How often to start my Delorean?

[DMC81]

The other day I put my car into storage for the remainder of the year. How often should I go and start it? I was thinking maybe every two weeks?

[Kerichbe]

I've found on mine, I need to start it at least once a week, or the battery is drained. I suspect it is the aftermarket stereo, which is always in standby mode. I'm probably going to remove the fuse when I store it.

[OverlandMan]

The other day I put my car into storage for the remainder of the year. How often should I go and start it? I was thinking maybe every two weeks?

I'm curious what others respond with as well. I would think at least once or twice a month would be beneficial.

[Rad Dad]

While I don't plan to store my car now that I live in NC, I certainly did when I lived in CO. Before my input, I'd say this is a bit like asking "what kind of oil should I use"? You'll get almost as many different answers as respondents.

I would start my DeLorean once a month. BUT, and I believe this is very important, once started, I would let it run at least until the fans had come on. It is important to let the heat dissipate any condensation that might otherwise occur. Six months in storage, started in the spring and never looked back.

By the way, save your battery from deep cycles by getting a small battery tender. Battery is always ready to fire. No need to worry about either the stereo or the doors running down the battery.

Dick Ryan, the Rad Dad
Vin 16867

[DMC81]

While I don't plan to store my car now that I live in NC, I certainly did when I lived in CO. Before my input, I'd say this is a bit like asking "what kind of oil should I use"? You'll get almost as many different answers as respondents.

I would start my DeLorean once a month. BUT, and I believe this is very important, once started, I would let it run at least until the fans had come on. It is important to let the heat dissipate any condensation that might otherwise occur. Six months in storage, started in the spring and never looked back.

By the way, save your battery from deep cycles by getting a small battery tender. Battery is always ready to fire. No need to worry about either the stereo or the doors running down the battery.

Dick Ryan, the Rad Dad
Vin 16867

Dick,

Good tip on letting the engine get to temperature, I was thinking the same thing. Unfortunately for me I have to store my car in a storage unit so I cant put a battery tender on it so for now I just take the battery out or disconnect it till the next time I start it. It still shocks me how tricky these cars can be, up until I owned one I thought I knew alot about them...lol Thanks.

[David T]

The length of storage time determines what steps you should take to store the car. If you want to keep it ready to go and it is short-term (weeks to a few months) all you really need to do is to charge the battery once a month for a day with a battery tender. It is not necessary to actually run the motor. For longer terms you should first flush the brakes and clutch, drain the fuel, change the anti-freeze, and remove the battery. Take steps to prevent small critters getting in and damaging the car. That will get you a couple of years.
David Teitelbaum

[WelmoedJ]

It's not in the car's best interest to start it regularly without taking it out for a good spin.
Letting it idle until hot is not benefitting the car.

Follow David's battery advice for short and long term storage using a modern charger/tender.

[DavidProehl]

There are a lot of different opinions on this. I think it also depends on your climate. When I lived in Minnesota I knew a lot of people that didn't start their car at all for 4-5 months over winter. The extreme cold, below zero for weeks at a time, is hard to start the engine in to begin with, and then there is the issue of condensation even on a warmed up engine. I've also heard theories around how after sitting long enough and losing oil pressure that first crank after a couple weeks isn't as lubricated as it should be, thus harder on the engine the first second it fires up. I'm not sure how much of that is truth or fiction though.

When I prepped for winter storage, I put in fresh oil, gas stabilizer (in a low tank), pulled the battery, and let it sit until spring without starting. Come spring I started and warmed up the car, drained the oil again, and replaced with fresh oil.

[jawn101]

There are a lot of different opinions on this. I think it also depends on your climate. When I lived in Minnesota I knew a lot of people that didn't start their car at all for 4-5 months over winter. The extreme cold, below zero for weeks at a time, is hard to start the engine in to begin with, and then there is the issue of condensation even on a warmed up engine. I've also heard theories around how after sitting long enough and losing oil pressure that first crank after a couple weeks isn't as lubricated as it should be, thus harder on the engine the first second it fires up. I'm not sure how much of that is truth or fiction though.

