Which line is which? From control valve to heater core, and pipe on valley to heater

[1batt4u]

Hi all,

The hoses have been removed from the control valve and pipe on valley, and can't remember where the correct hoses go now.

Looking on the bottom, one pipe is on top and the other is on the bottom.

Does the top pipe go to heater control valve??

[dmc6960]

If your referencing the long heater line pipes running the length of the car, it does not matter.

What does matter, is that one of your heater hoses has a larger end than the others. It is critically important that that larger end is attached to the pipe coming out of the valley of the engine. Its a different size than the body lines or the control valve.

Also remember that the coolant comes out of the driver's side head, into a Tee for bleeding air into the coolant tank, then to the heater control valve, then down to the body lines.

[1batt4u]

If your referencing the long heater line pipes running the length of the car, it does not matter.

What does matter, is that one of your heater hoses has a larger end than the others. It is critically important that that larger end is attached to the pipe coming out of the valley of the engine. Its a different size than the body lines or the control valve.

Also remember that the coolant comes out of the driver's side head, into a Tee for bleeding air into the coolant tank, then to the heater control valve, then down to the body lines.

I don't have hoses on them. I need to put the new silicone hoses on the pipes on the frame and need to know which is which. I know that the hose with larger end goes on the valley pipe, trying to figure which of the 2 pipes on the bottom frame do I put the hose on, top or bottom pipe.

[dmc6960]

It does not matter.

[steve]

Does it matter what part of the T goes to the coolant tank? What I have is the coolant tank line on the top of the T and the heater control
from the stem of the T. I ask because I can't bleed the system and trust it. I get an air bubble at odd times, car overheats. The diagrams
are not really explaining much.

Steve

[CFI]

Does it matter what part of the T goes to the coolant tank? What I have is the coolant tank line on the top of the T and the heater control
from the stem of the T. I ask because I can't bleed the system and trust it. I get an air bubble at odd times, car overheats. The diagrams
are not really explaining much.

Steve

Get yourself an auto-bleeding kit. They are well worth the money for cars that suffer random overheats due to bubbles.

[steve]

Thats the direction I've been thinking.:)

[Rich]

Check out this diagram. The tee is called the Bleed Adaptor. #5 in the list.

https://store.delorean.com/c-363-7-1-3-heating-system.aspx

Upper/middle port of the adapter is for the hose running to the neck of the coolant tank.

You may not need an auto-bleeder although lots of folks use them. With the stock (non-auto-bleed) setup I've changed-refilled coolant reliably many times. With car level, the car cold, the coolant tank near-full and the rad cap removed (for venting) bleed the radiator first. Disconnect the small hose from the upper right (bleed) port of the radiator. After pulling the hose off alternately cover/uncover the hose end and the port til you get coolant to flow from both that port and the hose. Reconnect hose, top up coolant at least halfway in tank. Radiator is bled. Only then work on bleeding engine at the thermostat housing. Plenty of advice in this other thread (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12100-Coolant-System-Bleeding&highlight=bleeding+coolant) on bleeding.


Does it matter what part of the T goes to the coolant tank? What I have is the coolant tank line on the top of the T and the heater control
from the stem of the T. I ask because I can't bleed the system and trust it. I get an air bubble at odd times, car overheats. The diagrams
are not really explaining much.

Steve