Otterstat Replacement method

[Doogie]

So, I finally got my idle hunting to go away with a little "turn it by ear" of the mixture adjustment screw, and after listening to the sweet lone drum of my engine finally purring like a kitten, about 4 minutes into it, the seal on the otterstat starts peeing directly onto the drivers side exhaust manifold, causing quite the steam show!

So Julie from DMCMW sends me a new Otterstat and seal and clip.

Question? What's the best way to replace it? I saw Nick do it once, by loosening the pipe clamps, rotating it so that the Otterstat wires were pointing UP, then removing it and replacing it. I'm afraid to introduce leaks if I loosen the pipe and rotate it. These are the original hoses.

So, can I just cut the wire tire, remove the wire clip, then pop out the Otterstat and jam the new one in the hole and put the clip back on? Obvisouly I'll loose a little anti-freeze, but am I am asking for a whole lotta trouble by doing this?

Thoughts/comments/opinions?

Thanks!
Doogie

[DMCMW Dave]

You can do it as you described if you work fast. Do it with the engine cold and leave the cap on the header bottle. Pull out the old one and put a finger over the seal. Then quickly pop the seal out and a new one in. Then put the otterstat into the seal. Once it's in it won't lose any more fluid and you can put the clip on. I do this from above (working blind) and can do it like this 9 times out of 10 and not lose more than a few ounces of coolant.

BTW There are two styles of that pipe and one of them is a pain in the neck because it is easy to push the seal too far into the hole. If that happens you will end up losing more coolant as you dig it back out. If that happens you will need to bleed the system at the thermostat housing, but that isn't really the end of the world (*unless your bleeder is stuck or breaks off - that's a bigger problem).

Most important thing - DON'T drop the new otterstat on the garage floor. They are ridiculously fragile. Might even be worth putting some towels on the ground so that if you do drop it, it is a softer landing.

One more thing - the new clip isn't the greatest fit in the world but it will work much better than the flat one.

[David T]

If you have original hoses they should all be replaced. Once you replace the otterstadt switch and seal you will just pop the system in the next most vulnerable place. I am guessing you also have the original water pump? You need to replace EVERY hose, seal and gasket in the cooling system, the plastic header bottle, idler bearings, water pump and radiator. Anything less and you are taking too big a risk of blowing all of your coolant out and overheating the motor. These parts are over 30 years old and were never meant to last even 10 years!
David Teitelbaum

[DMCVegas]

One more thing - the new clip isn't the greatest fit in the world but it will work much better than the flat one.

I hate that clip setup. I ended up using a long hose clamp to keep my Otterstat in place after having it snap loose while driving.

[DeLorean03]

Do NOT use only the clip. Use a zip-tie. Run it between the two male spade connectors of the otterstat and zip that sucker down. Have a spare one in your trunk/emergency toolkit/inside lock box behind driver's seat.

[Doogie]

You can do it as you described if you work fast. Do it with the engine cold and leave the cap on the header bottle. Pull out the old one and put a finger over the seal. Then quickly pop the seal out and a new one in. Then put the otterstat into the seal. Once it's in it won't lose any more fluid and you can put the clip on. I do this from above (working blind) and can do it like this 9 times out of 10 and not lose more than a few ounces of coolant.

BTW There are two styles of that pipe and one of them is a pain in the neck because it is easy to push the seal too far into the hole. If that happens you will end up losing more coolant as you dig it back out. If that happens you will need to bleed the system at the thermostat housing, but that isn't really the end of the world (*unless your bleeder is stuck or breaks off - that's a bigger problem).

Most important thing - DON'T drop the new otterstat on the garage floor. They are ridiculously fragile. Might even be worth putting some towels on the ground so that if you do drop it, it is a softer landing.

One more thing - the new clip isn't the greatest fit in the world but it will work much better than the flat one.

Thanks Dave! I did just as you said. The old one was a RED Rubber piece that was relatively Hard, I had to quickly dig it out with a screwdriver. I prolly lost maybe a cup of coolant? I used the new Otterstat, Seal, and Clip,, and followed it up with a zip tie between the spade connectors and around the pipe. I let the car warm up to operating temp, and watched the temp gauge and the seal. The seal held, and the system cycled up the fans and cooled off quickly to let the fans shut off.

So, a quick drive up the street and back, a leak check, and I think we're in business!

