New fuel pump and sender installed.

[cybercusp]

Took about 2hrs..but I now have a functioning fuel gauge. The cover however does not bolt down all the way, although I don't think that will be an issue. 13875
13876
13877

[Rich06]

Looks very nice Michael!

[refugeefromcalif]

Michael, Let us know how Accurate you find the new fuel sender is.

My D's gauge has become, Untrustworthy.
I was showing empty today and the low fuel light kept coming on so I went and filled it up. It would only take 7.4 gallons? :confused:
According to my miles driven, I did get 22 mpg around town. :)

George

[Citizen]

The cover however does not bolt down all the way, although I don't think that will be an issue.

I have that same problem after having installed the new style pump/sender unit...cover won't go down all the way. I've been trying to think of a solution, but as of yet, I haven't come up with anything. Hate to leave the cover loose, 'cause road dust/water can get into the luggage compartment.

Anyone else with the new fuel pump/sender unit have this problem? And what did you do about it?

Thomas

...

[DeLorean03]

Fancy dancy - looks sharp.

So did you have to do some crimping with that plug on the top of the new sending unit to the top-left ? That sure doesn't look factory.

Where is some info on this upgrade. I don't mean a forum topic - I mean a solid, dedicated page on one of the vendor's websites? I would love to do this upgrade, but I want some really thorough pictures and descriptions as to what I am getting and what I am expected to do for $400.

[Lukas]

I routed the hoses as in the picture below, which is different to the first pictures posted. The cover is slightly harder to screw in but closes securely.

There shouldn't be any crimping requiring - the original connectors should plug straight in to the new unit.

[cybercusp]

Lukas- it looks like my cover is bumping into the electrical connection on top of the unit..my hoses clear. The orientation of our pumps looks similar to me so I'm not sure why mine isn't allowing the cover to seat. I wonder if I have it compressed into the tank far enough.

I believe that even though the cover allows a gap, the luggage compartment baseboard keeps any residual water from entering into the trunk. Just the same I'd like the access panel to seal down. I'll call Dave at DMCMW and see if they have any thoughts on it.

@George- the fuel gauge seems accurate so far based on my estimates of how much fuel is in the tank. I'm going to run it down until the low fuel light comes on and then see how much fuel is required to fill up. The needle so far is rock steady at 1/4 tank with no bouncing/fluctuation.

[Lukas]

It's difficult to tell from just the photos, but your fuel pump hoses appear to be pointing more towards the L front wheel. My hoses are pointed at the steering wheel and binnacle. Although I can't see that being a huge issue, maybe it gives a bit more clearance to the access panel.

My low fuel light turned on at just under 1/8 of a tank. I didn't fill up all the way afterwards though.

[DeLorean03]

Ok, I am honestly not trying to play devil's advocate or be an ass - I'm just flat-out asking.

For $400, what else does this do besides make the fuel needle more accurate and steady?

Just asking. I have John Hervey's setup, and I like the look of DMCH's unit, but I am honestly asking myself "Is this worth the money?" - for me - as my setup works well and the "roaming needle" doesn't really bother me that much.

Not trying to start anything - it just seems like a good number of people must have been runnin stock setups, and this is a huge jump up, whereas for me, it would be "convenient" but not quite the jump like "VHS to DVD" seems to be for everyone that had stock pump setups.

[DMCMW Dave]

I believe that even though the cover allows a gap, the luggage compartment baseboard keeps any residual water from entering into the trunk. Just the same I'd like the access panel to seal down. I'll call Dave at DMCMW and see if they have any thoughts on it.

.

Rotate the whole thing counterclockwise as far as you can. There is a "flat" area on the top of the assembly that must face the front of the car. The hose outlets on the pump should be aimed toward the binnacle as mentioned, i.e. almost against the body. The cover plate should not be hitting the electrical connector.

Also there does seem to be variation in the shape of the tank and the fiberglass from car to car. After you get the pump re-oriented, start the installation of the cover by starting (do not tighten) the three screws that are closest to the front of the car. Then sort of "rotate" the cover into position and put the top center screw in while pressing on the cover plate. This leverage forces the tank down and the fiberglass up (both very slightly). Then you can install the rest of the screws.

[lindbergh]

I installed mine a couple weeks ago and for me it is worth it simply because it is plastic and don't have to worry about ethanol eating the rubber boot of the other type pump systems. My boot was very sticky when I removed it and was starting to deteriorate. It was not the original, it was the Hervey replacement which as far as design is better than the original, but still has the rubber boot that in my opinion should be replaced yearly if you are using fuel with ethanol in it.

It took a bit but I was able to successfully clamp the pump and the tank lip to lock it in place, although the gasket was tight enough to hold it in place.

[stevedmc]

For $400, what else does this do besides make the fuel needle more accurate and steady?

Besides the improved fuel gauge movement, you are getting a baffle that has an actual valve that holds fuel. That is the only real improvement that I see.

Personally, I prefer having the fuel pump and the fuel sender separate. I really like my $99 DMCH fuel sender. Now when/if my fuel sender dies, I won't be able to give my business to DMCMW and will have to purchase a replacement from Hervey. So far though, I only have good stuff to say about the DMCH fuel sender. I've had it about two years and it hasn't failed yet.

[cybercusp]

@DeLorean03- I think if your setup is working fine then IMO I wouldn't consider replacing it just for the sake of replacing it. But in my case I had a bum sending unit which dictated replacing the sending unit with one of similar quality, or this new setup. DMCMW has them and those folks are extremely easy to work with and more than helpful, as evidenced by Dave's post above.

Dave- at the time of install I tried the method of installing the lower forward three screws and then working my way rearward, but the cover plate hole was still off by about a 1/2" at the top. Variation in my tank setup maybe? I'll try rotating the pump and see if I can get a better result, but it looked like the hoses might kink against the fuel inlet hose and swinging the pump counterclockwise might move the electrical connector even further against the cover? Should the cover sit on top of the connector?

[DMCMW Dave]

to


Dave- at the time of install I tried the method of installing the lower forward three screws and then working my way rearward, but the cover plate hole was still off by about a 1/2" at the top. Variation in my tank setup maybe? I'll try rotating the pump and see if I can get a better result, but it looked like the hoses might kink against the fuel inlet hose and swinging the pump counterclockwise might move the electrical connector even further against the cover? Should the cover sit on top of the connector?

The cover should hit the "flat" part of the pump (actually the clamp), with the electrical connector and the hoses out of the way. I think the hoses are supposed to go over the top rather than around the front. Take another look at the instuction sheet - the photo in that should be pretty clear. I'd post it here but I can't find it on this computer at the moment.