Replacing the CLUTCH - Slippage

[Beachdrifter]

Hi all,

So for about a year my clutch slips mainly when I try to hit the gas in 4th or 5th gear; instead I have to accelerate slowly in those gears. No issues in lower gears at slower speeds.

Not a problem since my car is just a pleasure vehicle used < 500 miles per year. But I want to get this fixed eventually.

I imagine it's the original clutch after 3 decades.

1. Has anyone had their clutch replaced at DMCFL? Any issues? I notice their website offers new or new old stock parts; I'm a little hesitant on this since I do like the upgraded alternatives (like the Valeo clutch kit, etc). Would I expect to pay for parts and labor around $1000? If not DMCFL, what other shops have you taken your Delorean to have this done to?

2. Even though I have done a lot to my car the past years as DIY, I think this may be too much for me on my own. Anyone near Central FL who has done this willing to help me out for some extra $$$?

3. Does the slippage have anything to do with adjusting the clutch pedal linkage?

Thanks for your thoughts! Appreciate it.

--Randy

[DMCMW Dave]

Hi all,

So for about a year my clutch slips mainly when I try to hit the gas in 4th or 5th gear; instead I have to accelerate slowly in those gears. No issues in lower gears at slower speeds.

Not a problem since my car is just a pleasure vehicle used < 500 miles per year. But I want to get this fixed eventually.

I imagine it's the original clutch after 3 decades.

1. Has anyone had their clutch replaced at DMCFL? Any issues? I notice their website offers new or new old stock parts; I'm a little hesitant on this since I do like the upgraded alternatives (like the Valeo clutch kit, etc). -----------

3. Does the slippage have anything to do with adjusting the clutch pedal linkage?

--Randy

DMC Shops are all using all new clutch parts. They are not NOS.

If you have an adjustable linkage, and it is set too long, you can cause clutch slippage and accelerated wear. We strongly recommend AGAINST such adjustable linkages. They were a band-aid for the plastic clutch line and with a properly upgraded and functional clutch hydraulic system are un-necessary and can cause problems.

[jawn101]

DMC Shops are all using all new clutch parts. They are not NOS.

If you have an adjustable linkage, and it is set too long, you can cause clutch slippage and accelerated wear. We strongly recommend AGAINST such adjustable linkages. They were a band-aid for the plastic clutch line and with a properly upgraded and functional clutch hydraulic system are un-necessary and can cause problems.

Dave, I can't remember... is it possible to swap out the linkage/piston while the master is still installed? I think it was. I've been thinking for a while of removing my adjustable clevis and putting the original fixed one back in. Do you just disconnect it from the pedal, remove the boot and slip it out?

[Beachdrifter]

DMC Shops are all using all new clutch parts. They are not NOS.

If you have an adjustable linkage, and it is set too long, you can cause clutch slippage and accelerated wear. We strongly recommend AGAINST such adjustable linkages. They were a band-aid for the plastic clutch line and with a properly upgraded and functional clutch hydraulic system are un-necessary and can cause problems.


Thanks Dave for the info, thats good to know. I've always had a pleasant experience ordering parts from DMC. I need to finally have the experience to take my car there one day though; after so many years still haven't been to DMCFL. On my things to do! :)

[DMCMW Dave]

Dave, I can't remember... is it possible to swap out the linkage/piston while the master is still installed? I think it was. I've been thinking for a while of removing my adjustable clevis and putting the original fixed one back in. Do you just disconnect it from the pedal, remove the boot and slip it out?

There are a several adjustable linkages out there. The ones that replace the link in the pedal linkage are easy to swap back if you can find the original part. The "good" one that Grady sells (sold?) and the one that DMC dealers used for the recall is OK to leave in place IF you set it to the factory length. (see http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-07-9.82.html ) The "bad" one that some vendors were selling in the 1980s were made of very soft stamped steel and wear quickly.

The third one out there is part of the clutch master cylinder assembly. I've never tried changing one of those to stock as the link rod is part of the assembly, so I don't know if an OEM or Repro rod (and piston?) will fit in that particular master and hold the correct dimension.

With any of these it is certainly possible to set the adjustment to the correct length, I just don't like them as it is too common to set them wrong.

I also see cars from time to time where someone took out the upper adjustment stop bolt/nut too. This is fairly obvious as the clutch pedal will be much higher off the floor than the brake pedal, and the pedal travel seems excessively long.

[Bill Robertson's Sock Puppet #1]

The pedal connecting rod is held in place by a captive washer and snap ring. Any connecting rod/captive washer combo with the same diameter washer can be swapped with another (a longer AMC connecting rod for example can be swapped for a shorter DMC rod). I have heard of some cylinders with different diameter bores, smaller IIRC. If the Girling part number cast into the side is the same, inside diameter will be the same and connecting rods can be swapped no problem. Connecting rods can be swapped with the cylinder in place, but if the piston comes out while the captive washer and snap ring are removed you will end up with a reservoir of brake fluid all over the floor.

[jawn101]

Thanks guys. Didn't mean to hijack. I have the original rod in a drawer and the cylinder is a reman OEM so it should be fine. I may just compare the adjustable rod I have to the stock one and get them the same length, then swap the rods next time I flush the clutch.

[Morpheus]

Wether you take it to DMCFL or do it yourself, be sure to replace your rear main seal @ the same time, 'while you're in there'. I haven't ever done this job, but I hear it can be a pain.