Car lurches a bit when in slow traffic

[AirmanPika]

So I fixed some idle speed issues I was having recently. Didn't take into account that the engine moves forward a few millimeters when it is on, so the idle speed switch was not getting engaged. Now that that's fixed and I adjusted my mixture so that the idle is proper, I am noticing a new issue. When in stop and go traffic, as I have to feather between the gas and clutch a lot, I notice the car lurches more than it should. Is this a symptom of the switch being disengaged too early or late?

Also I noticed that after initial startup before I drive it idles like a champ, but that my car likes to die at a stop sometimes in the first 5 minutes its on when I start driving. After it has warmed up a bit from driving its fine. Any thoughts here?

[Bitsyncmaster]

My car will be quite jerky in first and second gear (in traffic). When your idle speed was high it probably made that issue less noticeable.

If your mixture is adjusted properly, the WUR would most likely be to blame for poor idle when cold. Have you cleaned the screen in the WUR?

[AirmanPika]

Have you cleaned the screen in the WUR?

Wasn't aware they had one. Do I need to pull the WUR and open it? I can't see where a screen would be otherwise.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Wasn't aware they had one. Do I need to pull the WUR and open it? I can't see where a screen would be otherwise.

The screen is in the inlet. You remove the hoses and you should see it looking into the pipe where the hose connects. Blow it out with compressed air or the air from one of those canned air cans.

[AirmanPika]

Ah ok. I actually just pulled the WUR now. I wanna take a good look at it since I'm in there. This should be fun...the last time I disconnected a fuel line in my engine bay I set my engine on fire :)

[Rich]

13994

This is what you are looking for. Caption is in line with the cleaning recommendation from Bitsync.

Taken from a doc via a search on "Bosch warm up regulator cleaning".

Too late for you, but the screen can be cleaned with the WUR still mounted.

[AirmanPika]

Well I think its fixed (we'll know when I go to drive it perfectly cold). I'm actually wondering if it was the connector because there was a massive amount of corrosion in there. Seems there was a split in the rubber boot on top of the connector that had let water in. I sealed that up and cleaned up the connector, along with the rest of the unit as mentioned before. Interior wise it was almost flawless so not much needed there. Fingers crossed and thanks for the info.

[AirmanPika]

OK well so much for that fix. My car still wants to die when cold (overnight cold...after work its still OK) when I first get out on the road and come to a stop. It actually seems worse. The WUR was pristine inside so I can't imagine why it isn't working unless the connector is shot...or its something else. One other thing I noticed is a slight hesitation/stutter when I punch the car as if its not getting gas initially. Only lasts a few seconds right after the stall. My tank is full and I've replaced the accumulator and pump in the last few months so I don't see either of them as the problem. I get the feeling the stall and stutter are related though. Once the car is warmed up to operating temp it runs like a champ. Its only when cold that these things happen.

[Rich]

Also check both the fat and the skinny vac hoses that come off either side of the base of the WUR, along with the little hoses all around it. Splits and cracks can be a problem there.

Had a leak at the nearby tee that caused a cold-only stumble which cleared up when I replaced the hose.

[jawn101]

Also check both the fat and the skinny vac hoses that come off either side of the base of the WUR, along with the little hoses all around it. Splits and cracks can be a problem there.

Had a leak at the nearby tee that caused a cold-only stumble which cleared up when I replaced the hose.

+1, this exact same thing happened to me and it was a free fix to trim the end of the hose and stick it back on.