Uh oh, window motor started clicking. Now what?

[jawn101]

My windows have always been in great working order, even if the driver's side was a little slow. On my way home from work today I went to roll them up and the driver's side closed and started clicking rapidly. I know not to hold the switch after the glass is at full travel - I always let it close then tap the switch for a quick second to make sure. But it seems that despite my best efforts, my original regulator has given out on that side. The window still moves through its full range of motion, but I don't know for how much longer.

Should I just leave it closed for now? Is there a way to fix the regulator? Which is the best route to go, the DMCH regulators or the ones right from A-1? Anyone have a set they aren't using?

I'm especially sad since Clint has made it quite clear that he will be 100% unwilling to help or even think about this job for a third time :)

[Delorean Industries]

My windows have always been in great working order, even if the driver's side was a little slow. On my way home from work today I went to roll them up and the driver's side closed and started clicking rapidly. I know not to hold the switch after the glass is at full travel - I always let it close then tap the switch for a quick second to make sure. But it seems that despite my best efforts, my original regulator has given out on that side. The window still moves through its full range of motion, but I don't know for how much longer.

Should I just leave it closed for now? Is there a way to fix the regulator? Which is the best route to go, the DMCH regulators or the ones right from A-1? Anyone have a set they aren't using?

I'm especially sad since Clint has made it quite clear that he will be 100% unwilling to help or even think about this job for a third time :)

In stock ready to ship at DPI in the am!

[jawn101]

In stock ready to ship at DPI in the am!

Wow, your price is really good too. Is it a direct fit drop in replacement? Nothing to be done in the way of resurrecting the existing one, huh? Any chance (I haven't taken the door panels off since I just got home) that it's just a misalignment or something, or is it likely just finally broken?

[Delorean Industries]

Wow, your price is really good too. Is it a direct fit drop in replacement? Nothing to be done in the way of resurrecting the existing one, huh? Any chance (I haven't taken the door panels off since I just got home) that it's just a misalignment or something, or is it likely just finally broken?

When the motor starts popping it is usually not a good sign. Direct fit drop in unit. Same as A1 but we inventory a large number and sell individually. I can ship in the am.

[LEVY]

PM sent!

LEVY

[vwdmc16]

That is shitty Jon! .......Good luck!

[jawn101]

That is shitty Jon! .......Good luck!

Yeah yeah yeah... Lol

[Tillsy]

Mine where the same jawn101 - driver window was slow and the passenger clicked at top of travel. I replaced both and they're now sweet :)

[MML]

Mine where the same jawn101 - driver window was slow and the passenger clicked at top of travel. I replaced both and they're now sweet :)

Same here - my old ones were pretty badly corroded in places.

[Dangermouse]

I used some SS zip ties to temporarily repair mine 2 years ago while I ordered A1s.

Zip ties are still there and the A1 sits patiently on the shelf.

However, the same amount of work is needed to get to the regulator and install zip ties as replace the regulator.

[jawn101]

I used some SS zip ties to temporarily repair mine 2 years ago while I ordered A1s.

Zip ties are still there and the A1 sits patiently on the shelf.

However, the same amount of work is needed to get to the regulator and install zip ties as replace the regulator.

Ha. Have any pictures of that repair? Cause these regulators (good deal at DPI or not) are NOT cheap. :)

[Dangermouse]

Don't think so. I had previously tried standard plastic ones which lasted about a day before breaking, so I didn't have high hopes for their success. I'll look on my PC tomorrow though.

Like many others, my plastic guide had broken, allowing the worm drive to escape. When the window is fully closed, keeping the switch held down keeps the motor turning and pulls the worm out of the guide. Hard to explain in words, but you will see what is happening once you have the panels off

Iirc I used two or three to attach the guide to a couple of parts of the door framing to prevent it moving.

[ArthurCaverly]

It may be worth tearing into it before buying new regulators...

I had the same clicking from my passenger side window when I bought the car. When the window finally stopped working, I took the window apart, and for me it was a simple rebending of the guide tube that solved the problem. Too many passengers had left their finger on the button too long and spread the tube along the seam about half way down. A little finesse with a pair of needle nose pliers and all is in working order again.

[jawn101]

It may be worth tearing into it before buying new regulators...

I had the same clicking from my passenger side window when I bought the car. When the window finally stopped working, I took the window apart, and for me it was a simple rebending of the guide tube that solved the problem. Too many passengers had left their finger on the button too long and spread the tube along the seam about half way down. A little finesse with a pair of needle nose pliers and all is in working order again.

Aha. Did you post about that when it happened? Because I remember reading something very similar to that a while back. I will definitely examine the extent of the damage before buying anything - especially something as pricey as these motors. Sigh. I thought I was done in the doors. :)

[vwdmc16]

So did I...

[jawn101]

So did I...

Damn doors. Coolest part of the car and the most awful to work on.

[WelmoedJ]

Damn doors. Coolest part of the car and the most awful to work on.

Part of Murphy's law: "The price of nice" ;)

[DavidProehl]

These aren't as bad to replace as you might think. I helped an owner, paul_haga here on the forum, replace his drivers side regulator in a couple hours at a tech event and neither of us had any previous experience doing it. DMCH sent a nice set of step by step instructions with the regulator that included pictures and everything that made it real easy. The hardest part is that the new ones are larger than the OEM ones so you need to be careful when forcing it in not to make an outward dent in your stainless. Easier said than done. Let me know when you are doing the job and I'd be happy to help.