When I prepped for winter storage, I put in fresh oil, gas stabilizer (in a low tank), pulled the battery, and let it sit until spring without starting. Come spring I started and warmed up the car, drained the oil again, and replaced with fresh oil.

Now you're lucky enough to live somewhere that driving season never really ends :)

[Jonathan]

Here is some more commentary:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2015-Winter-storage-thread-post-your-opinions-and-theories-here-)&highlight=winter+storage

[dmc6960]

1: Change oil, drive down tank to nearly empty (good long drive, gets everything nice and hot and one more bit of enjoyment), park, overinflate tires to max rated pressure, remove battery.

2: Wait 5 months.

3: Start taking everything apart in April, despite having a heated garage

4: Rush everything back together in the week before DCS

5: Drive to DCS.

*Steps 3-5 not applicable to most folks.

[dmc6960]

Joking aside, I'd like to reiterate NOT to start the engine occasionally unless your taking it on a full long drive. It'll be just fine sitting for 6 months.

Also, even though its not driven, I do like to open the bonnet, doors, and louvers occasionally to keep their seals better lubed.

Also run the AC for at least a few minutes on that last time you have the engine running, freshens up the oil circulation.

In spring, turn on your AC while the engine is at idle, and leave it there for a minute. It'll be gentler on it than hitting it at highway speeds after sitting for so long.

[DavidProehl]

1: Change oil, drive down tank to nearly empty (good long drive, gets everything nice and hot and one more bit of enjoyment), park, overinflate tires to max rated pressure, remove battery.

2: Wait 5 months.

3: Start taking everything apart in April, despite having a heated garage

4: Rush everything back together in the week before DCS

5: Drive to DCS.

*Steps 3-5 not applicable to most folks.


Hilarious! But that cooled seat of yours looks like it was well worth the rush to get it ready for DCS. What are you going to have this winter to make you rush to complete the next project being that there is no DCS in 2013?

[DMCMW Dave]

.......... What are you going to have this winter to make you rush to complete the next project being that there is no DCS in 2013?

DMC Midwest new building open house? :Headspin:

[Bitsyncmaster]

I will start mine once or twice a month. I try to keep it ready for a good day in the winter for a drive when the salt has been washed off the road.

[DMC81]

I only plan to have it stored a few months, why is it bad to start it only and let it get to temperature? Keeping moisture out of the system is they key right?

[DMCMW Dave]

I try to keep it ready for a good day in the winter for a drive when the salt has been washed off the road.

That's interesting. Around here once the roads are salted they are bright white until we get a good rain in late -March. I wouldn't consider taking mine out until the spring thaw and first good rainstorm.

I know I've written it up elsewhere but I personally fall into the "fill up the tires, nearly empty gas tank, battery out, cover and park it" crowd. I don't generally touch it from December 1 to April 1. Fresh oil/coolant before storing is good. If you've been driving it a lot and are anywhere near needing an oil change, do it before you park it for the winter. It is truly amazing what will fall out of dirty oil over a long period of time.

We don't even test drive customer cars in the winter, they just go back into the warehouse when completed. We generally have a week or two of "test and tune" in the spring after the above mentioned rain.

[DMC81]

That's interesting. Around here once the roads are salted they are bright white until we get a good rain in late -March. I wouldn't consider taking mine out until the spring thaw and first good rainstorm.

I know I've written it up elsewhere but I personally fall into the "fill up the tires, nearly empty gas tank, battery out, cover and park it" crowd. I don't generally touch it from December 1 to April 1. Fresh oil/coolant before storing is good. If you've been driving it a lot and are anywhere near needing an oil change, do it before you park it for the winter. It is truly amazing what will fall out of dirty oil over a long period of time.

