Screw holding the rotor in stripped. Now what?

[nullset]

The screw that holds the rear rotor in on 2072 stripped when I tried to remove it. It's pretty badly rusted.

What are my options?

Slotting it with a dremel and removing it? Drilling it out? Is there an alternate way to get the rotor out to make this job easier?

Thanks,

--buddy

[David T]

I am assuming you mean the head is messed up and you can no longer get a screwdriver to turn it. The best way to have tried to remove it is with an impact driver. I am also assuming you are trying to remove the rotor to either have it cut or replaced. At this point you only choice is to drill the screw out carefully. Trying to cut a new slot in it to turn it isn't going to work.
David Teitelbaum

[DMC5180]

Not that it matters at this point, but did you use an impact driver or impact wrench to try to break it loose? These screws have Loctite on them from the factory and usually require impact or heat persuasion to get them loose. The Service manual says to apply loctite on these at re-assembly too.

As for dealing with the situation now, drilling for a the correct screw extractor would be the appropriate method to remove it. perhaps a little heat too. A bottle torch will do the job easily.

[Kenny_Z]

I'd recommend a very sharp punch, hammer, and lots of penetrating oil. Center the punch in the screw and tap it lightly after using the oil. It might loosen it up to let the oil do it's job on the rust.

I've had good luck with extractors that have what looks like a very sharp curved phillips head. These aren't like broken bolt extractors as they don't drill into the screw and if they break they aren't going to get lodged in there. We sold them when I worked at the Black and Decker outlet.

http://www.justtools.com.au/images/820-grabit_pro.jpg

I only used the end that grabs the head, not the drill part. I think ours were nicer than this, they were carbide. I never broke the tip of once of these but I did twist the head off a couple of screws. They're also useful on a lot of those security screw heads.

[nullset]

And of course, the other side had no screw at all. Are these screws optional? Or was someone being lazy on reassembly?

While I'm talking about this...my other car (2930) had spacer plates between the studs and the wheel. My daily driver does not. Are they supposed to be there?

--buddy

[DMCMW Dave]

And of course, the other side had no screw at all. Are these screws optional? Or was someone being lazy on reassembly?

While I'm talking about this...my other car (2930) had spacer plates between the studs and the wheel. My daily driver does not. Are they supposed to be there?

--buddy

The screws are completely un-necessary. They are there to keep the rotors from falling on your feet after the caliper is off (more likely before it is installed in the factory). Once the caliper, and the wheel, are in place, that rotor isn't going anywhere.

[DMC5180]

Clarification: The use of loctite that I mentioned above, is for the bolts holding the front brake rotors to hubs. Not the rear disc screws.

[DMCMW Dave]

my other car (2930) had spacer plates between the studs and the wheel. My daily driver does not. Are they supposed to be there?

--buddy

Yes -but if your rear tires/wheels don't hit the bottom of the shock on turns (look for marks) you either don't need them or you don't drive the car very hard.

http://store.delorean.com/p-7431-adapter-plate.aspx

Sorry missed that question the first time.

[dustybarn]

The same thing happened to me when I tried to change the front rotors in my Smart Car; the screws are made of really soft material. I just drilled the heads right off and didn't bother replacing them. They're mainly there to keep the rotors in place on the assembly line until the calipers and wheels go on.

[Dangermouse]

While I'm talking about this...my other car (2930) had spacer plates between the studs and the wheel. My daily driver does not. Are they supposed to be there?

--buddy

Aren't the rears on 2930 up sized at 265's instead of 235's?

I guess the spacers are to keep the wheels off the frame like Dave notes

[nullset]

I drilled it out and it gave pretty easily. Thanks Dave.

Dangermouse, yeah, she has wider than normal tires. The tires on 2072 are actually narrower, so I suppose it's fine.

Is the use of anti seize or loctite recommended on any of the brake / caliper mounting bolts or anything else in the brake system?

Thanks,

--buddy

[searsgremlin]

sometimes using a smaller sized left hand drill will cause the screw to back out. be careful of not good quality screw extractor sets. i had a mac tools extractor set and a broken off bolt in my datsun z cylinder head. the stud is steel and the head is aluminum. but long story short the screw extractor broke off in the bolt and since it was hardened i could not drill it out, i ended up having to use my plasma cutter to burn the rest of the stud out and i was able to drill and re-tap the whole bigger. just sharing some info.....

[refugeefromcalif]

The screws are completely un-necessary. They are there to keep the rotors from falling on your feet after the caliper is off (more likely before it is installed in the factory). Once the caliper, and the wheel, are in place, that rotor isn't going anywhere.

Good to know about the screw Dave.
I'm getting ready to replace the RR rotor, and pads on both sides.
Does the hydraulic brake line Have to be disconected from the caliper to replace the rotor? Can the caliper be un-bolted, (after disconnecting the parking cable), and moved out of the way?
My fluid is good and I'd rather not have too bleed the system just replacing the rotor.
Thanks in advance!

George

[DMCMW Dave]

Does the hydraulic brake line Have to be disconected from the caliper to replace the rotor? Can the caliper be un-bolted, (after disconnecting the parking cable), and moved out of the way?

George

It's a metal line going to the caliper. The caliper can be lifted enough to clear the rotor, the line has enough give in it. Just be very careful not to kink the line (you may need to pop it out of the plastic clip) and be sure to adequately secure the caliper from above (hang it from the spring, for example) so it can't fall.

[Andrew]

I slotted the stripped screw head with a die grinder, heated the screw up with MAPP gas then used my biggest flat head screw driver to remove it.

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