very small repairs you can even use a wooden dolly if you have to. Best if you can practice on something other than your car first. Spot repairs and blending will stick out. Figure on going over the whole car once you get good at this so it all looks good.
David Teitelbaum

Many thanks! I will have to check this out.

[Kenny_Z]

Did you find it easier to remove certain panels from the car to work on them?

The Tpanel was the only piece I worked on. It was definitely easier working off the car but mainly because of its location. For that area I'd leave it on the car for a few reasons. One, it won't move around on you. Two, it won't slice into your skin. Three, you can get comfy on the floor to sand it. Four, it won't cut you...seriously, I can't stress that enough. Blood on stainless would make a good band name but it's hard to clean up.