[Doogie]

If you have original hoses they should all be replaced. Once you replace the otterstadt switch and seal you will just pop the system in the next most vulnerable place. I am guessing you also have the original water pump? You need to replace EVERY hose, seal and gasket in the cooling system, the plastic header bottle, idler bearings, water pump and radiator. Anything less and you are taking too big a risk of blowing all of your coolant out and overheating the motor. These parts are over 30 years old and were never meant to last even 10 years!
David Teitelbaum

I agree Dave. I do plan on replacing the hoses with the new silicon ones, as well as the fans, and whatnot. This car sat for 25 years in Paducah, KY, and is just now back on the road. I prolly have about 300 miles on it since it's revival, so I'm fully expecting things to start failing. The first was the 30 year old fanbelt on the 4th of July on the way home from a parade!

Eventually, as many other Deloreans have done before me, I plan on rebuilding it one part at a time :jawdrop: ! :-)

[Doogie]

Do NOT use only the clip. Use a zip-tie. Run it between the two male spade connectors of the otterstat and zip that sucker down. Have a spare one in your trunk/emergency toolkit/inside lock box behind driver's seat.

The old Otterstat wasn't bad, the seal was. I think I should prolly get another seal, and put them both in the trunk "spare-parts" box. (It's getting to be a big box! :-) )

I did put a zip tie between the terminals and around the pipe, as the Previous Owner had done. I want to get it really tight, for a positive seal.

Thanks,

Doogie

[TTait]

The cable tie does not make it seal better - it just stops the otterstat from coming out. Snug is fine - really tight could actually deform the seal and induce a leak.

[DeLorean03]

I was a bit unclear on the "keep a spare one" part of my post. I meant keep a spare zip tie JUST IN CASE the one holding the otterstat fails.

As for how tight, just snug it down - don't VICE-GRIP the thing onto the otterstat. Close the zip tie to the point you know without a shadow of a doubt that the otterstat is not in danger of falling out. Just make it snug, don't try to leave an indention of the zip tie into the side of the otterstat...

[DL4567]

Most important thing - DON'T drop the new otterstat on the garage floor. They are ridiculously fragile. Might even be worth putting some towels on the ground so that if you do drop it, it is a softer landing.

Otterstat rant:

So I replaced another one yesterday -- 3rd or 4th time in my 8 years of ownership IIRC. (Seriously, is there no better part than this piece of crap?)

Even though I had done it before, I skimmed this thread just to see if there were any new tips or tricks to follow, and what stuck with me was what Dave said above. After pulling out the old part and some swearing because coolant was running down my arm, into my shirt, pants, and underwear, I was ready to put the new one in, and sure enough..... GUESS what happened...... the new otterstat rolled off the ledge of the frame and hit the concrete floor from a height of 5 ft. Which was AWESOME, because not only was I like "NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!! Dave said not to drop it!!!!!!!!!" but then I was standing there with my thumb holding back the coolant, and both the new and old otterstats were on the floor and out of reach, since the car was on the lift, and my wife was out of earshot. (to add insult to injury, she was in the room 30 seconds before that but was now gone).

So with no other choice, and in a mentally prepared but unpracticed move like Riggs and Murtaugh jumping from the toilet to the bathtub, I let go of the pipe and bent down to grab the new otterstat and quickly put my thumb back over the hole. Then, put it where I should have in the first place, in my pocket until needed. The old gasket was a bitch to get out too, more so than previously, so even more coolant ran down my body and soaked into my clothes. Fantastic. Sigh... maybe next time I'll loosen the hose clamps and spin the pipe. But then I'm sure the hose clamps will leak afterwards. Anyway, so my questions are....

1) Did I screw up the new otterstat by dropping it, or is there only a "chance" that will break it....

2) Even though I lost some more coolant than usual, this didn't put air in the system, did it? (it never did before using this method)

3) Why is there no better part than this short-lasting thing?

4) Why am I such a retard for not putting the new otterstat in my pocket?

5) Why is coolant weird "greasy" stuff that doesn't wipe up easily from the floor or dries out of your clothes, even overnight?


Hehe, mainly I'm concerned just with #1 and 2. :)

[dmc6960]

1) Did I screw up the new otterstat by dropping it, or is there only a "chance" that will break it....

Honestly dont know, you'll just have to wait and see...


2) Even though I lost some more coolant than usual, this didn't put air in the system, did it? (it never did before using this method)

Open up your expansion tank. If you still see coolant, you should be good. If the level dropped below what you can see, all bets are off.


3) Why is there no better part than this short-lasting thing?