[jawn101]

The hardest part is that the new ones are larger than the OEM ones so you need to be careful when forcing it in not to make an outward dent in your stainless.

Now that is a scary thought. I will have to tear into the door and see what the situation is, then make a decision on what to do. If it's something simple like pinching the tube shut again or supporting the elbow then I will probably stay with what I have for the time being. But I will take you up on the offer of help for sure.

[Henrik]

My windows have always been in great working order, even if the driver's side was a little slow. On my way home from work today I went to roll them up and the driver's side closed and started clicking rapidly. I know not to hold the switch after the glass is at full travel - I always let it close then tap the switch for a quick second to make sure. But it seems that despite my best efforts, my original regulator has given out on that side. The window still moves through its full range of motion, but I don't know for how much longer.

Should I just leave it closed for now? Is there a way to fix the regulator? Which is the best route to go, the DMCH regulators or the ones right from A-1? Anyone have a set they aren't using?

I'm especially sad since Clint has made it quite clear that he will be 100% unwilling to help or even think about this job for a third time :)

I came up with a (so far) permanent fix that cost me just a few bucks:

Here is the problem: Post 1:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3384-Power-window-motor-jacked-up

Here is the solution. Post #14:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3384-Power-window-motor-jacked-up/page2

[Elvis]

As longs as it only makes that noise when the window is closed and you push the button any longer,
then leave it as it is.

Before trying to fix it and in a year or two doing it again and again and then the brass gear breaks
and you have to reopen it again and then the plastic thing breaks somewhen...

I did this, I repaired mine 3-4 times until I understood - don't be cheap, buy the new ones and
have reliable working windows forever !

It's no fun job to work on it and cutting the fingers + licking blood isn't really funny.

Those ~300 bucks are well spent.

Elvis & 6548

[SS Spoiler]

Had a similar problem with my passenger motor. It would only make what seemed like a single revolution of the motor and then jammed. Took it out and split the motor case and found the brass gear had cracked. The motor was jamming on the worm gear because the teeth couldn't mesh. Removed the cracked gear, reamed the hole to a slip fit and super glued the gear to the shaft and filled the crack. I put a hose clamp on it to draw it tight. Been working flawlessly for 21 years now...

Paul Cerny

[Rich]

It's no fun job to work on it and cutting the fingers + licking blood isn't really funny.


Absolutely right about that.

Therefore for this and any other work inside the door it's a good idea to adhere a strip of duct tape or similar material all around and folded over the inside edges of any door apertures you plan to send your fingers or hands into. Did the same thing when I needed to replace the window lift motor on a Toyota door a few years back. Worked fine there, too.

[Jacko]

Before you go inside the door make sure the window switch isn't sticking. As was posted earlier there is some finesse required to keep the cable contained in the tube. If the switch is held down too long it can jump out. I had the same problem once and ultimately I noticed the switch was sticking momentarily after I let go of it. It's worth checking if you haven't already.

[jawn101]

Before you go inside the door make sure the window switch isn't sticking. As was posted earlier there is some finesse required to keep the cable contained in the tube. If the switch is held down too long it can jump out. I had the same problem once and ultimately I noticed the switch was sticking momentarily after I let go of it. It's worth checking if you haven't already.

It only clicks if you hold the button after the window is closed. Like I said, it's my normal MO to get the window closed then tap the switch to make sure. I know the switch isn't sticking.. and prior to last week, even if you did hold the button a little too long there was no clicking. Definitely not going to get out of going into the doors again. Alas.

[Jacko]

:rock_on:d
It only clicks if you hold the button after the window is closed. Like I said, it's my normal MO to get the window closed then tap the switch to make sure. I know the switch isn't sticking.. and prior to last week, even if you did hold the button a little too long there was no clicking. Definitely not going to get out of going into the doors again. Alas.i agree, into the door you go.

Something I've always wondered about 4915 ...I can hold the switch down on the passenger window and the glass will stop and the cable isn't pushed out. Is this the 'normal' way it should behave?

[jawn101]

:rock_on:di agree, into the door you go.

Something I've always wondered about 4915 ...I can hold the switch down on the passenger window and the glass will stop and the cable isn't pushed out. Is this the 'normal' way it should behave?

Yes, that's normal. Until it breaks :)

[jawn101]

Just an update: Last week I went to use the window despite the clicking and heard a horrible noise followed by the window plummeting to the bottom of the door.

I dug into the door and discovered that the regulator elbow had snapped and the worm gear was just coiled up at the bottom of the door. I pulled the old regulator and it was rattling like the gears inside had probably also blown apart. Oh well. Let that be a lesson that the "click of death" can sometimes be more urgent than you might realize.

Placed an order with A1 and had my replacement regulators in two days. Only took about an hour to drop the new one in; it was pretty frustrating to get everything lined up properly and tightened down, but it was far from the hardest job I've done on the car.

Side note, these motors really stretch the spirit of the notion of "compatible" and "cross-reference" to the max. They definitely fit and do work correctly. But the fit is absolutely absurd. They lay kind of crooked and cockeyed and it's far from pretty. But they are way smoother and quieter than the original ones :) And the guys at A1 were a real pleasure to work with.