Headlight Switch Questions

[AugustneverEnds]

The other night I experienced trouble with the headlight button in my car. It would not stay pushed and after several jabs at it it did stay on. Today the headlights will turn on but none of the car's other lights come one i.e. side marker lights, tail lights and the binnacle light. I checked any related fuses and all test fine. My next guess is that the headlight switch is skipping the first push which turns those on and going straight to turning the headlights on. Is this possible? What else should I check for? As always thank you for any assistance.

[David T]

The headlight switch is melted inside. If you take it apart you may be able to use it for a while but the best advice is to buy a new one. SpecialT sells one with a relay kit so the switch does not have to carry the full load of the headlights and side markers.
David Teitelbaum

[Bill Robertson's Sock Puppet #1]

Headlight switch doesn't carry headlight loads. That is why they are on relays.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Headlight switch doesn't carry headlight loads. That is why they are on relays.

Correct. The relay modification is just to eliminate the "parking" light loads (about 6 amps if you have all incandescent).

[AugustneverEnds]

Thank you very much. I will place an order with SpecialT today.

[David T]

The best part of the relay mod is not just the load of the running lights. That isn't all that much. The problem is when they corrode and you get a short, that's when the current draw goes way up and you melt the innards of the switch. The switch is also all plastic inside and was never intended to last 30 years and a lot of switch cycles. Every time you turn it on you hit it 3X. Once to get the running lights, once to get the headlights, and once to turn it off.
David Teitelbaum

[skynet]

Mine got fire after getting stuck when pushed too hard. If I were you I'd definitely replace it with the improved switch before.

[Chris 16409]

See this link:

https://store.delorean.com/p-7024-headlight-switch.aspx

[thirdmanj]

Mine got fire after getting stuck when pushed too hard. If I were you I'd definitely replace it with the improved switch before.

Oh god!! That sounds scary! I'm assuming you were able to get it put out ok? Did you by chance get any pictures of it?

[LEVY]

The best part of the relay mod is not just the load of the running lights. That isn't all that much. The problem is when they corrode and you get a short, that's when the current draw goes way up and you melt the innards of the switch. The switch is also all plastic inside and was never intended to last 30 years and a lot of switch cycles. Every time you turn it on you hit it 3X. Once to get the running lights, once to get the headlights, and once to turn it off.
David Teitelbaum
;
What do you mean by this: ......The problem is when they corrode and you get a short,.........
Corrosion itself does not cause a short.

LEVY

[David T]

Most definitely it can cause a short to ground. The corrosion is conductive and when it gets wet it creates a path to ground. Instead of the electric going through the filiment it goes directly to ground which is a large current flow, not enough to blow the fuse but more than enough to melt the switch. The front marker lights are particularly prone to this. The get so corroded all you can do is just replace the socket!
David Teitelbaum

[Bill Robertson's Sock Puppet #1]

Bulb sockets *ARE* the ground. If DeLoreans had conductive metal bodies they wouldn't even have stand alone socket grounds -- sockets would ground themselves directly to the body. Corroded sockets can and will inhibit current flow to ground, but they won't create a short circuit.

[SS Spoiler]

Had similar problem with the switch not staying in or on. Took switch out and carefully disassembled it. Found melted [nylon?] Oozing into the internals, jamming it up. I "carved" the melted parts off, put it back together and it's been working ok for 6 years. Be very careful to observe how it goes together!

[Ron]

Most definitely it can cause a short to ground. The corrosion is conductive and when it gets wet it creates a path to ground. Instead of the electric going through the filiment it goes directly to ground which is a large current flow, not enough to blow the fuse but more than enough to melt the switch. The front marker lights are particularly prone to this. The get so corroded all you can do is just replace the socket!
David Teitelbaum
:smoke1:

[LEVY]

Most definitely ...............

David Teitelbaum


:smoke1:

De cual fumaste ingrato? :what_the:

[Ron]

De cual fumaste ingrato? :what_the:
Cannibalism!?!

[skynet]

Oh god!! That sounds scary! I'm assuming you were able to get it put out ok? Did you by chance get any pictures of it?

No pics, I have the improved switch installed since then. It was my bad, I shoulda disconnected the battery before trying to fix it (there was a short circuit and the fuse did not melt but the switch itself did).

[Bill Robertson's Sock Puppet #1]

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/534577_472548689457053_1551329074_n.jpg

[AugustneverEnds]

Hey all, for once a problem that was easily solved: I took the switch out and upon closer inspection it was not melted. Simply the metal guide was out of its plastic track and was skipping the first stage to turn the marker and tail lights on. The spring is a bit weak, probably contributing to the metal guide coming out of its track. I already ordered SpecialT's kit so I will just go ahead and install it. At least I won't be needing a new master switch.

@davidbrooks: Wow what a mess!! :eek1: Sorry about that