Where are you getting them from? I bought one from Hervey in 2001 and it was a piece of junk. Stuck closed (fans on all the time). Replaced it from with one from Grady and been problem free since (though I did almost have an overheat on my last drive this year before storage, haven't troubleshot that yet)


4) Why am I such a retard for not putting the new otterstat in my pocket?

As my friends would say, "Because you own a DeLorean!"


5) Why is coolant weird "greasy" stuff that doesn't wipe up easily from the floor or dries out of your clothes, even overnight?

Ethylene Glycol does not evaporate. The water content slowly does, but that just concentrates the glycol portion.

[David T]

If the switch was dropped hard you should not trust it and as soon as you can you should replace it. Even if it works it may now fail prematurely. I would bleed the air. Most of the time the ones you buy from the venders last a long time. Occasionally they fail. There does not seem to be a pattern. I have no answer for # 4. Mop up or use a sponge and get as much coolant up as you can. Wipe with a damp cloth. If it is too "greasy" maybe it is more than 50% anti-freeze. It is supposed to be mixed 50/50 with water. If the stuff is over 5 years old you should at least test it, if not replace it. Old anti-freeze can feel slimy. It may also have a smell.
David Teitelbaum

[SS Spoiler]

Don't let pets near it, tastes sweet to them.....POISON

[DL4567]

Honestly dont know, you'll just have to wait and see...

Open up your expansion tank. If you still see coolant, you should be good. If the level dropped below what you can see, all bets are off.

Where are you getting them from? I bought one from Hervey in 2001 and it was a piece of junk. Stuck closed (fans on all the time). Replaced it from with one from Grady and been problem free since (though I did almost have an overheat on my last drive this year before storage, haven't troubleshot that yet)

Ethylene Glycol does not evaporate. The water content slowly does, but that just concentrates the glycol portion.


If the switch was dropped hard you should not trust it and as soon as you can you should replace it. Even if it works it may now fail prematurely. I would bleed the air. Most of the time the ones you buy from the venders last a long time. Occasionally they fail. There does not seem to be a pattern. I have no answer for # 4. Mop up or use a sponge and get as much coolant up as you can. Wipe with a damp cloth. If it is too "greasy" maybe it is more than 50% anti-freeze. It is supposed to be mixed 50/50 with water. If the stuff is over 5 years old you should at least test it, if not replace it. Old anti-freeze can feel slimy. It may also have a smell.
David Teitelbaum



Thanks for the responses guys! I drove the car a couple days ago, and the new (dropped) otterstat seemed to behave like it should. Since the air temp is pretty cool this time of year, the engine temp never got high enough during my drive for the fans to come on, so when I got home I let it idle in the garage until they did. Seemed to come on maybe a little hotter than before (the needle was straight left at the 220 position) but I know these things vary a little bit and that still seems within "normal" specs.

All my otterstat replacements have come from DMCH. What exactly is inside? How do they work?

Interesting about the Ethylene Glycol, you're right, even a couple days later, the stains in the clothes still felt somewhat damp. All washed and fixed now though.

David, this coolant definitely has an unpleasant smell, and has for years already. It's at least 8 years old, and has been on my to do list for a while to replace it, but I've always been afraid of that job. I need instructions for dummies with pictures, and the only thing available is that long text-only version. I've heard people often get leaks afterwards too even if they didn't have any before the job.


Don't let pets near it, tastes sweet to them.....POISON

Funny enough when my wife came in the garage during the job, our little dog tagged along. We quickly got him out of there knowing the danger.

[ccurzio]

All my otterstat replacements have come from DMCH. What exactly is inside? How do they work?

An otter, of course. When he gets too hot, he's trained to flip a switch. Duh.

Otterstats have to be replaced because, well, otters die.

[Dangermouse]

An otter, of course. When he gets too hot, he's trained to flip a switch. Duh.



You mean when the otter gets hotter.....................................?

[ccurzio]

http://i.imgur.com/GASTQ.jpg

[DL4567]

:) you guys....

[Dangermouse]

http://i.imgur.com/GASTQ.jpg

ooohhhh, that's one hot otter. Show me some pelt, baby..........

[jgarland79]

My Otterstat is already turned with the contacts pointed up. I'm going to be replacing it soon. Should I turn it back around with the contacts pointed down?

[jawn101]

My Otterstat is already turned with the contacts pointed up. I'm going to be replacing it soon. Should I turn it back around with the contacts pointed down?

Yeah, you want to turn that section of pipe so the contacts are pointed at the ground. That way you don't risk getting an air bubble on top of it and not activating the fans when you need them.