We don't even test drive customer cars in the winter, they just go back into the warehouse when completed. We generally have a week or two of "test and tune" in the spring after the above mentioned rain.

My car has only had 10 miles put on it in the 3 months I have owed it. It has a long list of issues so for now till after Christmas it's going to have to set.

[john 05141]

This weekend was the first frost, and the roads have been salted. So it was time to put her asleep, sad moment. We have more or less the same climate as New York, a bit less severe.

I can fit 3 cars in my garage, it is a bit tight but I can. It is always 12°C in there(+/- 55°F) even when it freezes. I do wash the car very well before winter storage, especially the alloys becasue the brake dust can really eat into the paint. I vacuum the car, and remove the foot carpets so it can all breathe better. The tank is half full which is more than I normally do, but I will not drive anymore with the salted roads now. I open both windows and put the cover on it. No mice or anything so no worries there. I also remove the spare tire, less weight on the front axel and tires.

I used to start the car every 6 weeks. I also let it run until the fans come on, turen the heater on full blast to dry the the car or the heatbox a bit. I sit in the car and sometimes gntly let her go to 2000RPM for a few seconds. I also take the cargo net
About 2 times in the winter, when the roads are certainly free of salt. I will drive it for 30 minutes, and back into the garage. About once a week, I push the car back or forward a bit to prevent hot spots.

This is the first winter I do not have any major work to the car. Just the lights in the console are out, that is about it.
Jan

[delorean91]

Dick,

Good tip on letting the engine get to temperature, I was thinking the same thing. Unfortunately for me I have to store my car in a storage unit so I cant put a battery tender on it so for now I just take the battery out or disconnect it till the next time I start it. It still shocks me how tricky these cars can be, up until I owned one I thought I knew alot about them...lol Thanks.

I think they make battery tenders that plug in to your cigarette lighter. It uses the battery to keep the battery charged. I could swear I have seen them on amazon.

I keep a car in the garage and try to drive it once a month. I keep the battery tender on it. I think it is good for extending the life of the battery as well. It is easier on the battery when it i kept at full charge. My car always starts right up.

[sdg3205]

I think they make battery tenders that plug in to your cigarette lighter. It uses the battery to keep the battery charged. I could swear I have seen them on amazon.


I don't think so! There are emergency jump/boost packs that might charge off it, but not a battery tender.

[WelmoedJ]

I think they make battery tenders that plug in to your cigarette lighter. It uses the battery to keep the battery charged.

??? And what about loss of energy due to the battery tender in the cigarette lighter???

You will end up with a battery that's drained.

[Bill Robertson's Sock Puppet #1]

He's probably thinking of solar battery chargers/tenders/maintainers, which can plug into the cigarette lighter or connect directly to the battery with alligator clips (most come with both). Solar chargers do indeed work as intended -- I left an out of service vehicle on a solar charger (connected directly to the battery) for 11 months and it still started the car on the first key turn. Diodes prevent battery drain while the sun is down. My recommendation is to stay away from the 1-3 watt models and go for 5-7 watts.

[Jonathan]

I think they make battery tenders that plug in to your cigarette lighter. It uses the battery to keep the battery charged. I could swear I have seen them on amazon.

Yes, they can be found on Amazon. They keep them in their own category right between the Perpetual Motion and Rube Goldberg machines.

[blackbird876]

they do make batter tenders that plug into the cig plug and Del Tran also makes adaptors so that their tenders will plug into the cig plug. I have several. Porsche also makes some as the batteries are hard to get to. They work fine especially for a tender.

[Victor]

Yes, they can be found on Amazon. They keep them in their own category right between the Perpetual Motion and Rube Goldberg machines.

:lol:

[pezzonovante88]

This year, I'm not going to start engine until spring I think. I've pretty well emptied the tank on my car and added a bit of stabilizer for what's left. I'll take the battery out at some point and put it on a tender at home. Hopefully the car doesn't go stale.